Quote:
Originally Posted by
Agusta0750 
NOt sure how to a do a screen shot but here is the copy and paste. lol
eXtreme PSU Calculator
Send To Printer Back To Calculator
Notes: (Only text visible within note field will print.)
System Type: 1 physical CPU
Motherboard: High End - Desktop
CPU Socket: Socket LGA 1156
CPU: Intel Core i5-760 2800 MHz Lynnfield
CPU Utilization (TDP): 90% TDP
RAM: 4 Sticks DDR3 SDRAM
Video Card 1: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 470
Video Card 2: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 470
Video Type: SLI
ATTENTION: FOR PERSONAL, NON-COMMERCIAL USE ONLY
Regular SATA: 6 HDDs
Green SATA: 2 HDDs
DVD-RW/DVD+RW Drive: 1 Drive
Blu Ray BD-RE/DVD/CD: 1 Drive
Sound Blaster w/ Front Bay: Yes
Front Bay Card Reader: Yes
Fans
Regular: 1 Fan 140mm;
LED: 2 Fans 80mm; 1 Fan 120mm; 2 Fans 140mm; 1 Fan 250mm;
Water Cooling Kit: Corsair Hydro H60
Keyboard and mouse: Yes
System Load: 90 %
Capacitor Aging (+ W %): 20 %
Minimum PSU Wattage: 802 Watts
Recommended Wattage: 852 Watts
Recommended Amperage: +3.3V +5V +12V
10.9 A 19.1 A 60.1 A
Recommended UPS rating: 1440 VA
© 2004-2012 eXtreme Outer Vision. All rights reserved.
Privacy Policy | Terms of Service | Contact | FAQ
I'm glad you're using the Pro version of the calculator because it shows the recommended +12V capacity. Here it is showing 60.1A which comes out to be about 720W. This means that pretty much any quality-made 750W power supply is enough here because almost any quality-made (or recommendable) 750W power supply would have a +12V capacity of at least 60A (720W). For example, the 750W Rosewill CAPSTONE Modular Cable Version has a +12V capacity of 62A, which is 744W. Then it has a +3.3V capacity of 24A (79W), and a +5V capacity of 24A (120W). So really, this PSU could be labeled as a 943W power supply because that would be its absolute peak.
Now, the 850W Thermaltake Toughpower's label says that its +12V capacity is 71A, and it says 850W. If 71A is true, then that's 852W. If 850W is true, then that's 70.83333333333333A. Either way, it's much more than 60A (720W). Then on top of that, it says the +3.3V capacity is 25A, which is 82.5W. Then the +5V capacity is 25A, which is 125W. It also has a +5VSB capacity of 6A which is 30W. Putting it altogether comes out to be 1,087.5W. This would be its absolute maximum peak. This is why it can easily sustain a power delivery of 850W.
So even with the unrealistic calculations that come from using 90% System Load and 20% Capacitor Aging, your PSU is still overkill. ;)
However, I recommend trying some other calculations by changing only the System Load and Capacitor aging to some of the following combination examples:
- 70% and 0%
- 70% and 10%
- 70% and 15%
- 75% and 0%
- 75% and 10%
- 75% and 15%
- 80% and 0%
- 80% and 10%
- 80% and 15%
You don't have to be limited by these combinations, but it can show just how much of a difference these two settings alone make.
Now, I'd say that the most realistic combination is #5, or maybe even #8. Each "System Load" percentage is in regards to the entire system. So 75% system load means that everything connected to the PSU is at 75% load. If your CPU and video cards are completely maxed out simultaneously but everything else is idling, then that would still only be about 85 to 90% system load for this calculator.
Still, even using 90% and 20% produces results that are well within your PSU's capacity - and the combination of 90% and 20% is actually quite extreme.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Agusta0750
About my wall outlet, i just want to make sure my computer is getting enough amps so im not poping breakers.
I guess if i never pop one i;m fine.
Well, 15A on a 120V outlet is 1800W. ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Agusta0750
wow, i didn't know that the efficiency worked that way.
good to know!
also how do you post part of someone elses quote in your reply, that makes it so much quicker! lol
Im a noob to forums!
Nah, it's all good. Just click the "Quote" button on the bottom-right portion of their post.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Agusta0750
One last ? before i hit the sack.
My computer issn't used for about 8 hours at night and about 8 hours durring the day.
so most of the time for 16 hours straight of no use. should i shut it off, leave it running, or put it in sleep mode?
Thanks for all the help!!! Happy i learned somethiing new
I will check up on this in the moring
It's completely up to you, but I prefer to turn mine off whenever I'm not using it. However, I will only turn it off if I think I'll be away for over 30 minutes because usually that turns into an hour or more. lol I never put it to sleep because shutting it down means that Windows gets restarted! Plus, Sleep mode works much better on laptops.
One reason I do this is that my system alone pulls about 110W from the wall (not to be confused with 110V) while it's idling. So, leaving my system on 24/7 is like leaving a 110W light bulb on 24/7. Not only that, but I have to assume that my system shares another similarity with a light bulb: the more use it gets, the sooner it will wear out.
Edited by TwoCables - 11/6/12 at 7:28pm
