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NZXT Phantom 820 * Stretched Limo Edition * [ build log ] - Page 39

post #381 of 990
Quote:
Originally Posted by overpower View Post

are you sure that 750w will be ok for the system? ^^

Darlene has put in two power supplies
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post #382 of 990
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by overpower View Post

are you sure that 750w will be ok for the system? ^^

That question's been answered several times already, but for the new folks:

I've mentioned a few times throughout the buildlog, that there are two main PSU's.

The 750W at the rear runs the mobo, CPU, case lighting, case fans, and 1 GPU.

The 1000W under the optical drive bays: http://www.overclock.net/t/1326148/nzxt-phantom-820-stretched-limo-edition-build-log/370#post_19147212

Runs the remaining 3 GPU's.

There are two more smaller (300W) dedicated power supplies, one is 12V and the other is 24V.

The 12v is for the rad fans and linear actuators for the gullwing side window panel, and the 24V is for the six D5 pumps.


Overall, I have wayyy more PSU reserve than needed with the addition of the seperate 300 watters, but I thought it important to be able to run the loops to leak test etc and operate the side window panel without powering up the main system and mobo.

In normal operation, all the PSU's turn on automatically when the system is powered up, but the dedicated 12V and 24V supplies can be manually powered on individually and exclusively of the system PSU's.


Darlene
post #383 of 990
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

drool.gif Pretty Colors drool.gif
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post #384 of 990
I love that res and color combo! This is going to turn out great.
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post #385 of 990
Thread Starter 
Some more new stuff is starting to come in.

The next two Bitspower 400 mm res's got here, as well as the next 2 dual D5 pump tops and 4 of the PWM D5's.

While those are the main attractions, more multi link fittings came so that I can make the same res mods to these two, as I did to the first one.

I thought I'd walk you all thru the light tube mod, so that you could do it for yourself if you wanted.

It's not too hard, but it's water and high voltage electricity, so take your time and test before you put a CCFL tube in and turn it on.

I'll be walking you all thru the "jet tube" mod soon.


Essentially, I'll be putting a 1/2" OD acrylic tube down the center of the res, using a multi link w/ male thread at the end with the single centered G1/4 threaded end cap, and a female threaded multi link with a plug made to hold an LED at the end with the tri ported end cap. The recess for the LED is important.

My resevoirs are the 400mm ones, that I'm planning to set up in a horizontal position, but this mod would work just as well with vertical resevoirs, or shorter ones.

Make the tube between 24 mm and 25 mm shorter than the nominal length of the res. Mine are 375 mm to fit the 400 mm res. A 250 res would use a 225 mm tube length.

Using a plug in the multi link at the end of the light tube that has a recess for an LED is important because there is a locating pin installed into the center of the tri-ported end cap to support the free end of the light tube.

I use a short piece of 6-32 stainless steel cut from a socket head cap screw for the locating pin that screws into the drilled and tapped end cap.


To give an idea to the newcomers, of what it looks like, here's a pic of the first of the three with just distilled water:




And here it is with Mayhems Aurora, and the additional "Jet Tube" mod in testing:




Now there's a couple ways to use Bitspower multi link fittings with 1/2" acrylic tube:

The usual way is to use a rotary tool and sanding drum, and to slightly reduce the OD of the tube untill it fits in the fitting.

I opted for my own method, that is a LOT tighter and Much less likely to blowout or leak, but it takes longer, and requires a drill press and vise, and a bench belt sander helps a lot.


I bore the fittings out to accept the 1/2" tubing while keeping the original o rings, which makes for a fit like a watermellon in a canary's butt.

I then have to bevel and polish the acrylic tube ends to be able to force them back in the fittings so the o rings hold the tube captive.


Boring the fittings can be done on a drill press with a good setup. I found that doing it in 3 incremental steps works best with a minimal amout of de-burring of the o ring grooves required. Start with 15/32", then 31/64", and finally, 1/2". Be sure to use fresh sharp drills for best results.

I put some extensions in my drill press vise to get the fittings in position, and it allows for swappping out each one as it's drilled for the next one. By using an additional male to male, I can swap to the female threaded multilinks without changing my setup.


