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Car Amplifier Hooked Up To Computer PSU To Power Car Subwoofers In Your House!

post #1 of 59
Thread Starter 
This guide is not up to date and is extremely dangerous, some things I did wrong. After doing this for two years i've picked up some tricks. I will remake this guide.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
MOLEX EXTENSION
EXTENSION CABLE (HEAVY DUTY)
SUBWOOFER IN ENCLOSURE WITH AMPLIFIER ATTACHED TO ENCLOSURE
SPEAKER CABLE (GET THE CORRECT GAUGE FOR WHAT YOUR AMP REQUIRES)
WIRE CUTTERS/STRIPPERS
2 WIRE NUTS
POWER SUPPLY( AS ANOTHER USER POINTED OUT YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE IT'S A 12V RAIL OR IF IT'S NOT TO ONLY USE ONE RAIL)
MOTHERBOARD OR SOUNDCARD THAT HAS A CS-OUT(Orange)


Step 1: Molex Connector
Cut the molex Cable so that you have a black and yellow wire sticking out, for those who don't know. Yellow wire is the 12v cable and the black one is ground. It is ideal you have something similar to what the picture below shows.
Step 2: Cutting Extension Cable
Cut both ends of the Extension Cable so that you have three cables sticking out on both ends. You will only be using two of the three cables. In my situation I had a Black, White, Green cable. I used green as my positive cable (Yellow on molex) and the white as my ground (Black on molex). The third cable is not being used. I cut the sleeving on the Green and White cables so that the wire was showing.
Step 3: Paring Cables
Take the yellow cable coming from the molex cable and connect it to the positive cable you choose in the last step (Mine was Green), put them together and tie a wire nut on it. Take the black cable coming from the molex connector and put it with the ground cable you choose in the last step (Mine is white) tie them together with a wire nut.

Milestone:
You have completed that end of the cable. We will now move onto prepping the amp.

Step 4: Bridging P.CON
P.Con is the device that is built into your stereo that tells the amp you have turned on your car. In order for your amp to turn on you need to bridge this. To do so you need to take a piece of speaker cable (16 Gauge will do) and connect it into P.CON and then the other side into Battery. If your amp is bigger then 1000 watts you will want two cables bridging it, if you don't you will burn the cable up. If less then 1000 watts you will be fine with one cable.
Step 5: Connecting Amp to PSU
Earlier we took the extension cable and connected it to the molex. Well now we need to take the opposite that doesn't have the molex and connect it to the amp. Keep in mind you want to keep this cable as short as possible, less distance ground has to travel the more durable your amp will be. To connect simply take the 12v cable (Green cable that connects to yellow on molex) and connect it into the battery, it might be a tight fit because you have the P.Con Bridging cables in it but it should fit. Then take the ground cable (Mine was white) and connect it into the Ground connector on the amp.

Milestone:
You have completed the preperation of the amp. We will now cover some different ways to connect the molex to the PSU and connecting the amp to the computer

Step 6: Connecting Molex to PSU (Choose one of the below methods)
Method 1: You will be powering the amp with a PSU that is running a computer.
Method 2: You have another PSU that is not in a computer and will be used for just the amp.

METHOD 1:
You can simply plug the molex connector that we made earlier into a free molex connector coming from the computers power supply. It's just like plugging in an accessory. This is a completely safe way to do it. If anything is not set up right on the amp the computer will not start up.
METHOD 2:
You will need to take the 20 pin (Might be 20+4 connector, if it is don't use the extra +4 for this) connector and on it will be a green cable, you will need to cut it and then stretch it around the top of the connector, then you will place it into a black wire (Black is ground). This will trick the power supply into thinking that it's plugged into a motherboard, making it start. It will not turn on if you don't do this step. Then plug Molex into provided molex on PSU.

Step 7:Connecting Sound Cable From Amp to Computer
Getting the sound from one place to another is simple, simply take that audio cable you bought and put the 3.5mm audio side into the CS-OUT on your sound card/motherboard (Pic 1) and then the Y split into the L and R on the amp (Pic 2)
Pic 1:
Pic 2:


TROUBLESHOOTING:
Problem: You went with Method 1, but when you start the computer up the fans start to move for less then a second and then turn off, not booting.
Answer: Your ground and battery inputs on the amp (Where you plugged in the extension cable mod) are touching, you need to make sure the cables are not touching each other. Once you fix that it will turn on correctly.

