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post #11 of 24
Thread Starter 
Just wondering what tubing size should i work with?

3/8" ID 5/8" OD

7/16" ID X 5/8" OD

1/2" ID 3/4" OD
post #12 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeroxevo View Post

Just wondering what tubing size should i work with?

3/8" ID 5/8" OD

7/16" ID X 5/8" OD

1/2" ID 3/4" OD

The bigger the better most the time so I'd definitely go with 1/2" ID. It's what I'm using now.
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post #13 of 24
Thread Starter 
Is 1/2" X 3/4" tubing difficult to work with... not that I have a small casing.,,


Just wanna know what i am dealing with
post #14 of 24
Thread Starter 
Another thing is i am tored between color theme

Currently i am doing mostly black with red/black sleeve.

would a all black (rads, pumps, blocks, compression joints) with red tubing work?

I am also thinking of pulsing chromatic light (like changing in sequence or I set em)
post #15 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeroxevo View Post

Is 1/2" X 3/4" tubing difficult to work with... not that I have a small casing.,,


Just wanna know what i am dealing with

Whatever you have is definitely bigger than my case so you'll be fine. What kind of difficulties do you think you'd have?

For reference, here is my computer. Still a work in progress though.

Edited by Ryleh - 11/17/12 at 8:21am
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post #16 of 24
Quote:
That's one of the best TIMs around, proved by several reviews, and beaten only by really exotic stuff like liquid metal TIMs.
Woohoo! I chose the NT-H1 by sheer luck biggrin.gif Quick question though... How long does TIM store? I've kept the tube closed when not in use...
post #17 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeroxevo View Post

Just wondering what tubing size should i work with?
3/8" ID 5/8" OD
7/16" ID X 5/8" OD
1/2" ID 3/4" OD

The bigger the tubing, the best it will be. I'm using 1/2'' ID 3/4''=D tubing. It isn't hard to work with, at least i had no issues. Just get a tube cutter or a sharp knife. Here is how the tubing i used looks:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeroxevo View Post

Another thing is i am tored between color theme
Currently i am doing mostly black with red/black sleeve.
would a all black (rads, pumps, blocks, compression joints) with red tubing work?
I am also thinking of pulsing chromatic light (like changing in sequence or I set em)

I would go instead with black tubing with red anti kink coils, but that's just my opinion as i prefer black over red. I actually have no idea how full red tubing would look, but it wouldn't look too bad.
This is what my loop looks like:

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post #18 of 24
Thread Starter 
Nice Rig Starbomba,

Just wondering if the cost of using barbs & hose tighteners vs compression. Which is low cost?

I like the looks of the compression, but looks expensives. Getting about 4 flats, 2 90degress, 4 45degrees.

For SLI, is using bridge or just normal tubing?

Is there any benefits for me to do parallel from CPU to GPUs?

Thanks
post #19 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeroxevo View Post

Nice Rig Starbomba,
Just wondering if the cost of using barbs & hose tighteners vs compression. Which is low cost?
I like the looks of the compression, but looks expensives. Getting about 4 flats, 2 90degress, 4 45degrees.
For SLI, is using bridge or just normal tubing?
Is there any benefits for me to do parallel from CPU to GPUs?
Thanks

Compression fittings look better, be easier to work with and may also seal better, but after using both metal and plastic clamps, i have not had a single leak in almost 6 months, bot on my HTPC and main rig. They may not look as good and maintenance may be a bit harder, but getting 6 metal clamps for the price of one compression fitting makes it worthwhile.

If you are WCing more than one GPU, you can use various kinds of SLI bridges, or spend a bit more on compressions/barbs and do the bridge yourself with extra tubing, like this setup:



What i recommend is to use full cover blocks. Those are easier to set up SLI, universal blocks are a pain in the rear because most of them do not have the length to go over the card or to be attached to bridges, making installation a bit harder. Zoom in into the GPU's of my pic to see what i'm talking about.

About the parallel/serial stuff for the GPUs, it doesn't really matter. I have my GPU's set up in series, and the GPU 1 (top) stays at the very same temp as my GPU 2 (bottom). Considering the water goes from bottom to top, even a heavily OC'd 470 does not affect the temps of the other if there is enough flow in the loop, and it has been proved several times.

On connecting the loop to the CPU, considering you have two 580's, i would advise to either connect the CPU first, or add a radiator before the CPU. You will need 480mm worth of rads for that build, so adding a 240mm rad just before the CPU will improve temps if you cannot connect the CPU first into the loop.
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post #20 of 24
Thread Starter 
I am not extremely keen on full vga block but i do see the advantage of having em. The outlay per GPU exceeds $100 inclusive of the compression joints.

I am just wondering how would a universal block vs full block be different? In term of thermal cooling performance, ease of installation and looks?
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