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Need help diagnosing a cooling problem - Page 2

post #11 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forceman View Post

I've never used one, but it was designed for LGA 2011 CPUs, and no way is 70C a reasonable idle temp for any CPU. Unless he did something in the BIOS, the chip won't be running at 1.4V when idling.
Here's a review of the Intel cooler - notice the 30C idle temps.
http://www.extremetech.com/computing/107147-intels-liquid-cpu-cooler-is-water-worth-the-cost/2
This is when experienced people work with (pro's) - When you are first time with this system with no previous info and how's to do your first words it will be "HELP!!!" somethig burning. biggrin.gif
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post #12 of 19
OK Joke a side - there is no reason for panic - He was lucky because a lot of them got BSOD problems at first run. Me my self i spend one whole day to find out that you have to adjust lot of things to be able to run this system at low clocks. It is easier to OC this CPU than to run at low clocks :-p
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post #13 of 19
Thread Starter 
Hey guys, sorry for the delay in responding. I was on a getaway in the woods, away from the troublesome computer...

OK, I filled out that forum detailing my system.

I tried to lower my vCore, and my system crashed. I put it back to default settings. Is there a trick to downclocking? Is it even necessary? I'm about to send off for a new heatsink since I'm pretty much out of ideas here.

Also, I double checked my fan connections, and I have it plugged into the dedicated CPU fan slot on the MoBo. I assume the pump is working because one of the tubes is warm to the touch, and the other is cool. The air coming out the back isn't very warm though. I can feel the radiator (the block that the tubes run into), and it isn't as warm as I expected it to be either. It's warm near the warm tube, but not anywhere else. It makes me wonder if the radiator is actually working.

Today, just for kicks, I unplugged all of my hard drives except my boot drive. It didn't make a difference, but I guess I never really expected it to.

Is there anything else you think I should try before I order a new heatsink? I set all my BIOS settings to factory default. Is it possible that something there needs to be changed?

Thanks everyone for the help. It's much appreciated.

Later!
post #14 of 19
Thread Starter 
It's also worth noting that I don't have a push-pull configuration on my heat exchanger. I can't imagine it would make that much of a difference, but I thought I'd throw that out there.
post #15 of 19
Thread Starter 
OK, last thing to note here. I resat my heatsink again today, this time using the thermal application procedure recommended by Arctic Silver. I also unmounted the pump to clean the dust from the radiator. I could definitely hear some sloshing happening in there. The fact that there's air in the system makes me worried that it isn't working properly. Especially since the temperature of the two tubes is so drastically different, but I don't really feel any heat coming off the exhaust fan...

I'd love to hear from someone by tomorrow around mid day, because that's when I'm going to order a new (and different) heatsink. Maybe a Noctura NH-D14, and give up on the liquid cooled thing for a while.
post #16 of 19
Air bubbles in system can be a serious problem. Try to find on net how you can check is it air in your system and how to discharge the same! I cant help because i newer work with those all in one systems frown.gif
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Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Mushkin Enhanced Chronos MKNSSDCR240GB 2.5" 240GB Seagate ST2000VX002 WD20EZRX Kingston HyperX 3K SH103S3/240G 2.5" 240GB 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
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PowerCase
SeaSonic X750 Gold 750W  Cooler Master HAF 922 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
I7 3930k ASUS P9X79 MSI N670GTX-PM2D2GD5/OC MSI N670GTX-PM2D2GD5/OC 
RAMHard DriveCoolingOS
PXD38G2133C11K Corsair Force 3 Noktua NH D14 Windows 8 
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Studio
(17 items)
 
Game I
(10 items)
 
Game II
(12 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 3930k ASUS P9x79 VGA GeForce GTX 770 4GB Dual FTW w/ EVGA ACX Co... HyperX Predator (T2) - 8GB Kit* (2x4GB) - DDR3 ... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Mushkin Enhanced Chronos MKNSSDCR240GB 2.5" 240GB Seagate ST2000VX002 WD20EZRX Kingston HyperX 3K SH103S3/240G 2.5" 240GB 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Optiarc DVD RW AD-7200S SEIDON 240mm Windows 8 ASUS MX279 
MonitorPowerCaseAudio
ASUS MX279 Thermaltake 750W LC Power Infiltrator M-Audio Delta 1010Lt 
Audio
M-Audio FireWire Solo 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
I7 3930k ASUS P9X79  GV-N670OC-2GD  PXD38G2133C11K 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Corsair Force 3 Noktua NH D14 Windows 8 ASUS VE278Q 
PowerCase
SeaSonic X750 Gold 750W  Cooler Master HAF 922 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
I7 3930k ASUS P9X79 MSI N670GTX-PM2D2GD5/OC MSI N670GTX-PM2D2GD5/OC 
RAMHard DriveCoolingOS
PXD38G2133C11K Corsair Force 3 Noktua NH D14 Windows 8 
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post #17 of 19
I am just getting back into system building, so take this with a grain of salt. I do know a fair amount about cars, and radiators etc.... So I would think the same logic should apply.

You said one of your tubes is cold? It shouldn't be "cold". On a setup like you have, I would expect one of the tubes to be "less warm" but not cold. The radiator is not large enough, the tubes are not long enough etc....

If I had to guess, your have a air bubble. Air bubbles do not allow coolant to flow properly. If coolant is not flowing, then one side of your tubing should be hot, and one will be cold.

I would check if there is a purge valve on your system. My Antec setup has one.
post #18 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LukeJoseph View Post

You said one of your tubes is cold? It shouldn't be "cold".

You're right. I've decided that the pump simply wasn't working. Air bubbles or not, there wasn't any circulation (at least, that's what the evidence points to). If there was adequate circulation, the tubes wouldn't be hot and cold, they would be hot and warm. I rushed a Noctua NH-D14 to my house and it dropped my idle temp down to 29C. Now, my problem is figuring out how to get my money back for the Intel cooling block that almost fried my chip...

Thanks everyone for your input. I wanted to bark up every tree before I went buying up parts I didn't need.
post #19 of 19
Thread Starter 
And, just in case anybody was wondering, I did use a molex adapter to power the pump directly from the PSU, and it still didn't work.
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