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[OFFICIAL] FX-8320/FX-8350 Vishera Owners Club - Page 5176

post #51751 of 67911
Ok so I'm back. I took everyone's advice bought a spot cool for the vrm and a fan for the bottom of socket and one for bottom of vrm the fan should be blowing down o. The vrm and down on the socket or down on vrm and away from bottom of socket? What's the best way to do this?
post #51752 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Streetdragon View Post

Damn..... ok i spend a bit cash to try the new feature with the draw cells.
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/7970002?

and the a new run firestrike..
Dont know why but my ram is only shown at 667?
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/7970143?
(old http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/7553515 )

CPU-Z and Aida64 Bench says
1123
3:14
9
11
11
30
41

hmm

3DMark doesn't read RAM speeds correctly, that's why.

They also don't read GPU clock speeds right sometimes, Intel CPU Clockspeeds right.....if you are looking at random results it's all a guessing game rolleyes.gif
 
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post #51753 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgt Bilko View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Streetdragon View Post

Damn..... ok i spend a bit cash to try the new feature with the draw cells.
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/7970002?

and the a new run firestrike..
Dont know why but my ram is only shown at 667?
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/7970143?
(old http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/7553515 )

CPU-Z and Aida64 Bench says
1123
3:14
9
11
11
30
41

hmm
3DMark doesn't read RAM speeds correctly, that's why.

They also don't read GPU clock speeds right sometimes, Intel CPU Clockspeeds right.....if you are looking at random results it's all a guessing game rolleyes.gif
This^

3DMarks reads the SPD Speeds of the RAM.

*SPD is the speed the RAM defaults to when you boot on a CMOS clear for example.

3DMark also don't read the actual GPU Speeds. It is apparent with Nvidia cards that have different clock states, like Boost. Unless you fully disable boost, or modify your Bios to go on a fixed clock when a 3D app is detected, apps like GPU-z on the main page wont read them properly.
post #51754 of 67911
Now I have most of my parts for my water cooling on the advice from you guys here except I'm going to give the 2 bay res a shot. I got an adapter down to the G1/4 for the fill port and will run tubing out through a hole in the side of the bay to fill with. All this is to get my temps down to about 5-7 degrees lower so I can possibly get my 8350 to 5GHz stable. I also bought a tee and a ball valve for draining at the res as it will be my low point. I went ahead and got some EKWB Vardar F4 fans for the radiator controlled with my fan controller.

Now, this may sound like a stupid question but is it possible to fill my system up from the UT60 radiator on top? I will be using rigid tubing with bent 90's and not elbows as I feel that would be more of a restriction.
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post #51755 of 67911
Oh, I've already made my tool less bender.thumb.gifWarning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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post #51756 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTup View Post

Now I have most of my parts for my water cooling on the advice from you guys here except I'm going to give the 2 bay res a shot. I got an adapter down to the G1/4 for the fill port and will run tubing out through a hole in the side of the bay to fill with. All this is to get my temps down to about 5-7 degrees lower so I can possibly get my 8350 to 5GHz stable. I also bought a tee and a ball valve for draining at the res as it will be my low point. I went ahead and got some EKWB Vardar F4 fans for the radiator controlled with my fan controller.

Now, this may sound like a stupid question but is it possible to fill my system up from the UT60 radiator on top? I will be using rigid tubing with bent 90's and not elbows as I feel that would be more of a restriction.

Yes. but make sure you use a long soft tubing when filling. It might back fire. Esp when you turn the pump ON.

Still would suggest doing it in the RES. thumb.gif
post #51757 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

Yes. but make sure you use a long soft tubing when filling. It might back fire. Esp when you turn the pump ON.

Still would suggest doing it in the RES. thumb.gif

I will have like a 4" tube protruding out from the res with a plug but thought about the rad and figured I'd see if you've ever done this. I wouldn't fill it in the rad with the pump on. Now you got me thinking about the time I took my radiator cap off my GTO once. I was quick back in the day.
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post #51758 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTup View Post

I will have like a 4" tube protruding out from the res with a plug but thought about the rad and figured I'd see if you've ever done this. I wouldn't fill it in the rad with the pump on. Now you got me thinking about the time I took my radiator cap off my GTO once. I was quick back in the day.

With the engine ON? Well, we learn. thumb.gif

4" is not enough dude. I would always use longer tubes when filling.
post #51759 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

With the engine ON? Well, we learn. thumb.gif

4" is not enough dude. I would always use longer tubes when filling.

Well, with the engine off it would have gotten hotter and yep we sure learn. I'm looking at 4" with an offset in the tubing to get it outside the bay side then using a funnel. Or maybe I can concoct an extension of some type to add to that only when filling. I'm trying to keep it neat as possible.
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post #51760 of 67911
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTup View Post

I was quick back in the day.

A ninja like your avatar tongue.gif
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