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[Build Log] Calamity (SM8/G1 Sniper 3 Water Cooled Build) - Page 48

post #471 of 513
Addiction the Black frame and green fan looks fantastic. thumbsupsmiley.png

On the heat shrink I can only suggest placing individually shrink on each wire then place the large shrink over them and the sleeving as you've done. Or touch up with your green paint.

Looks like your changing the flow design I gather. I think you'll be ok with what your saying it just means keeping a reasonable RPM on those front fans v the top fans. As mentioned before the rear exhaust fan on the MOBo can act as an intake as well or place a single intake fan on the bottom (this option may not look the best..

Personally I would go pull on those top fans as dust will build on the RAD fins over time. Pull design is better for this reason as well.

Cheers cheers.gif
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post #472 of 513
Painting the frames gives a nice uniformity to the look. thumb.gif

Why don't you cut a piece of sleeve long enough to wrap over the female connector up to the tabs. You can stretch the 1/4" shrink with needle nose pliers. What I do is apply a little super glue to the end of the sleeve/wires, hold it in place, slip my shrink over the connector, pinch it down and stretch the sleeve, then hit it with the heat gun.
This way it keeps the sleeve from expanding, the shrink holds better, and keeps the sleeve from sliding up and down the wires and help prevent yanking the pins out of the connectors. Loose fan pins have been the bane of my existance what with all the plugging/unplugging I do and the more you can do to keep things in place the better.
But like I say I'm always pulling stuff apart so I'm very rough on connectors.

When you look at my build it seems I know what I'm doing, but a lot of the sleeving was trial and error and destroy and redo.

I also went back and hot glued the fan wires to the pcb because once you yank one completely out, solder and all, they are history.
once again I typed another book

Anyway everything is looking good. It's nice to see people take their time and make it look good!
post #473 of 513
Thread Starter 
I tried stretching the shrink, Mandrix, and to no avail. It wouldn't stretch far enough to fit over the fan connectors. I am probably ordering some green sata shrink from Nils though, as that should do the trick quite easily. I don't quite understand what you mean about "cutting a piece of sleeve long enough to wrap over the female connector up to the tabs"? What does that do? I was just doing it the way I do all my other sleeving for the most part (just added heatshrink to the mix).


I agree on the uniformity look with the painting of the frames. Thanks again for nudging me to do it. thumb.gif The hot glue on the fan solder and wiring is a great idea actually, and I might try that too.


And finally, thanks for the compliments. thumb.gif Means a lot coming from the person who has done, IMO, the best overall SM8 build on the forums! Your attention to details and the amount of work you have put into your build just made me want to do the same, so I'm trying to keep up. tongue.gif Hopefully I'll have some more updates in the coming week.
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post #474 of 513
Still looks like paradise to me. Wife and I are looking forward to visiting again sometime in the near future if time permits. Japanese food there is so much better than what we have access to in LA. We always had lunch at least 3-4 times a week at Menchakotei in Waikiki.

Looking forward to seeing pics of everything put together soon! I especially want to see them benchies!! biggrin.gif
    
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post #475 of 513
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrix View Post

Painting the frames gives a nice uniformity to the look. thumb.gif

Why don't you cut a piece of sleeve long enough to wrap over the female connector up to the tabs. You can stretch the 1/4" shrink with needle nose pliers. What I do is apply a little super glue to the end of the sleeve/wires, hold it in place, slip my shrink over the connector, pinch it down and stretch the sleeve, then hit it with the heat gun.
This way it keeps the sleeve from expanding, the shrink holds better, and keeps the sleeve from sliding up and down the wires and help prevent yanking the pins out of the connectors. Loose fan pins have been the bane of my existance what with all the plugging/unplugging I do and the more you can do to keep things in place the better.
But like I say I'm always pulling stuff apart so I'm very rough on connectors.

When you look at my build it seems I know what I'm doing, but a lot of the sleeving was trial and error and destroy and redo.

I also went back and hot glued the fan wires to the pcb because once you yank one completely out, solder and all, they are history.
once again I typed another book

Anyway everything is looking good. It's nice to see people take their time and make it look good!

