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[Build Log] Ice Box - Page 3

post #21 of 29
Thread Starter 
Doing pretty good with the overclocking:

LLC: 2
CPU Offset: -0.140V
Turbo Voltage: +0.004
CPU Multiplier: 41
Speed: 4.1GHz
Core Voltage in Prime95: 1.200V
Idle Voltage: 0.864V


Ran lastnight and was stable @ 1.208V for 6 hours of a blend. So I'm trying 1.200V today.
The odd thing that I've noticed is with the memory. I've got the memory at 1.375V but when I lower the memory clock to < 1.360V it will disable my internet... I'm not sure if it has something to do with other voltages on auto being messed up but its a weird bug. I didn't run prime at those voltages because its kinda pointless if I can't get internet... So for now I'll stick to 1.375V on the memory. Once I know my overclock is stable I'll see if 4.2Ghz is stable @ that voltage, which I highly doubt it. then I'll start working on lowering the timings on the memory. I don't really want to go any higher on the voltage for the CPU since its a mini-ITX case and the heat could potentially become an issue. Especially with the VRMs, I want to keep those puppies nice and cool and make them last!

Edited by Cakewalk_S - 12/11/12 at 2:35pm
post #22 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakewalk_S View Post

Doing pretty good with the overclocking:
LLC: 2
CPU Offset: -0.140V
Turbo Voltage: +0.004
CPU Multiplier: 41
Speed: 4.1GHz
Core Voltage in Prime95: 1.200V
Idle Voltage: 0.864V
Ran lastnight and was stable @ 1.208V for 6 hours of a blend. So I'm trying 1.200V today.
The odd thing that I've noticed is with the memory. I've got the memory at 1.375V but when I lower the memory clock to < 1.360V it will disable my internet... I'm not sure if it has something to do with other voltages on auto being messed up but its a weird bug. I didn't run prime at those voltages because its kinda pointless if I can't get internet... So for now I'll stick to 1.375V on the memory. Once I know my overclock is stable I'll see if 4.2Ghz is stable @ that voltage, which I highly doubt it. then I'll start working on lowering the timings on the memory. I don't really want to go any higher on the voltage for the CPU since its a mini-ITX case and the heat could potentially become an issue. Especially with the VRMs, I want to keep those puppies nice and cool and make them last!

Looking pretty good man! Not bad at all for a mini build!
post #23 of 29
Thread Starter 
Added some carbon fiber vinyl tonight. I think I'll add some more tomorrow...still could use some Di-NoC bling...

post #24 of 29
Looking slick man!
post #25 of 29
Cake do you have dual CLC's in there? I can't really tell from the pictures. I am thinking of doing a pair of CLC's, I knew there had to be someone out there doing this. Looks Great! biggrin.gif
    
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post #26 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by scotthulbs View Post

Cake do you have dual CLC's in there? I can't really tell from the pictures. I am thinking of doing a pair of CLC's, I knew there had to be someone out there doing this. Looks Great! biggrin.gif

Yes, 1 CLC for the CPU, and 1 for the GTX670. I'm however, a bit worried now that I used just distilled water in my modded loop for the GPU...its an aluminum rad and the block is copper...so I'm worried I'll get corrosion in the next year or two...


So this case build is far from over. Now I'm working on modding each cable from my PSU. I'm figuring now that Haswell won't be out till mid summer 2013 and my 2500k and 670 will last quite some time. I'm modding the length of the 12v accessory cable to be extremely short and I only need 1 connector to it. I cut the wires and made just 1 connection and its very short. Then I'll solder the wires and heatshrink them. I'll do the same with the Sata power cables. I figure, if I remove all the excess cables I need, I might even be able to add a fan controller I use to the front of the case or just leave it simple as it is. I should be clearing up a ton of space in the case by shortening the accessory cables. If I like it and I do a good job, I'll probably mod the 12v power cables to the GPU and then maybe attempt to shorten the 24Pin cable too! There's no sense to have a 20" 24pin cable when the motherboard is 4" away....waste of space. I'll obviously leave some room for possibly sliding out the PSU if needed but I think if I do all my connections good with some good heatshrink and solder, I should be completely fine.
post #27 of 29
can you teach me how you install/mount the thermaltake into your gpu ?
the mofset and vram chips not cooled there ?
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post #28 of 29
How the hell did you squeeze that 670 in there ?biggrin.gif
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post #29 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakewalk_S View Post

Yes, 1 CLC for the CPU, and 1 for the GTX670. I'm however, a bit worried now that I used just distilled water in my modded loop for the GPU...its an aluminum rad and the block is copper...so I'm worried I'll get corrosion in the next year or two...


So this case build is far from over. Now I'm working on modding each cable from my PSU. I'm figuring now that Haswell won't be out till mid summer 2013 and my 2500k and 670 will last quite some time. I'm modding the length of the 12v accessory cable to be extremely short and I only need 1 connector to it. I cut the wires and made just 1 connection and its very short. Then I'll solder the wires and heatshrink them. I'll do the same with the Sata power cables. I figure, if I remove all the excess cables I need, I might even be able to add a fan controller I use to the front of the case or just leave it simple as it is. I should be clearing up a ton of space in the case by shortening the accessory cables. If I like it and I do a good job, I'll probably mod the 12v power cables to the GPU and then maybe attempt to shorten the 24Pin cable too! There's no sense to have a 20" 24pin cable when the motherboard is 4" away....waste of space. I'll obviously leave some room for possibly sliding out the PSU if needed but I think if I do all my connections good with some good heatshrink and solder, I should be completely fine.

you shouldnt use distiled water for mixed loop, its a recipe for disaster .

what you should use is (what they used at factory) is a glycol based liquid. IIRC the stock stuff is propylene glycol. so what you can use is a PREMIXED glycol based radiator coolant for motor vehicles.

its greenish in colour so you wont have to die it else tough luck as dies will gunk up the block really bad and it looks decent with clear 6mm tubes.

i threw a coil of kill silver in it for added killing protection
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