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post #57651 of 67492
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalistoval View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by gertruude View Post

its not really high lol if he left this on auto it would show over 1.40 volts rolleyes.gif and how would it be working against him?

hes trying to figure out why he has to have a high vcore for such a low overclock

maybe its just a hungry chip

I dont want to quote anyone on this because its been a long while since it was brought up, I remember something about most cpu/nb needing an operating voltage of 1.15v for stock 2200 and normally being able to hit 2600 on 1.20v. I have my self tested this on my 8370 I sustain stability at both 2400 and 2600 at 1.20v and I am running 32gb of ram. I have recently started to experiment with aida and started upping the voltage on the core, cpu/nb, nb/ht, nb, vdda, and vddr. What I found was that too much voltage to the cpu/nb can hinder performance. Now just because this impacted my system does not mean it will effect others but at the same time it does not mean it cant. Essentially it is the same core and the same motherboard.

Cpu/nb volts is essentially IMC voltage.

with this age of chip you generally had a good clocker or more rarely a poor clocker with a stellar IMC (there has been 2-3 of these type seen, my original one, IIRC the worse fx 8 we've seen "madgoats" falls under this also, F3ERs 8350 is also a good example )

this chip is indeed a piggy, but all that is saying is how much volts it wants.

you are also confusing the chip set with the IMC(cpu/nb) not to mention i've not seen a 8350 with a 1.37v vid so yes this chip is a pig
Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

That's also a hungry chip isn't it? I lost the bravery to run my new chip at that high VCore.

But why wouldn't I stop when I am already at 5.15 at 1.512? biggrin.gif

you are Vdrooping right?

@deehoc need coffee before i dive into that, so i;ll get to that soon
Edited by FlailScHLAMP - 1/25/16 at 11:50am
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post #57652 of 67492
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlailScHLAMP View Post

you are Vdrooping right?

It's more of a false reading from the BIOS. Flashed a BIOS downloaded under Win10, Win10 OS and Voltages are back to being spot on.

Using Ultra LLC to get a Vboost of 0.012 at load.

No more erratic readings like 1.75 VCore when loaded but temps staying under 50C. tongue.gif
post #57653 of 67492
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Stilt View Post

You may be able to set it to 160ns, but it will most likely decrease the maximum MEMCLK.
I was wondering if anyone has successfully.
post #57654 of 67492
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlailScHLAMP View Post

Cpu/nb volts is essentially IMC voltage.

with this age of chip you generally had a good clocker or more rarely a poor clocker with a stellar IMC (there has been 2-3 of these type seen, my original one, IIRC the worse fx 8 we've seen "madgoats" falls under this also, F3ERs 8350 is also a good example )

this chip is indeed a piggy, but all that is saying is how much volts it wants.

you are also confusing the chip set with the IMC(cpu/nb) not to mention i've not seen a 8350 with a 1.37v vid so yes this chip is a pig
you are Vdrooping right?

@deehoc need coffee before i dive into that, so i;ll get to that soon

No worries man I'm the same way in the morning! I've edited my last post with the latest screens and in the meantime I'm going to go up the CPU voltage a tad and try for 4.8GHz again.

As to our earlier conversation regarding my chip not liking vboost I was thinking that I'll try to take my chip as far as I can with my current Digi+ settings then save that profile and start over from 4.0GHz again and see where I get with what you've all shown me so far and with the lower LLC/etc.
post #57655 of 67492
Quote:
Originally Posted by deehoC View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalistoval View Post

IMO that cpu/nb voltage is really high, I feel its working against you at this point try 1.20 - 1.225v

So I think you've got the right idea. I dropped my CPU-NB back to 1.2v and I managed to pass 4.7GHz. Currently running 4.8 but it isn't stable at 1.524v under load as I'm getting -1 results in IBT but it's still completing, it hasn't errored out yet. Posting this from my phone but ill get the screenshots up soon, ill edit this post with them.

edit:

Ok so this was my first attempt at 4.7GHz and you can see that 1.5v under load for the CPU and 1.263v for the CPU-NB was unstable.
First try at 4.7GHz (Click to show)

Then we have my fourth attempt where I've increased the voltage to 1.524v under load and the CPU-NB is still at 1.263v and looking at my CPU-NB voltage graph in the bottom left corner that it was dipping to 1.175v fairly frequently.
Fourth try at 4.7GHz (Click to show)

Now I tried dropping my CPU-NB voltage back down to 1.2v in the BIOS like Kalistoval suggested and here we have a success. 1.524v under load for the CPU and 1.20v under load for the CPU-NB with a much more consistent voltage. The only things I changed between my first attempt and my sixth passing attempt was increasing the CPU voltage and lowering the CPU-NB voltage.
Sixth try at 4.7GHz, success! (Click to show)

And heres the first attempt at 4.8GHz which semi-passed I guess according to IBT?
Fake-pass 4.8GHz (Click to show)

sixth try, you are on the verge of instability, Look how inconsistent your G flops are.

