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LightBoost, G-SYNC, Turbo240: 120Hz Strobe Backlight LCDs / No Motion Blur! - Page 151

post #1501 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by qwkslvr View Post

I activated lightboost using the manual install for win8 according to the blurbusters site. I also used the ToastyX Strobelight Beta at one point to see if anything changes but it didn't help. What happens is, when I leave my win8 desktop on idle for 10-15 min, the screen goes black and i saw monitor power button go orange then after 2-3 seconds it powers up again (monitor power light turns blue) and my desktop goes back to non-lightboost (that's what I meant when I said I get kicked out of lightboost). It's the same 120hz but its non-lightboost.

My CRU is set to 1080p @ 120.004Hz that's it. All established resolutions on the left side are disabled and unchecked include extension block. Lightboost won't come back even if I were to run strobelight-setup again. I have to do a full reboot to get lightboost again. I have my power settings set to max performance and have every setting to prevent sleep/hybernate/auto log/suspend ... etc.

I really don't know what's causing this, perhaps a bug on win8? I'm using 320.49 drivers.

Ok. For your system to be able to be in a nonlightboosted 120hz there is some software somewhere that is letting your PC use it. Otherwise no matter what happens you shouldn't be able to use it.

Try this.. load up CRU. In the top pull down, delete every one of those profiles. You will then need to reboot. What this is doing is basically deleting any profiles that have been added over your PCs usage and then rebooting is reinstalling stock default profiles.. Now load up strobelight-setup.exe. In the first pull down you should see only one profile. This just confirms that all the others are gone which eliminates and crossed wires. . For refresh rates I've chosen 120hz strobed, 100hz strobed and 60hz nonlightboosted.. What this means for me is that your PC will only use 120hz but it will always be lightboosted.. Maybe now when your PC does what its doing it might only know to come back into 120hz so it can only be a lightboosted 120hz.. Then if for any reason you need nonlightboost you have the 60hz option.

Hope it helps..
post #1502 of 2929
Toastys Strobelight app worked for me in Windows 8 AND a Radeon card.

When it acted funky (because i kept disconnecting the monitor) - resetting the displays and rebooting and starting the whole process again made it a lot better. It wasnt trying to initialize displays everytime my system booted.
post #1503 of 2929
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToastyX View Post

Try uninstalling GeForce Experience.
+1
Try this too, as there was some wonky user reports with this. Not always, but...

Also if you run into problems, try right clicking on Strobelight and selecting "Reinitialize Displays". See if that helps you get back to LightBoost.
post #1504 of 2929
I have my CRU set to only have one profile (ACI27F8 - VG248) with no established resolutions checked and only have one detailed resolutions at 1080p @ 120.004Hz. Is it optional to add 100Hz and 60Hz because I have no need for them. (Include extension block also unchecked & nothing listed on standard resolutions).

Toastys Strobelight app definitely works. I can turn off strobe and on but when I get kicked off, I can't go back to strobe (even using Reinitialize Displays). This happens after i go on long periods of idle. The only solution I have is to do a complete reboot of my PC then I'm back on lightboost again.

I never had GeForce Experience installed (ever).
post #1505 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMaiden1973 View Post

Ok. For your system to be able to be in a nonlightboosted 120hz there is some software somewhere that is letting your PC use it. Otherwise no matter what happens you shouldn't be able to use it.

Try this.. load up CRU. In the top pull down, delete every one of those profiles. You will then need to reboot. What this is doing is basically deleting any profiles that have been added over your PCs usage and then rebooting is reinstalling stock default profiles.. Now load up strobelight-setup.exe. In the first pull down you should see only one profile. This just confirms that all the others are gone which eliminates and crossed wires. . For refresh rates I've chosen 120hz strobed, 100hz strobed and 60hz nonlightboosted.. What this means for me is that your PC will only use 120hz but it will always be lightboosted.. Maybe now when your PC does what its doing it might only know to come back into 120hz so it can only be a lightboosted 120hz.. Then if for any reason you need nonlightboost you have the 60hz option.

Hope it helps..

Quote:
Originally Posted by qwkslvr View Post

I have my CRU set to only have one profile (ACI27F8 - VG248) with no established resolutions checked and only have one detailed resolutions at 1080p @ 120.004Hz. Is it optional to add 100Hz and 60Hz because I have no need for them. (Include extension block also unchecked & nothing listed on standard resolutions).

