ASUS MAXIMUS V EXTREME [BUILD LOG], Guide & Case Modification by GUNNY1966 Completed 12/26/12 - CURRENTLY UP-DATING as of 11/15/2013
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I am currently updating this log using the reply option in the thread so if there is something your interested in seeing, glance thru each of the pages as the up-dates are spread out in the REPLY areas as posting to the original thread was extremely difficult! Thank You
Hello OverClockers & Enthusiast & First Time Builders!
I decided to start a detailed enthusiast [BUILD LOG] / GUIDE of a new ASUS MAXIMUS V EXTREME here in the forums so as to ask questions & possibly learn some things for myself & in the process help others through describing in detail the build as I go along. I would like to ask those WHOM PARTICIPATE in this thread to provide information that one can verify with ease, I.E. web links / pictures ect. ect. as I AM NOT the smartest nor most intelligent ][/B]person in the world & I would like to share this with others! I've found there are many out there much like myself whom simply want to learn more. They as well as I have find obstacles at every corner & are unable to be successful due to the lack of examples, ie. unfinished build logs & verified or even unverified product information given!
I will provide DETAILED information, of each of my components & web links & cost associated so as to better inform those interested. I will also continually add & give updates as I'm sure I will be here serveral times reviewing & posting explanations as well as explaining & providing examples! I want this build to be exciting as possible yet I want others to give their EXPERTISE & in return this will help myself & others have a successful build. PLEASE don't troll or make comments that are NOT verified! If you do see a comment that you know is NOT corrected or the information is given has been altered or incorrect, send me a pm or email me & I will ask the moderator to remove it. If you see ANY mistakes I've made be sure to mention them in your comment & explain it, ie. verify your comment with explanation/examples/pictures/links ect. ect.. I assure you I'm human & make mistakes every day. With all that being said, I appreciate your participation!
The purpose of this build is for gaming, some video rendering, some audio rendering & basic computer use. I entered this build asking myself what may be some of the needs & how will I set it up, ie. components/hardware/wire management, RAID 0,1,5, ect. ect.. I love to game & play BFBCo II & BF3 & this build should do very well at all forementioned. If configured to do so, these are the issues of which I need the views & expertise of others I will be the one to decide what will be the outcome in the end as everyone has different opinions & views. Each of the components selected have capabilities to only go so far, overclocking isn't everything, dependability & stability are other factors to be consider. I expect this build to exceed my expectations in various ways. Prior to further comments, WELCOME into my [BUILD] / GUIDE! For those whom participate, your dilligence/expertice/knowledge is GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Any comments or concerns you might add will be taken respectfully! THANK YOU!
There are servereal ways one can achieve the proper items needed to make a build & the following links assist one in doing so!
This link will allow one to use the RigBuilder that is here on OCN:
This is a guide of how touse RigBuilder:
NewEgg TV Is another favorite some use to view various different components, they are simply found by searching NewEgg TV on the YouTube Channel:
Part 1 - : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPIXAtNGGCw
Part 2 - : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_56kyib-Ls
Part 3 - : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxaVBsXEiok
This can add knowledge & give one some more insight into building.
***** H E L P F U L T I P *****
NEVER throw ANY of your boxes away as you might possibly need them for RMA's ( Return Merchandise Agreement ) or rebates & possibly you may by accident leave something as small as a screw or something in one of the boxes. For future reference, you may one day wish to sell your hardware in the boxes it came in therefore allowing the boxing process & impressment upon the person whom may wish to purchase it from you. Another thing is if you remain well organized through out your build, the issues of misplacement or damage is reduced significantly! Keeping your build area clean of dirt unused hardware is VERY beneficial to your success & protects your investment.
Chipset - Intel
Socket - 1155
Series - Z77
The below selected items are items I selected for this system build & may not reflect requirements or desires from what you may choose. All selected items in this list are either VERIFIED compatable via QVL ( Qualified Vendors List ) or they can be modified thru various ways to meet requirements. Any changes made can result in incompatability issues therefore ALWAYS use the QVL list supplied by the manufacturer of the components you select. Always double check your selected components prior to installation as it could possibly damage any of the components if they are not compatable. Never use the advice of one single individual, use all available resources to aquire the exact answer. Getting the wrong answer or suggestion can cost you in many different ways. I had to say this as I myself have made this error & it cost me M$ O$ N$ E $ Y$! Use the manufacturers suggestions & product information provided is the best advice!
QVL linked SPECIFICALLY to the motherboard I have selected:
This included the OS ( Operating System ) / DRAM ( Memory ) / CPU ( Central Processing Unit ). The Manufacturer of your motherboard may differ but most all manufacturer's have a QVL listed somewhere in their perspective web site. Make sure you familarize yourself with them prior to any purchase as the information they publish is vital to your successful completion of the build.
***** H E L P F U L T I P *****
One thing I can assure you is it's vitally beneficial ( especially if your vision is weak ) to ANY build is to print out a COMPLETE MANUAL that is up to date & make sure it is specific to your motherboard! Also make sure you check the manufacturer's web site as hardware changes all the time & you can either downgrade or upgrade components based off of what information is given & how old it is. Also components vary in many ways & this allows you the opportunity to review needed components & specifications so as to not make the mistake of incompatibility as well as offers assistance through out your build. As you go through the build it is beneficial to sometimes review & make yourself familiar with your various types of components & how you will use them & you can take notes to have information you may need later. For this build I have two available COMPLETE printed manuals. One I keep as a build reference during the build log & another of which I keep all of the components selected, purchase reciepts, warranty information, user guides, manuals & any other various types of literature I choose to print regarding settings ect. ect.! Some may view this as overkill but I can tell you from experience this is a GREAT ASSET unlike going to war without a gun per say.
(1) Case - CoolerMaster HAFX 942 ( Red Edition)
WHY: I purchased one when I did my last build & it is a AWESOME case & allows for any expansion & has EXCELLET cooling capabilities & is well designed & easy to keep clean & LOTS of room.