4.8 should not have been attempted. -result means unstable.

I would also recommend returning you memory to stock timings and speeds while you are working on this. want to make sure this isn't part of the issue.
Edited by FlailScHLAMP - 1/25/16 at 12:43pm
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post #57656 of 67492
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlailScHLAMP View Post

sixth try, you are on the verge of instability, Look how inconsistent your G flops are.

4.8 should not have been attempted. -result means unstable.

I would also recommend returning you memory to stock timings and speeds while you are working on this. want to make sure this isn't part of the issue.

I'll set the mem to 1600 and see how things go. Anything else you'd recommend for the time being?


edit: I set the RAM to 1600 with stock timings and this is the result I got. I thought maybe my CPU-NB dropped to 1.175v might be the issue but it seems no matter the LLC setting (Auto, Normal, High or Extreme) along with increasing the voltage doesn't make a difference..it still drops to 1.175v eventually for a moment and rises back up. Perhaps I'm overthinking that part but I guess I'll chuck a few more volts to the CPU core and see what happens in the mean time.
4.8GHz with stock RAM speed/timing (Click to show)

Edited by deehoC - 1/25/16 at 1:01pm
post #57657 of 67492
Quote:
Originally Posted by deehoC View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlailScHLAMP View Post

sixth try, you are on the verge of instability, Look how inconsistent your G flops are.

4.8 should not have been attempted. -result means unstable.

I would also recommend returning you memory to stock timings and speeds while you are working on this. want to make sure this isn't part of the issue.

I'll set the mem to 1600 and see how things go. Anything else you'd recommend for the time being?

your graphs are doing you little to no good. they need to be set more granularly or just disabled right now they are just eating cycles and memory

Vcore graph range should be 1.35v->1.6v, Cpu/nb range should be 1.18v->1.5v

core temp graph IMHO is useless, this sensor is inaccurate at idle and light loads so ya. just keep an eye on the temp in the hw window.

also if your HWinfo is only polling ever 2000ms (as it is set by default) there isn't much point in tracking anything but utilization in this fashion.

My suggestion right now is to save your profile and start fresh. like i suggested to DeadlyG33K get yourself a "stock" base line profile to fall back on that you know is stable.

Its fairly simple, I choose the base clock, and disable turbo, and power savings features to nail down voltages. then i personally dont use power saving not worth the hassle for me for the hour or two i'm not actually working on my computer when it is on. (this is totally up to you)

I tend to prefer High LLC at most for this profile, or all my profiles in general. Both Chips i've owned an a fair amount that i've helped out have responded better to a little bit of vdroop than a little bit of vboost.

i'm not sure if your cooler will have the legs to handle this chip @ voltwall. so 4.8 might be out of the question without a custom loop. but again we shall see shall we?

give the date of purchase this could be a 1240-1252 batch chip. best I can see is 1302, and that is only if he bought his chip the day after the shipment came in. this chip is a blast from the past so to speak. or maybe more accurately a blast furnace from the past.

my opinion let the droop work in your favour and don't try to boost anything you don't have too. this will grant you a little headroom, but much i don't know. my old 8350 had a vid of 1.34v and topped out at 4.7, I could do 4.8 in the winter under silly voltage, but i still needed close to 1.52v(or was it 1.54v, i cant remember) under load for 4.7.

your chip will likely need more voltage. as it has a leakier VID by 0.03 (two bumps in voltage in bios essentially, however this variant will grow the higher you clock your chip)

F3ERs would be the man to talk to about this set up, Same board, similar piggish chip. he has the cooling to manage much higher clock on a piggy chip, and the knowledge to get it there
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post #57658 of 67492
Quote:
Originally Posted by mus1mus View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by FlailScHLAMP View Post

you are Vdrooping right?

It's more of a false reading from the BIOS. Flashed a BIOS downloaded under Win10, Win10 OS and Voltages are back to being spot on.