Problem: You choose Method 1. The computer turns off randomly.
Answer: This is because your power supply does not have enough juice for you to have it at that kind of volume, you need to scale it down for use.


PLEASE VIEW OTHER PEOPLES RESPONSES THEY ALL HAVE VALID POINTS! IF YOU ARE TRYING TO MOVE MORE THEN 500W YOU ARE GOING TO WANT THICKER WIRE! 16 GAUGE WONT BE ENOUGH!
Edited by Fremish - 11/17/14 at 2:41pm
post #2 of 59
Just some minor FYI..... on the extension cable, the black is always hot, white is the neutral and green is ground.
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Supernova
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post #3 of 59
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xD3aDPooLx View Post

Just some minor FYI..... on the extension cable, the black is always hot, white is the neutral and green is ground.

Thank you for the information. The cable has no practical use, you are using it for the thick 8 guage wiring that is within to transfer the power from power supply to amp.
post #4 of 59
That size wiring (all of it) is not sufficient for a 1000w amplifier. You need 4 gauge wire for power and ground to provide sufficient current. You also need 14 gauge minimum for speaker wire, 12 gauge would be better. PSU size in irrelevant to what size amp you hook up, the current on the rails is what you need to consider. I wouldn't try to run an amp larger than 350w off of a PC power supply.

*edit*
I mean not to offend or discredit you, but this is a potential fire hazard if you don't know what you're doing. If you draw too much current through a wire not able to support it, it can easily start a fire.
Edited by hermitmaster - 11/19/12 at 8:50pm
post #5 of 59
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hermitmaster View Post

That size wiring (all of it) is not sufficient for a 1000w amplifier. You need 4 gauge wire for power and ground to provide sufficient current. You also need 14 gauge minimum for speaker wire, 12 gauge would be better. PSU size in irrelevant to what size amp you hook up, the current on the rails is what you need to consider. I wouldn't try to run an amp larger than 350w off of a PC power supply.

You are correct that however is in the situation that you are in a car. I am running a 1000w Corsair HX to power my 1000w Kenwood amp, i've had this for about a year now and it's still going great. The rails are most the time always 12v if not 14v is the max that most amps can handle. Considering that your only using a molex connector takes out the factor of multiple rails. The wiring is plenty fine for the amp, I've never had an issue where it runs out of power or shuts off because their isn't enough.
post #6 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fremish View Post

You are correct that however is in the situation that you are in a car. I am running a 1000w Corsair HX to power my 1000w Kenwood amp, i've had this for about a year now and it's still going great. The rails are most the time always 12v if not 14v is the max that most amps can handle. Considering that your only using a molex connector takes out the factor of multiple rails. The wiring is plenty fine for the amp, I've never had an issue where it runs out of power or shuts off because their isn't enough.
Semantics, power works the same everywhere. You've had good luck, and that's great. If you were fully loading that amp at it's rated impedance, it would be going into protection or melting wires regularly.
post #7 of 59
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hermitmaster View Post

Semantics, power works the same everywhere. You've had good luck, and that's great. If you were fully loading that amp at it's rated impedance, it would be going into protection or melting wires regularly.

First of all, it bottoms out the amp to max often. If it has anything with luck then my buddies are fairly lucky too. Multiple people have a setup similar to mine. Worst case scenario put another wire, but it isn't needed it works perfectly fine, It works and it's stable.
post #8 of 59
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hermitmaster View Post

*edit*
I mean not to offend or discredit you, but this is a potential fire hazard if you don't know what you're doing. If you draw too much current through a wire not able to support it, it can easily start a fire.

Personally, If I thought that it would harm someones home or them I wouldn't have posted it. I have confidence that people use their brain and not do something that is considered dangerous. I have not encountered a report of an amp burning (let alone a house) from this method.
post #9 of 59
Just out of curiosity, what model is that amp?
post #10 of 59
Thank you for this guide.
    
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G.Skill Sniper Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 ... Crucial M550 512GB Western Digital Black 1TB Western Digital Black 2TB 
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