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[Guide] Installing the Hydro Copper WateBlocks & Back-Plates on 680 Classifieds

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Hey guys!
I had a lot of fun installing these Hydro Copper and Back Plates . So much fun that I took a lot of Pictures and made an installation video. Enjoy!

This is a re-post from my current build log which can be found here:
http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?&m=1748657&mpage=1
http://c2cmods.com/showthread.php?361-Mustang-Cobra-build

You can either follow the Video (Recommended) or follow the easy step by step (Pictures included) guide below.

720p Installation Video (Created by me):

Installation Pictures:


The backside of the GTX 680


The GTX 680 Back-Plate. Evga really did a great job designing this.


The GTX 680 Classified Hydro Copper Water Block Setup. Comes with the Water Fittings, Water block, 14 small black screws, 4 small silver screws, 2 big silver screws, 1 bigger silver screw/nut/bolt and 2 water loop close fittings.


The Hydro Copper Flipped Backwards. (Remember to remove the plastic covering on the thermal pads)


The Water Block Fittings. These look really awesome and feel great. The quality of these are top notch.


Alright now to get into business. The holes I circled in yellow are the screws you need to take out to take off the housing on the GTX 680 classified. For the purpose of installing the hydro copper, these are the only screws you need to remove. I'm gonna remove the side screws on the housing itself to show others, in case they want to clean out the Fan, install another Fan, or do a completely different mod.


Side Screws on Housing


More side screws on the housing



Top Part of Housing Removed. This was done just by taking out the screws as I pointed above on the side of the housing.


This is what it looks like on the inner half of the housing with the top cover removed. You get to see the heat sink and the Fan. This is the part I was talking about earlier, If you need to clean the fan or heat sink of dust this is as far as you need to go.


This is the backside of the heat sink. This is the part that makes direct contact with the new Nvidia Kepler gpu. They did a really good job at applying there own thermal paste.


Here it is again with all the thermal paste removed. Just cleaning off everything since were going to be setting these aside just in-case we have to RMA any cards in the future. Do not throw away the housing, heatsinks or screws. You need these to reinstall on the RMA'd card so it's accepted via at EVGA.


Once you removed the screws underneath the GTX 680, we can finally remove the housing that's screwed down to the PCB itself.


Here's the board in all it's glory, everything is removed. It's NAKED!!!!!!


Evga really did a great job with the thermal application. It looks evenly spread on the gpu, no mess or bleeding on to the outside of the chip. If I didn't hold my own gripes on the TIM they use I would definitely leave it be. For any new individuals having doubts on cleaning the TIM or just dont want to open up the case and are worried. You have nothing to fear, Evga does this part exceptionally well and shows you why there Flagship card is the standard at Evga.


Alright were gonna be using a product which was released this year and has been yielding great reviews and results for others. The Prolimatech PK3 Thermal Paste.
Here's an introduction to there product from there website.
"Like two hot lovers, a heat sink and the processor want to make full contact. But microscopic imperfections in their craftsmanship create small gap for air. These gaps act as thermal insulators, inhibiting the transfer of thermal energy from your components. PK-3 thermal compound is made up of specially designed nano particles, engineered to correct these imperfections. The nano particles work by filling in the small air gaps and allowing for peak transfer of heat away from your components."

Features of the product:
High Thermal Conductivity
Low Thermal Resistance
Long-Term Stability
Long-Term Stability
Non-Corrosive
Non-Corrosive
No "burn-in" time required





Alright next step is to clean up that gpu of the thermal residue that was left. What I used are Q-Tips and Alcohol to remove the thermal paste. Use dry Q-Tips first to pick up as much residue that was left, usually you can get it nice and clean just by that. Since we want to make sure it's sparkly clean grab a Q-Tip and dip it into alcohol and start cleaning the chip itself and the edges of the chip. Once done, dry it up with another Q-tip and your ready to go.






Now that the gpu chip is prepped, we need to take the PK3 thermal paste and apply it. I use the pea size drop in the middle of the chip application. I dont like the X application or the spread it evenly across the chip. As you can see in the Installation video I made, I had to remove the casing after applying the thermal paste to get a screw I missed. The pressure method while using the cross over method for screwing the screws did a perfect job for spreading the paste evenly.


Once that's done, grab the bracket and the backplate and screw them in.


Next is to line up the Hydro Copper Water-Block evenly with the card and place it down. This is easily done since the 8pin and evbot ports have there own particular space on the water block. Line it up perfectly with that and your almost 99% golden. As a Reminder when plugging in the power cable for the Evga LED, do so gently but with enough force to make sure its connecting. When placing the Hydro copper down do not let the wire go outward. Let it lay inward so it's inside the card and not hanging outside.

Pro-Tip - When you have the 4 main screws tightened with the card and the back-plate, take this time to grab your 1 large silver screw with nut and washer. Place the Nut on the Chip side of the card. The hole is located near the DVI/HDMI bracket. This hole is to securly fasten down the bracket to the card. The next picture will show you were the hole is.







