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NZXT Phantom 820 * Stretched Limo Edition * [ build log ] - Page 49

post #481 of 990
Thread Starter 
Got a lil' impatient and had to try a live test. . . .

So I mounted the RC board behind the front cover and plugged all the related boards up with it and the PSU.


Moment of truth and I pressed the GO button . . . .





Worked perfectly, . . . . and the window goes up and down perfectly as well.


Darlene









Here you can see the red LED on for the PSU's "turn on" relay behind the front cover mesh with all the fans running off the Aux 12V PSU:


Edited by IT Diva - 3/2/13 at 6:57pm
post #482 of 990
Oh... my.... god.... this is probably the only build that I've see with this much "ridiculousness" involved! I LOVE it!! I had been contemplating doing a gull wing door on my Force1 project. I'm not sure about it now since I've already painted but you have really made me want to revisit that idea biggrin.gifthumb.gif

Great job so far and I'm am envious of your skills. Out of curiosity do you have access to the equipment and material to etch your own PCB's because from what I've seen they are beautifully done. Sub'ed to this build for sure! thumb.gif
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post #483 of 990
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kpforce1 View Post

Oh... my.... god.... this is probably the only build that I've see with this much "ridiculousness" involved! I LOVE it!! I had been contemplating doing a gull wing door on my Force1 project. I'm not sure about it now since I've already painted but you have really made me want to revisit that idea biggrin.gifthumb.gif

Great job so far and I'm am envious of your skills. Out of curiosity do you have access to the equipment and material to etch your own PCB's because from what I've seen they are beautifully done. Sub'ed to this build for sure! thumb.gif


Yes, I make all my own boards.

I do the layout with DipTrace, and then use the "Toner Transfer System" to get the layout on the board material to etch.

http://www.diptrace.com/

http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/start_here/overview.html

The toner transfer isn't quite as perfect or foolproof as the website would have you believe, but once you get to know the ins and outs, you can get consistantly good results.

Once the etching is done, I drill them on the drill press, then dress and finish the edges.

After the board has all the components installed and passes testing, I put several heavy coats of clear laquer on the copper side to seal it.


Darlene
post #484 of 990
Hmm. On your psu selection for 5V SB...don't most psu's have +5VSB?
I was thinking this was common, but I'm far from a psu expert. As you may remember, I'm tapping from the +5VSB on my SeaSonic to energize a relay on system start.

Congrats on your remote setup!
post #485 of 990
VSB = Stand by voltage ... it's always on
If you want to energize a relay on startup use the 5V rail
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post #486 of 990
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrix View Post

Hmm. On your psu selection for 5V SB...don't most psu's have +5VSB?
I was thinking this was common, but I'm far from a psu expert. As you may remember, I'm tapping from the +5VSB on my SeaSonic to energize a relay on system start.

Congrats on your remote setup!



All PC PSU's have +5VSB, but keep in mind that I have 4 PSU's total, only 2 of which are PC type PSU's:

Primary PSU . . . . . . . . in the usual location behind the lower rad, powers the Mobo, 1st GPU, and perhaps the case lighting (NZXT 750W)

Secondary PSU . . . . . . under the optical drive bay cage for the 2nd, 3rd, & 4th GPU's . . . this one has only PCIe connections (NZXT 1000W)

Auxilliary 12V PSU . . . . mounts on the forward mobo tray area and supplies 12V for the rad fans controller and the linear actuators, with it's +5VSB supplying the RC board

Auxilliary 24V PSU . . . . mounts on the forward mobo tray area as well, and suppplies 24V for the six D5's, and with additional voltage regulators, supplies 5V and 12V for the 3 channel PWM controller, the flow meters, and the flow rate / RPM displays.

It was my selection of the Auxilliary PSU's that I was referring to, when I mentioned that having a +5VSB, (and contact on/off control) were part of the selection criteria, as only the higher end units have those features, while most do not.

The reasoning behind the PSU setup is multi fold:

To allow me to run the pumps for leak testing etc. without having to have any power to the system at all, and unplugging mobo cables just isn't practicle for something this big with hard to reach places

To allow me to open the side window to perform maintenance in the event of some problem, like a leak where powering the on the main PSU's would be contra-indicated, or the system fails to power up for some reason

The gull wing side window can't easily / reasonably be removed without it being opened, so to insure access to the inside of the PC, I have to have an essentially dedicated system to control it with built in back-ups and manual capabilities.


The way I have it all configured;

When the system powers up normally, it powers on all three additional PSU's so everything functions normally.

Additionally, I can power on either of the Auxilliary PSU's independantly of each other and of the system PSU's for testing, maintenance, or diagnostics when required.


Not exactly simple, but it does help to cover possible contingencies, and prevent me from painting myself into a corner with very slow drying paint.


Darlene
Edited by IT Diva - 3/3/13 at 7:00am
post #487 of 990
^ did anyone else get slightly lost with how complex that was? ii give you rep for simply being able think that up.
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post #488 of 990
Thread Starter 
A little more progress on the side window panel;


Pretty straight forward grunt work here for the most part . . . .

Cut acrylic panel to size and double check fit:




Sacrifice a stock side panel to be able to transition the ends of the acrylic window to the sheet metal chassis:




Check fit again:



The radiused corners look a little rough in the pic, but it's because the white paint is not evenly curved, they actually are smooth and near perfect when seen close up, and will look right again when repainted.

The formed "slot" on the front of the side panel that normally engages the front chassis panel to lock in has been redacted back to a small lip to locate the partial panel on the acrylic.


My bandsaw blade broke today after 4 or 5 years of tender loving abuse, so I didn't get to work on the hinge pads yet. I'll pick up a blade during the week and try to get the window pretty much complete next weekend.


Darlene
Edited by IT Diva - 3/3/13 at 12:30pm
post #489 of 990
That window is a monster, are you fitting anything into the window? fans etc, or any other ingenious idea you may have Darlene?
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post #490 of 990
Jeez, this build is epic! Can't wait for more! biggrin.gif
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