Toastys Strobelight app definitely works. I can turn off strobe and on but when I get kicked off, I can't go back to strobe (even using Reinitialize Displays). This happens after i go on long periods of idle. The only solution I have is to do a complete reboot of my PC then I'm back on lightboost again.

I never had GeForce Experience installed (ever).

Please try what I said. And never use CRU again.. There is no need.. You're only making it harder on yourself by trying to get the job done with two different programs.. I use windows 8 64bit and with the steps I told you I have no problems at all.

The only reason I use 60hz non strobed is if for any reason I need to play with my graphics settings, I like to do it in non strobed mode and then when I'm done I just switch back to 120hz which I know is strobed and strobed only..

Having the best experience with no motion blur you really want to run you games at 1:1 resolutions. What I mean by that is, If BF3 only gets 104FPS max then run it at 100hz lightboost for 0 motion blur. If you use 120hz and are only getting 104fps you will get slight ghosting... Not a lot, but its not as perfect as syncing the refresh rate to the fps.. So I have 120 and 100 for various games.. Now my PC will never use 100 or 120hz refresh rates that AREN'T ligtboosted because I haven't told the PC that there is such a frequency to use.. It only knows boosted 120 and 100... ..


*edit, Oh I just noticed you said you have only one profile the ACI27F8 - VG248. Are you using this because you followed the CRU steps and injected it yourself or is it the profile that windows is choosing for you? If you go into your control panel. Select monitors. Right click on your monitor and select properties. select details. in the property pulldown down select Hardware IDs.. What does that value say?
Edited by IronMaiden1973 - 9/13/13 at 11:08pm
post #1506 of 2929
I didn't bother using 100/110 Hz of lightboost because I know my sli 4gb 680s can do the job. If not, I can always tweak settings to hit 120fps average. Also, 120hz lightboost look best & have the least input lag so I'll stick to that. I applied lightboost hack the manual way & not using the tool. I didn't use ToastyX's Strobelight until recently so I may experiment if it helps me not get kicked off lightboost. I have no trouble enabling lightboost hack.

Yes I followed the CRU steps and injected the profile. Windows did not choose this for me. I don't own an emitter. The Hardware ID is different from CRU. CRU displays ACI27F8 but hardware ID says ACI24E1.
post #1507 of 2929
Is there a faq I can read up on Lightboost and monitors?
post #1508 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by pack66 View Post

Is there a faq I can read up on Lightboost and monitors?

http://www.blurbusters.com/
post #1509 of 2929
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdrejhon View Post

All of them. All LightBoost monitors tend to benefit a lot. LightBoost mode causes nVidia to insert an artificial gamma bump (above and beyond what the hardware is doing), so these adjustments "undoes" the LightBoost gamma bleaching. It does darken LightBoost a bit, but the color saturation comes back.

LightBoost Gamma Fix
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Brightness = 52%
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Color = 45%
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Gamma = 0.70

--or--

LightBoost Gamma Fix Settings (LIGHTER / MILD VERSION)
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Brightness = 50%
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Color = 47%
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Gamma = 0.85

Alas, not all games "inherit" the Desktop adjustments, so adjust the in-game gamma downwards a little bit to compensate for the LightBoost bleach effect. However, these settings are precisely adjusted to allow you to see all shades at Lagom Contrast and Lagom Black Level on all LightBoost monitors (assuming the monitor Contrast isn't set too high -- clipping point is about Contrast OSD menu 90% for the VG278H, and about Contrast OSD menu 50% for VG248QE.)

For the contrast on my monitor, the settings on the actual monitor, not the Nvidia Control Panel, on the BenQ XL2420T, what should those settings be set to?
post #1510 of 2929
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SightUp View Post

For the contrast on my monitor, the settings on the actual monitor, not the Nvidia Control Panel, on the BenQ XL2420T, what should those settings be set to?
Just to clarify, I want to correct some minor errors in my old posts. It actually means:

LightBoost Gamma Fix
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Brightness = 52%
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Contrast = 45%
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Gamma = 0.70

--or--

LightBoost Gamma Fix Settings (LIGHTER / MILD VERSION)
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Brightness = 50%
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Contrast = 47%
nVidia Control Panel Desktop Gamma = 0.85


....For the monitor's Contrast, adjust to the point where you see all shades in Lagom Contrast without clipping, and without ugly tints (e.g. blue tints, pink tints, reddish tints). Usually, this is a monitor OSD contrast of about 45% on VG248QE's and about 90% on VG278H's.
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