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LightBoost, G-SYNC, Turbo240: 120Hz Strobe Backlight LCDs / No Motion Blur! - Page 134

post #1331 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bcider View Post

I mean maybe i can see them non lightboost but honestly I really can't tell lol. Anyway is there anyway to fix that?

Yes, at very high refresh rates scan-lines area a side-effect. A lot of 120+ Hz monitors have them if you look close enough. The overclockable Korean 1440P monitors have it really bad. So much so that ToastyX designed a contrast lowering utility that tried to cancel out the scan-line effect.
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post #1332 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by CallsignVega View Post

Yes, at very high refresh rates scan-lines area a side-effect. A lot of 120+ Hz monitors have them if you look close enough. The overclockable Korean 1440P monitors have it really bad. So much so that ToastyX designed a contrast lowering utility that tried to cancel out the scan-line effect.

It's weird that its only in the top upper right of the screen though.
post #1333 of 2929
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bcider View Post

It's weird that its only in the top upper right of the screen though.
It may be because that's the corner nearest or furthest away from the row/column drivers (one vertical edge and one horizontal edge). 120Hz pushes a lot of LCD technologies to near their limits, and it seems LightBoost apparently amplifies this significantly.

According to reverse engineering done by Marc, LightBoost uses an LCD scanout that's very fast -- similiar to the speed of a single 200Hz+ refresh -- to lengthen the time period between refreshes, to make it easier to wait for the refresh to settle.

Presently, it is a panel lottery whether or not you get the faint scanlines effect.
post #1334 of 2929
I hate to interrupt here, but does anyone know where to find an XL2411T anymore?
post #1335 of 2929
In which country?
post #1336 of 2929
While its not strictly light boost related - is there any good test which with I can tell the difference between a true 120 Hz stuff and 120 Hz at 60 Hz input and using interpolation ? Have a DSLR which is supposed to be able to do as low as 1/6000 exposure (although it would be probably very dark at such short exposure or I would need to ramp up ISO as far as it can drag it).


Am I doing the comparison correct ? Atm its still 60 Hz ofc and its with 1/250 exposure time - the little ghosting in front of the moving object is overdrive? Or I cant do it with a DSLR and need ultra high speed camera ? (top one DELL U2311H, bottom one IPAD retina replacement LCD hacked to work off a display port on a GFX card)

For background information its about hacking the ipad 4 screen. By its spec sheet it uses 60 Hz input but runs the screen at 120 Hz using interpolation. I'm trying to get it to run at higher refresh rate through EDID hacking and just slapping it with higher refresh rate signal (still working on it, EDID does not want to stick atm) but to know if I'm making any progress I need to be able to tell the difference by measuring it somehow - as while I might get my computer telling me that it sends out, lets say, 100 Hz signal I want to know if the display makes use of that refresh rate for input actually or just takes some frames and ignores the "overhead".

The spec sheet of the screen is intriguing btw, it seems to be claiming to support some kind of lightboost like stuff, as supported modes are 60 Hz input using interpolation for 120 and 240 Hz LCD refresh rate and something which is called "120 Hz + 120 Hz backlight" - problem with the second entry is I have no way of getting to the vsync signal as it bypasses the backlight control circuitry I'm using altogether. And ofc as the screen uses Displayport 1.1a then if my math is correct it does not have enough bandwidth for 2048x1536 @ 120 Hz as it will be approx 5% short. Max you can do at that reso is ~ 114.5 Hz with 8.64 Gbits / s I think.
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post #1337 of 2929
I have the XL2411T and with 10% LB plus 40% contrast (at 120 Hz) and the newest NVIDIA driver (320.49) I have relatively acceptable colors and no scan lines. You only see a little bit of purple in some very rare grey tones.
post #1338 of 2929
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vin97 View Post

I have the XL2411T and with 10% LB plus 40% contrast (at 120 Hz) and the newest NVIDIA driver (320.49) I have relatively acceptable colors and no scan lines. You only see a little bit of purple in some very rare grey tones.
What are your nVidia Control Panel settings?
As a starting point, favourite nVidia Control Panel settings has been:

nVidia Control Panel Desktop Brightness = 52
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Contrast = 45
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Gamma = 0.70

--or--

nVidia Control Panel Desktop Brightness = 50
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Contrast = 47
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Gamma = 0.85

These settings allows all shades to be seen in both Lagom Contrast and Lagom Black Level (http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/)
For my monitor, I like to set my monitor's Contrast setting to somewhere slightly below the white clipping point. On the VG278H, I use a Contrast=90%. On the VG248QE and XL2411T, it often needs to be closer to about 40%-50%, just like yours. This does not fix the tinting color issues that can come up with LightBoost (e.g. purple color), but it does undo most of the artificial gamma wash-out effect. On some monitors like VG278H, there is no LightBoost color tinting like the VG248QE.
post #1339 of 2929
"92% less motion blur (12x clearer) - 120 Hz LightBoost, set to 10% (1.4ms frame strobe flashes)"

So wait, at 10% it works better than 100%?

So I should set it on one "bar" on my XL2420T instead of the full 10 bars?
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post #1340 of 2929
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stige View Post

"92% less motion blur (12x clearer) - 120 Hz LightBoost, set to 10% (1.4ms frame strobe flashes)"

So wait, at 10% it works better than 100%?

So I should set it on one "bar" on my XL2420T instead of the full 10 bars?
Correct. Here's the motion blur graph, from the 60Hz vs 120Hz vs LightBoost page:



However, it's a brightness-versus-motion clarity tradeoff. Use ToastyX Strobelight so you can turn on/off lightboost (Ctrl+Alt+Plus / Ctrl+Alt+Minus) and change strobe brightness via hotkeys.

A good test is to use TestUFO moving photo test at www.testufo.com/#test=photo, view this page in a supported web browser. Turn ON/OFF LightBoost via the ToastyX Strobelight hotkey while viewing this. Change speed to 1440 pixels/second and change strobe brightness between 10% and 100%. You will notice that the windows become sharper in the Quebec photo (especially in the castle at the top) This motion test shows that LightBoost=10% produces clearer motion but is much dimmer.

But it's only an incremental improvement. Don't sacrifice too much brightness; a good compromise setting is LightBoost=50%
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