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How true is this? Pamphlet included with my new EK waterblock. - Page 4

post #31 of 37
Thread Starter 
I wasn't supposed to remove the backplate that hold the CPU socket thing in place was I? I followed EKs manual as close as I could and it never mentioned anything like that, but then again you guys say the bigger jetplate is better for any CPU and their instructions are garbage so who knows? I just have to be sure before I turn this thing on for the first time, you know those first few seconds when your about to have a mini-heart attack after building a new rig and turn it on for the first time hoping there's no catastrophic problems? haha
post #32 of 37
Don't worry about the EK backplate touching the built-in backplate. Think about it, the purpose of both backplates is precisely identical, to anchor and support the weight of the heatsink, whether it's a waterblock or the usual huge slab of fins and fans. You have an enthusiast board so most likely ASUS put it there expecting that people would mount heavy third-party coolers with their own additional backplates anyway. So assuming you haven't connected a live wire to your waterblock biggrin.gif, there's no risk of shorting something if the backplates touch. Just make sure the added backplate doesn't touch anything else.
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Blinky
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post #33 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradoxum View Post

I wasn't supposed to remove the backplate that hold the CPU socket thing in place was I? I followed EKs manual as close as I could and it never mentioned anything like that, but then again you guys say the bigger jetplate is better for any CPU and their instructions are garbage so who knows? I just have to be sure before I turn this thing on for the first time, you know those first few seconds when your about to have a mini-heart attack after building a new rig and turn it on for the first time hoping there's no catastrophic problems? haha
To be honest, the stuff about jet plates is opinion. As I think someone mentioned, different flow rates and loops and other factors will affect which plate works best in a particular build. In EK's judgement, the plates they suggest work for a majority of systems as recommended, but it's not necessarily true for every system in the universe. YMMV but that doesn't make their instructions "garbage".

Regarding the built-in plate--I haven't built an ASUS board in a few years but check the mobo manual VERY CAREFULLY to see if that installed backplate is something that is intended to be removed. I haven't had the M5F in my hands, or checked the manual personally, but my impression is that the built-in plate is non-removable.

If there's nothing in either the block or the motherboard manual specifically saying that you have to remove it, DON'T.

Regarding back-clearance, there's usually plenty of room, and I'm guessing we're only talking about three or four mm. Take a look at your case and see if there's any potential issue.

But yeah I totally understand the last-second heebie jeebies when going for the first boot! Just make sure everything is by the book and you'll be fine thumb.gif
Blinky
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Blinky
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post #34 of 37
Thread Starter 
Can you try and explain better why different loops would matter with the different jetplates? I didn't really understand Markes12344s explaination. Basically, my loop is a single closed loop with 1 route the whole way around, do I want the jetplate with the larger hole to allow more flow in, or do I want the one EK recommends? Please don't say the latter as I'd hate to have to disassemble the thing for the third time.
post #35 of 37
Here is a Quick Paint Sketch... Skills all the way.



That is kind of what somepeople do in a water cooling set up

Long Black = Rad
Squarish Black = Res
Circle Black = Pump
Green Blocks = Water Blocks (CPU, GPU, Ram, HDD, Chipsets... ect)
Red lines = Main Water loop
Blue lines = Block Out
Orange Lines = Block Input

Essential in some peoples parallel loop they need less water in their CPU block (smaller jet plate) in order to force more water into the other blocks of the loop. If the Water had it's easiest pass threw the very first block, all if not next too all water would go threw it alone. and the other blocks would be nothing but stale water, not flowing.

Does this kind of clear it up abit??

The jet plate choice for you is well the bigger the better. It is because in your loop, as it is all in series. The "out" of one block is the "in" of the next block. Therefore you need as much water able to pass threw it as possible.
post #36 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradoxum View Post

I wasn't supposed to remove the backplate that hold the CPU socket thing in place was I? I followed EKs manual as close as I could and it never mentioned anything like that, but then again you guys say the bigger jetplate is better for any CPU and their instructions are garbage so who knows? I just have to be sure before I turn this thing on for the first time, you know those first few seconds when your about to have a mini-heart attack after building a new rig and turn it on for the first time hoping there's no catastrophic problems? haha

I have the same block just full nickel, and the same board as you. I did not remove any plates, and I will say that the instructions left more to be desired. If you look closely at the EK backplate it has marks that you can will allow you to fit it with the CPU backplate.

Just put in the rubber gasket, then the EK backplate, and screw it down.

From what I read, EK installs the best jetplate from the factory (speaking about performance). (Martin had that information on his website), so no need to mess with the jet plate.

If you want I can post some pics from how my board looks in the back..
post #37 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jassilamba View Post

I have the same block just full nickel, and the same board as you. I did not remove any plates, and I will say that the instructions left more to be desired. If you look closely at the EK backplate it has marks that you can will allow you to fit it with the CPU backplate.
Just put in the rubber gasket, then the EK backplate, and screw it down.
From what I read, EK installs the best jetplate from the factory (speaking about performance). (Martin had that information on his website), so no need to mess with the jet plate.
If you want I can post some pics from how my board looks in the back..

Yeah, I have the rubber gasket between them obviously but the metal plates looked like they were almost touching to me still, but I guess if you have the exact same setup and nothing exploded then there's nothing to worry about
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