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Car Amplifier Hooked Up To Computer PSU To Power Car Subwoofers In Your House! - Page 6

post #51 of 59
EDIT

I misunderstood the above!

MY bad
Edited by givmedew - 7/2/13 at 2:13pm
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post #52 of 59
I really can't even tell if you are addressing me, cause just about all of your post seems to be directed at someone else.

I wasn't bragging about anything, nor did I post a picture of anything. I was stating an example of a subwoofer more than capable of high power, and an amp that pushes out said power.

I had multiple reasons why I necrod this thread. It came up on the first page of a search and needed to be corrected. Anyways, the guy who posted the actual picture necrod the thread when it was 1 year old or something.

This thread is full of misinformation. There is nothing wrong with using an ATX power supply to power a car audio amp, as long as the necessary precautions are taken.

All 12v lines should be fused with the appropriate amperage. Any exposed wires should be cleaned up. Never use a PSU incapable of delivering the amount of amperage draw required by the amplifier. Use come common sense when dealing with electrical.

If all of that is followed, you won't have any problems. Your friends 12 years ago are no comparison, as any PSU 12 years ago wasn't near the specifications of today's higher end PSUs.

Yes, obviously combining two different PSUs is a dump idea (even the same PSU model would be bad). I'm not recommending that or saying it's safe. A single PSU is fine.

And of course efficiency varies on amplifiers. However, anybody stating most amplifiers are only 10-20% (someone back in the beginning of the thread I believe) is pretty wrong. Both amplifiers I have are >85% @ 4 ohms. Yes, efficiency reduces with lest resistance, but that should be expected.

EDIT:

Ok, thank you for the edit. Glad you understand. I'm still gonna leave this post as I addressed a bit more of the misinformation in this thread anyways. Nothing against you.
Edited by hatrix216 - 7/2/13 at 2:30pm
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post #53 of 59
Those amps that you have that are 85% efficient are D-Class... the other person is correct about a/b class amplifiers although not for sure but on an a/b probably a little better than just 10-20 but my non digital class amplifiers doubled as heaters so it isn't necessarily incorrect... but nearly all sub amplifiers have been D-Class since the early 2000s. So you are correct in saying that the other person is incorrect.

12 years ago the my friends where using 12V PSUs. I think one person did try a computer PSU but yes it was horrible. Efficiency has gone up and so has the size of computer PSUs. Quality 12v dedicated PSUs still cost hundreds of dollars BUT they don't have to be as big as they used to because the amount of heat per watt of audio that the amplifier puts out is lower. If you look up 12v power supply and look at the ones that can put out 500-1000w they are multiple hundreds of dollars. They essentially have a non audio oriented crappy version of what an AC home amplifier would have in them. They can also only power 1 or 2 amplifiers. They do not use a high end toroidal transformer and the capacitors are not designed for such huge spikes.

Want to power car subwoofers in your home? Sell the car amp and buy a d-class subwoofer amplifier that is designed for home use. Want to use a car deck... go ahead a cheap $50 12V PSU will be fine in most cases.

Nothing wrong with putting a car subwoofer in a home. I use an Infinity Kappa Perfect DVQ that I have had for almost 10yrs. Only difference is it is hooked up to a rack mount B+K Amplifier not some crazy contraption.


Also I totaled misread your post and kind of mixed it in with someone else's and also for some reason I thought this thread was about the guy who was trying to join 2 power supplies together because it has been so long since I received an update about it. I totally forgot the actual OP wasn't even doing that.

I am sorry and I really didn't mean to offend you... I tried to ninja edit the post as fast as I could and I truly feel ashamed for misunderstanding what was being written so badly and then on top of it complained about necroing a post. I really thought you where necroing a thread started by the guy who tried to join 2 PSUs together and I was already like REALLY!

So I want to make it clear... I do not disagree with anything that YOU said...
Edited by givmedew - 7/2/13 at 9:33pm
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post #54 of 59
Yea as I said, all good man. I figured you had me mixed up with someone else in the thread.

And yes, I'm speaking strictly class D amplifiers for subwoofer use.

The easiest way to power any subwoofer in a home audio application is to simply by a good plate amp or rack mount amplifier (or even a non rack mount, but something meant to handle low ohm loads).

I have a Sundown Audio E8v3 in my room in a customer ported box. It's rated at 300 watts RMS, however my old plate amp took a **** so I now have to buy a new one. Great thing is the plate amp I want is $120 and produces exactly the 300 watts I need. Just haven't got the money to spend on it yet lol.