Mandrix this is excellent advise as usual. thumb.gif I wish these experiences and learnings were placed in a knowledge base. thinking.gif
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post #476 of 513
Sorry-I meant cut a piece of shrink long enough to fit over the connector, not sleeve. redface.gif
The way to expand shrink is just slip it over some needlenose pliers and carefully stretch it a little at a time. I usually swap ends back and forth and stretch just a little each time, else the shrink will rip.
Some shrink, like Nils, will rip very very easy when stretched and you have to be careful.

Most of my "everday" shrink I order from Allied electronics. 1/4" black shrink (they don't have white in 1/4") is only 55 cents per 4 foot length, and normally ships in a cardboard tube and it isn't all folded up and such.
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70133170
If you order 9 or 10 sections then it's cost effective for shipping. 40 foot of 1/4" & 12 foot of 1/8" shrink was $21.48 with shipping, although your shipping would be more I'm sure.

Doing as much sleeving as I have done in the past 6 months makes it worthwhile to order a bunch like this, although I do order white shrink sometimes from Nils or from PPC-s.
The Qualtek shrink from Allied is fairly tough and is 3:1. Nils shrink is very thin and 4:1 but of course he has all sorts of colors. Usually any 3:1 shrink will have a little thicker wall and is more resistant to ripping when stretched.

@AvictorD
thanks, a lot of this kind of stuff Lutro0 has covered at one time or another in his sleeving videos. Before I started sleeving I watched his videos a bunch of times to catch what he was doing. Then with practice I just came up with my own way of doing things that works for me.

Here's a scrap piece I had laying around to give an idea of what I was talking about with stretching shrink over the connector.

Anyway I'm only making suggestions, do whatever works for you. If you use a little superglue to hold the sleeve that's usually good enough to keep it from sliding up and down the wiring.
post #477 of 513
Thread Starter 
Now it makes sense! tongue.gif I figured that might have been what you meant though, and a few have already mentioned it. The problem I had was getting the green shrink (from Nils) to stretch enough to get over the connector. I just couldn't get it to work, it would always rip. My solution was probably to just order some green sata shrink because its wider, but at the end of the day you will never see the fan connectors (they will be stuck to the backsides of the radiators in my build with tie mounts and zip ties). I could always still do it the "right way" with the wires that will be coming off into the case and into the controller, because those will be black and white and I have thicker black and white shrink already. We'll just have to see if my being a perfectionist lets me leave the wires that won't be exposed like that (probably not). tongue.gif
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post #478 of 513
The main reason I'm more meticulous with fan connectors is because I've had problems in the past with the pins sliding down in the connector, whether due to extreme bends, too much "hands on" or just my ineptness at pinning small connectors. When that happens obviously the electrical contact is broken.
So I basically try to do everything I can to keep the sleeve, wires, and ultimately the pins securely in place. When you have one hidden away somewhere and suffer a bad contact, it can sometimes be a major effort to fix.
I literally spent hours one day trying to figure out why some fans weren't working. Every time I pulled the connectors, all the pins looked good. Finally I pulled them and found one little stinking pin that had slipped down in the female fan connector that was causing the whole group to stop working. It was hit or miss whether it would move back into position when all connections were broken, until I finally found the little sucker sticking at the bottom of the connector not making contact.

Anyway that's the kind of stupid stuff that happens to me. tongue.gif
post #479 of 513
I'd like to upgrade to that level of stupid stuff - sheeeesh redface.gif
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post #480 of 513
Quote:
Originally Posted by socketus View Post

I'd like to upgrade to that level of stupid stuff - sheeeesh redface.gif
Why don't you get some stuff and start doing it? Got something else you have to do? No one knows how to do it until they do it. Believe me, I've made plenty of mistakes. I just keep working at things until I get it right. You should have seen all the screwed up paracord sleeving I did. redface.gif I destroyed my first original SeaSonic 24 pin connectors and had to buy new ones. I got real discouraged at first, got a second wind and went back at it with plastic sleeving.
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