It lacks only that it doesn't come with the fans needed for my particular build which is fine but unless you read, your in for a shock when you figure it out. Depending on your build & the way you spec it out, you may choose differently. Below I have listed the three fans needed to complete the case in reguard to my system specs.
NOTE: CoolerMaster has CHANGED the Case Fans! IF you intend to go with the LED lighted color fans, you will need to do get following, IF YOU SPEC'ING OUT YOUR CASE JUST LIKE I AM!
X 3 - 200 mm RED or BLUE LED lighted fans
X 1 - 140 mm RED or BLUE LED lighted fans.
X 1 - 120 mm RED or BLUE LED lighted fans.
X 1 - 80mm RED or BLUE LED lighted Fans.
Read the following information below
**********NOTE**********: I'm also going to be doing some light case moding, mostly painting & such & I will add some tips ( how too's/EXAMPLES ) when I get the case ready. I'm not going to go into detail until the case is finished as It takes time to get it preped & finished. The cost of the materials will be added to the total as soon as all the items are either used or returned giving you the grand total at the completion of the build.The current value is set but is subject to change due to the case modification!
(*) items that DID NOT come with the components I selected.
(*)additional 200mm fan
cost: $21.99 each ( X 3 ) = $65.97
WHY: Because the case only comes with one fan mounted in the top & my build will require 3, Red LED lighted Fans
refer to page 14 in the case manual. detail is noted under option # 2 as shown in the picture below. The fans that come with the case in the top & side are NOT LED lighted fans, they are simple black fans!
(*) additional 140 mm fan ( Red )
WHY: This fan is the rear fan that goes into the top. It will draw heat from your GPU's & Motherboard.
(*) additional 120mm fan ( Red )
WHY: Because the case GPU cooling Duct does not come with a 120mm fan which some may view it as an option however I consider it essiential on GPU cards that are NOT watercooled.
(*) additional 80mm fan ( Red ) ( OPTIONAL )
***** NOTE : IMPORTANT ***** -
( REQUIRES MODIFICATION TO THE GPU SUPPORT BRACKET )
reference: CoolerMaster HAFX 942 - page 11 ( GPU Cooling with air )
NOTE: In my last case I completely removed the pop rivets & the metal screen as it is useless & blocks the air flow from the side 200mm fan. Adding this fan in my opinion is really not necessary however I did it by simply using zip ties & attaching it through the holes in the fan corners. I will give a detailed picture when I get more into the build.
(*) additional 24 pin - One foot extension power Cable ( OPTIONAL )
WHY: The case is a full sized case & this will allow you to have pleanty of length to achieve cable management that is desireable. Also, the Motherboard 24 pin connection is located as most are but faces out away from the board therefore a extension cable gives you more flexable room to adjust your wire management.
(*) additional 8 pin - 8 inch 8 pin extension power cable ( OPTIONAL )
WNY: Due to the case being a full case, this allows for better cable management.
(*) additional 4 pin - 8 inch extension power cable ( OPTIONAL )
( 2 )
Motherboard - ASUS MAXIMUS V EXTREMElink: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131858
WHY: I wanted to build a 1155 socket that wasn't a dead end & allow for future expansion as well & offer myself the ability to learn more of the technical issues.
(*) X 3 - Temp Sensor Wires - refer to chapter 1 page 1-50 item description # 13
cost: $4.95 X 3 or $14.85
(3) Processor Chip - Intel Core i7-3770k ivy Bridge
WHY: Was compatable & within budget & offers 22nm technology.
(4) System Memory - Corsair Dominator Platinum - 1866 (16 GB)
WHY: Is compatable & offered overclocking ability & looks great.
(5) Graphics Cards # 1 - ( GPU ) EVGA GTX 670 Superclocked
WHY: I use only EVGA Graphics Cards for various reasons & have had EXCELLENT luck with them & they were on sale & within my budget.
(6) Graphics Cards # 2 - ( GPU ) EVGA GTX 670 Superclocked
WHY: I use only EVGA Graphics Cards ( personal preference ) for various reasons & have had EXCELLENT luck with them & they were on sale & within my budget & offered the performace I wanted.
( same as list #5 as there will be 2 set up in SLI ),( Scalable Link Interface )
(7) CPU Cooler - Corsair Hydro H100i
WHY: Meets all my cooling needs & is sufficent for a overclock & mostly with budget.
(8) Power Supply - CoolerMaster 1200W Pro Gold
WHY: I based my selection from benchmarks/reviews & cost & because it was modular.
(9) Hard Drive # 1 - Western Digital VelociRaptor 500 GB 10000 RPM
WHY: I based my selection from benchmarks/reviews & cost.
(10) Hard Drive # 2 - Western Digital WD Black 1TB 7200 RPM
WHY: I caught it on sale at the time & it will serve well to place data on ( storage ).
(11) Solid State Drive # 1 - ( SSD ) - OCZ Vertex 4, 256 GB
WHY: I currently own 6 other OCZ SSD's & had trouble with 1 & OCZ's customer service is EXCELLENT.
(12) Solid State Drive # 2 - ( SSD ) - OCZ Vertex 4, 256 GB
WHY: I currently own 6 other OCZ SSD's & had trouble with 1 & OCZ's customer service is EXCELLENT.
( same as #11 as there are 2 SSD's used )
Firmware Update Inforamtion can be found here:
(13) Sound Card - Creative Sound Blaster R3con3D
WHY: Onboard ( Motherboard ) Sound can use up CPU Bandwidth & resources that a Sound Card can easialy resolve & it also has all the bells & whistles for THX Dolby yet is only 5.1 capable where as the onboard is 7.1, refer to page xi in the manual.
(14) Fan Controller - AeroCool Touch 2100
WHY: It offers the ability to monitor & control 5 sets of fan temperatures up to 25W per fan channel & has 2-USB3.0 & Audio/Mic, LCD ( Liquid Crystal Display ).
NOTE: One can use the Fan Xpert as described in the manual in chapter 4 page 28 without having this item.
(15) Monitor - ASUS 27' 1ms Report Rate HDMI LED
WHY: Met budget requirements & it also has good reviews & I don't like glare so the flat screen no gloss is my preference.
