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[OFFICIAL] FX-8320/FX-8350 Vishera Owners Club - Page 5234

post #52331 of 68054
Quote:
Originally Posted by JourneymanMike View Post

My personal opinion, with the Sythe Slipstream 120 you get more coverage, but it doesn't push enough air - only 24 CFM..

With the Noctua (Noctua are my personal favorite) at 92mm you get less coverage but it pushes more air...

Or, I found this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185139 ...

You get 45.5 CFM...

You could do a search for more 12mm x 120mm fans in your area of the world, check CFM and static pressure specs...

Edit: Another thing, How much do you like your case? You could always cut a hole in the back panel to allow outside air in over the fan...

Actually the back panel is already damaged so I wouldn't care much about cutting a hole (just I can't do it).

I found this (before I forgot link):
http://www.deepcool.com/product/gamerstorm/2013-12/6_112.shtml

Very high CFM but it's 2,0cm. I just measured case space back of the motherboard support and it's around 2,3cm. Will the fan get air with just 3mm (without hole)? Or better to go with Scythe 1600/2000RPM? The hole is actually 12cm, so maybe the Noctua one is a bit little.
post #52332 of 68054
The D14 is a good cooler but its fans are a little weak. More powerful fans like the Thermalright TA-143 pushes much more air and will reduce temperatures. Of course that depends on getting lots of cool filtered air to those fans and then getting that hot air out of the case. I see a 12-16C difference between intake and exhaust air temperatures. Letting that hot air recirculate around inside the case is a VERY bad idea.
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post #52333 of 68054
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgt Bilko View Post

Download HWiNFO64 and run a quick stress test and take a screenshot of the sensors page and post it back here.

There is no Stress Test...
post #52334 of 68054
Quote:
Originally Posted by miklkit View Post

The D14 is a good cooler but its fans are a little weak. More powerful fans like the Thermalright TA-143 pushes much more air and will reduce temperatures. Of course that depends on getting lots of cool filtered air to those fans and then getting that hot air out of the case. I see a 12-16C difference between intake and exhaust air temperatures. Letting that hot air recirculate around inside the case is a VERY bad idea.

Are 0,3-0,4mm (behind and in front of case side) enough to let fan catch air or is it too little space? Thanks.
post #52335 of 68054
Quote:
Originally Posted by punisherITA View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgt Bilko View Post

Download HWiNFO64 and run a quick stress test and take a screenshot of the sensors page and post it back here.

There is no Stress Test...


He meant run prime 95 or IBT AVX whilst hwinfo was open , showing temps, clockspeeds and voltages smile.gif
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post #52336 of 68054
Quote:
Originally Posted by cssorkinman View Post

He meant run prime 95 or IBT AVX whilst hwinfo was open , showing temps, clockspeeds and voltages smile.gif

With Sandra it already goes to 70°C. Maybe it's related to VRM zone? They are so hot. Will a BACK fan (behind motherboard) help?

Or maybe a third fan on Noctua DH-14?

Should I invert top fan to INTAKE?
Edited by punisherITA - 8/29/15 at 11:23am
post #52337 of 68054
Does anybody know if this can be used to clean and flush a water cooled all copper system ?

I was thinking maybe of using a 1/2 teaspoon in 1 liter and then flushing out with distilled water. Then replacing the coolant with ek-ecoonant

http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/ball-canning-citric-acid/1040118192?skuId=40118192?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=BingAds%20label%3DKitchen%20Accessories&mcid=PS_bing_nonbrand_kitchenaccessories_&creative=6136888994&device=c&matchtype={MatchType}
post #52338 of 68054
That case is huge! You have lots of room for more fans. An intake fan in the top front position looks like it would work. It looks like you could mount a fan in the front top optical drive slots too.

The fans on the D14 are adjustable up and down on the heat sink. Try moving the center fan down as close to the motherboard as possible. This will let it blow some air directly on the VRM heat sink. Also try removing the In/Out panel from the back of the case. You will be surprised at how much air will come out of that space.
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post #52339 of 68054
Quote:
Originally Posted by warpuck View Post

Does anybody know if this can be used to clean and flush a water cooled all copper system ?

I was thinking maybe of using a 1/2 teaspoon in 1 liter and then flushing out with distilled water. Then replacing the coolant with ek-ecoonant

http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/ball-canning-citric-acid/1040118192?skuId=40118192?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=BingAds%20label%3DKitchen%20Accessories&mcid=PS_bing_nonbrand_kitchenaccessories_&creative=6136888994&device=c&matchtype={MatchType}
why not just use vinegar
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post #52340 of 68054
Quote:
Originally Posted by miklkit View Post

That case is huge! You have lots of room for more fans. An intake fan in the top front position looks like it would work. It looks like you could mount a fan in the front top optical drive slots too.

The fans on the D14 are adjustable up and down on the heat sink. Try moving the center fan down as close to the motherboard as possible. This will let it blow some air directly on the VRM heat sink. Also try removing the In/Out panel from the back of the case. You will be surprised at how much air will come out of that space.

Unfortunately middle cooler fan is already near motherboard amd back cooler fan is just over the beginning of VRM heatsinks (no air over VRMs btw). I find difficult even to find some room to cool them with smaller ad hoc fans. I think they would touch Noctua in some ways.

Many people tell me that top-rear fan should be outake (as it is now) but if I put it intake fresh air would go over VRMs. Moreover doesn't seem to outake well seeing they are always hyper-hot.

Thanks for advices.
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