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[Official] NZXT Phantom 820 Case Club - Page 148

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post #1471 of 1963
Quote:
Originally Posted by kayan View Post

Hey, all, so I ended up buying (as my 3rd case to try this time) a Phantom 630. The build quality seems good, the whole thing is sturdy, and it is HUGE (coming from a HAF XB and Corsair 540). I just have one problem (actually several, but they are all the same issue) the screws for my rads don't work and NZXT fibbed to me. frown.gif

I emailed support and inquired about a 280mm rad fitting up top and in the front. Well, they responded and said that both would fit, yet it only fits up top. The 30mm rad up top fits great, with lots of room inside the case for the 8pin CPU. The front doesn't fit a 280mm (Alphacool ST30), it's too long. I decided that I'd deal and just install it on the bottom, well, yeah, good idea, right? Wrong. The metal at the bottom of the case is contoured so that my rad's screws don't stick all the way through the fan and rad plus bottom of the case....so, next option, install the fans and rad inside the case? Yeah, no go there either, the screws just aren't long enough!

Next option, install my 240mm rad (XSPC AX240)? This doesn't work either, the screws (diff thread and length) don't fit either mounting option!

This is my first custom loop, and I've had nothing but issues with the whole thing. I've been without a desktop for almost a month, and it's starting to piss me off.

Does anyone have any suggestions for the screw issue?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by kayan View Post

Hey, all, so I ended up buying (as my 3rd case to try this time) a Phantom 630. The build quality seems good, the whole thing is sturdy, and it is HUGE (coming from a HAF XB and Corsair 540). I just have one problem (actually several, but they are all the same issue) the screws for my rads don't work and NZXT fibbed to me. frown.gif

I emailed support and inquired about a 280mm rad fitting up top and in the front. Well, they responded and said that both would fit, yet it only fits up top. The 30mm rad up top fits great, with lots of room inside the case for the 8pin CPU. The front doesn't fit a 280mm (Alphacool ST30), it's too long. I decided that I'd deal and just install it on the bottom, well, yeah, good idea, right? Wrong. The metal at the bottom of the case is contoured so that my rad's screws don't stick all the way through the fan and rad plus bottom of the case....so, next option, install the fans and rad inside the case? Yeah, no go there either, the screws just aren't long enough!

Next option, install my 240mm rad (XSPC AX240)? This doesn't work either, the screws (diff thread and length) don't fit either mounting option!

This is my first custom loop, and I've had nothing but issues with the whole thing. I've been without a desktop for almost a month, and it's starting to piss me off.

Does anyone have any suggestions for the screw issue?
I dont know how much the 630 differs from the 820 but I know that my 820 fits my 280 rad at the bottom like a charm. Have not tried anything for the front as both my rads are 360 up top and 280 down low. And I don't have any need for more rad at the moment. Maybe a bad case? RMA? Wait for @IT Diva to reply though. I am sure she can give you a hand as she is pulling apart a pai of 630's for her Mix n' Match build.

A page or so back, I told you you'd be good with a 280 on top and on the bottom when you were asking about the 820.

I did not say you'd be good with it in front.

Now you have the smaller 630, and didn't ask here where there are folks that have actually done builds in these cases and can tell you from experience.

Why anyone assumes that support for any company knows more than the customer base, and blindly accepts it without further confirmation is beyond me. . . . .

But at least you know better now.

Why you even expected the 280 to fit in front of the 630 when I suggested it wouldn't even fit the front of the 820, without even asking here, puzzles me as well.

But anyway, you're now trying to put the 280 in the bottom of your 630, and it is not a match made in heaven.


Here's a post from my 630's buildlog that's relevant.

You need to do some homework sometimes to dig up all the little gotcha's:

Another little update


As those following the thread know, one of the builds will have a pair of Black Ice GT-X rads, 360 up top and 280 below, while the other build gets an Alphacool XT45 360 up top and a Monsta 240 below, all with push - pull fan setups.

Both top rads need extensive mods to install, and the GT-X 360 has been pictured in a mock up install and it fits.

Waiting for the XT45 to arrive, as well as the mounting plates and hardware from McMaster Carr.

The Monsta 240 is a simple drop in install.

Now the issue is using a 280 in the 630 case as a lower rad.

While the 810 and 820 use the same lower chassis panel, that's very nicely optimized for a 280, the 630 has its own lower chassis panel, and it's not so 280 friendly at all, comparatively speaking.