In the mean time I've temporarily used a Rockford Fosgate P500-2 amp to power it. Works as needed. And is my solution for powering my 18" at a party in a few days since I no longer have a working plate amp.

Doesn't get much cleaner than fitting a nice plate amp inside your sub box (accounting for any displacement of course) and plugging it right into the wall.
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post #55 of 59
The huge huge benefit to a plate amp over a rack mount is the plate amps usually have cross-overs and high level inputs... I am having a nightmare of a time with my UMC-200. The room correction testing plays full range audio out of the sub. Then it sets the x-over to 200HZ!!!! sounds like POOOH.

Then I can go in fix it and what not but still POOH...

Also there are some issues with playing 2CH sources and having the UMC-200 send audio to the subwoofer... which is why typically I hook the LFE to the subwoofer and then run high level inputs from the left and right. That way the sub gets the lows form the left and right and the LFE.

Unfortunately with a full range rack mount I have neither a x-over nor high level inputs. It ends up being fine in the end but a pain at first... the firmware update to the UMC-200 fixed it where the audio can be easily sent to the subwoofer in 2CH mode without turning on a high-pass x-over on the fronts.

I will end up buying a plate amp someday (when I rebuild the enclosure) but until then...

Promise not to laugh but this is my enclosure LOL smile.gif

If you wonder why on earth the sub is inverted believe me it needs to be. That enclosure was "re-purposed" and once you add the displacement of the subwoofer it is nowhere near big enough. When I make a new enclosure I will do a better job but I don't exactly have a workshop in my condo nor a basement!


Edited by givmedew - 7/2/13 at 11:18pm
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post #56 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by hatrix216 View Post

The SSD isn't even their best sub. The Fi SP4 can see 3000watts easy. No these aren't BS ratings, nor are the amps "peak" power (which is a nonsense term that is used by ****ty amp manufacturers).

For a second or two, sure. That Fi SP4 also has a beyond awful sensitivity rating. 86db! That's about .7-1% efficient. I challenge you to put 55V, 55A into that thing in an enclosure and see what happens over a minute or two. Where does that 2900+ watts of heat the speaker is generating go?

If you were to get 93db (which is decent, but still not great) speakers, you could make the same amount of sound with 750 watt, which a LOT more manageable.

So, I fail to understand all those ultra-low resistance speaker coils. Seems like a waste. Wait, no. Not 'seems.' Is a waste. I've personally shaken pictures off of walls with a 2x47W Pioneer SX-780. Right now my homemade LM1875 chipamp makes enough racket for me (been itchin' to build an LM3886 one, though).

Anyway, I wonder where the post that says that amplifiers are only 10-20% efficient is. I can't find it. Who said that? I think you might have been misreading one of my earlier posts where I said speakers are almost never more than 10% efficient.
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post #57 of 59
You know it is easier to simply buy a cheap power supplie on ebay? I got 1 for my amp on ebay for $20 (free shipping) It's just a simple Chinese power supplie but it runs my amp with no issues.
post #58 of 59
I applaud the attempt.

however, this seems to be an out of the way DIY. if you have the parts and don't need to put anything into it.. COOL..

coming from a career in Pro Audio, i know there are easier and safer ways of doing this. This is not something i would let
a friend use, at-least in the way it looks in the OP.

Build a dedicated box for this.. keep all the splices and wire contained. much safer that way.

I just don't understand the need for so much power for your bass. Low wattage Class A amp and a single middle sensitivity bass driver, or even a bridged 100W stereo referance amp, with a pair of 10 drivers.
is more then anyone should need by their computer. These configs will give you enough bass that if you use a mouse with DPI/cpi greater then 1800
you cursor never sits still.. flying all over your screen when the bass gets intense.
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post #59 of 59
Power like that is just absurd and pointless. Why purposely create a inefficient speaker? Something of only a few watts can deliver all of the sound you need, at much lower distortion (transparently). That kind of power is only useful for squeezing out every last bit of decibel. A sound system shouldn't even need 10 watts RMS per speaker. Why we have 100+ watts per channel, I don't know. A surround sound receiver could be the size of a modem or router, but instead, they're gigantic, bulky pieces of heat-generating crap.

You don't need to put a few between an ATX power supply and a subwoofer amplifier. The power supply has its own protections, and the amplifier has a fuse in it. You only fuse car wiring because it runs from the from battery to the back, so there is a chance the wire insulation could be pierced and cause a short. If you cause a short on a computer power supply, it will shut off. All you need to do is disconnect its power, by either unplugging it or turning off its switch, and it will work again.
 
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