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First Timer at WC. Need input before ordering

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
Hello there. I'm new here at OC.net. Tought it would be a good idea to sign up in this forum since I will do my first water Cooled system. I have built several PC's during my time as a "geek" so putting it together wont be much of aproblem, I think. But since I'm new to WC I'd tought it would be best to check with you experienced folk about what I have been thinkin about putting in my system. I will also do a little overclocking (ofc) when the built is finished. I'm kinda new to that too. And I'm Norwegian, so my english skills is not nop-notch. So here it is:

Hardware:
Case: Obsidian 800D (Owned)
Mob: Asus Maximus V Formula
CPU: Intel® Core i7-2600K Processor
GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 2GB PhysX CUDA
PSU: Cooler Master Silent Pro M2 720W PSU (Modular)
RAM: Corsair Dominator DDR3 1600MHz 32GB

Monitors, keyboards and such I got.
Sorry for linking to norwegian vendor :S

Then the fun part. WC:
Pump: Swiftech MCP655 vannsirkulasjonspumpe
Reservoir: XSPC tank, Acrylic Dual 5¼" Reservoir for Laing D5, Nylon
Radiators: TechBay radiator, extreme, 3x120-45
TechBay radiator, standard, 1x140-29

CPU block: EK CPU-vannblokk, EK-Supreme LTX - Nickel CSQ
GPU block: EK vannblokk for skjermkort, EK-FC680 GTX - Nickel CSQ
Backplate for GPU block: EK bakplate for EK-FC680 GTX, sort CSQ
Coolant: AquaComputer Double Protect Ultra, 1 liter
Fans: Corsair AF120 Quiet Edition 120mm
Corsair AF140 Quiet Edition 140mm
Temperature sensor: Bitspower temperaturføler, 1/4"BSP, Matt Black
Blocks: Bitspower T-blokk, 1/4"BSPx3, Matt Black
End nut..thingy: Bitspower blindplugg, 1/4"BSP, Matt Black
Fittings: Bitspower nippel, 1/4"BSPx1/2"ID, Matt Black
Hose: PVC Tubing for Water Cooling System-Red-3/8"ID 1/2"OD
Fan/temp Controller: Scythe Fancontroller, Kaze Server 5¼", Sort
Hose clamps: Koolance CLM-10, Hose Clamp for 1/2"OD slange

Did I miss something? How does this look?

In my head my loop will go like this: Reservoir -> Top Radiator (3x120) -> CPU -> Back Radiator (1x140 Push Pull) -> GPU -> MOB Block -> Pump -> Reservoir.

Question time:
Does pump go before or after res? The pump in this setup is mounted on the res in a 5,25 bay
Does my tube look ok with 1/16" wall thickness?
Will my pump manage to push water ok through this loop?
Is there a point with another rad before the GPU like this?

I will also do alot of sleeving in this build. I'm going for a Black and Red theme with a little spraypaint work here and there.

Thanks biggrin.gif

Ekdal
Edited by Ekdal - 11/15/12 at 8:18am
post #2 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ekdal View Post

Hello there. I'm new here at OC.net.

Welcome to the forum grouphug.gif

Don't worry about your English, it is better than a lot of people on this forum.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ekdal View Post

Question time:
Does pump go before or after res? The pump in this setup is mounted on the res in a 5,25 bay
Does my tube look ok with 1/16" wall thickness?
Will my pump manage to push water ok through this loop?
Is there a point with another rad before the GPU like this?

The pump normally goes after the res as the type of pumps we use are better at pushing fluid than pulling. However the res you have chosen contains the pump, so all that is taken care of for you.

3/8" x 1/2" tubing works, I use it, however it can kink quite easily. I need to use anti-kink coils for the tighter bends however I now have them everywhere for the looks. 3/8" x 5/8" tubing is a little better at resisting kinks.

The pump will be enough to go through your loop.

Generally speaking the loop order does not make much difference as the water temperature does not change by much as it goes through the loop. It takes 264W to heat water moving at 1GPM by 1°C, so even your 2600k OC'ed running at full load wont heat the water up by 1°C. I would go for whatever gives the shortest loop with the cleanest tubing.