To give everyone an idea of the differences, here's the lower chassis panel of the 810 / 820:



It almost screams for a 280, and to make it look nice with a 240, it really needs an adapter plate:






Now here's the 630 lower chassis panel:





Just from looking under the rad, it's easy to see just how obstructed the airflow for a 280 is:





As you can see, not so 280 friendly as the 810 / 820, so out come the power tools to rectify that:






And with the slide in filter in place:






Hope you all like how they are coming along,

Darlene

You'll need to put some washers under the heads with the 35mm screws and you'll have that issue solved.

You may want to take some q-tips with the heads cut off to use to measure how long you need the screw lengths to be.

It's a pretty primitive method, but it works.


Darlene
post #1472 of 1963
Quote:
Originally Posted by kayan View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair View Post

Did you look in your rad to confirm that you had hit the fins? I would make sure to make sure you didn't puncture the rad. Where do you REALLY wanna put the rad. Cause maybe just use a dremel tool or similar and just grind down the screws a few mm?

Ideally I'd like to mount the rad up front, but that's not happening without some modding. I haven't looked yet, as I'm about to go to work, but I will. I wasn't expecting the rad to fit up front, until NZXT support told me that it would. Maybe I should just go to 120mm sizes as they offer greater support in cases...?

The 30mm screws work fine up top, but are too short for the bottom; whereas, the 35mm screws are long enough, but I think just too long by a little bit. There is no size in between.

Edit: I just took the fans off the rad. I can see where the screw hit the rad, but I don't think I punctured it. I definitely scratched off the paint, but am now worried that if I put water in it, that it will leak. Wooo, go me.

Kayan:

Yeah, setting up your first custom loop has a bit of a learning curve. As for the screw that nicked a radiator fin, it's VERY easy to test to see if it punctured. In fact, when the same thing happened to me during part of my initial install, I found out I should probably flush the radiators to clean out all the flux and other assorted bits from manufacturing anyway, as they can flow through your loop and clog up some of your tighter components, such as your CPU block. Here's a post on Martin's Liquid Lab that covers one easy way, and you can use that method to also fill your rad and check it for leaks where you nicked it. (Mine was punctured from overtightening, which then impinged on the fin and broke through...had to get a whole new radiator. *sigh* Anyone want a good deal on a partially damaged UT60 240? redface.gif ) Just make sure if you use the faucet method that you don't crank up the water flow too high...the pressure in most houses can easily blow through some of these thin radiator walls if you open 'er up too much.

There's also a video link in that MLL post that shows a guy called WestCoastMods who has a slightly fancier setup using a pond pump and a cheap whole house water filter that I liked even better.

Good luck!
post #1473 of 1963
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post


A page or so back, I told you you'd be good with a 280 on top and on the bottom when you were asking about the 820.

I did not say you'd be good with it in front.

Now you have the smaller 630, and didn't ask here where there are folks that have actually done builds in these cases and can tell you from experience.

Why anyone assumes that support for any company knows more than the customer base, and blindly accepts it without further confirmation is beyond me. . . . .

But at least you know better now.

Why you even expected the 280 to fit in front of the 630 when I suggested it wouldn't even fit the front of the 820, without even asking here, puzzles me as well.

But anyway, you're now trying to put the 280 in the bottom of your 630, and it is not a match made in heaven.


You'll need to put some washers under the heads with the 35mm screws and you'll have that issue solved.

You may want to take some q-tips with the heads cut off to use to measure how long you need the screw lengths to be.

It's a pretty primitive method, but it works.


Darlene

Darlene, thanks for your help thus far, even though parts of it were somewhat aggressive, I'm new to this whole modding thing. I've never used any case stuff that wasn't stock, so no, I had no idea that a case manufacturer wouldn't know about their own products. All of this stuff is hard for me as well, I can't cut stuff out (as I don't own any dremels or any tools) nor am I very handy.

The Q-tip thing, really great tip (see what I did there?)! I never would have thought of that.

So, I think I'm going to keep the P630 (instead of sending it back), and I don't like how big the P820 is, and also that the drive cages aren't modular like in the 630? What rads would you put in, that don't require cutting? I'm obviously going to have to get another rad (since I poked through my other 280, whoops). I prefer slimmer rads, and just run single fans on them.