* In reguards to the monitor the REPORT RATE is in my opinion VITALLY important to gamers & possibly video editors!
(16) DVD Burner - ASUS 24X
WHY: Great Reviews & I've never had one go bad yet & it meets my needs.
(17) DVD Player - ASUS Black
WHY: Great Reviews & once again I have never had one go bad.
(18) Keyboard - Logitec G510 with LCD
WHY: I own one & like the LCD feature & the macro's for the gaming I do & have yet to have any trouble with the performance of it.
(19) Mouse - Logitec G9X
cost $ 89.99
WHY: I own one & like the feel, it fits my hand & it meets my needs.
(20) Thermal Compound - Prolimatech PRO PK3
WHY: I will remove the compound on the H100i as I've read articles on how thermal compound can effect your CPU's cooling & the stock paste may seem to be sufficient yet I don't trust it! In reguards to sealed cooling systems & stock cooling. It may sound silly but if you do some reasearch you'll find during benchmark test, systems have different results in the degrees due to thermal compounds therefore I'm willing to make sure I know it is good yet most are very similar.
( OS ) OEM Windows 64BIT - Windows 7
WHY: Because it will get me everything I need for now & other software selections can come later after the build has been completed & the system is stable.
The total cost for this build is: $4,051.22 ( USD ) United States Dollars
* It does NOT include the following items:
( 1 ) Gaming Mouse Pad - estimated cost $20.00
( 2 ) Gaming Head Set - 40 to ?
( 3 ) Zip Ties for cable management - estimated cost $8.00
( 4 ) Cables for various installation.
( 5 ) CD's for making Recovery Disk.
( 6 ) Case Lights -waiting to see the end result & compare other builds & lighting set-up!
( 7 ) Paint, sanding materials for the case Modification!
( 8 ) Misc. Supplies, tape, ties ect.ect.
I WILL EDIT THIS AS I AQUIRE MORE SUPPLIES!
Overall for the System Performance it should be a REALLY GREAT System with a whole lot of extras & will last in the gaming world for quite a long time.
Price Wise for those of you whom have purchased pre-built systems, this may come as a shock however that is to be expected!
This concludes STEP 1 of the [BUILD LOG] & the complete list of components I purchased for my build. Step Two will contain the case modding, painting & sanding.
CASE MODING & PAINTING
So I have decided on the painting & case moding colors & such. It took some considerable thought to come up with the scheme & the Name of which the daughter & wife thought was parrell to the motherboard . The colors I will be using are unique yet vibrant & will give the case a much brighter effect as well. Here are some pics of the case dissassembled yet not completely as I have decide not to paint the inside.
Here are the Colors:
( 1 ) Dupli-Color Sandable Primer:
( 2 ) Dupli-Color Chrome:
( 3 ) Dupli-Color Red Metal Specks:
( 4 ) Dupli-Color Blue:
( 5 ) Dupli-Color Clear Effex:
The Effex is a top-coat finish that allows the Metal Flakes to really be vibrant over the top of the selected colors. It can be sanded for a added finish & make more of a mirror type finish.
The Case & all the items I've selected to paint. :
Just the case:
The Top Cover without the metal fan grates & dust filter screens which will be blue & red metallic flake :
The Front Cover ( Plastic ) which will also be blue & red metallic flake : [IMG ALT=""]
All the Metal fan screens ( Metal ) which will all be Chrome with metallic flake:
The Front Panel Center plastic which will be metallic flake blue:
The Left Side cover whcih will be a red metallic flake:
The right side cover which will be a red metallic flake:
The Case it's self : the Outer edges will be in a chrome like metallic flake gloss finish:
Using Sandable Primer is benificial to success when using spray paint out of cans however a air brush is another excellent way to paint with detail. I use Dupli-Color Sandable Primer: http://www.duplicolor.com/products/sandablePrimer/ in white so I can get a mirror finish by applying as many coats as it will take to get a non-wave looking base prior to the Chrome of which will have a gloss metallic finish when complete. It may require a light 600 or 8000 sanding to make it sharp. Some say to use black sandable primer but it makes little to no difference when your going to use a metallic flake top-coat to finish it!
Here is a pic of the initial primer coats. I plan on taking my time due to the fact I WANT IT PERFECT! :
Here is 2 pic's of the first coat of Chrome! Pretty impressive so far but there is still more to do!
( 1 ) Close Up of Chrome paint! :
( 2 ) View from a distance! :
Here is a pic of the last coat of Chrome, after this coat dries for 30-45 minuets, I will then start the first coat of the Effex. :
This is the First Coat of the Adhesion Promoter on the PSU Cover. :
It is kind of trickey to work with as the temperature & humidity has to be good for it to bond with the plastic!
Okay, here is the defining moment we've been waiting for! I sprayed the first coat of Effex on the Chrome. Using a magnifing glass I took this pic, IT LOOKS TOTALLY AWESOME so far but I still have 2 coats to go!
Finally the Effex is reallly starting to show! This pic is bare without any magnification unlike the last pic & the surface seems to be brighter! :
Six hours later I awake & check out the finished product. I had only one small area that needed some touch-up & took care of that & it's back to sanding on other items!
Here are the fan covers ( grates ) after the first coat of Effex, I believe they will need to be chrome as the Effex has made them dull. I will re-paint over the Effex & see what that will produce, after it dries for an hour or so. No runs & a good finished surface is the goal!
Personally I think they look much better chrome but I had to throw a coat on to test it!
The fan GPU duct is coming along well but will take longer due to the plastic surface is slower to paint on. The slower you paint it, the better the result! I put two coats of Adhesion Promoter on it due to it is some what flexable.
CASE EDGES COMPLETE:
After much anticipation, I finally got the case edges completed! I sprayed four coats of clear to make sure there would be sufficient durability. I took this pic close up but honestly it does it little to no justice as it is PERFECT & is exactly the finish I was hopeing for!
I did get the last coat of chrome on the fan grates & they as well seem to be coming along very well & look much better chrome! Bad thing is, I ran out of Chrome & forgot all about the GPU support bracket! Off to get one more can of Chrome!
