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post #11 of 33
Loop order doesn't matter at all, the only thing to observe is to have the res before the pump for easy filling, and to have an easily accessed fitting at the bottom of the loop for draining.

1500w will be hugely more than you need. I'd be surprised if you were using 1200 watts. An MCP35x2 doesn't draw much - maybe 35w. As an example for fans, Gentle Typhoon AP-15s pull about a watt each, allow double that for inrush current at startup. You'll still be fine by a huge margin.

You might have to add just a little more to the budget, but I'd get a top-notch case for this kind of system. You've dropped enough money already, I'd not skimp on the case. I'd get a caselabs. Mountain mods look good too. Danger den make good w/c cases as well I hear. I'd not look much further than that - these are about the only cases that have that kind of build quality and flexibility. Nothing else comes close - I've looked around, there are plenty of good air-cooling cases out there, some of which can accommodate a modest amount of watercooling gear, but there is nothing that's actually designed properly to accommodate watercooling for your kind of system. You need to get rid of a kilowatt of heat without it sounding like a leaf-blower, so you actually need quite a lot of properly designed rad mounting points.

Budget wise, let's say about this:

$200 pump
$500 for 4 full cover 680 blocks and backplates
$100 CPU block
$400 rads (something like 3 x 480 rads, or 4 x 360s)
$350 fans (reckoning on push-pull, so 24 scythe AP-15 gentle typhoons)
$250 aquacomputer stuff for monitoring and control (say an Aquaero 5 pro, a flow meter, some inline water temperature sensors, the aquaero waterblock)
$200 fittings (assuming you don't want/need quick disconnects, in which case you need to add some more)

That comes to $2000 (all very rough figures, but I think accurate enough to work with)

Caselabs cases come in around $500 I think, add a bit more if you want/need a pedestal for more rads, but you could always add that later and anyway you won't _need_ it, you'll still fit enough rad in just the case.

If anything, I'd cut down in the rest of the parts to get the right case. For example, you could get one of the caselabs cases that can take a 1080 rad, and replace 3x360s or 2x480s with one of those - the phobya 1080 is really cheap and is very good, you can then get the grill to run 4x180mm fans on it which are quieter than 9x120mm anyway and are a whole lot cheaper - I use 4 x Silverstone FM-181 which are double ball bearing, quiet, and flow plenty of air.

2 x 480s+ 16 fans to go with them is about $500, wheras a phobya 1080, the grill and 4xFM-181 comes to around $250, so you can save enough there to get in budget if you allow $2300.
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post #12 of 33
I like what boris said. Go with that.
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post #13 of 33
Thread Starter 
Looks like this is going to be a lot more expensive than I thought...
I am going with the Little Devil V8 case since it can house 3 480 rads internally and is not a "box" design.
So rad wise, which brand should I go with?
Same for the blocks.
Also, the cards already have backplates on them, so that is not needed.
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post #14 of 33
Hey man I'm a little late joining the thread. If you can fit them I would recommend Alphacool NexXxos UT60 or Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 480 if you have silence in mind at all. This way you can get ultimate cooling capacity with a lower speed on your fans assuming that you will be running a fan controller and have silence in mind. I would guess the Little Devil v8 can fit those? Check out the review here.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/

As for water blocks that would all depend on the other components in the case. I would try to match it to your CPU block and other blocks but that is just my preference. Have you chosen a cpu block yet? I was about to link to the 2012 CPU block roundup but it appears the information had to be removed for whatever reason. frown.gif IIRC some of the top blocks where EK supremacy HF, Swiftech apogee hd 4 port, alphacool nexxxos.

I need to look more thoroughly into your other hardware. brb.