I see what you mean about the bottom tray differences between the 630 and 820, and yeah, the bottom of the 630 doesn't look 140mm friendly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotMandatory View Post

Kayan:

Yeah, setting up your first custom loop has a bit of a learning curve. As for the screw that nicked a radiator fin, it's VERY easy to test to see if it punctured. In fact, when the same thing happened to me during part of my initial install, I found out I should probably flush the radiators to clean out all the flux and other assorted bits from manufacturing anyway, as they can flow through your loop and clog up some of your tighter components, such as your CPU block. Here's a post on Martin's Liquid Lab that covers one easy way, and you can use that method to also fill your rad and check it for leaks where you nicked it. (Mine was punctured from overtightening, which then impinged on the fin and broke through...had to get a whole new radiator. *sigh* Anyone want a good deal on a partially damaged UT60 240? redface.gif ) Just make sure if you use the faucet method that you don't crank up the water flow too high...the pressure in most houses can easily blow through some of these thin radiator walls if you open 'er up too much.

There's also a video link in that MLL post that shows a guy called WestCoastMods who has a slightly fancier setup using a pond pump and a cheap whole house water filter that I liked even better.

Good luck!

Thanks for the info NotMandatory, that's a good video link and first URL. Very helpful.
    
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post #1474 of 1963
Apologies if it seemed overly aggressive, . . . . . But it did make it less easy to dismiss.

I've probably hacked more into the phantom series cases than most, and in the build logs, I've not been amiss at taking NZXT to task for things I think could and should have been done better.

For the 630, I'd really recommend going with a 60mm thick 240 in P-P on the bottom.

There's plenty of room.

The one I have with the 80mm Monsta just looks too shoeboxy, and in time will get changed

I'm not sure even a 360 length Monsta can really be aesthetically appealing. . . . 420 and up, and it's a different ball game.


The interchangeability of the 630 drive cages is nice.

The 820 should have kept the HDD cage sliders from the 810, which was what the 630 was patterned from, but they didn't, so you can't mix 'n match the HDD cages in the 820 unless you get a set of the 810 style plastic sliders.


Custom loops almost always require some level of DIY skills and tool use, especially if you're not using a bay res with pump setup.

Best advice is to spend lots of time researching the build logs and asking questions.

There really is a leaning curve for watercooling setup, and this forum is a great place to find folks that have been there and have experience with what does, and doesn't work well together.


Darlene
post #1475 of 1963
Darlene,

thanks for getting back to me again biggrin.gif

I'm concerned with cooling capabilities as I was suggested to get no less than 600mm of rad for my hardware +1 extra gpu when funds permit.

I have a AMD FX9370 and a Radeon r9-290x. I figured through much research that a 560mm of rad would be ok. Would 520 still be enough? Or would you recommend another 240 in front?

If so, what sizes would be best if I have to use both?
    
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post #1476 of 1963
Quote:
Originally Posted by kayan View Post

Darlene,

thanks for getting back to me again biggrin.gif

I'm concerned with cooling capabilities as I was suggested to get no less than 600mm of rad for my hardware +1 extra gpu when funds permit.

I have a AMD FX9370 and a Radeon r9-290x. I figured through much research that a 560mm of rad would be ok. Would 520 still be enough? Or would you recommend another 240 in front?

If so, what sizes would be best if I have to use both?

Kayan:

I don't want to speak for Darlene, but there are a number of variables missing with regard to the total cooling capacity that you'll need. And even with those additional variables, total length of radiators would only be one aspect of your system's cooling capability.

For example, a 240mm long x 140mm wide radiator is still missing a key component: height (or depth). Obviously a 30mm high x 240mm long x 140mm wide offers less cooling than the same 240x140 length and width rad when it is 60mm high.

Furthermore, even if all of the radiator dimensions are known, the amount of cooling one particular rad can provide will then vary dramatically by how fast the fans are running. Are you looking to water cool because you want to run the fans at minimum and have it be whisper quiet, even when gaming? That's a very different requirement than being willing to have the fans running full blast because noise isn't one of your concerns.

In addition, you gain a fairly significant % of additional cooling capacity with the same radiator based upon whether you have fans on just one side of the rad (push or pull), versus doubling up and putting fans on both sides for "push/pull" mode.

Finally, just knowing your CPU and graphics card models is only 1/2 the "total heat generated" picture when you consider a lot of enthusiasts who water cool also overclock their rigs to squeeze out additional performance. Overclocking can boost your performance, but it also boosts your total heat generated, typically with heat added at a non-linear rate +Y for each +X of overclocking. (In other words, for a mythical CPU A you might see only +4 degrees max temps when overclocking from 3.5GHz to 3.6 GHz, but by the time you get to 4.5 to 4.6, that same +100 MHz might add +10 degrees. The same goes for overclocking your graphics cards.)

Here are many of the inputs typically needed:
  • CPU
  • Expected Overclock amount, if any
  • GFX
  • Expected Overclock amount, if any
  • PSU (and total power draw)
  • # of spinning HDD (SSDs are virtually "free" when it comes to heat)

Similar to this awesome total PSU requirement calculator, there are online tools to calculate your total system heat output in WATTS.