The Support bracket is now finished:
Poor pics due to the movement others will give it justice.
The CPU Cooler duct is also now finished:
It looks grey but it really is because of the poor lighting. The Clear coat also dims the Effex so if your going to use Effex, get more than you think you might need! Inside the case it will be bright enough to bring out the colors.
I also shot the first coat of primer on the front panel, Front Fans screen backplate & the entire top cover.
Front Bay Backing Plate:
Front Cover Plate:
Front Cover ( Removeable ) Lower Air Filter plate:
There is alot of sanding to do on these because they are mostly all "A" surfaces. I'm going to do something hard & honestly it is going to be a major challenge. I'm going to do some tapeing then post a pic when I get it ready to shoot the first coat & describe it!
Now, while paint is drying on the other items I'm going to go back & complete the GPU Support Bracket.
MODING THE GPU SUPPORT BRACKET FOR A 80mm FAN
Remember in the items list I stated ( 1 OPTIONAL) 80 mm fan & it requires modification to the bracket!
Here are the tools used & pic's. Descriptions are within the pic's!
Now after that I decided to go ahead & finish the GPU Cooling Duct & install the fan. It really came out better than expected but still looks awesome!
While waiting for items to finish drying, I decide to go ahead & install the filter screen that goes below the PSU ( Power Supply Unit ), no big deal!
Then I got a wild hair & decide WOW, I got another idea! Check this out & tell me what ya think! I went to the manufacturere's web site & this product is foil & plastic coated. I took super glue & ran strips down the edges to make sure if it did get hot enough to melt the plastic coating, the foil wouldn't get up against the back of the motherboard! Then I decide to check the area where the motherboard rest in relation of the case & the standoffs. I then measured & installed all that you see! LOOKS SICK!
Can you say reflection?
Can you say SWEET?
Now, Back to the painting of the top, Front & Lower intake shields! After sanding for the better half of the day as well as do other things, I finally got the first coat of blue sprayed!
Front Lower Intake Shield:
Top Cover Shield:
Front Cover Shield:
I went ahead & sprayed two front cover blanks just in case I decide to do something different , but I have other plans!
In order to give you a better idea of the beautiful color blue I selected, I took this pic with a magnifying glass! Isn't it
Back to more sanding!
NO MORE SANDING! :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
The Left & Right side panels are now ready to spray on a nice thin coat of primer.
TIP: Using a can of Brake Parts Cleaner from your local auto parts store is just as effective as using acetone without the dangers associated. WEAR eye protection & do NOT spray it on your skin or use it to clean plastic parts as it will eat/burn the plastic! On metal surfaces, use just enough to show a damp surface & wipe it off with a paper towel rather quickly.
Left Side Panel:
Right Side Panel:
Now to go spray on another coat of blue!
Now I'm going to show you the steps to dissassemble them & paint the face plates & the doors to match your case front! Remember these are plastic so don't get to harsh when removing the door fronts or front panels.
Top Panel assembly / Dissassembly:
The panel is really easy to dissassemble,. In the manual that comes with the case it describes how to remove the panels .I will simply edit the pic's to give you a better idea. Removing the buttons & the wires is easy but remember not to store them where they can get damaged.
Side Panels Primer to finish
From the factory, the panels have a very durable paint coating on them. It took me almost 1 to 2 hours of sanding, ( by hand ) to get them down to the desired level. I used 600 grit to take off the rough then switched to 900 to remove the scratches & then to 1500 to fine sand & after that I did a 2000 wet sand to bring to a finish!I'm using sandable primer in case I feel the texture is too rough & I want a mirror /glass like finish so I might have to go back & hit them again with maybe 1500 to re-smooth the finish prior to any painting. Metalic Flake paint looks much better if you take the time to observe the finish of the primer coat, the smoother the better. Some paints are simply junk & the texture of the primer coat has alot to do with the finish coat when spraying metalic flake.
The Panels: LEFT
After Sanding: LEFT
After 1st coat of sandable primer: LEFT
After the primer dries for roughly 30-45 minuets, it's time to check them over, I found one little spot on the left side panel that was not to my likeing so I'm going to take a pic then sand it down & shoot it again with a light coat to see if it improves.
Now that I've solved that little issue, I'm going to wait & then put on the first coat of Red! In the meantime, I'm going to give you a TIP!
When you spray metalic flake, never get over the top of the object with the can & stay roughly 2 feet from the object. Metalic flake is known for drops!
Now for the finished product! I spent a considerable amount of time years ago learning to paint Metalic Flake on 379 Peterbilts & even to this day those methods hold true. Never spray over the top & never spray close & keep even strokes but end the stroke out side of the object your shooting! Check out the magnified picture to get a closer look! The flake is even & constant & that is the goal!
First Coat: Left Panel
First Coat: Right Panel
Now for the finished Product:
Left Panel, Second Coat & 2 coats of Clear:
Right Panel, Second Coat & 2 Coats of Clear:
Here is the magnified picture to show you the finish & how clear the base is!
Now imagine this & this all put together! :
Does this look better? :
I almost Forgot, I added my own little touch, FLAMES! BTW, look at the reflection in the paint!
Now I still have a few small details to finish! I'm going to see about glass for the side window as I can't stand the cheap junk scratching Plexi-glass but I gotta do that later today. My buddie ExT1ncT1on actually deserves credit for this trick/tip! Hopefully it will not be as hard to cut but supporting it is another matter but I do have an idea floating in my head that just might work.
Preping the Left Side Panel For Glass:
Step ( 1 )
15, 10-32 Acorn Chrome Nuts
11, 10-32 X 1/2" Nylon bolts/screws
4, 10-32 X 3/4 Bolts
Notice 3/16 is slightly larger than a 10-32
Step ( 2 )
Using a sharp 3/16 drill bit:
Drill out all the holes surrounding the glass window.
Step ( 3 )
Using A small amount of 242 Blue Loctite
Place the Nylon screw into the holes you drilled & apply the loctite but don't get it on your paint job!
