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Need help with painting a HAF X.

post #1 of 2
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So, here it goes. I need to start painting eventually, and I figure I'll give myself a 3 month grace period (waiting on 4th Gen I5 and GTX780).

A little about me : I can be called a perfectionist. I'm 16. I learn very fast. I have a lot of patience. I'm really clever. I live in Maine, and its cold as heel. I've never spent more than $300 at one time. I'm about to do a +/- $2500 build (Almost all my life savings x.x)

First off, I'm TERRIFIED. I've never done anything THIS extensive (slight mods sure, but this is different). What if I mess up? What if it comes out with bubbles? What if the paint looks like crap?

I'll be painting my Haf X interior and exterior white. All grills will be left black. The plastic will be white, and the metal will be white. I'll keep expansion covers black and the CD drive clips black.

There are so many different painting tutorials, some by car mechanics, some by PC modders. I don't know which to follow to get the best look, or how much this will cost me. I'd like to get started within the week if I can.

1. Do you guys think I can pull it off?
2. What tutorial will get me THE BEST results?
3. What paint should I use for this to look best?
4. I beg of you teach me your ways mighty OCN tongue.gif

THERE WILL BE A WORK LOG IN THE NEAR FUTURE ON THE ENTIRE MOD. THIS WILL BE AT NERD CONVENTIONS. IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT, PLEASE SAY SO.
Edited by TehOnlyMITTENS - 12/7/12 at 6:47am
Triennial
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Triennial
(15 items)
 
Free Laptop
(10 items)
 
Old Rig
(16 items)
 
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
I7-740QM GT 330M 4GB DDR3 1033Mhz Intel 320 120GB 
Optical DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
Blu-Ray Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit 1600 x 900 CM Storm Scout Cherry MX Black 
PowerMouse
6 Cell Li-ion 5200mah SteelSeries Sensei 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom II X6 @ 3.8 Core / 2.7 NB / 2.7 HT ASUS M4A89GTD Pro/USB3 Gigabyte WINDFORCE 3X 6870 952/1076 4GBs DDR3 G.Skill Eco 1450Mhz 7-8-7-24 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Boot/Main Drive : SSD Intel 320 120Gb Sorage : Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS Spire Thermax Eclipse II Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Samsung SyncMaster 2233sw 21.5" 1920x1080 Gateway HD2200 24" 1680x1050 Generic ASUS Corsair TX750 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Cooler Master Haf X Generic ASUS Generic ASUS Turtle Beach PX5 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2 of 2
Consider drilling out the rivets on the case so you are working with flat parts. They can be replaced easily with off the shelf pop rivets, or get color matched ones like available at MNPCTech.

Follow any tutorial that seems to work for you, and that uses the paint type available to you. Anything is fine, from rattle cans on up to car paints if you have the equipment. There are many types of paint too, from single stage on up to multiple coat effects (primer, base, irridescent, clearcoat). All depends on the look you are going for.

Find an old junked computer system to do a test run on. This will allow you to see how your chosen paint looks when completed, and allow you to learn from any mistakes without messing up a $300 case. You will also be able to see how the paint works out on both plastic and metal components.

And, as with any paint work, PREPARATION is 90% of a good job. Make sure you have a very clean, well ventilated area to paint in. Have breathing protection for yourself if indoors. Don't paint in the cold. Make sure your surfaces are clean, sanded smooth, cleaned again, as flawless as possible. Do a dry run of your painting session. Make sure you have the parts hanging in a way that works for you. Make sure everything is organized so you don't have to run around looking for things, trying to figure out what to do, while holding a freshly painted part.

If you follow directions for the paint, and prep properly, there should be no bubbles. Bubbling, cracking and peeling are due to a flawed surface, oils and dirt. Fine dust can also show up in very glossy paint, so it's important to have a clean, dust free environment to spray and dry in.

A good piece of advice is to spray a junk part at the end of your painting session. Use that junk part to touch if you want to know if your paint is dry.
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