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Tator Tot's Big "Quiet" 120mm & 140mm Fan Round-Up - Page 143

post #1421 of 2743
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator Tot View Post

With GT Stealth's, you'll want to use a high pressure fan like the Blade Master's.

That's a very dense radiator at 30FPI. So you're not going to be able to use a "quiet" solution really. With PWM functionality you should be able to tie the fans into your CPU fan header, so they can be dynamically controlled by your CPU temps.

Sorry not quite following with the whole cpu fan header. Can I plug them into my motherboard and control them through bios?
Also how would you know if the yates are fake or not?
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post #1422 of 2743
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Da1Nonly View Post


Sorry not quite following with the whole cpu fan header. Can I plug them into my motherboard and control them through bios?
Also how would you know if the yates are fake or not?

 

Only certain companies get Yate's directly from Yate Loon and not a third party.

 

Petra's Tech Shop / Sidewinder Computers, Aquatuning.US, & certain companies (Nexus & Xion Alphawings) were the only confirmed companies originally. Jab Tech started to get Yate's directly from Yate, as they are marked in such a fashion on their store page with "-Directly from YL"

 

The Medium Speeds cost $5.99 individually from Jab Tech, but $4.99 if you buy four or more.

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post #1423 of 2743
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator Tot View Post

Only certain companies get Yate's directly from Yate Loon and not a third party.

Petra's Tech Shop / Sidewinder Computers, Aquatuning.US, & certain companies (Nexus & Xion Alphawings) were the only confirmed companies originally. Jab Tech started to get Yate's directly from Yate, as they are marked in such a fashion on their store page with "-Directly from YL"

The Medium Speeds cost $5.99 individually from Jab Tech, but $4.99 if you buy four or more.

Damn...
so these:
http://www.jab-tech.com/120mm-fans/yate-loon-120mm-case-fan-d12sm-12-medium-speed/
are fake?
and these:
http://www.jab-tech.com/120mm-fans/yate-loon-120mm-case-fan-d12sm-12-direct-from-yl/
are real?
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post #1424 of 2743
Thread Starter 

 

They are not "fake" they are just built to a lower quality standard.

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post #1425 of 2743
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tator Tot View Post

They are not "fake" they are just built to a lower quality standard.

God to know. Thanks Tator Tot!! You the man. Now I need to figure out if I want to buy the Yates or the cooler masters...
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post #1426 of 2743
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paps.pt View Post

Is there any advantage in terms of noise to buy a Noctua NF-A9x14 PWM 92x14mm fan for the vrms, ram and Mosfet section of my gpu's when using the Asetek 760gc clc watercooling kit or will the 4 times cheaper arctic cooling P9 PWM 92x25mm be enough because there will be no noticeable difference?




I have a couple of the AC's and they are surprisingly quiet. They also push a good amount of air for their size, I would definitely recommend them. I think Noctua may be overkill for that application.
post #1427 of 2743
Mr. Tot, I popped the blades off my Gelid Silent 14 to paint the frame white and noticed that the axel was all smothered in semi-transparent lubricating oil. I popped the axel back in after the frame dried, but I'd like to ask--is that some high quality lubricant, or will using something like 3-in-1 oil on it in the future will be fine?
   
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post #1428 of 2743
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElevenEleven View Post

Mr. Tot, I popped the blades off my Gelid Silent 14 to paint the frame white and noticed that the axel was all smothered in semi-transparent lubricating oil. I popped the axel back in after the frame dried, but I'd like to ask--is that some high quality lubricant, or will using something like 3-in-1 oil on it in the future will be fine?

 

You may have broken the bearing seal on the Silent 14. If it's the same as the Silent 12's & Silent 8's then you definitely did. 

 

Either way, yes it's a special oil. Though you could replace it with a few different types of oil, you don't want to use 3-in-1 though. As that's a penatrant. 

 

You want to use the oil that they use for organs, model trains, etc. Stuff like Singer Oil (available @ Walmart/Kmart/Target), Heavy XL Model Engine Oil (available at hobby shops), or Radio Shack's "Precision Lubrication Oil." 

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post #1429 of 2743
There's a slightly rubbery black ring over the reservoir, and the underside of the blade cap has a white circular border as well. I cleaned everything very thoroughly before putting it back together, avoiding removing any of the lubricant. Seems like the top closes the reservoir very well.
   
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post #1430 of 2743
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElevenEleven View Post

There's a slightly rubbery black ring over the reservoir, and the underside of the blade cap has a white circular border as well. I cleaned everything very thoroughly before putting it back together, avoiding removing any of the lubricant. Seems like the top closes the reservoir very well.

 

Yeah, it should have actually had a "paste" of sorts around it, that acts as a hermetic seal.

 

It shouldn't negatively effect the bearing if it's back together tight; but I wouldn't normally recommend doing it either. As those types of bearings are pressure locked together in manufacturing.

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Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Air Cooling › Tator Tot's Big "Quiet" 120mm & 140mm Fan Round-Up