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post #31 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneO View Post


If you ever decide to SLI in another GTX 670 you may come up short. I would go with the X-650 (or X-750). In addition to giving you some headroom, the X-650 is a newer (2012) improved model and has a 7 year warranty.
Well looks like my advice is a little too late biggrin.gif

 

It'll be enough, but it won't have enough PCI-E connectors and so he'll be forced to use adapters.

 

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_670_2_and_3way_sli_review,4.html

 

With two GTX 670s under full load in their system, their PSU pulled 433W from the wall outlet.  Their CPU was idling, so I have to add about 150W for an overclocked 3570K under full load, and this makes the PSU pulling 583w from the wall outlet.  So if the PSU is 85% efficient while pulling 583W from the wall outlet, then that means the system is pulling 495W from the PSU.

 

;)

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post #32 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

It'll be enough, but it won't have enough PCI-E connectors and so he'll be forced to use adapters.

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_670_2_and_3way_sli_review,4.html

With two GTX 670s under full load in their system, their PSU pulled 433W from the wall outlet.  Their CPU was idling, so I have to add about 150W for an overclocked 3570K under full load, and this makes the PSU pulling 583w from the wall outlet.  So if the PSU is 85% efficient while pulling 583W from the wall outlet, then that means the system is pulling 495W from the PSU.

wink.gif

I suppose that all depends on what you overclock on your CPU and GPUs and how many fans and other peripherals you have. For example I have 4 data drives so that is between 35-45 watts more there. I like to leave myself 100 watts margin. There isn't any good reason to cut it close IMO - the cost difference isn't that much.

For example, if I added a second SLI 660 Ti PE/OC to my rig that would push the sum of the maximum power of my components over 650W (and I haven't counted PCI-E and other motherboard loads). Fans, disks, USB perpherals, memory, etc. add up.
Edited by GeneO - 12/13/12 at 10:12pm
post #33 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneO View Post


I suppose that all depends on what you overclock on your CPU and GPUs and how many fans and other peripherals you have. For example I have 4 data drives so that is between 35-45 watts more there. I like to leave myself 100 watts margin. There isn't any good reason to cut it close IMO - the cost difference isn't that much.
For example, if I added a second SLI 660 Ti PE/OC to my rig that would push the sum of the maximum power of my components over 650W (and I haven't counted PCI-E and other motherboard loads). Fans, disks, USB perpherals, memory, etc. add up.

 

But that wouldn't be cutting it close because it's leaving 125W of headroom, and that's only if there's a simultaneous full load on the CPU and video cards.  For gaming, his system will probably never pull more than maybe 400 to 425W from the PSU.

 

For your system with two 660 Ti's, the power consumption calculation I performed for the GTX 670s can be used (but slightly less of course).

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post #34 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

But that wouldn't be cutting it close because it's leaving 125W of headroom, and that's only if there's a simultaneous full load on the CPU and video cards.  For gaming, his system will probably never pull more than maybe 400 to 425W from the PSU.

For your system with two 660 Ti's, the power consumption calculation I performed for the GTX 670s can be used (but slightly less of course).

Yes, won't really often get to high load. But I wouldn't want to ever run it near full load anyways. I have been buying based on 90% load and 10% capacitor aging. from the extreme PSU calculator I get 728W. Running games could be up to 500W on the GPUs and CPU alone. That is 60% of the CPU which sounds good to me.

But the truth is, the reason I bought and 850W was that my Antec TPN 650 was a crapper and wasn't handling my video card well and the Seasonic X-850 was dirt cheap (I was looking for a 750) wink.gif
post #35 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneO View Post


Yes, won't really often get to high load. But I wouldn't want to ever run it near full load anyways. I have been buying based on 90% load and 10% capacitor aging. from the extreme PSU calculator I get 728W. Running games could be up to 500W on the GPUs and CPU alone. That is 60% of the CPU which sounds good to me.
But the truth is, the reason I bought and 850W was that my Antec TPN 650 was a crapper and wasn't handling my video card well and the Seasonic X-850 was dirt cheap (I was looking for a 750) wink.gif

 

728W for what?  That sounds like a calculation for three GTX 660 Ti's with a large amount of fans and hard drives.

 

Can you perform the calculation again?  Except this time, click the calculator's built-in Print button, take a screenshot, save it as .PNG (jpg is too blurry for me), and upload it.  I want to see why it's recommending 728W.

 

I don't recommend that anyone use this calculator because it's too easy to get very incorrect results.

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post #36 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

728W for what?  That sounds like a calculation for three GTX 660 Ti's with a large amount of fans and hard drives.

