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Measuring VRM Temps

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
I recently upgraded from a GTX 560 to 660 on my sig rig, largely because the 560 had chronic VRM overheat problems, despite adding a huge VRM heatsink and fan.

After extensive load testing the new 660, I installed my Koolance GPU-220 on the die and Enzotech MOS-C1 heatsinks on each of the 8 VRM transistors.


Now I'm worried that the lack of airflow over the VRMs might cook them. I have an infared thermometer, and it says the heatsinks are getting to almost 120C during Furmark! Is that too hot for VRMs?

However, I can't set the emmisivity factor on the thermometer, and its hard-set to .95. But the emmsivity of polished copper is .06. I have no idea how that will affect my readings. I usually use electrical tape on what I'm reading, but the heatsinks are too small for that.

I also have a contact thermocouple thermometer, but I think if I try to use that, I'll just knock the sinks off.

Does anyone know if my infared readings are accurate? Should I even be worried about this? I have no plans on overclocking the 660; I'm CPU bound anyway.
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post #2 of 7
120C is pretty darn toasty, wow. I would venture a guess that half the problem is airflow through that case. The air never gets close enough to the graphics card to make a lick of difference. Perhaps a decent slot blower next to the 660 would make a difference? That's what I would try next anyway.

Something like this, that is actively sucking the air from/to the gfx card and blowing it right out of the case.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835114024
Edited by ForNever - 11/4/12 at 2:39pm
    
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post #3 of 7
What covers the VRM with default cooler?

NVM...i see its cooled by stock coolers base plate.
Does stock coolers base plate not split away from the core/heatsink like the older GTX4xx cards?
Edited by superj1977 - 11/4/12 at 2:44pm
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post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ForNever View Post

120C is pretty darn toasty, wow. I would venture a guess that half the problem is airflow through that case. The air never gets close enough to the graphics card to make a lick of difference. Perhaps a decent slot blower next to the 660 would make a difference? That's what I would try next anyway.
Something like this, that is actively sucking the air from/to the gfx card and blowing it right out of the case.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835114024

There's no room for that. There's only 2 slots left on the left side of the GPU, and one is used by the GPU itself, so the fan would have go up against the bulkhead separating the PSU compartment. If you look at the image in my sigrig, you can see the card slots and how little room there is (the picture is of the old GPU, and the NIC you can see in the image is gone).


Quote:
Originally Posted by superj1977 View Post

What covers the VRM with default cooler?
NVM...i see its cooled by stock coolers base plate.
Does stock coolers base plate not split away from the core/heatsink like the older GTX4xx cards?

On the 660, there's nothing over the VRMs itself. The fan sticks out beyond the end of the card, kinda-maybe blows over the VRMs, through the heatsink and out the back of the slot. The cooler setup as a whole is really cheap. The heatsink looks like a stock socket 478 cooler; its just a hunk of extruded aluminum that sits over the core. I really doubt much air makes it over the VRMs, though, since the inductors are in the way and are HUGE. But that's more than the almost 0 I got now!

Again, I'm not terribly confident in the temp measurement I'm getting, though I can tell you those sinks are REALLY FREAKING HOT. The GPU reports the VRM load though, and it rarely goes over 60% or so (furmark puts it at 100%), so maybe I won't worry about it. I also heard that Low RDS(on) like these appear to be are rated to 125C.

But still... That's really hot... Ugh, I dunno.
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post #5 of 7
Is there any particular reason you cant direct a fans airflow over the heatsinks then?
Thats what i do with my top card, infact i have hot glu-guned a 80mm fan on top of the card blowing down on the VRM area.
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post #6 of 7
Thread Starter 
There's no room on above the card; the lid sits almost flush against the card (I had to trim down the PCIe connectors.) I'd have to put the fan behind the card, blowing in towards the die. Not sure there's room for that; the case is tight and the water lines run along there.

On my old 560, I had a 40mm fan wedged between the back of the card and part of the case, blowing across that giant DIY heatsink in the photo. It still wasn't enough on that POS. And yes, the heatsink did get hot; it made at least decent thermal contact.

I wanted to get rid of that fan; its loud and I can't stand computer noise (also I do online radio broadcasts). I don't want to go back to that fan!
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post #7 of 7
Get a new case man, that thing is just not conducive for any kind of performance pc, horrid air flow.
    
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DDC 3.1 HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 680 LT Koolance Exos Pump & Controller (CPU chilled loop) Coolit FreeZone (pelts & pelt water block only) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Custom Copper Heat Exchanger For Pelts Koolance TNK-400 (Pelts Hot Side) HW Labs GTX 360 Radiator (Pelts Hot Side) HW Labs GTX 120 Radiator (VGA Loop) 
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Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
VTX4-25SAT3-256G Samsung HD103SJ Raid1 Sandisk Extreme 240G (games) Koolance CPU-300-V10 Water Block 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
DDC 3.1 HEATKILLER® GPU-X³ GTX 680 LT Koolance Exos Pump & Controller (CPU chilled loop) Coolit FreeZone (pelts & pelt water block only) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Custom Copper Heat Exchanger For Pelts Koolance TNK-400 (Pelts Hot Side) HW Labs GTX 360 Radiator (Pelts Hot Side) HW Labs GTX 120 Radiator (VGA Loop) 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Win7 64/Linux SuSe Samsung 22" 1080 Saitek Eclipse II TP-1200M 
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Altec Lansing MX6021 
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