Some more new stuff is starting to come in.
The next two Bitspower 400 mm res's got here, as well as the next 2 dual D5 pump tops and 4 of the PWM D5's.
While those are the main attractions, more multi link fittings came so that I can make the same res mods to these two, as I did to the first one.
I thought I'd walk you all thru the light tube mod, so that you could do it for yourself if you wanted.
It's not too hard, but it's water and high voltage electricity, so take your time and test before you put a CCFL tube in and turn it on.
I'll be walking you all thru the "jet tube" mod soon.
Essentially, I'll be putting a 1/2" OD acrylic tube down the center of the res, using a multi link w/ male thread at the end with the single centered G1/4 threaded end cap, and a female threaded multi link with a plug made to hold an LED at the end with the tri ported end cap. The recess for the LED is important.
My resevoirs are the 400mm ones, that I'm planning to set up in a horizontal position, but this mod would work just as well with vertical resevoirs, or shorter ones.
Make the tube between 24 mm and 25 mm shorter than the nominal length of the res. Mine are 375 mm to fit the 400 mm res. A 250 res would use a 225 mm tube length.
Using a plug in the multi link at the end of the light tube that has a recess for an LED is important because there is a locating pin installed into the center of the tri-ported end cap to support the free end of the light tube.
I use a short piece of 6-32 stainless steel cut from a socket head cap screw for the locating pin that screws into the drilled and tapped end cap.
To give an idea to the newcomers, of what it looks like, here's a pic of the first of the three with just distilled water:
And here it is with Mayhems Aurora, and the additional "Jet Tube" mod in testing:
Now there's a couple ways to use Bitspower multi link fittings with 1/2" acrylic tube:
The usual way is to use a rotary tool and sanding drum, and to slightly reduce the OD of the tube untill it fits in the fitting.
I opted for my own method, that is a LOT tighter and Much less likely to blowout or leak, but it takes longer, and requires a drill press and vise, and a bench belt sander helps a lot.
I bore the fittings out to accept the 1/2" tubing while keeping the original o rings, which makes for a fit like a watermellon in a canary's butt.
I then have to bevel and polish the acrylic tube ends to be able to force them back in the fittings so the o rings hold the tube captive.
Boring the fittings can be done on a drill press with a good setup. I found that doing it in 3 incremental steps works best with a minimal amout of de-burring of the o ring grooves required. Start with 15/32", then 31/64", and finally, 1/2". Be sure to use fresh sharp drills for best results.
I put some extensions in my drill press vise to get the fittings in position, and it allows for swappping out each one as it's drilled for the next one. By using an additional male to male, I can swap to the female threaded multilinks without changing my setup.
Here's my setup drilling out the multi links:
Here they are freshly drilled, but haven't had the grooves deburred yet:
Here's all the parts layed out:
Close up of the end caps and multi links with the grooves deburred, but no o rings installed yet, and the locating pins in the tri ported end caps:
Tube end bevelled and polished to be able to get it into the fitting:
Here's the o rings reinstalled back into the multi link fittings:
Fully assembled with CCFL in the tube:
And finally, with the CCFLs on, and with the pumps that go with them:
Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,
DarleneEdited by IT Diva - 5/12/13 at 6:49pm