WARNING * * * NERD ALERT * * *
While I'm waiting on major stuff to come in, I took advantage of the time to work on some of the electronics and controls I want to have onboard to manage my sytem.
As everyone must know by now, I'm going with a triple loop setup with the Bitspower dual D5 acrylic pump tops with the new PWM D5's.
My switch build has triple 35X's for the internal CPU / mobo loop and I made up a nice PWM controller for it that lets me set the speed manually, or switch it to auto control from the mobo CPU fan header.
I want to have a similar setup for this build, but it needs to be triple channel, with each channel controlling a pair of the D5's.
So as usual, there's nowhere to go buy one, so I designed and made up a pcb to make my own.
Rather than be ordinary and use a knob to set the pump speed like I did in my switch build, I decided on a dual push button interface. Push the top button for each channel and the speed increases, push the lower button and it decreases . . . like the volume on most TVs / remotes.
The nice thing is that the button control board plugs onto the main pcb, so the controller can be used with the new button controls or the old potentiometer with a knob control.
Each channel has a switch to select between manual control, or mobo based control.
I also made up a single channel version to use for preinstallation testing. I want to get some speed versus flow rate numbers, and also see if the flow rate gets better when powered with 24V, versus 12V.
After getting the PWM controller pcb designed, I made up a pcb design to translate the tach signal from fans controlled by an FC9.
The FC9 varies voltage by raising the negative line, as opposed to lowering the positive line. . . . If you try to monitor the RPM of a fan on an FC9, it will only read at max speed, as soon as you slow it down even slightly, you loose the reading.
I learned this building my external cooling module, and designed a circuit to translate the tach signal from +12V referenced, to Gnd referenced, which can then be read by any display.
At the time, I just made it up on a piece of perf-board figuring how many of these things could I possibly ever need , . . . . and then later when I wanted a fan speed display on my switch build which also uses an FC9, I made another one . . again on perfboard . . . like I was really ever going to need yet another . . . .
Well this time, I designed a pcb for it, so it'll be easier each time I need one now. . . . Shoulda done it at the get-go.
Here's some pics:
Here's my switch build where you can see the FC9 at the top, the PWM controls (switch and knob) on each side of the small (aerocool Easywatch) display that displays the pump speed, flowrate, and pump heatsink fan rpm. . . and the Aerocool X-Vision display at the bottom for the rad fans.
Here it is zoomed in a bit:
Here's the tach signal translation board I made when I built the external cooling module:
And here's the one in the switch build:
And a close up on the board, it's mounted on a piece of acrylic which just slides into the bay behind the display:
Here's the original PWM controller for the switch build during testing running two 35X's:
And here's the new tach translation pcb:
Here's the new PWM controller, single channel version, with the push button interface pcb in front:
Here's the triple channel version with the control pcb:
I already have my Digikey order made up
As far as where everything is going and how I'm setting it up, I ordered two of the X-Vision displays, an FC9, and one of these:
I have no idea what it is, but the bay mount housing is perfect for mounting my PWM controller pcb and putting the buttons and auto / manual switches on the front panel. I'll toss whatever comes in it in the misc junk box.
Those 4 items should go nicely in the front optical drive bays.
The X-Visions display 5 RPM's and 5 temps.
The upper one will display the top rad's upper fan and lower fan speeds and the 3 loops pumps speeds from the rpm displays.
The lower one will display the lower rad's top and bottom fan speeds, and the flow rate for each loop from the rpm displays.
The upper one will show water temp in and out of the top rad, while the lower one will show water temp in and out of both loops on the lower, dual circuit, rad. The remaining temp sensors are not yet committed.
It may not seem like much, but being able to come up with one of a kind pcbs and being able to design unique controls really takes time, but I think it really adds a lot of individuality and style to a build.
DarleneEdited by IT Diva - 12/30/12 at 2:46pm