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post #6241 of 67373
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red1776 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

Temps jump to mid-70's before crashing. I could probably keep the OC if I kept the temps down doing anything but IBT.

Also, I turned off my Rad fans while my computer was idle for a few mins, temps didn't change till there was some reasonable usage. No fear of fans dying in the night for me. biggrin.gif

...but ...but... aren't you worried about not having a second pump??
ph34r-smiley.gifdevil.giftongue.gifwave2.gif

There is a disproportional jump then from ?c to 70c? or 70c is merely the point when it locks up?
I am curious because I have not tried shutting the fans off on this one yet and running passive.

The sensor updates every 2 seconds, so difficult to tell, but since it makes it to pass 3 I'm going to say it just gets that hot and makes it unstable. We all know AMD doesn't like high temps, and it did the same thing IBT on my H100 at 5Ghz, which doesn't happen anymore.

Complete passive isn't really acceptable once doing anything that needs the CPU, but I can run full passive at 5Ghz and watch a youtube video or something. Not that I ever have a reason to, these fans are silent compared to my Corsair ones. (Which were comparable to my 6970s with ref coolers at 65%, I'm sure that gives you a noise level, but man did they move air. Delta Jr, seriously)
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post #6242 of 67373
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

The sensor updates every 2 seconds, so difficult to tell, but since it makes it to pass 3 I'm going to say it just gets that hot and makes it unstable. We all know AMD doesn't like high temps, and it did the same thing IBT on my H100 at 5Ghz, which doesn't happen anymore.
Complete passive isn't really acceptable once doing anything that needs the CPU, but I can run full passive at 5Ghz and watch a youtube video or something. Not that I ever have a reason to, these fans are silent compared to my Corsair ones. (Which were comparable to my 6970s with ref coolers at 65%, I'm sure that gives you a noise level, but man did they move air. Delta Jr, seriously)

cant wait to hear your final feeling on the change from H100 to custom loop.....i must tell that i was quite disapointed to admitt that the H100 is a nice performer, lol, yeah it mean i was expecting more spectacular changes, though under hard load it s more visible....hopefully wink.gif

and lol @ your comment on the corsair fans ....65% of a 6970...yeah this give a clear idea (i used em 1 weeks before my wife asked to me where the hell was coming this noise from ...i told her that they was mooving air but then she asked to me why i choosed to pick a WC if it was to moove more air....i changed em...) tongue.gif
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post #6243 of 67373
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleBlitz View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

The sensor updates every 2 seconds, so difficult to tell, but since it makes it to pass 3 I'm going to say it just gets that hot and makes it unstable. We all know AMD doesn't like high temps, and it did the same thing IBT on my H100 at 5Ghz, which doesn't happen anymore.
Complete passive isn't really acceptable once doing anything that needs the CPU, but I can run full passive at 5Ghz and watch a youtube video or something. Not that I ever have a reason to, these fans are silent compared to my Corsair ones. (Which were comparable to my 6970s with ref coolers at 65%, I'm sure that gives you a noise level, but man did they move air. Delta Jr, seriously)

cant wait to hear your final feeling on the change from H100 to custom loop.....i must tell that i was quite disapointed to admitt that the H100 is a nice performer, lol, yeah it mean i was expecting more spectacular changes, though under hard load it s more visible....hopefully wink.gif

and lol @ your comment on the corsair fans ....65% of a 6970...yeah this give a clear idea (i used em 1 weeks before my wife asked to me where the hell was coming this noise from ...i told her that they was mooving air but then she asked to me why i choosed to pick a WC if it was to moove more air....i changed em...) tongue.gif

I like it. I got what I wanted, which was 5.0 no worries. Even IBT can't make me hit 60C at 5.0 (with 32GB of 1600, the IMC is a pretty big factor too), which means anything else I want to do likely won't push me past 50C.

I can probably have 5.2Ghz for normal usage (or lightly threaded games, of which I have many) if I really want it, even with inside temps. The fact I was capable of benching it before gives me hope for that down the road, which is already insane considering the chip and board. I figure if I can get some better fans on this thing, I'll have a field day with it.

About the XSPC kit in general...

