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NZXT Phantom 820 * Stretched Limo Edition * [ build log ] - Page 43

post #421 of 990
Ah, I see what you did there with the dual reservoir/dual pump mounts. Nice secure mounting base, more possible coolant and/or led bling opportunities.
post #422 of 990
Stupendous work. I'm lovin' the door plans so far. One thing I'd like to mention, and this is purely my opinion only, but if the case feet can hold the overall weight on the ends only, perhaps you could pull the duplicate case feet out of the bottom purely for aesthetics,though it could also help feeding cold air to the rads. On the other hand, I personally don't know the structural integrity of the feet, so if you feel they wouldn't hold up, or that it would add substantial flex to the case, I can understand that and reneg my suggestion.
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Red Rover
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post #423 of 990
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phelan View Post

Stupendous work. I'm lovin' the door plans so far. One thing I'd like to mention, and this is purely my opinion only, but if the case feet can hold the overall weight on the ends only, perhaps you could pull the duplicate case feet out of the bottom purely for aesthetics,though it could also help feeding cold air to the rads. On the other hand, I personally don't know the structural integrity of the feet, so if you feel they wouldn't hold up, or that it would add substantial flex to the case, I can understand that and reneg my suggestion.

It's not as easy as it might look.

The "feet" are not really seperate from the front and back.

To eliminate the front pedestal, you'd have to cut the front portion of the plastic part that also makes up the rear "feet". . . Which couldn't be done in a way that didn't look really bad.

To eliminate the rear feet, you'd have to cut the rear portion of that same piece off, which would look just as bad.

Here's a couple pics that show the dark part that is the front pedestal part of the feet, and the big long white platic part that forms the rear feet, and also acts as the locating agent for the pedestal part.

One workable option would be to eliminate all the stock "feet" and go to something aftermarket or full custom, but I want to maintain as much of the original look and style of the case as I can, and being able to fit two full bottoms seems to be the best way to make that happen.


Darlene






post #424 of 990
Ah I see. Thanks.
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Red Rover
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post #425 of 990
What on earth are you cooling? Planning on putting a nuclear reactor in it?
post #426 of 990
Quote:
Originally Posted by t45457523 View Post

What on earth are you cooling? Planning on putting a nuclear reactor in it?

At this point she can cool anything she wants, XD

Good work, ITDiva this is a insaNE MOD!!
post #427 of 990
Darlene:

I've been following this since inception. In addition to computers, I also spend my money on RC airplanes and the thought occurred to me that a servo actuated opener might work for your doors. There are a number of very high power servos available (Hitec and JR pop to mind) that operate on 7.4v. and provide as much as 600 oz/in of torque.

A quick google produced this page ( http://www.techcraftngrafix.com.sg/articles_dnt/Using%20Servo%20for%20D.pdf ) and with your knowledge of circuits (voltage, ground, signal needed), this might be another method to consider.

If you really want some grunt, Seiko servos ( http://www.vantec.com/ssps105.htm ) will run up to 24v and produce +/- 27 ft/lbs of torque.

As part of your circuit design, you would want to slow the transit speed of the servo, as most typically go full range very quickly ( < .3 sec ).

Mark
post #428 of 990
So do you have a forklift around to move this? tongue.gif
    
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post #429 of 990
Subbed... cant wait to see the turnout... haha it would be cool to run 2 mobos through it and use one as like a server on one side and use the other side as your computer haha that would be pretty sweet lol...
post #430 of 990
Yea I'll agree with the servos and not to mention with the servos you know the location so you could make it open in a paturn
 
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Marylin
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