Step ( 4 )
Start & tighten by hand each individual nut.
Step ( 5 )
Remove one of the screws that holds the 200mm fan in place.
Step ( 6 )
Drill out the hole GENTLY so as to not break off the ear that the fan screw goes into .
Step ( 7 )
Install the 3/4" steel 10-32 bolt in the hole & apply the 242 Blue Loctite then place & tighten the nut finger tight.
*NOTE* If the fan ever needs replaced you will need to re-drill each of the holes to 10-32 to re-attach the fan!
Repeat this step until all fan retaining screws are completed.
Step ( 8 )
Grind off the heads of the 11 plastic screws surrounding the window, DO NOT grind them off completly, all is needed is to make each of them even so the glass doesn't stick off far from the surface of the metal.
Now we are ready for the glass!
CUSTOM MADE GLASS:
From the factory:
The Glass Installation:
With the glass:
Here's yet another idea!:
TOTAL COST FOR ALL PAINTING MATERIALS
Paint - $74.95
Sandpaper - $20.64
Tape - $3.44
Chrome Flames - ( X 4 ) - $27.20
Glass - $ 150.00
TOTAL : $276.23
Now back to the build itself! I'm waiting on an item I went to do some reasearch on so bare with me on the rest of the case modification as I will finish it when I get some more information on the items.
If your going to invest the money to build a nice computer, INVEST in a static Wrist band to ensure you DO NOT damage any of your components while installing them! It cost very little & will give you piece of mind as well as you can save yourself from possibly having to deal with a RMA !
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16899261005 - $4.99
INSTALLING THE STAND OFFS FOR THE MOTHERBOARD!
Installing the PSU ( Power Supply unit )
Installing the CPU ( Central Processing Unit )
Installing the CPU is simple yet one needs to pay attention to detail as the chip it'self is delicate & very easialy damaged! Keep in mind there are serveral Processors & one need to find out EXACTLY which one matches the QVL of your selected motherboard. Here is a link to intel that has a pdf instruction for installing the CPU into the 1155 socket.
Here is a YouTube video: [VIDEOhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuGwPnWrpow][/VIDEO]
INSTALLING THE MEMORY!
Refer to section 1.2.4 in the Manual
The Next Step will be the WIFI!
The WIFI is really simple to hook up BUT I do have some simple suggestions.
(1 ) Install the WIFI as shown in the manual PRIOR TO INSTALLING THE MOTHERBOARD!
After installing the WIFI, Install the motherboard backplate into the case. Follow the steps to install the motherboard into the case , refer to section 2.1.1 for the installation instructions. Example:
Install the ROG Key Cable:
Refer to 2.3.3 in the manual, It is easier to do this now than later!
The next step is easier done prior to hooking up the 4-pin & 8 pin power connectors.
EXAMPLE WITH INSTRUCTION:
Hooking up the 4, 8 & 24 pin power wires is virtually simple, just be careful where you route them!
NOTE: Doing this now is much eaiser than after installing the H100i!
Now, after getting the motherboard & the WIF installed & the ROG Key Cable, you can move on to the H100i sealed liquid cooling system or your preferred cooling system & remember to review the manual for further instructions located in section 2.1.3 of the motherboard manual. Depending on your preference, push pull or down flow or up flow, refer to your cooling systems manual as well. I have mine set to pressure the case which reduces the noise & the two top case fans will push down & the two H100i fans will also pull down & the rear case fan will be used as the exhaust.
Because I'm using the Touch 2100 fan controller, I will hook the top two case outer fans to the controller & the Inner two H100i fans to the motherboard & therefore allow the ramp up through the BIOS for the two inner lower radiator fans.
Looking Down from above:
The next step is to install the front panel of the case.
Note the folowing pic provides some help:
SATA 6.0 & 3.0 Basic Wiring Diagram :
NOTE: There is a difference between SAT 6.0 Cables & SATA 3.0 Cables!
The Wiring Kit Supplied with the Motherboard has 6- SATA 6 & 2-SATA 3Cables.
I suggest for those interested to read the following article. Some say there is a VERY wide range of difference between SATA 3 & SATA 6 Cables. For gamers the speeds are very essential yet for basic PC use, it's not worth the hassel but still read the article & see if your opinion differs. I used the provided SATA 6 gbps cables between the SSD's & the HDD's then the SATA 3 gbps cables for the ROM drives.
I you don't care about transfer rates then SATA 3 apperas to be just slightly slower than that of the SATA 6!
There are some connectors NOT INCLUDED you might want to have!
You might not use every one but it cost little to have extra & they come in handy! I robbed one from a old Dell I had in the storage, I was short 1 Molex Extension!
Now on to installing the front cover:
As you can see I failed to do so & it was a pain!
Remember these wires?
Use the provided Q-Connector kit & refer to the manual for instructions of how to hook it up!
BE CAREFUL when installing them to your quick connector!
Refer to section 2.1.7 in the manual for the CORRECT wire arrangement for the quick connector,
the Front I/O Connector & the Touch 2100 USB 3.0 & USB 2.0. The USB 2.0 on the Left is from the Top Case Cover.
One last cable to connect from the top panel is the ESATA3G. In the CoolerMaster manual, it shows VERY little & the motherboard manual doens't even mention it.
Now is as good a time as any to show some of the basics for the fan controller. Always refer to the manual for tips on installing it & also review the amperage requirements as well, even tho most are within ranges to support most all configurations. Below is a example I made on how I configured my fan controller.
The Following is based on the H100i System Cooler:
Here is a basic example of how to connect the H100i to your power supply!
GPU ( Graphics Cards Installation )
Here is a reference card supplied with the motherboard:
When handeling the graphics cards, be VERY GENTLE & keep your fingers off of the printed circuit boards. People often don't realize it, but your fingers have by nature a salt based residue on them which can contaminate surfaces of electronin devices. If you've ever watched videos of electrionic manfacturers, you'll see every person wearing gloves to protect the product surfaces from contamination!