One thing I noticed is that your fittings are the wrong size. You tubing is 3/8" ID so your barbs need to be 3/8" too. These are the correct fittings for your tube.

The CPU block you have chosen is fine, although you will get slightly better results from the XSPC Raystorm if your budget will stretch a little.

I assume you are plugging your temperature sensors into the fan controller. They can't plug into a motherboard (but you probably already know that). I use a cheaper solution - I taped one of the stock foil sensors to the end tank of a rad... thumb.gif

For the coolant, if you can get distilled water cheaply then you can use that with some biocide - either a Silver Kill Coil or a few drops of Copper Sulphate solution. Generally that works out cheaper and performs just as well.
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post #3 of 20
Get these fans:

Corsair SP120's

http://www.komplett.no/k/ki.aspx?sku=756835

They are designed for static pressure which is what you want for fans on a radiator.
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post #4 of 20
Just thought I'd add to what the guys are saying, why people recommend 7/16" inner diameter tubing is so the tubing will fit the 1/2" barbs much better as to decrease the risk of leaks in the loop. This is normally what I would suggest, because of it being the proven method for best water flow and least amount of chance for leaking. The other way around this is those locking fittings, which will tighten over the tubing which are slightly more expensive.
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post #5 of 20
Congrats on the planning of your new watercooling build. And I hope you continue to check into OCN!
I like the way you've organized this build, for this you deserve a Rep+thumb.gif

If I may, I would suggest a change to your cpu and gpu blocks, just to switch to the copper versions. It could save you some grief in the future with potential nickel-plating issues, and it will save you a little bit of money now:D

Here are the links to your vendor in Norway for the copper versions:
www.techbay.no/product.html/ek-cpu-vannblokk-ek-supreme-ltx-csq?category_id=82

www.techbay.no/product.html/ek-vannblokk-for-skjermkort-ek-fc680-gtx?category_id=174

Looking forward to seeing your build progress.
    
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post #6 of 20
Thread Starter 
Thanks a bunch for the replies!
I will change my tubing to 3/8 x 5/8 with the correct fittings, change GPU block to the copper version, and CPU to the XSPC Raystorm (wich is Copper i guess?).
Furthermore I will go for the Corsair SP120 High Performance 2350RPM, wich I can adjust with the fan controller.
Maybe I'll switch to compression fittings, if my wallet allows it rolleyes.gif

Thanks again for the input and I'll make a build log as soon as I get the goodies biggrin.gif
post #7 of 20
Sounds good. Also remember to change to the hose clamps for 5/8" OD tubing as well. And yes, the Raystorm is copper.

Looking forward to seeing the build log.
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post #8 of 20
Thread Starter 


Just wanna double check with you guys before I send the order. Btw I changed the Tank to a single 5,25 bay so the tank and pump will be separated. And I went with regular hose fittings.
post #9 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ekdal View Post



Just wanna double check with you guys before I send the order. Btw I changed the Tank to a single 5,25 bay so the tank and pump will be separated. And I went with regular hose fittings.
This looks very good. The Raystorm's are great blocks, and you won't have any issues with nickel plating with the EK copper gpu block. The only concern I have is with the Primoflex tubing, as there have been issues with plasticizer buildup in their tubing. Here is a link to a good thread about this:
www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery
Primochill has apparently released a new version of that tubing, which is called "Advanced" LRT, but I would try to avoid the old version.:
www.overclock.net/t/1327324/props-to-primochill
So, you may wish to check into getting a tubing that doesn't have the plasticizer issues, as it can make a bit of a mess of your loop eventually!
    
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post #10 of 20
Ek rev 2 pump top, I have one looks good and improves performance, with the smaller tubing size you'll need it as your pump comes with inlet outlet for 1/2 inch ID Tubing but the pump top is g 1/4 so u can use any size tubing.

Here's my 655 pump with the rev 2 top:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1322653/my-switch-810-build-log/10#post_18563923

It also gives you more tube routing options as it has two outlets.
Edited by ilikebeer - 11/16/12 at 8:04am
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