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car sub install, need advice.

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 
sorry if i have posted this in the wrong section. was the only place i thought it could go.

i know we have some car audio members. i need your help. i have the fallowing.

{two of them}
Brand: Dual Electronics
Model: SD12
Type: Subwoofer
Size: 12 inch
Impedance: 4 Ohms
Rating (Max): 500w
Rating (RMS): 175w
Features:
-Brushed Crome Polypropylene Cone
-Black Foam Surround
-Black Stamped Steel Basket
-One Year Warranty
-Vented 2" Voice Coil
-38.2 oz Magnet
-Non-Resonating Steel Frame

they are in a box set up for 1.5 Cu.Ft per speaker, with a 3 in. round by 5" deep port for each.


{one}
Dual XPE2700
Amplifier output 2-channel
Amplifier Output Details 50 Watt - 4 Ohm - 20 - 20000 Hz - THD 1.0 % - 14.4V DC - 2 channel(s) 75 Watt - 2 Ohm - 20 - 20000 Hz - THD 1.0 % - 14.4V DC - 2 channel(s) 150 Watt - 4 Ohm - 20 - 20000 Hz - THD 1.0 % - 14.4V DC - 1 channel(s)
Amplifier total output power 400 Watt

so i am wondering how i should hook both speakers up?

1. both speakers in bridged mode { both pos hooked together to pos on amp, and both neg hooked to neg of amp}
2. separate them, one left one right.
3. hook in bridged mode, pos off amp to pos of #1 speaker, neg from #1 to pos of #2, and neg #2 back to the amp.

if i do number 3 it drop's it down to 2 ohm though if i remember right? that would push the amp out of spec. i would like to stay in spec if i can on this but get the best sound out of it i can. i know it is a cheap setup, but it is in my 4x4 jeep so they will be getting jarred and beat a lot so i do not want to go high end.

any questions just ask and i will give what ever info i can.
post #2 of 21
no number 1 is parallel that drops resistance. Series adds resistance.

Your only option is one on each channel and that will be just fine.

Dont expect alot from this system either. 50watts to a sub almost isnt worth it.....
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post #3 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Stroker View Post

no number 1 is parallel that drops resistance. Series adds resistance.
Your only option is one on each channel and that will be just fine.
Dont expect alot from this system either. 50watts to a sub almost isnt worth it.....
This.
1 Return or sell the dual box and the second sub and just run one sub in a single ported box. The rockford fosgate website used to have a woofer wiring wizard that was easy to use.

2 Burn it all buy some real equipment.
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post #4 of 21
Best bet is to try arrangement one and two and just see what sounds better to you.

Also you want to make sure and do some research to tell if that amp can be bridged at two ohms it may be unstable/overheat.

According to sonicelectronix's page for the amp it can be bridged at 4 ohms but it does not give any info about at 2 ohms.

Good luck mate.
post #5 of 21
Thread Starter 
yeah i know. better stuff would be nicer, but i really do not want to take the chance of destroying it. but thank you for the help. i will try the suggestion and if i don't like it i will see about getting a different amp. when i go 4 wheelin i like to hit the mud holes and trails. so risky..
post #6 of 21
amp can only bridge @ 4ohms so with the setup you have you can only make either 8 or 2ohms. only thing you can do is run one off each chan, or you can wire them down and bridge it @ 2ohms but risk to the gear will go up and only push out 150 watts to both (75w each) suggest you either run one off each channel or only use one speaker in a ported box and bridge wire it for the 150 to the single speaker.

If it was me I would lose the 2nd one and go for the single bridged setup.
    
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post #7 of 21
DO NOT BRIDGE AT 2 OHM:mad:

I am speaking from experience. I tested on an older kenwood amp and it lasted about 1 hour.....
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post #8 of 21
Thread Starter 
will report later today when i get the chance. to much food to finish cooking and smoking in the smoker.
post #9 of 21
Thread Starter 
ok, i hook it up as option 2... each speaker on its own channel. i must say for a cheap build it actuly works great. i had to do a little adjusting in my crossover in the head unit and re set all my lvl's. but it hits really good for the price range, and can handle sustained bass without overheating. rattles my body and mirrors well..lol. but i think the head unit has a lot to do with it. running an alpine CVA-1006 unit with dvd, nav and 5 disc changer. going to pull it out for a cleaner install though. i just bought all my wire loom and tie's and connectors. thanks everyone that helped.
post #10 of 21
Thread Starter 
well i tried option 1 this morning.. wow.. played and hit hard, actually dims my lights good, lol.. but after about 30 min of constant playing at high volume the amp gets really warm, almost hot. i am going to make a aluminum cover to just fit over it and mount 2x 80mm fans to one side to blow cool air through it to keep it cool. i cant do that till Monday at work though so i can use the shear and break and router. thinking about doing a custom bandpass box with 1/2 lexan face and blue led's. that way it looks better and protects the speakers. i am also looking into some quick connects, so i can pull the box and amp out when i need to get something that fills the back of my jeep up.
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