I think 4 of these would look sexy on your cards and would look great with that dominator ram. I have the gtx 670 version pair with some alphacool nexxxos radiators and it keeps my gpu nice and cool at 38 degrees under load and my house is very warm. smile.gif
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p13488_Watercool-HEATKILLER--GPU-X--GTX-680--Hole-Edition--Ni-Bl.html

or alternatively you could go with the EK CSQ lineup and have all matching waterblocks cpu, gpu's and possibly motherboard if they make it for your board.
Black set:
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p14090_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-FB-KIT-RE4---Acetal-Nickel-CSQ.html
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p13574_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-FC680-GTX-CSQ---Acetal---Nickel.html
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p13553_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Supremacy---Acetal---Nickel--1156-1155-1oe-2011-AM2-AM3-939-XEON-.html

Frosty set:
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p14091_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-FB-KIT-RE4---Nickel-CSQ.html
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p13573_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-FC680-GTX-CSQ---Nickel.html
http://www.aquatuning.us/product_info.php/info/p13552_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Supremacy---Nickel--1156-1155-1oe-2011-AM2-AM3-939-XEON-.html

of course these can probably be found elsewhere this is just my favorite shop. biggrin.gif
Edited by NewHighScore - 11/5/12 at 5:47am
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post #15 of 33
Thread Starter 
Thanks a lot for all the feedback!
I was actually looking into that EK set seeing how they have a SLI bridge and I think those just look a lot cleaner!
So now I just need to finalize it all and pull the trigger on it

One last question;
If I were to cool the mobo, would the GPU's get in the way of the mobo ports?
It looks iffy in some pictures.
Motherboard is a Asus Rampage IV Extreme
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post #16 of 33
Oh yeah I never thought about the quad SLI being in the way of the chipset heastsink tongue.gif. The motherboard blocks are just optional and more aesthetic than anything I believe but I may be wrong. Looks like you better sell those 680's to me for super cheap and buy 4 reference 670's tongue.gif hehe jkjk

Check the RIVE club around here? Maybe they can offer some input on that. Or the OCN Water Cooling Club And Picture Gallery might be able to offer some input.
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post #17 of 33
Nice find on the case - I hadn't seen those before, look like it will do the job very well.

I think you probably should try and water cool the chipset if you can, as I understand X79 gets quite hot. Sorry, but I can't offer any input on whether the GPUs will block the ports, hopefully someone in the RIVE club will be able to help.

Yeah, the EK SLI bridge is nice. I brought one, then couldn't use it since where it meets the ports on the waterblocks, it prevents having another card in-between the GPUs (I have a sound card sandwiched between two of mine), but it certainly looks very nice and clean.

CPU blocks, I'd look at EK supremacy, the watercool blocks, aquacomputer, xspc raystorm and the DT 5 NOZ which is extremely unrestrictive. A shame the 2012 roundup seems to have vanished, but martins liquid lab and skinneelabs should have some info. Basically, anything reasonably recent is very unlikely to be "bad", the differences are one or two degrees which is pointless worrying about since mount quality variation will wipe that out anyway, I'd just get what you like aesthetically as long as it is reasonably well regarded for performance.
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post #18 of 33
I know that GTX680 doesn't really put out a ton of heat but you do have four of them and a 2011 cpu with a good oc does put out some heat too. You might want to consider an external rad. I use a phoyba 1080 as well as a couple of rads in my case.

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post #19 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by BababooeyHTJ View Post

I know that GTX680 doesn't really put out a ton of heat but you do have four of them and a 2011 cpu with a good oc does put out some heat too. You might want to consider an external rad. I use a phoyba 1080 as well as a couple of rads in my case.

Sorry to take the thread a little off-topic (but it still might be useful for OP anyway) - I was just wondering if you monitor enough to know what kind of delta you have under load with your setup? How many extra rads other than the 1080 do you have? Just curious to compare against my own system with the 1080, as I think the heat-load of our systems is probably quite similar.
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post #20 of 33
I have an Alphacool 420 UT-60 and monsta 240. I just know that I had to really crank the fans to keep my video cards under 50c. I have some arctic cooling F14 fans in push pull on the 420 and some GT-2150s in push pull on the 240. Since I added the monsta I can keep everything under 45c at the same clocks without turning the fans up over 1000rpm. In fact turning up the fans doesn't seem to make a difference.

My third card runs a bit cooler. I'm pretty sure that if I were to remount the blocks on the other two cards that I could bring temps down a bit. I'm just not in a rush to actually pull the cards and try it out.
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