TIP: WASH YOUR HANDS & DRY THEM THOUROUGHLY
I'm not telling you to not touch them, I'm telling you where you can SAFELY touch them for both installation & removal as you will need to do both. Better safe than sorry is the key! Don't install both graphics cards as the motherboard will only recognize one of them until you have completed the post & are able to install all the drivers & have use of the INVIDIA Control Panel. This process also allows you to remove the first card & insatll the second card & re-run the post to check the second card therfore allowing a pre-test post per say of the individual GPU's seperately.
Utilize the manual for the correct installation of the GPU's. Refer to Chapter 1 page 1-30 , you can use the lane switch to also control the PCIe X16 slots to do the test as well. How to supply power to the GPU (' s ).
ALWAYS refer to the manufactures manual for installing the GPU's. Each are unique & there are numerious ways each may need to be installed, this is merely a example of how I did the EVGA GTX 670's in this particular build.
PRE-POST OVERALL INSPECTION
( 1 ) CHECK EVERY connection you have made to this point & make sure every connection is VARIFIED 100% CORRECT by reviewing the manual. Repeat this as many times as it takes to make certain your connections are CORRECT & they are each seated properly!
( 2 ) DO NOT start zip-tieing wires as if you were going to complete the build, you may need to relocate them & if there is a problem, you may need to unhook or relocate wires as needed.
( 3 ) Hook up your monitor keyboard & mouse & DO NOT connect the power cord to the power supply until your certain all connections are complete.
( 4 ) Refer to the manual, chapter 2.4 page 2-28 for Start up for the first time.
( 5 ) Keep a pen & paper & the manual open so if there is a code provided you can write it down & troubleshoot the issue.
NOTE: See the section below PRIOR to start up in reguard to the MEMORY MODUAL TESTING!
* * Remember nothing is guaranteed * *
MEMORY MODUAL TESTING
If you notice, there is only 1 GPU installed for the pre-post start-up, as I mentioned above in the log. You can & may choose to do the same with the memory. Testing each of the memory sticks is never a bad idea however, it make take shutting down the system for the amount of memory your going to be installing. Keep in mind you can ONLY USE memory slot A1 for this procedure!
EXAMPLE & GUIDE:
Take your time as this is the moment of success or failure & with the cost associated, failure on your bahalf is not a option! Follow the instructions for powering up & review every issue needed to be successful.
INSTALLING THE OS ( Windows Operating System ) after a successful Post Start-up
A very good example of installing the OS is to utilize the following link:
NOTE: The one thing that isn't mentioned is the Firmware for the SSD's which has to be updated PRIOR to the OS being installed on the SSD in most cases!. ALWAYS refer to the manual or contact the manufacturer to obtain support for your selected hardware. Asking questions now can save you headaches later & there is NO such thing as a dumb question! I still have questions & always will, ( you/we/all ) are NEVER TO OLD TO LEARN!
NOTE: The Graphics cards as well have firmware that may need to be updated prior to installing the drivers. Refer to the manufactures website for the selected firmware reguarding the graphics card of which your going to install. If using 2 as I have done, you will need to install the firmware on each card individually. Doing this also allows you to test both of the GPU cards indivually. Similar to the steps in testing the memory moduals, this can be done. Refer to the manual of the GPU your installing for steps to complete this task.
For Windows 7 users, here is a REALLY GOOD tip for indexing & improving performance:
How to update System ( Windows 7 ) Drivers MANUALLY
IN THIS ORDER:
The order is:
1. MOBO drivers
2. LAN Drivers
3. Video Drivers
4. Audio Drivers
Some devices have drivers that you need to install yourself. If you download a driver that isn't self-installing, follow these steps:
You must be logged on as an administrator to perform these steps.
1.Open Device Manager by clicking the Start button , clicking Control Panel, clicking System and Security, and then, under System, clicking Device Manager. If you're prompted for an administrator password or confirmation, type the password or provide confirmation.
2.In the list of hardware categories, find the device that you want to update, and then double-click the device name.
3.Click the Driver tab, click Update Driver, and then follow the instructions. If you're prompted for an administrator password or confirmation, type the password or provide confirmation.
I use the following site for MANY different tips & tricks, you find it quite usefull!
I did some research today reguarding the ROG EXCHANGE feature provided with the MAXIMUS V EXTREME.
What is ROG Exchange?
ROG Exchange is a database of OC Profiles right here on rog.asus.com that you can search to try out yourself, or, submit and share your own into the community database. The ROG Exchange software also allows you to upload/download from the database as well as update/download your ROG motherboard BIOS OC Profiles.
What is an OC Profile?
Within the ROG UEFI BIOS there is the OC Profile section which you can use to save the BIOS settings. For example, If you've spent hours overclocking your system with fine grained system tweaks to CPU, memory, voltages, LLC ~etc then you can save it all in an OC Profile. If you have to reset the CMOS for any reason, just go back to the saved OC Profile and the full set of settings can be reloaded in a single click!
Does ROG Exchange over-write my BIOS? Isn't that dangerous?
Nope! An OC Profile just saves the settings not the underlying BIOS code, so there's no risk of corrupting the BIOS.
How much is ROG Exchange?
ROG Exchange is a totally free software and database. The only condition is that you have to own a compatible ROG motherboard loaded with a specific BIOS, because it must accept the ROG Exchange software interacting with it.
Who is this for?
ROG Exchange is designed for anyone from technical amateurs (maybe you want a solid 4.5GHz OC) to OC professionals (get an LN2 starting block). Browse through the OC Profiles to see what others have submitted, download, try them and vote and comment on which are best.
What motherboards are compatible?
Currently the Maximus V series are supported (from the 1309 BIOS), with the Rampage IV series support coming shortly.
NOTE: I already updated my BIOS to VERSION 1501 as provided on the ASUS Web Site so in order to use this feature, I would have to REVERT back to the 1309 BIOS of which I am NOT going to do. You can store your CURRENT BIOS but I suggest NOT DOING SO if your system is STABLE! I inquired in the ASUS Forums as to WHY this isn't published into the manual or the BIOS update page & currently got NO RESPONCE other than the following -->
I've ALWAYS been told if your system is stable NEVER REVERT your BIOS to a prvious version! The Choice is yours!
