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[Case mod] Bitfenix Survivor Vespa-style + reverse ATX (lots of photos, Phase 2) - Page 2

post #11 of 48
Thread Starter 
Still deciding. Sort of "going with the flow". Aqua LEDs are very likely, perhaps a strip of orange along the bottom, but that would look better with a black interior for the hot/cold effect. I'm likely leaving the interior white, so probably just a single-tone aqua LEDs.

Now deciding between satin black, gloss black, or metallic black (Rust-Oleum's Black Night Metallic)



Someone else's photo of the metallic paint ^
   
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post #12 of 48
The darker blue looks better imo, white leds are going to look really nice with that color. Good luck with ur project thumb.gif
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post #13 of 48
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Triniboi82 View Post

The darker blue looks better imo, white leds are going to look really nice with that color. Good luck with ur project thumb.gif

Thank you smile.gif Not doing white LEDs though - doing blue (aqua). It looks beautiful in my Bitfenix Prodigy with white interior on that LED color setting, so I wanted to reproduce it for this case.
   
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post #14 of 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElevenEleven View Post

Thank you smile.gif Not doing white LEDs though - doing blue (aqua). It looks beautiful in my Bitfenix Prodigy with white interior on that LED color setting, so I wanted to reproduce it for this case.

Ok cool, haven't seen much aqua blue leds in builds. I just checked them out & yea they should look pretty sweet
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post #15 of 48
Thread Starter 
Making photos of things illuminated with LED lights is quite difficult - they usually come out with incorrect colors. I tried to take a good photo of my Prodigy with a teal-ish color setting, but none of the dozens of photos I took is correct - they are all too washed out and blue and saturated. It looks much crisper, cleaner, and sharper in person - can see all the glossy reflections on parts and such.

Here's some idea, but it's a much more clean aqua color in person (one of the two LED strips is hanging down diagonally, because I knocked it off fixing something and need to get better double-sided sticky stuff... because this one is pretty weak)



Makes white objects in the case, like the fan and interior, take on whatever color the LEDs are. That's why I love white interiors personally. The pure white Phanteks fan in the exhaust position is brilliant.
   
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post #16 of 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElevenEleven View Post

Making photos of things illuminated with LED lights is quite difficult - they usually come out with incorrect colors. I tried to take a good photo of my Prodigy with a teal-ish color setting, but none of the dozens of photos I took is correct - they are all too washed out and blue and saturated. It looks much crisper, cleaner, and sharper in person - can see all the glossy reflections on parts and such.
Here's some idea, but it's a much more clean aqua color in person (one of the two LED strips is hanging down diagonally, because I knocked it off fixing something and need to get better double-sided sticky stuff... because this one is pretty weak) Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Makes white objects in the case, like the fan and interior, take on whatever color the LEDs are. That's why I love white interiors personally. The pure white Phanteks fan in the exhaust position is brilliant.

The more I see these prodigy pics the more it makes me want to get one.... Also, I have to agree with the dark blue color...
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post #17 of 48
Thread Starter 
Mostly painted now. Experimenting with the soft-touch finish parts to see if I have to sand them down completely, but so far holding up okay with Rust-Oleum primer for plastic.
   
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post #18 of 48
Thread Starter 
So the paint is sticking to plastic quite well with Rust-Oleum primer for plastic (and the paint itself indicates that it's suitable for plastics). I tried scratching a piece with a nail and sanding lightly, and the paint is sticking--and it's only been 13 hours since I painted it (says 5-7 days to fully cure on the plastic primer bottle).

Now I need to figure out which compound to get to fill in the gaps around the BitFenix logo. I'm covering it up, smoothing it out, and putting a chrome phoenix there instead:





This is on a sample piece - not part of the case.
   
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post #19 of 48
Thread Starter 
Got some



Sanded front panel:



A fat glob of the filler (had a whipped cream / souffle look to it and almost looked edible... if not for the terrible smell!)



Sanded down to a very smooth finish (though it doesn't look like it on the photo!



Just need to fill in a couple of tiny spots and re-sand now. Going to prime and paint this panel later tonight.
   
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post #20 of 48
Thread Starter 
Here's a Cougar fan that will be the rear exhaust fan:



On top of the panel it's going to be attached to (the other side though) -- panel is going to get sanding and more paint layers tomorrow evening.



Camera flash overload!

Purdy if I may say so myself! thumb.gif
Edited by ElevenEleven - 12/8/12 at 5:40pm
   
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Crucial m4 Hitachi TravelStar 2.5" SATA III Intel 330  BitFenix Recon fan controller 
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Corsair H100i Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-14 x 4 (radiator front... Phanteks 140mm fan (exhaust) Fractal Design R2 Silent 140mm fan (bottom intake) 
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Windows 7 Professional 64-bit Windows 8 Professional 64-bit (trying it out) Linux Mint Achieva ShiMian 27" IPSB (tempered glass) 
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Logitech MX518 Monoprice dual-surface aluminum IKEA Dioder light-changing LED strip on the roof Monoprice 10 x 6.25" drawing tablet 
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Achieva ShiMian 27" IPSB (tempered glass) Ducky Shine II MX Clears Corsair AX750 BitFenix Survivor in White 
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Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › [Case mod] Bitfenix Survivor Vespa-style + reverse ATX (lots of photos, Phase 2)