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Spray painting with air compresser

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
I am planning on borrowing my sisters air compresser painting kit which she has never used. I was wondering where I would buy paint and what type of paint. Do I get it mixed? Google is so saturated these days I swear its getting harder to find info.


I would love to get a color as close to this as possible.

post #2 of 7
How deep do you want to get involved? Painting with enamel looks good, but you cannot clearcoat it. Luster is an issue so flat, high gloss or an area in between? Are you going to multi coat with wetsanding? Multi layer colors? Metallics, pearls, multicolor?

Looking at that color is fairly close to Desert Sand Mica # 4Q2. You could order it from any retail auto store. Not sure where your located, so I cannot recommend any particular place.
Edited by siggie30 - 12/5/12 at 6:39am
    
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post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
Thanks for reply. I dont think I will get too carried away this is my first build. So enamel would be the paint? This will be for rads and case. Might not evenwant to go glossy. Just flat. I would use krylon spray cans but I thought since I can use this compressor I should. Also the higher availability of colors this way? I'm not sure.
post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solonowarion View Post

Thanks for reply. I dont think I will get too carried away this is my first build. So enamel would be the paint? This will be for rads and case. Might not evenwant to go glossy. Just flat. I would use krylon spray cans but I thought since I can use this compressor I should. Also the higher availability of colors this way? I'm not sure.

British Columbia. Id just keep a matte finish
post #5 of 7
If you use enamel, DO NOT touch it for at least 72 hours (bake it if you can). It actually takes about 30 days for the off gassing to become tolerable. Looks great though after that. Flat enamel does have issues that you may not like, dust being the most apparent, but if you maintain it, it will last a long time and weather well (subjectively). Since you are only doing a case, I would not suggest professional equipment, but a rattle can for two reasons. One, the layering will be fine, because it will have a small footprint (recommend 50% coverage per pass). Lastly, cost. Paint prep determines the outcome, so prep, prep, prep, prime, prep, prep, paint.
    
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post #6 of 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siggie30 View Post

If you use enamel, DO NOT touch it for at least 72 hours (bake it if you can). It actually takes about 30 days for the off gassing to become tolerable. Looks great though after that. Flat enamel does have issues that you may not like, dust being the most apparent, but if you maintain it, it will last a long time and weather well (subjectively). Since you are only doing a case, I would not suggest professional equipment, but a rattle can for two reasons. One, the layering will be fine, because it will have a small footprint (recommend 50% coverage per pass). Lastly, cost. Paint prep determines the outcome, so prep, prep, prep, prime, prep, prep, paint.


I want to do rads as well. I just cant seem to find the color I want in a can.
post #7 of 7
Spray the radiator fins with light primer, and thinned paint. You do not want a build up of paint at that point. I do not think you will experience a loss of efficiency so long as your paint does not exceed .5mm. I guess you will get two passes at opposing angles. If you thin out your enamel before you spray, it will lay down better for you (ie limited orange peel), but that is alot of work for such a small amount of surface. If your in it for professional results, your probably looking at 30-40 hours for a decent job. Since your up nporth, I would suggest approaching a auto paint shop ang get 2 pints or half a liter of color. Ask whomever supplies you (hopefully a trusted source), for the appropriate primer.
    
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