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Help overclocking 3570K - Page 8

post #71 of 93
Try to set it to 42 and a - .050 offset voltage and see what that shows in cpu-z. Leave everything else for now. Just to see what it says
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post #72 of 93
Thread Starter 
Well I'll leave the test on for now and come back in about 2 hours to update u guys on whats going on. Pls leave me anymore advice to read about because I'm really trying to understand overclocking.
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post #73 of 93
If my math is correct a - .050 should get around 1.18 volt. Do like enigma said and set everything back stock and see
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post #74 of 93
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Srry I stopped the test cause I read some post a bit to late but I got to go do some stuff and I'll be back in 2 hours srry
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post #75 of 93

From what I've learned, the Offset is calculated by finding the difference between the VID under full load (not to be confused with the core voltage), and the idle voltage while using a manual core voltage.

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post #76 of 93
Yeah. I was just thinking back when i was running my asus board. My 2500k was 1.272 underload on auto. I could only go -.015 with a very slight touch of vdroop for 1.248 to 1.252 or so. Anything more would crash. My msi doesnt have offset so i was trying to remember how to do it. Getting old. Can't remember a whole lot anymore. lol
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post #77 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

From what I've learned, the Offset is calculated by finding the difference between the VID under full load (not to be confused with the core voltage), and the idle voltage while using a manual core voltage.

Should be the difference between the VID at load and the manual load voltage required for stability. You wrote idle by mistake there. So if you need 1.25V for stability and your load VID is 1.20, you'd want a +0.05 offset, or if your VID is 1.25V and you only need 1.20V for stability, then it is a -0.05 offset.

Personally, I don't like trying to calculate it from the VID. becuase, I think it is easier to just set a small offset initially, then see what voltage that provides and adjust the offset accordingly. Takes LLC out of the equation, and is only one extra step (assuming you would get it right the first time with the VID method). Both ways work though.
post #78 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forceman View Post


Should be the difference between the VID at load and the manual load voltage required for stability. You wrote idle by mistake there. So if you need 1.25V for stability and your load VID is 1.20, you'd want a +0.05 offset, or if your VID is 1.25V and you only need 1.20V for stability, then it is a -0.05 offset.
Personally, I don't like trying to calculate it from the VID. becuase, I think it is easier to just set a small offset initially, then see what voltage that provides and adjust the offset accordingly. Takes LLC out of the equation, and is only one extra step (assuming you would get it right the first time with the VID method). Both ways work though.

 

Nope, I said idle on purpose.  I used to think it was the difference between VID and load, but then one day I was helping someone and we calculated the difference between the VID and load.  He left his LLC the same as before, but yet his full-load voltage was lower than it was before.  So then we calculated between VID and idle, and it worked.  So, I've been seeing it that way ever since.

 

However, I failed to mention that it is easiest to do this if you can find an LLC level that nearly eliminates vDroop all the way.  Otherwise, it's just guesswork.

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It's a computer!
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i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (OS) 3 TB Toshiba P300 (storage) Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner 
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post #79 of 93
Yeah.. I just cheated. I saw what it was the lowest under load and set a -.010 to start just cause i knew it didn't need what it was showing me. It confusies me trying to figure out all the math sometimes. That - .60 just didn't seem right tho. Might just be me. I just did not want to overwhelm him at first with a small overclock at first by changing alot of stuff
Edited by jeffro37 - 12/8/12 at 10:37pm
jeffro37
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jeffro37
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Windows 10 pro Samsung 32" LCD Logitec 520 (wireless) Corsair TX 750 
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Intel c2d e7400 xFx 750i sli ext. Evga 660 sc Kingston ddr2 800 
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post #80 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffro37 View Post

Yeah.. I just cheated. I saw what it was the lowest under load and set a -.010 to start just cause i knew it didn't need what it was showing me. It confusies me trying to figure out all the math sometimes. That - .60 just didn't seem right tho. Might just be me

 

Well, you know that what works for one guy works for everyone right?

 

I'm only kidding.  :)

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It's a computer!
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (OS) 3 TB Toshiba P300 (storage) Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate Basic, but premium round 
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