WHY REVERT just to share a OC Profile is the question? Stability is the KEY FACTOR!
[BUILD LOG/GUIDE] COMPLETE
I'm not going to go further with any other BIOS suggestions or major details but there are some simple little things one can do to make things a bit easier & as I encounter some possible tips/tricks I will post them here within the thread. Also as I go along, I will post some screen shots & some details of which I'm sure I as well am going to encounter once I get the system up running & stable. I will also post some better pics as my camera is currently DeAd! I would like to take this time to thank those whom participated in helping as well as adding input/suggestions & comments into the thread & [BUILD LOG]/ GUIDE, your help & input is VERY APPRECIATED! I honestly hope this helps you complete your build successfully as well as provides some information which one can deem helpful & useful. I wish you The Best in hopes your build is as successful as mine has been thusfar. NOTE: I did make a few mistakes however I was able to correct them & I noted every one of them here within the [BUILD LOG]/ GUIDE CORRECTLY so you don't make the same!
Helping others is ALWAYS to the advantage of the majority!
Good Luck & Best Wishes, GUNNY1966
If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking.
General George S. Patton
This is the box I recieved my motherboard in from NewEgg via UPS delivery!
Thanks Mr. Brown & Gold
Makes a guy wanna whip outta 50 gallon drum au total woop-a$$!
S c A r Y
YES, I WAS CONSIDERING A RMA but there is ALWAYS A POSSIBILITY!
My Pre-Post Start Up Pics!
LUCK or SUCCESS, you be the judge!
After installing other things & hooking up the second GPU & some BIOS settings!
After installing windows & some BIOS updates & the normal system configurations:
ISSUE # ( 1 ) When setting up 2 SSD's of the same size, name them similar to this:
Don't leave them like this, It's hard to distinguish which one is which. While setting up the boot option in the BIOS, It's extremely hard to tell which one has the boot on it due to the BIOS only recognizes the OCZ VERTEX 4, size & nothing else. Name them differently so you can distinguish it for yourself!
ISSUE # ( 2 ) I just found this while checking the task manager to see what issues could be causing the 13% CPU useage at idle. The fix is rather simple, DON'T install the intel Rapid Storage tecnology! Use something else like Marvell for the RAID controller, I did not set this system up in RAID therefore I didn't utilize it anyway. Windows has it's own storage & therefore there is no need for the intel software for the way this system is configured. Remember to also check the ACHI mode in the BIOS after uninstalling the intel software as It can change the value from ACHI to RAID depeding on the BIOS current setting.
This brings the TOTAL CURRENT BUILD COST TO: $4,327.45
I assure you this amount is VERY VERY CLOSE to the complete cost. Remember earlier in the beggining of the build I stated I kept ALL RECIEPTS in one manual & the other was dedicated for the build, well it's true & I recalculated the ENTIRE sum & it's CORRECT! I hope this helps somebody some day cause it's sure alotta effort to keep this all correct & up to date, I realize it's not perfect but I tired. I hope you enjoyed it, I did!
Now to move it to the desk & get some finalized pics to post!
My Backsplash Log On Screen, Look closely into the center, watch for the flash:
My background after log-in:
with the flash on!
The Front Fan Cover
The Fan Controller in the dark:
In the dark:
After running the Windows Index Experience & posting up some visual info:
After some issues with the H100i, I installed a Swiftech H20-320 ELITE & totally removed the H100i. I spent countless hours of wasted time trying to get the H100i to work as far as the firmware & I might also add the dealing with Corsair in reguards to the RMA of which I can say is honestly a pain in the ass! The Swiftech H20-320 Elite offers WAY better cooling & requires NO FIRMWARE!
Below are some pics for your viewing pleasure!
The Kit backplates:
FLASHING THE BIOS:
R E A D --- V E R Y --- C A R E F U L L Y
OPTION # 1
EZ Flash 2 – the best, the safest and the most convenient way to update BIOS.
Revised July 31, 2011 - Description for update through ASUS BUPDATER.
Updating BIOS is serious business!
Every precaution should therefore be taken to prevent that anything goes wrong. Avoid ASUS UPDATE!
There are a couple a DOS alternatives, AFUDOS and BUPDATER (newer motherboards), that also are good and safe to use.
Note: AFUDOS (floppy drive) can only be used for BIOS files up to a size of 1 MB due to the limited storage capacity.
EZ Flash 2 is a built-in function of BIOS. It is the safest way to update BIOS, because one is not dependent on the operating system, any application, internet connection, firewall settings, antivirus or anything else that can put the vital BIOS update at risk.
On a new build, BIOS can be updated to the latest version before installation of the OS, which may possibly make the installation go smoother and safer.
Note: All what's said below about loading BIOS defaults also applies to the other BIOS update methods (ASUS Update, AFUDOS and BUPDATER)!
The PC should not be overclocked during the BIOS update! Always load and save BIOS defaults before and after a BIOS update (press ). By loading and saving BIOS defaults before the update, CPU frequency, memory frequency and voltages are set to default (Auto).
Memory timings are set to SPD values which ensure that a PC with high performance memory that need a higher voltage than 1.8V for DDR2 or 1.5V for DDR3 is able to boot on the standard Memory Voltage. Save the default settings (press ) before starting the update.
Document all your preferred BIOS settings (i.e. the settings you have changed from the default setting).
Download the BIOS file, which normally is compressed (zipped).
Extract (unzip) the BIOS file to a FAT/FAT32 formatted USB Flash Disk with only one partition (or to a Floppy Disk or a CD-ROM). If the unzipped BIOS file is named like e.g. 'P5B-ASUS-Deluxe-1101.ROM', you can rename it to ( P5BD1101.ROM ). Otherwise a truncated name will appear as 'P5B-AS~1.ROM' due to a limitation to max 8 characters in the filename (8.3).
style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list 36.0pt" class=MsoNormal>Update:
Press ( tap )
Load BIOS Defaults ( press ).