Using Ultra LLC to get a Vboost of 0.012 at load.

No more erratic readings like 1.75 VCore when loaded but temps staying under 50C. tongue.gif

I call shenanigans...

very high limited to 100-110 current v boosts more than this.

something isn't right with your rig.. in a very weird way
Edited by FlailScHLAMP - 1/25/16 at 1:21pm
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post #57659 of 67492
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlailScHLAMP View Post

your graphs are doing you little to no good. they need to be set more granularly or just disabled right now they are just eating cycles and memory

Vcore graph range should be 1.35v->1.6v, Cpu/nb range should be 1.18v->1.5v

core temp graph IMHO is useless, this sensor is inaccurate at idle and light loads so ya. just keep an eye on the temp in the hw window.

also if your HWinfo is only polling ever 2000ms (as it is set by default) there isn't much point in tracking anything but utilization in this fashion.

My suggestion right now is to save your profile and start fresh. like i suggested to DeadlyG33K get yourself a "stock" base line profile to fall back on that you know is stable.

Its fairly simple, I choose the base clock, and disable turbo, and power savings features to nail down voltages. then i personally dont use power saving not worth the hassle for me for the hour or two i'm not actually working on my computer when it is on. (this is totally up to you)

I tend to prefer High LLC at most for this profile, or all my profiles in general. Both Chips i've owned an a fair amount that i've helped out have responded better to a little bit of vdroop than a little bit of vboost.

i'm not sure if your cooler will have the legs to handle this chip @ voltwall. so 4.8 might be out of the question without a custom loop. but again we shall see shall we?

give the date of purchase this could be a 1240-1252 batch chip. best I can see is 1302, and that is only if he bought his chip the day after the shipment came in. this chip is a blast from the past so to speak. or maybe more accurately a blast furnace from the past.

my opinion let the droop work in your favour and don't try to boost anything you don't have too. this will grant you a little headroom, but much i don't know. my old 8350 had a vid of 1.34v and topped out at 4.7, I could do 4.8 in the winter under silly voltage, but i still needed close to 1.52v(or was it 1.54v, i cant remember) under load for 4.7.

your chip will likely need more voltage. as it has a leakier VID by 0.03 (two bumps in voltage in bios essentially, however this variant will grow the higher you clock your chip)

F3ERs would be the man to talk to about this set up, Same board, similar piggish chip. he has the cooling to manage much higher clock on a piggy chip, and the knowledge to get it there

I'll start from scratch and post results then from there I'll mess with the Digi+ settings you recommended the other day and see how far I can take it. I've just adjusted the min/max values for the CPU and CPU-NB voltage graphs but I'm curious what you would recommend to set the polling value to as it is indeed the default 2000 right now.

Should I leave CPU-NB, VDDA and NB/NB HT voltages alone once I reset to stock or input the values mus recommended for me earlier (1.25v CPU-NB, 1.25v NB, 1.25v NB HT and 2.6v VDDA)

edit: Heres my temps/voltages after setting it to Optimized defaults and disabling power savings/turbo.



Also curious what I should set CPU Voltage Frequency to under the Digi+ tab...I've read some of you recommend 200 while others said 400.
Edited by deehoC - 1/25/16 at 2:04pm
post #57660 of 67492
VDDA is pointless for the over-clock you are trying. your multi isn't high enough.

2.5-2.55 should be fine.

just for giggles set the cpu-nb, and NB voltages to Auto, HT as well. take note of them.

WARNING: to do this right you will spend the majority of the rest of the day stress testing and tweaking.

Auto will likely overvolt those components slightly.. all you have to do it take note of the voltage they land at and once you've got your Vcore locked down for your stock profile ("stock" profile is the first thing I do when I set up a new computer)

you can start to repeat the same process with those Auto voltages, manual set them to similarly what auto would set and then slowly work down notch at a time one voltage per reset/stress cycle

take it slow and when you notice score degradations or increased variance of scores, you have reduced the voltage too far add a notch or two back on and move to the next one.

if you do this systematically it makes it a little easier to manage getting where you want to go.

order of operation: Chip -> mobo -> GPU if you intend on checking that if its overclocked -> then memory.

this way if you happen to need to do some BUS changes to make your memory work, you've got a better idea of how these settings work with each other and how to change them individually.
this doesn't mean you will automatically know what to do this simply means that when you get to a more advance method of over clocking should you need it wouldn't be so alien and daunting initially.
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