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I think I fried my power supply?

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
So I hooked up an LED strip on a simple toggle switch and attached it to my 12V rail. I was booting up and having fun turning my lights on and off, when I noticed my machine was no longer receiving power confused.gif

Opening it up, I have seen that if I turn the PS off for a while then turn it back on, the MB light will come on for a split-second then go dark. I figure this means I fried my power supply. mad.gif

Is there anything I can do to fix it? And would what I've done cause the company to deny a warranty claim?
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post #2 of 10
Did you remove the led stuff when you tried to boot the computer?
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post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I unplugged it. No joy frown.gif
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post #4 of 10
All I can advise is unplug everything from the power supply and short the green wire to a black with a paper clip, with a hard drive connected, and check voltages.
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post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
With the supply on, or off? Plugged in?

EDIT: Yes, obviously rolleyes.gif
Edited by jamdox - 11/10/12 at 7:38pm
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Soyokaze
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post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 
Holy poop balls, the PS is working! All the pins check out...and it's a "single rail" design, so I figure the other connectors are OK too...

What does this mean, what does this mean.... !?!?!?!?!?!??! Is my motherboard fried!?!?!?!?!?!?doh.gif

EDIT: Thanks by the way. +rep, or whatnot. thumb.gif
Edited by jamdox - 11/10/12 at 8:03pm
Soyokaze
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Soyokaze
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post #7 of 10
do you have another mobo laying around to test around? hopefully it's not your mobo, that would suck frown.gif
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post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
Noope. It's under warranty and I have my old laptop, so I should be OK...
Soyokaze
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Soyokaze
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post #9 of 10
I'd hook the psu up and try it again.
X79
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post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
IT'S ALIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIVE!!!!!!!!!!1

EDIT:

Yep, it's back! Thanks!

I cleared *all* the capacitors I could, holding down the system power button, then taking out the CMOS battery and shorting the socket. Whatever it was, worked.

I also wrapped the leads to the switch in electical tape, in case it was arcing that cause the problem.

Here's a picture with the case as normal:



As you can see, a utilitarian case. The IO ports can be hard to see, so I installed the LEDs:



Very useful! I'm grateful to everyone who helped me get it working.
Edited by jamdox - 11/11/12 at 2:50am
Soyokaze
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Server
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3570k 4.8GHz Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H Asus GTX 660 OC 16GB Samsung 30nm DDR3 1866 CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Crucial M4 SSD WDC WD5000ABYS-01TNA0  Corsair Neutron GTX 240 Prolimatech Genesis w/2 TY-141 
OSOSMonitorMonitor
Mac OSX 10.8.3 Windows 7 Defective Korean POS 2560x1440 IPS Asus VE276Q 1920x1080 TN 27" 
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Ducky Shine II with MX Clear switches XFX PRO550W Lian Li PC-100 Razer Diamondback 
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CyberPower CP850PFCLCD UPS 
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Western Digitial 320GB IDE Maxtor 200GB IDE Hitachi 120GB 2.5" Boot Drive Mac OSX 10.7.5 
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Soyokaze
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Server
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3570k 4.8GHz Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H Asus GTX 660 OC 16GB Samsung 30nm DDR3 1866 CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
Crucial M4 SSD WDC WD5000ABYS-01TNA0  Corsair Neutron GTX 240 Prolimatech Genesis w/2 TY-141 
OSOSMonitorMonitor
Mac OSX 10.8.3 Windows 7 Defective Korean POS 2560x1440 IPS Asus VE276Q 1920x1080 TN 27" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Ducky Shine II with MX Clear switches XFX PRO550W Lian Li PC-100 Razer Diamondback 
Other
CyberPower CP850PFCLCD UPS 
CPUMotherboardHard DriveHard Drive
Intel Atom D525 Gigabyte GA-525TUD WD Caviar Black 1TB WD Caviar Black 1TB 
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Western Digitial 320GB IDE Maxtor 200GB IDE Hitachi 120GB 2.5" Boot Drive Mac OSX 10.7.5 
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