White Circle - The Bracket for all the ports. Grab your 1 large silver screw, but and washer. Screw this in prior to placing the Hydro Copper.

Yellow Circles - These require the 4 small silver screws. This enables the gpu bracket and the back plate to hold each other in place.

Red Circles - All these are screwed in by the remaining black screws.

Blue Screws - You are left with 2 large Silver screws. These go on last.



That's it. Once everything is screwed on you now have your back plate and hydro copper water blocks installed.
Here are some final pictures.









Hope this helps out anyone who is interested in installing a Hydro Copper Block & Back plate on there GTX 600 series cards.
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post #2 of 10
Nice guide you made there, I'll give you credit for the effort that took. thumb.gif
post #3 of 10
Nice guide I'd use it but there aren't any more waterblocks for sale! Check the petition I posted here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1331988/petition-to-bring-back-the-hydro-copper-waterblocks-for-gtx-680-and-690-vote-here
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post #4 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xNiNELiVES View Post

Nice guide I'd use it but there aren't any more waterblocks for sale! Check the petition I posted here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1331988/petition-to-bring-back-the-hydro-copper-waterblocks-for-gtx-680-and-690-vote-here

Yea I just noticed that too. It's unfortunate. Might have to buy the card with the water-block already installed or find a 3rd party with the water-blocks.
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post #5 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloudz00x View Post

Yea I just noticed that too. It's unfortunate. Might have to buy the card with the water-block already installed or find a 3rd party with the water-blocks.

They are discontinuing the preinstalled waterblock cards and other 3rd party companies will not create a waterblock for the 680 classified (its non reference so it wont fit).
Anyhow I have the bios file to flash to your cards so they will be running the same clocks as a stock hydro copper classified. A guy from EVGA sent them to me, it's basically for technicians to flash to the hydro copper cards before they're packaged.
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post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xNiNELiVES View Post

They are discontinuing the preinstalled waterblock cards and other 3rd party companies will not create a waterblock for the 680 classified (its non reference so it wont fit).
Anyhow I have the bios file to flash to your cards so they will be running the same clocks as a stock hydro copper classified. A guy from EVGA sent them to me, it's basically for technicians to flash to the hydro copper cards before they're packaged.

Ah nice, good job getting the bios. Only question that comes to mind is, with that bios is anything else modified. For example; All my cards have the evga bot port in them. You know if anything was done to the bios for the pre-installed waterblock cards besides upping the base clocks?
Also if you can, I would appreciate if you can link or upload that bios. So it can be downloaded in the thread. Thanks in advance.
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post #7 of 10
I'm almost %100 positive no other changes were made. I'll upload the file soon. I removed it off my computer but I have a flash drive. It's not even a Rom file which is actually pretty cool all you have to do is run update.exe, type "y" (for yes in command prompt), and you're good to go!

Edit: Lucky for you I had actually already uploaded it before lol: http://www.sendspace.com/file/lp03s0.
Steps:
1) Extract
2) Run EXE
3) Restart computer
4) Sign in though take note: When you boot up your screen will be set to default resolution, as if no driver is installed, just relax.
5) Once you've signed it windows will recognize your GPU again, let windows configure the drivers for you're card (it may take a little while). Once done restart.
6) After you restart again it should be all set, don't forget to run the PCI-E 3.0 Patch again because updating the bios resets this.
7) Check EVGA precision to confirm the clock changes. Or GPUZ
Edited by xNiNELiVES - 12/2/12 at 8:39am
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post #8 of 10
Smexy card and block! thumb.gif You shoulda left the protective film on while installing the backplate to prevent the smudges, fingerprints, etc. I did it and it came out nice. Just don't forget to remove it. biggrin.gif
post #9 of 10
Did the bios work?
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post #10 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by xNiNELiVES View Post

I'm almost %100 positive no other changes were made. I'll upload the file soon. I removed it off my computer but I have a flash drive. It's not even a Rom file which is actually pretty cool all you have to do is run update.exe, type "y" (for yes in command prompt), and you're good to go!

Edit: Lucky for you I had actually already uploaded it before lol: http://www.sendspace.com/file/lp03s0.
Steps:
1) Extract
2) Run EXE
3) Restart computer
4) Sign in though take note: When you boot up your screen will be set to default resolution, as if no driver is installed, just relax.
5) Once you've signed it windows will recognize your GPU again, let windows configure the drivers for you're card (it may take a little while). Once done restart.
6) After you restart again it should be all set, don't forget to run the PCI-E 3.0 Patch again because updating the bios resets this.
7) Check EVGA precision to confirm the clock changes. Or GPUZ


Is there anyway you can re-upload that bios file?, been looking everywhere for it can can't find it. Thankyou in advance.
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