Insert the USB Flash Disk containing the BIOS file P5BDxxxx.ROM. ( Note that the USB Flash Disk has to be inserted before boot to enter BIOS, otherwise it won't be detected ).
Save and Exit . (BIOS will now restart ).
During BIOS restart, press
Under Tools menu, select ASUS EZ Flash 2. It may take 20 seconds for the drives to show up. Select a drive in the left pane . Use and arrows and to select a drive. If you don't see the BIOS file in the right pane, check the other drives. Note that the drive letters may not be the same here as in Windows.
Select the BIOS file ( e.g. P5BD1101.ROM ) and press to start flashing. Supervise the update, which includes the following stages: Erasing - Flashing ( writing ) - Verification. BIOS will automatically restart when the update is ready.
Disconnect the USB Flash Disk before/during the restart.
Perform a C.P.R. ( CPU Parameter Recall ) which resets the chipset. Power down, remove power cord from the PSU for 2 minutes and then power up.
Enter BIOS and load BIOS Defaults again.
Reenter your preferred BIOS settings - if you are using AHCI or RAID mode, don't forget to set the SATA mode to [AHCI / RAID]. Also remember the settings for other controllers, Audio and Memory Voltage. Check also that the Boot Device Priority is correct.
Save and Exit ( automatic restart ).
OPTION # 2
BIOS update through ASUS BUPDATER
BUPDATER is a DOS utility (runs under the DOS operating system ). This utility is available for newer motherboards. The human interface is the same as for EZ Flash 2 ( the text commands are the same as in AFUDOS ).
- You will need the motherboard Support DVD.
- From the ASUS Download site, download, and if compressed extract, BUPDATER to a FAT/FAT32 formatted USB stick.
- Download and extract the BIOS file to the same USB stick as BUPDATER.
- Insert the Support DVD and the USB stick containing BUPDATER + the BIOS file.
- Reboot and press F8. Select boot from the Support DVD.
- When the Support DVD has booted and promted, select FreeDOS by entering its number.
- At the FreeDOS prompt, type: A: and press ( or B: or D:, wherever you find BUPDATER)
- At the A:\> prompt, type: BUPDATER / PC / G and press
- Follow the on-screen instructions.
If the BIOS update doesn't work
If the BIOS update via EZ Flash 2/BUPDATER through an USB stick doesn't work, check that the following prerequisites are fulfilled:
- The USB stick is partitioned FAT32/FAT.
- The USB stick has only one ( 1 ) partition.
- The BIOS file on the USB stick is extracted (unzipped/decompressed).
- The USB stick is inserted before boot so that it can be reqognized.
In case of a new build:
When BIOS is updated to the latest version, and prior to the installation of the operating system, run Memtest86+ ( v4.20 or later ) for a few hours to check that the memory test doesn't report any errors.
There are precompiled, bootable downloads for Floppy Disk, USB Flash Drive and CD-ROM ( ISO ).
Memtest86+ v4.20 released January 25, 2011
http://www.memtest.org/download/4.20/memtest86+-4.20.iso.zip ( Bootable CD )
http://www.memtest.org/download/4.20/memtest86+-4.20.floppy.zip ( Bootable Floppy )
( The unzipped ISO file is burnt as "image" on a CD )
WINDOWS 7 Home Premium 64 bit
INTEGRITY TESTING / REPAIR
Below is a tip on how to repair some Windows files rather easily. it's very simple, just follow the steps!
sfc / scannow
Go to START / ALL PROGRAMS / ACCESSORIES / COMMAND PROMPT
RIGHT CLICK on the COMMAND PROMPT & give ADMINISTRATOR PERMISSIONS
Then the COMMAND PROMPT box will appear on the desktop.
Move your mouse cursor into the box & type the following EXACTLY as show here
scf /scannow after you have typed it into the command prompt box, PRESS ENTER & the can will now begin.
Once the scan has completed it will inform you if the scan found errors & repaired them or if it sent error discoveries into the CAB file, IT WILL SHOW ANY RESULTS WITHIN THE COMMAND PROMPT BOX!
To view the CAB file it is easier to do the following so you can copy & paste it into Google to search out to find ways to fix the error. I will explain how to do this now!
Go to START / ALL PROGRAMS / ACCESSORIES / COMMAND PROMPT
RIGHT CLICK on the COMMAND PROMPT & give ADMINISTRATOR PERMISSIONS
Then the COMMAND PROMPT box will appear on the desktop.
Move your mouce cursor into the box & copy this line & paste it into the COMMAND PROMPT as show here:
findstr /c:"[SR]" %windir%\Logs\CBS\CBS.log >"%userprofile%\Desktop\sfcdetails.txt"
In doing this it will scan for the CAB file & place it AUTOMATICALLY onto your desktop in a notepad formso you can open it, view it & or use it to find the files of which is corrupted. You can then when your done with it simply delete it, send it to the recycling bin but make sure it doesn't remain on your desktop! The FILE NAME IS sfcdetails & you can open it to view the error files within! <--- THIS IS EASIER than searching out the CAB file & if you do, you will not be able to copy & paste it into your web browser! HOPE THIS HELPS!
Overall this was a successful build & I enjoyed it. Now it's time to sell it or keep it? HMMMMMMMM I ponder the thought!
This is the FIRST 3D Mark11 Benchmark at ( Entry Level ) ( STOCK ):
This is the FIRST 3D Mark11 Benchmark at ( Performance Level ) ( STOCK ):
I have added this system to the EVGA Mod's & Rig's as well so PLEASE DROP IN & Post me a message! Thank You! LINK: http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=31269
I'd like to take time to mention my fellow gaming buddies whom have helped me extensivly through out my various Q & A trials & tribulations, each have added thought where once there was little to no knowledge.
If I forgot to mention your name PLEASE bring it too my attention for the list is overwhelming & I assure you I didn't want to leave anyone out of this thread as you have helped me!
Hope You Like My Choices & don't forget to answer the poll & give feedback!
4 me, I'm gonna go get in some quality
Fraggin & Baggin
Edited by GUNNY1966 - 11/16/13 at 1:55am