You can then make a moderately informed determination of the amount and type of cooling you need, with the additional variables of push or pull versus push/pull, and fan speed versus noise.
post #1477 of 1963
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotMandatory View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by kayan View Post

Darlene,

thanks for getting back to me again biggrin.gif

I'm concerned with cooling capabilities as I was suggested to get no less than 600mm of rad for my hardware +1 extra gpu when funds permit.

I have a AMD FX9370 and a Radeon r9-290x. I figured through much research that a 560mm of rad would be ok. Would 520 still be enough? Or would you recommend another 240 in front?

If so, what sizes would be best if I have to use both?

Kayan:

I don't want to speak for Darlene, but there are a number of variables missing with regard to the total cooling capacity that you'll need. And even with those additional variables, total length of radiators would only be one aspect of your system's cooling capability.

For example, a 240mm long x 140mm wide radiator is still missing a key component: height (or depth). Obviously a 30mm high x 240mm long x 140mm wide offers less cooling than the same 240x140 length and width rad when it is 60mm high.

Furthermore, even if all of the radiator dimensions are known, the amount of cooling one particular rad can provide will then vary dramatically by how fast the fans are running. Are you looking to water cool because you want to run the fans at minimum and have it be whisper quiet, even when gaming? That's a very different requirement than being willing to have the fans running full blast because noise isn't one of your concerns.

In addition, you gain a fairly significant % of additional cooling capacity with the same radiator based upon whether you have fans on just one side of the rad (push or pull), versus doubling up and putting fans on both sides for "push/pull" mode.

Finally, just knowing your CPU and graphics card models is only 1/2 the "total heat generated" picture when you consider a lot of enthusiasts who water cool also overclock their rigs to squeeze out additional performance. Overclocking can boost your performance, but it also boosts your total heat generated, typically with heat added at a non-linear rate +Y for each +X of overclocking. (In other words, for a mythical CPU A you might see only +4 degrees max temps when overclocking from 3.5GHz to 3.6 GHz, but by the time you get to 4.5 to 4.6, that same +100 MHz might add +10 degrees. The same goes for overclocking your graphics cards.)

Here are many of the inputs typically needed:
  • CPU
  • Expected Overclock amount, if any
  • GFX
  • Expected Overclock amount, if any
  • PSU (and total power draw)
  • # of spinning HDD (SSDs are virtually "free" when it comes to heat)

Similar to this awesome total PSU requirement calculator, there are online tools to calculate your total system heat output in WATTS.

You can then make a moderately informed determination of the amount and type of cooling you need, with the additional variables of push or pull versus push/pull, and fan speed versus noise.
The online PSU calculators often greatly exaggerate the amount of power you need. It is great for working out how much power your overclocked CPU will chow. But more than that not really cause you do not have the same functionality with GPU's. If you need help on PSU's Shilka is your go to guy!
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post #1478 of 1963
hi all, i was just wondering if there's any good 820 mod guides around, i'd like to be able to fit a thicker radiator with fans up top, i'm looking at get an xspc ax360 but really want a alphacool ut60. i know i can fit it with the fans in the attic but that just seems less optimum. thanks for the help!
post #1479 of 1963
Hi, I'd like to join, is there a form I need to complete?

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post #1480 of 1963
I've got my build up and running, my bottom 240 rad is running without any fans at the moment, and temps are great! I assume once my fans come in (today), that they will be even better!

I've got a question for any/everyone who has a custom loop at the top of the 630....what is the thickest 360mm rad you used in the top, without any modding whatsoever?
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-6700k Asus Maximus Gene VIII Zotac 980ti Amp! Omega Corsair Dominator Platinum (2x8) 3200mhz 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 950 Pro m.2 512gb  Crucial m500 960gb Corsair h100i Windows 10 Pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG 34uc97 Logitech g810 Seasonic Snow Silent 750w in-Win 303 Black 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Logitech g900 Chaos Spectrum Logitech G440 Sony MDR-Z7 Creative t40 
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Blue Yeti Microphone 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-6700k Asus Maximus Gene VIII Zotac 980ti Amp! Omega Corsair Dominator Platinum (2x8) 3200mhz 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 950 Pro m.2 512gb  Crucial m500 960gb Corsair h100i Windows 10 Pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG 34uc97 Logitech g810 Seasonic Snow Silent 750w in-Win 303 Black 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Logitech g900 Chaos Spectrum Logitech G440 Sony MDR-Z7 Creative t40 
Audio
Blue Yeti Microphone 
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Reply
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