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Xeon E5 2687 (2P) + TJ07 -- Looking For Some Advice/Help - Page 3

post #21 of 37
You may want to grab some Anti-kink coils, you'll be able to make some tighter turns in certain places if you need to (I needed them with the pump behind the rad in the base for example). Apart from that it looks good. You should probably wait for someone else to confirm that connector for the block does what you want. How are you going to mount the rad?
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post #22 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren9 View Post

You may want to grab some Anti-kink coils, you'll be able to make some tighter turns in certain places if you need to (I needed them with the pump behind the rad in the base for example). Apart from that it looks good. You should probably wait for someone else to confirm that connector for the block does what you want. How are you going to mount the rad?

Are there no provisions built into the TJ07 to mount a rad downstairs?

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post #23 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by kweechy View Post

Are there no provisions built into the TJ07 to mount a rad downstairs?
No, and you'll have to remove the drive cages that are down there. Hard drives in the bays and SSD's you can stick anywhere if your low on space. Best bet is probably a stand and you'd need to fix it to the base. Maybe something like This, I'm guessing they'll fit the AX also. There were some stands specifically for the TJ07 around over here but that was a while ago.
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post #24 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren9 View Post

No, and you'll have to remove the drive cages that are down there. Hard drives in the bays and SSD's you can stick anywhere if your low on space. Best bet is probably a stand and you'd need to fix it to the base. Maybe something like This, I'm guessing they'll fit the AX also. There were some stands specifically for the TJ07 around over here but that was a while ago.

Ah see this is why I come here, great info, thanks for the heads up.

 

The blurb on the site mentions EX480 so it should be ok!

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post #25 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by kweechy View Post

I understand the laws of physics, and yes that is absolutely correct in theoretical physics, but I think you'd have to also agree that we don't live in a perfect theoretical vacuum without convection, air, and all the rest of those science variables that we ignore for quick physics work. That swimming pool will lose tons of heat to the environment and a single kettle would probably never raise the temperature of it by more than 1 degree. Because it has so much mass, it has a lot of time to lose heat to the environment before the kettle can do its job.

Just from anecdotal experience: my loop had a tiny leak going on for a little while before I could fix it, and I probably lost around 50-100mL of liquid from the system (into paper towels luckily). The pump was still fully submerged at all times, but when I filled it back up to full, my CPU temps dropped by around 5C. Loops lose a lot of heat to the environment, and it would take exponentially more energy to raise the temperature of each additional mL of liquid you add.

Now...how much liquid you'd need before you see the results I have no idea.

Anyway sorry, didn't mean to turn this into a physics debate here.

Those temp changes were more than likely due to blocks or radiators not being full (rads & blocks that aren't full don't work as designed)- if I lost 100ml from my loop it'd be near empty (or maybe completely empty - I'm not sure it )! as a percentage of the whole, loops DON'T loose much heat to the environment - plastic tubing and plastic reservoirs are poor conductors of heat, and have rather poor surface area to volume ratios. radiators are both made of good conductors (Cu/Al) and have an awesome surface area to volume ratio.

Insofar as an ideal olympic (50x25m, 2500000L) swimming pool is concerned, it would take a 1500w heater 12 weeks to raise the temperature from 18ºC to 19ºC. so yes, a swimming pool would be "ideal" for a reservoir / heatsink. but it's not because of the reason that was originally stated - more mass doesn't mean the kettle can't heat it - 20L would only take under a minute per degree - so for non-supermassive systems, you eventually reach equilibrium regardless of the mass. 2 million liters is a few orders of magnitude apart from 20L.
Edited by u3b3rg33k - 11/22/12 at 9:49pm
 
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post #26 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by u3b3rg33k View Post


Those temp changes were more than likely due to blocks or radiators not being full (rads & blocks that aren't full don't work as designed)- if I lost 100ml from my loop it'd be near empty (or maybe completely empty - I'm not sure it )! as a percentage of the whole, loops DON'T loose much heat to the environment - plastic tubing and plastic reservoirs are poor conductors of heat, and have rather poor surface area to volume ratios. radiators are both made of good conductors (Cu/Al) and have an awesome surface area to volume ratio.
Insofar as an ideal olympic (50x25m, 2500000L) swimming pool is concerned, it would take a 1500w heater 12 weeks to raise the temperature from 18ºC to 19ºC. so yes, a swimming pool would be "ideal" for a reservoir / heatsink. but it's not because of the reason that was originally stated - more mass doesn't mean the kettle can't heat it - 20L would only take under a minute per degree - so for non-supermassive systems, you eventually reach equilibrium regardless of the mass. 2 million liters is a few orders of magnitude apart from 20L.