How the block mounts, sucks. No excuses here. The block itself is separated from the section that holds it to the board (which makes sense, but they do not screw together like the H-series), the section does not rest on screws pre-installed on the board, it screws in manually. Directly into the stock AMD backplate no less, meaning you have to hold that in position while you mount it. It's a 3-hand job. Thankfully, due to a flaw in the HAF 932's design, the back cutout is not quite in the correct position, and due to that the backplate could not fall out.

The Rad is nice and heavy. However, like they only provide 3 fans, they also only include enough screws to mount those 3 fans. The book does say what thread size they are though, so you can buy some on your own.

All screws are plain silver. No gloss black like the H-series, which was annoying, since my case follows a Black/Red theme, and honestly if the rest of the things are going to be black, why shouldn't the screws be.

The Res was easy to work with. I wish there was a "lock" of some kind to keep the LED in place, and I wish it would play nice with the tool-less 5.25 bay locks, but otherwise no problems.

The stock tubing it comes with, clear, is a very strong rubber. I did not use that however, I got black tubing in it's place. This was much "weaker" tubing, but it also bends without crimping easier, and fit on the fittings with less trouble. Both cut very cleanly with a Miter Box and large serrated knife combo.

Despite the kit saying it comes with Barb fittings and clamps, it does not. While it was a gift, there is no option on FrozenCPU to chose what fittings you get instead, and what came in the box were very nice looking glossy black compression fittings. (Yes, I already have dust, go away)

All in all, it was packed up nicely, and I'm happy with it.
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post #6244 of 67373
Hey Kyad, you should be able to run over 1.6v with RX 360. Turn down CPUNB voltage and HT voltage and set them to stock or just a multi over. For some reason, my temps went crazy when I had everything highly overclocked and overvolted, but when I dropped back on the other things, high vcore was fine. I run 1.6v now under load with LLC and I am just in the mid to lower 50s with about 60f ambient temps. It feels to me like when you raise vcore and you have the rest of the chip overclocked (CPUNB, HT), temps just go ******* crazy at 1.6v+. If you can lower everything else it seemed ok.

I don't know how much more I want to push it though. It can go further but it takes a lot more volts to get a little performance. I did manage 8.89 in Cinebench at 5.18ghz, but IBT was instant crash. I might build a super cheap $450 8350 as a render farm node and see which chip is the better overclocker, and make that my *****.
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post #6245 of 67373
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdlvx View Post

Hey Kyad, you should be able to run over 1.6v with RX 360. Turn down CPUNB voltage and HT voltage and set them to stock or just a multi over. For some reason, my temps went crazy when I had everything highly overclocked and overvolted, but when I dropped back on the other things, high vcore was fine. I run 1.6v now under load with LLC and I am just in the mid to lower 50s with about 60f ambient temps. It feels to me like when you raise vcore and you have the rest of the chip overclocked (CPUNB, HT), temps just go ******* crazy at 1.6v+. If you can lower everything else it seemed ok.

I don't know how much more I want to push it though. It can go further but it takes a lot more volts to get a little performance. I did manage 8.89 in Cinebench at 5.18ghz, but IBT was instant crash. I might build a super cheap $450 8350 as a render farm node and see which chip is the better overclocker, and make that my *****.

That is with all other voltages at stock. Keep in mind the chip difference as well. As good as my 8320 may be for an 8320, it's still an 8320.
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post #6246 of 67373
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

That is with all other voltages at stock. Keep in mind the chip difference as well. As good as my 8320 may be for an 8320, it's still an 8320.

The difference between the CPUs (even same model) is very surprising.

Just between the two 8350's that I've used running at the same settings @ 4.5Ghz
CPU 1 - (Stock VID 1.332v) IBT @ 1.356v max temps 52 Celsius Core Temp
CPU 2 - (Stock VID 1.284v) IBT @ 1.356 max temps 70 Celsius Core Temp

But.... CPU 2 can run 4.5Ghz IBT @ 1.338 max temps of 59 Celsius Core Temp. So I think it could OC much better with better cooling.