Can you perform the calculation again?  Except this time, click the calculator's built-in Print button, take a screenshot, save it as .PNG (jpg is too blurry for me), and upload it.  I want to see why it's recommending 728W.

I don't recommend that anyone use this calculator because it's too easy to get very incorrect results.

No, why should I? You think I am stupid enough to input some bad data or lying? I have lots of fans and lots of hard drives and other peripherals and an 4.5 GHz overclocked CPU.

I don't know what t is with you guys that need to insist that people get the minimum power supply that they need - what are you out to prove?

The only things that matter in purchasing a PSU is that it will provide at least enough headroom for your future uses (many are warrantied for 7 years now), they are sufficiently efficient, and their build and power characteristics are quality, and their price (think amortized over 5-7 years).
Edited by GeneO - 12/16/12 at 9:20am
post #37 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneO View Post

No, why should I? You think I am stupid enough to input some bad data or lying? I have lots of fans and lots of hard drives and other peripherals and an 4.5 GHz overclocked CPU.
I don't know what t is with you guys that need to insist that people get the minimum power supply that they need - what are you out to prove?
Its much better to have a little to much power left on the PSU then too little
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post #38 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by shilka View Post

Its much better to have a little to much power left on the PSU then too little

I wholeheartedly agree.
post #39 of 60
How much can you spend on a PSU?
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post #40 of 60
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneO View Post


No, why should I? You think I am stupid enough to input some bad data or lying? I have lots of fans and lots of hard drives and other peripherals and an 4.5 GHz overclocked CPU.

 

No, I don't think that.  I wasn't even trying to imply it.  Did you really think that I would think that of a fellow OCN member?  This is me you're talking about.  I'm not just some random hater on the internet.

 

The thing is, everything we post on here is in the public eye.  I mean, an OCN account is not needed to view our posts.  Therefore, I don't want to sit here and do nothing when I see a post that I feel might have incorrect information based on my experience here on OCN.  I hope you feel the same way, and so I hope that you will be happy to make sure that this 728W figure is indeed accurate for your system.  If you don't want to do that, then I do understand.  Believe me.  However, for your system with one GTX 660 Ti, 728w is extremely high - even with 4 regular SATA hard drives (not to mention, one of them is green).

 

During my time here on OCN, I have seen lots and lots of people use the eXtreme Outer Vision calculator.  However, very few of them use it correctly because of how easy it is to make it give you a calculation that's way higher than what's actually needed.  This is thanks to the way they made their calculator, including some of their "recommended" values.  The PSU experts here on OCN taught me how to use this calculator in such a way so as to get the most realistic result possible thanks to the way eXtreme Outer Vision set it up.  However, even then this calculator is not accurate.  For example, most of the CPUs show the incorrect stock voltage.  This is because they didn't take the time to make sure to code in the correct stock voltage.  They just kind of used generic voltages that look a lot more like guesswork to me.

 

So if you are willing to make absolutely sure to show the public eye that this 728W calculation is absolutely correct for your system, then please do so.  I mean, even if it's a calculation for two 660 Ti's, it's still much higher than it ought to be.

 

That's why.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by GeneO View Post

I don't know what t is with you guys that need to insist that people get the minimum power supply that they need - what are you out to prove?
The only things that matter in purchasing a PSU is that it will provide at least enough headroom for your future uses (many are warrantied for 7 years now), they are sufficiently efficient, and their build and power characteristics are quality, and their price (think amortized over 5-7 years).

 

I'm not out to prove anything.  I always have two goals:

 

  • To enable people to spend less money where they can
  • To make it so that people no longer have to do any guesswork.  Knowledge is power.

 

So really, it's all about giving people the power of knowledge.  It's about facts.  It can sometimes be the difference between someone buying a 1200W power supply and a 550W power supply.  For some people who might get a 1200W unit but only need a 550W, that 550W would last them "forever".  I mean, I've come across people who are looking at buying a massive power supply, and then I come to find out that all they will ever have in their system at any given time is one video card.  When they find out, they usually react like "Omg, I had no idea that my system would draw such a small amount of power."

 

For the record, and in my defense, I never once told anyone that they should go out and get the absolute minimum that they need.  All I sometimes do is show where the bottom is.  That way, they know.  After all, knowledge is power.  It enables the buyer to make an informed decision.

 

Up until now, I always thought that everyone appreciated people who do what I do.  I guess I was wrong.  I apologize for having a desire to be useful.

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i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
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250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
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Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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It's a computer!
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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