Hmm, I think everything was definitely still full...I should have added that my res and pump is the highest point in the loop, so they would have shown off how much liquid had leaked out. Usually when you bleed out a loop for the first time, you get tons of bubbles and churn, but this was just pure water.

 

When I touch parts of my loop though while my machine has been rendering for a day straight, there's some noticeable warmth coming off everything...that means it's getting some dissipation from conduction everywhere and not just the radiator, and there's some airflow in the case which means convection is going on in there as well. The reservoir gives off warmth all over too.

 

All I'm really saying is that in our world with 3 constant types of heat loss, a kettle even given two weeks wouldn't actually heat that pool by 1 degree, because the water's heat loss from conduction, convection, and radiation out paces the heat generated by the kettle. In a perfect physics problem without those factors, the water would get warmed over time. In the real world though, the more flowing liquid mass you can surround a heat source with, at some point it cannot warm the liquid any more due to C/C/R. There stops being a theoretical time per 1C, and it simply becomes impossible.

 

I'm not suggesting that a 250mm tall res makes much difference, only just that it makes some difference at all.

 

Anyway, I ordered all the stuff tonight and just wanted to thank you guys for being so helpful! Here's the final list:

 

 


Edited by kweechy - 11/23/12 at 1:26am
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post #27 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by kweechy View Post

Hmm, I think everything was definitely still full...I should have added that my res and pump is the highest point in the loop, so they would have shown off how much liquid had leaked out. Usually when you bleed out a loop for the first time, you get tons of bubbles and churn, but this was just pure water.

When I touch parts of my loop though while my machine has been rendering for a day straight, there's some noticeable warmth coming off everything...that means it's getting some dissipation from conduction everywhere and not just the radiator, and there's some airflow in the case which means convection is going on in there as well. The reservoir gives off warmth all over too.

All I'm really saying is that in our world with 3 constant types of heat loss, a kettle even given two weeks wouldn't actually heat that pool by 1 degree, because the water's heat loss from conduction, convection, and radiation out paces the heat generated by the kettle. In a perfect physics problem without those factors, the water would get warmed over time. In the real world though, the more flowing liquid mass you can surround a heat source with, at some point it cannot warm the liquid any more due to C/C/R. There stops being a theoretical time per 1C, and it simply becomes impossible.

I'm not suggesting that a 250mm tall res makes much difference, only just that it makes some difference at all.

Anyway, I ordered all the stuff tonight and just wanted to thank you guys for being so helpful! Here's the final list:


























Great list :0 Im glad i helped! Have fun rolleyes.gif
     
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post #28 of 37
Thread Starter 

Thanks Charleybwoy, the recommendations you and Darren9 made really helped me out a bunch, I owe you. I'll let you know how the build goes once everything gets here and I start.

 

Merci beaucoup!

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post #29 of 37
Thread Starter 

****, I didn't think about the nickel GPU block with the silver...how bad exactly is it, what happens? Should I find another kill method?

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post #30 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by kweechy View Post

Hmm, I think everything was definitely still full...I should have added that my res and pump is the highest point in the loop, so they would have shown off how much liquid had leaked out. Usually when you bleed out a loop for the first time, you get tons of bubbles and churn, but this was just pure water.

When I touch parts of my loop though while my machine has been rendering for a day straight, there's some noticeable warmth coming off everything...that means it's getting some dissipation from conduction everywhere and not just the radiator, and there's some airflow in the case which means convection is going on in there as well. The reservoir gives off warmth all over too.

All I'm really saying is that in our world with 3 constant types of heat loss, a kettle even given two weeks wouldn't actually heat that pool by 1 degree, because the water's heat loss from conduction, convection, and radiation out paces the heat generated by the kettle. In a perfect physics problem without those factors, the water would get warmed over time. In the real world though, the more flowing liquid mass you can surround a heat source with, at some point it cannot warm the liquid any more due to C/C/R. There stops being a theoretical time per 1C, and it simply becomes impossible.

I'm not suggesting that a 250mm tall res makes much difference, only just that it makes some difference at all.

Anyway, I ordered all the stuff tonight and just wanted to thank you guys for being so helpful! Here's the final list:

I'm not saying there is no actual heat dissipation from the loop - but it'd be like heating your house via what leaks out of your hot water heater - it's not enough to matter, especially compared to what the radiator does.

As for keeping stuff from growing in my loops, I use koolance's high performance coolant - mostly water, but a little bit of dye (or sans dye if you don't want dye), and just enough antifreeze and corrosion & bio inhibitors to get the job done. That saves your butt if you ever take it to a lan party in the winter and leave the rig in the car for a while, as well as keeping the inside from having funk appear. I've also used car antifreeze, but you don't want to run it at a 50/50 mix - it's much too thick (I ran 80/20 or 70/30 mix).
 
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