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[Official] Cooler Master HAF-XB Club! - Page 666

post #6651 of 10491
Quote:
Originally Posted by kpoeticg View Post

My top fit for a cpl months without cutting off the hill or the clips. It doesn't anymore tho since the weather got cold, seems like something expanded. I'm planning on cutting off all the clips and attaching hinges anyway tho

I'm also gonna try to make the top window a transparent LCD with a pulldown lighted backdrop for anybody that didn't already see me stick my foot in my mouth when I mentioned it in my build log biggrin.gif  

Edit: Also, love all the modding talk being revived in this thread. Please don't stop. Keep the modding convo's coming. thumb.gif

I was thinking hinges too smile.gif
post #6652 of 10491

I'm gonna hinge my front, top, and both side panels. Probly gonna use the acrylic hinges from Tap Plastics. I still got more planning to do. I got a cpl decisions to make about my side panels first

    
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4930k Rampage IV Black Edition w/EK Clean CSQ Block PowerColor 290x BF4 (2 More Coming) G Skill Trident X 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Silverstone Slotload Bluray Burner EK Supremacy Clean CSQ Alphacool XT45 360 XSPC EX360 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool ST30 240 3 x Phobya NB E-Loops (1600RPM) Alphacool UT60 120 (White Edition) 7 x Gentle Typhoon AP-00 (2150) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
3 x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 6 x Phobya G1/4 Inline Temp Sensor Coupler (2 P... Aquacomputer G1/4 High Flow Meter Swiftech MCP35x 
CoolingOSPowerCase
XSPC Photon 170 Reservoir Windows 7 + Linux Antec HCP-1300 Platinum CoolerMaster HAF XB (Modded) 
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Silverstone FP58 Thermaltake Max 5 Duo Phobya 6 x 16mm Vandal Switch Plate  6 x 16mm Vandal Switches (ModSmart & Lamptron) 
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post #6653 of 10491
Quote:
Originally Posted by TLSheff View Post

It may fit, but I wouldn't do it personally. I say that because the top fan will disrupt the front to back air flow, assuming it fits and doesn't clatter all over the top of the cooler with its blades. I would run the D14 and put in a window or make some mods as you see fit and run with it. Get a powerful rear exhaust and some powerful pull in front fans and you shouldn't have a need for anything more... unless you go water cooling.
even with the "glass" top edition? or should I still get the mesh one, even with no fan?

I will follow your advice and only put 2x8mm + 1x120 in the back, 2x140mm in front, and nothing on top

Thank you. thumb.gif
post #6654 of 10491
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jugurnot View Post

These are the clips, 3 on each side of the panel: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

After I put it in the c-strip that goes around the edge of my cut out, and mounted the window using a strong 2 sided adhesive strip, the edge of the window interefed with how the panel slides in and out. You will notice that the top rear of the case, where the thumb screws go, is almost flush with the top panel.

What I did was trim the clips down, so I only had to slide the panel 1/2 inch or so to take it off. That gave me just enough room before the edge of the acrylic hit that back part of the case.

I see what you meant now. I will have to keep that in mind for the future then.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jugurnot View Post

You may not have this issue, depending on how thick the acrylic is, and how you mount it. I used 1/8 inch thick acrylic.

I actually picked up my acrylic in 3/32 just so I could (hopefully) counter this problem and it totally worked. When I put the top on I can feel a tiny bit of resistance but then it just slides into place smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jugurnot View Post

Here are some more pictures. Im not very good at describing things haha

Unless your acrylic is razor thin, I dont see any room for it to pass over the back rail of the case. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

3/32nds isn't quite razor thin but damn close.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
You can see the gap between the edge of the acrylic and the top edge of the rear of the case. That is how far the panel can slide back to pull off.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Here you can see it is as far back as it will go. Normally that isnt enough to lift the panel off.

Top view Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


There is 1-3/16" from the rear lip to the edge of the acrylic.

All I did was use side cutters to trim about 1/8 of an inch off those clips I showed earlier, allowing the panel to travel less to be released.

My side panels had even LESS room to slide before the windows hit.

Here is a close up of what I did to them.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

My guess is that this is what you will need to do to your panel to make things work nicely. Unless you have come up with a different method of fitting the acrylic to the panel. Also im sorry for the long post with lots of pictures, I was just having a hard time picturing in mind how you got around this obstacle with a larger cut out than I have.

Yep, before I cut those rails out that is what I was stuck at as well but now my acrylic sits at 1/2 an inch from the edge.