Here's my setup drilling out the multi links:




Here they are freshly drilled, but haven't had the grooves deburred yet:




Here's all the parts layed out:




Close up of the end caps and multi links with the grooves deburred, but no o rings installed yet, and the locating pins in the tri ported end caps:




Tube end bevelled and polished to be able to get it into the fitting:




Here's the o rings reinstalled back into the multi link fittings:




Partially assembled:




Fully assembled with CCFL in the tube:




And finally, with the CCFLs on, and with the pumps that go with them:






Hope you like my mod, and are encouraged to try it for yourself,

Darlene
Edited by IT Diva - 5/12/13 at 6:49pm
post #386 of 990
That is just pure genius! Great finish!
post #387 of 990
I love the finished product.

Looks very neat biggrin.gif Great work thumb.gif
post #388 of 990
Thread Starter 
Here's the how to for the "Jet Tube" mod:


While the "light tube" mod is applicable to almost any size res, in either horizontal or vertical position, the Jet Tube mod only makes sense for larger resevoirs layed horizontally, but if you have the res set up as a focal point of your build, then this mod will make it awesomely unique, especially when done along with the light tube mod.

Similar to the light tube mod, this mod runs a length of 1/2" acrylic tube, this time with nine 1/8" diameter holes drilled in thru one side, from one end of the res to the other with the loop return connected to it at the tri-port end cap and the other end plugged with short lengths of 3/8" diameter acrylic rod.

The reason behind using nine 1/8" diameter holes is that cumulatively, they have exactly the same cross sectional area as the 3/8" ID of the acrylic tube.


This is what it looks like in operation on the first of the three Bitspower 400mm resevoirs:




Now let's mod the next two:

Since I have already bored the multi link fittings to accept the 1/2" acrylic tube in the light tube mod, we'll pick up from there.

It would be perfect if the reseviors were about 5mm larger in diameter, but they aren't, so I have to take some material off the edge of the fitting that screws into the inside of the end cap so it fits inside the ID of the main res tube.

I also have to take a little off the opposite side of the fitting to gain a bit of needed clearance for the light tube's end fitting.


Here you can see one fitting belt sanded to fit inside the main tube's ID, (right) and the second one marked for sanding (left):




Here's the inside edge cut to clear the light tube's fitting:
You can see a bit of the O ring poking out where the fitting screws into the end cap, but since it's inside the res, even if it leaks, it's not an issue.




Here's the setup to drill the jet tube . . . Check twice and drill once gives the best results:




And to keep the tube rotation from becoming a problem, stick a drill in the first hole to use to align each succeeding hole:




Here are the new tubes drilled and ready to assemble:




Here's the res's with the new jet tubes assembled:




And last, but not least, with the light tubes lit up:




Hope you guys like this mod too,

Darlene
Edited by IT Diva - 2/2/13 at 5:49pm
post #389 of 990
Hey Darlene.
Just had to say just WOW... I've been into computers since I was 4 (now 19) and have always been known in my circle of friends as being a bit of a slavedriver to my pc! (Overclocking... MOAR POWER!!!) Now I have never been much for modding myself I never really had the patience for it. (A cut here and there to get a fan to fit, that sort of thing) I prefer playing on my PC! But I just have to say what you have done... what you are still doing... is just purely AMAZING! Your skill set is just awe inspiring. Cutting, welding, planning and organisation, working with electronics and PCB's, I mean its a wonder to me that you haven't built a giant 6 legged Phantom like robot with lasers and stuff to help you take over the world!!! (IMA CHARGIN MY LAZER!!!) I'll be getting an 820 soon, but it will be staying pretty much as is! I've read your log from start to finish and I just can't ( STILL can't) wrap my head around it! Well done keep going (No matter what the nay sayers say) and I will be keeping an eye on this one!thumb.gifthumb.gifthumb.gif

Regards Alastair (S1D) Stedman
(Let the madness continue)
wheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gif
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post #390 of 990
Thread Starter 
Just a little work on the chassis this weekend.;

Fitted the top plastic parts so they sit flush on the metal top panel.

The 820 top is as challenging as it gets for piecing together several individual ones into a longer one.

Each top is made up of several individual parts, with angles and shapes slightly different between the right and left sides.

It might be easier if it was just trying to artfully join the plastic panels without regard to any other considerations,

but the overriding factor here, is that the rad has to fit, and that dictates where bits of top metal panel start and stop, and hence how the plastics get divided up.

I'll be able to do a bit more tweaking once the welds are all ground smooth, but unless I'm up for a major bondo reconstruction, this is about as good as it's going to get.

Once everything else is done, I'll revisit whether or not to work on a totally custom, (or nearly so) top.


Darlene











Edited by IT Diva - 2/3/13 at 12:23pm
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