Another thing I noticed between the two CPUs, was that my 2nd one, with a later Time Stamp of 1244 has a bit thicker IHS (taller). I didn't measure the thickness of my first CPU before it went RMA'd, but the difference is fairly obvious.
Edited by ComputerRestore - 12/28/12 at 11:55am
post #6247 of 67373
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaddieMayne View Post

This has inspired me to do the same with my watercooling loop using the below items i will post results here but it may take a few weeks, i will be drilling through an external wall in my office which faces my back graden that wall has a 5 ft overhanging roof like a porch but is open on all sides to the air so its ideal for it, i will mount the rad using 2 large wall brackets.
12V Phobya DC12-400 Water Pump (DD-CPX Pro / EK-DCP 4.0)
EK Water Blocks EK-CoolStream RAD XTC 420
Phobya Radiator Grill Triple (420) - Hole Series - Black
Phobya G-Silent 14 1400rpm Black Silent Edition ( 140x140x25mm )
Phobya Y-Cable 3Pin Molex to 3x 3Pin Molex 60cm - Black
8
Phobya extension 3Pin Molex extra-long 60cm - black
Koolance Quick Release Connector 13mm Barbed Fitting (1/2) High Flow - VL3
Koolance Quick Release Connector 13mm (1/2) Barb (High Flow) - VL3N
Masterkleer Hose Pack PVC 19/13mm (1/2ID) Clear 3.3m

Sounds like a plan Paddie thumb.gif I'm not sure how cold it gets there, but if it is really cold something to watch for is condensation on the tubing. With mine in the garage, I just open/close the garage door to regulate the temp, so even if it's -20C outside it isn't an issue (and it gets that cold occasionally in the middle of winter). I'd really like to add the same quick disconnects and a second D5 vario to my loop when I add the rad again, but it isn't in the budget right now.

@CK, really nice looking build. You should find someone with a ud7 and steal a black crossfire bridge from them tongue.gif

@red, just following up. I pulled my 4X4GB G.Skill 1866 C9, and swapped in my 2X4GB G.Skill 1600 C7. With just two sticks, it does indeed support the 1866 multi. I'm actually getting the C7's a little faster than they were in my CIVF/1090T build, at slightly tighter timings. Maybe better mem controller? Stable at 1866 8-9-8 1T, whereas I could only manage 1840 8-10-8 with them before, and there may be more left in them. I'll sell the 4X4GB kit with the 1090T system, and hold out for a nicer 2X8GB kit later. Maybe the TridentX eventually, since I couldn't find the other kit you mentioned in 2X8GB, and my 2X4gb is about the same speed.

So, using the 1866 multi helped, but only slightly. With 200 ref rather than 234, I got 4.9 OCCT stable at 1.488 whereas I couldn't before, but I couldn't stabilize Prime at that speed, or OCCT at 5GHZ, going as high as 1.55v. Looks like my sweet spot is 4.8@1.488. At least without cheating (using cold air at the rad in the garage) or cranking more volts to it.
Edited by GrinderCAN - 12/28/12 at 12:47pm
post #6248 of 67373
Guys i have a bit of a problem with OCing the 8350..
My Prolimatech Panther has just arrived, temps are at 50C, and the system shuts down after 1-2 minutes of OCCT, produces errors in P95, etc.

What voltages and multipliers should i increase?

CPU NB VID is set to 1.32V, CPU V = 1.47 (varies between 1.45-1.49 under load), cpu multi 23, ram 1333, host clock 200, pcie 100.. HT is 2600.

If i reset the bios, and just increase the multiplier to 22.5, then the PC runs well under games, and only makes errors rarely in OCCT.

I'm sure i'm missing a little bit of knowledge, but idk what.

Will tell you any more details, just ask smile.gif Please, help. Ty.
post #6249 of 67373
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

I like it. I got what I wanted, which was 5.0 no worries. Even IBT can't make me hit 60C at 5.0 (with 32GB of 1600, the IMC is a pretty big factor too), which means anything else I want to do likely won't push me past 50C.
I can probably have 5.2Ghz for normal usage (or lightly threaded games, of which I have many) if I really want it, even with inside temps. The fact I was capable of benching it before gives me hope for that down the road, which is already insane considering the chip and board. I figure if I can get some better fans on this thing, I'll have a field day with it.
...

good job & thx for sharing, same kind of results here with my 8350...i think i can perhaps grab some °c by replacing my EK supreme WB with a raystorm...thumb.gif
Edited by UncleBlitz - 12/28/12 at 12:54pm
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post #6250 of 67373
Quote:
Originally Posted by KyadCK View Post

Different batch numbers overclock differently, some batches are good, some are bad.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1331219/fx-83xx-data-collection-thread

Kyad has anybody actually studied if there is any significant performance differences in chips within the same batch?
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