You just might be right on that one but as of now it seems to be working just fine. I also plan to glue it in so that shouldn't cause any height problems. I think having the thinner piece of acrylic is what really helped. Because I tried a piece of 1/8th I had lying around and it just flat out would not work, just too thick.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaMbi2004 View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
My top fits without any modding to the "clips/interlocks/side rails" smile.gif but then again, I only cut off the "hill" and therefore have the extra free slighting room.
also.. cutting off the "side rails".. doesn't that reduce the stiffness of the panel? I would guess it would be easily bend/miss shape without those?

and another thing, most ppl tend to give the cutout some rounded corners.. you got straight 90 degree corners.. are you gonna paint the bare metal or u-channel? caurse it is not easy to route most u-channels around straight 90 degrees.
Cant wait to see the top finished smile.gif

Also, you are not clogging at all smile.gif we need new projects with loads of pics to keep ppl coming back (including me).

I like the idea of shortening the "clips" though.. I might have done that if I had the idea back then for my side panels.. I ended up just cutting the read clips to let me lift the backend out before the middle / front clips let go compleatly: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
You may also notice that I glued my windows to the U-channel instead of tape.. the reason is I think it looks better from the inside (looking through the top, you can see the side window.. and I find that this looks better than a bigger window + tape.
BUT it requires hard u-channels and a bit of skill / luck for the glue not to be visible on the glass (from the outside)

Cutting off the side rails definitely did reduce the rigidity but I also cut a massive hole in the center so I'm pretty sure that did not help either. This panel is on the top and I won't be hanging anything from it and once it is inserted it should be fine from warping. But when it's not on the case? Yikes is it floppy!

Yup, I'm not planning on using any u-channel whatsoever. I'm going to file and file until my cuts look perfect straight and then it will be painted. I just think a straight window cutout without u-channel looks incredibly clean.

I am also planning to glue mine so that won't run into any height issues with the side rails of the case. I completely agree that is looks better. In most cases it wouldn't matter but in this one (especially if you mod the side panels like you did) since you can see it from the outside it's important to keep everything as clean looking as possible.

By the way GaMbi, your side panels are on of the main reasons I want windows in mine too. You did a fantastic job thumb.gif
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post #6655 of 10491
Quote:
Originally Posted by joostflux View Post

Yup, I'm not planning on using any u-channel whatsoever. I'm going to file and file until my cuts look perfect straight and then it will be painted. I just think a straight window cutout without u-channel looks incredibly clean.

I am also planning to glue mine so that won't run into any height issues with the side rails of the case. I completely agree that is looks better. In most cases it wouldn't matter but in this one (especially if you mod the side panels like you did) since you can see it from the outside it's important to keep everything as clean looking as possible.

By the way GaMbi, your side panels are on of the main reasons I want windows in mine too. You did a fantastic job thumb.gif

I would agree with this too. I didn't have any c-strip around at first but mounted the window anyway, and it looked good. One of the guys on here bevelled the edge of the acrylic, so it sat flush in the cut out. Probably the best way to do it if you have the tools.

What type of glue did you use for the side panels? I plan on re-doing mine, as like you guys stated, it is visible from the top down.
post #6656 of 10491
Hi guys.
So glad to have found you :-)

My XB will be here soon, but I just realised I made a mistake when ordering the PSU.
I bought the Corsair HX 750, and I it is 200mm long, and case only supports 180mm.

Please, some words of wisdom would be appreciated confused.gif

Thanks.
et
post #6657 of 10491
Quote:
Originally Posted by e4et View Post

Hi guys.
So glad to have found you :-)

My XB will be here soon, but I just realised I made a mistake when ordering the PSU.
I bought the Corsair HX 750, and I it is 200mm long, and case only supports 180mm.

Please, some words of wisdom would be appreciated confused.gif

Thanks.
et

Where did you read that it is a 200mm PSU? I just checked and 7.09 in comes out to 180mm. So unless you got a different PSU you should be golden thumb.gif
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Master Mavis
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post #6658 of 10491
Quote:
Originally Posted by joostflux View Post

Where did you read that it is a 200mm PSU? I just checked and 7.09 in comes out to 180mm. So unless you got a different PSU you should be golden thumb.gif

Hi, thanks for the reply.

I read it on the Corsair website: http://www.corsair.com/en/power-supply-units/hx-series-power-supply-units/hx-series-hx750-power-supply-750-watt-80-plus-gold-certified-modular-psu.html
post #6659 of 10491
uh? The HX850 v2 is 150 mm (W) x 86 mm (H) x 180 mm (D)

Even if it should be a problem, extend the extender wink.gif
Edited by SortOfGrim - 1/9/14 at 1:06pm
post #6660 of 10491
Quote:
Originally Posted by e4et View Post

Hi guys.
So glad to have found you :-)

My XB will be here soon, but I just realised I made a mistake when ordering the PSU.
I bought the Corsair HX 750, and I it is 200mm long, and case only supports 180mm.

Please, some words of wisdom would be appreciated confused.gif

Thanks.
et

You can get the psu in no prob. Cable management might take some clever routing and/or minor modification to PCB for the x-dock bays. But I just measured, and you have about 240mm (+/- 3mm) before the psu would absolutely not fit.

So you have about 40mm for cable room, which I imagine is enough. I don't have a modular psu so I cant say for sure.
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