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[Tom's Hardware]NH-D14 vs 4 Closed Loop Water (AIO) Showdown - Page 12

post #111 of 145
Ive been thinking about dropping my H60 for an NHD14. The H60 is alright but its loud. 2x 120mm fans at a constant 1850 rpm. Idle temps at 45-47, IBT tops out around 72C. Im sure the Noctua would match or beat those temps and be much quieter.

H100 is just too big and too expensive. If I were spending that much on a cooler, id probably spend a little more and get an XSPC kit. When they were under $100 it was different, now they are bumping up to
post #112 of 145
Quote:
Originally Posted by Recipe7 View Post

With my experience in the Philippines, any air cooler would not perform very well.
My x58 setup at 4.2ghz hit around 85-90C with my d14 when I lived in Cebu.
Here stateside, I hit 70C max on a nice Spring day.

Considering my i7 920 would hit 75-80 C on a custom watercooling setup with a 3x140mm radiator at 4.2 ghz, I don't think any cooler would do well in a high ambient situation with a 4.2 ghz Nehalem.
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post #113 of 145
What was your ambient with the NHD14 on your i7? Im usually around 75-77f , 24-25c.
post #114 of 145
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alatar View Post

I don't personally care about fan noise either, I have a compressor next to my rig and I used to run 5400rpm gentle typhoons tongue.gif
Similar fan noise is essential for a fair test though.
Wow, I didn't think anyone would be able to top my 480 cooler running at max (that was necessary for some benchmarks). I am shocked that anyone could tolerate that level of sound coming out of their computer.
post #115 of 145
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimaggio1103 View Post

Lol you even read artical, how is it superior if its cooling is less effective on CPU temp? I would instead call it maybe more practical but definitely not superior.

CPU temperature is not the only temperature of relevance. I was more than willing to sacrifice 3% of my clock speed on my i7 970 setup to lower VRM temps by ~20C and have my board last for 3-5 years instead of one.

Temperature itself is not the only factor of relevance. Cost, noise level, and reliability are important to most as well.

I said a high-end air cooler is often a superior option, overall, and this is absolutely true.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimaggio1103 View Post

I opted for closed loop vs the noctua because big coolers are torture to motherboards and I just cant stand the sag.

If you have a stiff board and a good mounting system, there is no sag. Not that a small amount of bending is anything to worry about.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimaggio1103 View Post

Call it a myth if you want I dont care if it is or aint. I just dont like seeing a huge dip on my motherboard from the weight, thats not a myth I have owned multiple big air coolers and every time it happens.
I care about pure cpu heat dissipation which is why I went CLC and slapped some quite high static fans on there, problem solved. Until I can afford a custom loop that is.

Two pounds with a center of gravity only 4 inches from the board isn't going to bend anything. The dip you are seeing isn't from the weight of the cooler, it's probably from the relative flexibility of most AM3 backplates.

My TRUE warps my AMD board by about 7cm. The same cooler, with higher pressure screws on any of my Intel boards doesn't bend the board at all, because the Intel back plates both have mounting holes that are closer to eachother, and that the backplate itself is about three times as thick.

I can bend most AMD backplates I've had with my fingers. I would need to put a 1366, 1155, or 2011 backplate in a vice and hit it with a hammer to do the same thing.

There are some good third party AM3 backplate/mounting hardware, but they aren't as common.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Majin SSJ Eric View Post

How do you explain this then?

Used the exact same fans on both coolers and guess what? The D14 (Silver Arrow to be exact) got owned by the H100i....

The Silver Arrow and the D14 have numerous differences.

Using very low pressure fans, the D14 is much better than the SIlver Arrow because the Arrow has much more densely packed fins. If you move to higher pressure fans, the tables turn and the Arrow can beat the D14.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Majin SSJ Eric View Post

So you really think adding a single 140mm fan (or just 20mm more fan size) will overcome a 5C gap do you? Lol...
What about adding two extra fans for the H100i? It can accomodate them... rolleyes.gif

A pair of larger, higher pressure fans will knock more than 5C off temps with a Silver Arrow. The same change to the D14 wouldn't do anywhere near as much, because the D14 is optimized for for roughly the air flow it's got stock (deeper, less tightly packed fins, and a lower/less wide fin stack).

The NF-F12s are possibly the worst fans you could use on the Silver Arrow, but are well suited for thin radiators and heatsinks with a less restrictive fin design.

The H100i at full speed usually still beats a stock Silver Arrow SB-E, in absolute CPU temps, but the difference is far less.
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post #116 of 145
@jprovido

Was you D14 installed with a non external exhaust grahpics card(s)? Was your CLC was intaking outside the case or had an external exhauting card?


http://images.hardwarecanucks.com/image//skymtl/GPU/EVGA-GTX-460-SC-EE/EVGA-GTX-460-SC-EE-77.jpg
A GTX 460 can make a 8 degree difference at load. This review says 4, but the reference cooler still exhaust half the hot air outside! This scenario could explain your lackluster D14 temperatures.
 
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post #117 of 145
I was actually thinking about going with the D14 instead of an H100i in a month or so, but this article definitely helped me out. D14 here you come. thumb.gif
post #118 of 145
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blameless View Post

CPU temperature is not the only temperature of relevance. I was more than willing to sacrifice 3% of my clock speed on my i7 970 setup to lower VRM temps by ~20C and have my board last for 3-5 years instead of one.

Ya a simple fan will fix that issue. I have a 4.6GHz OC on my 6300 and battle VRM throttling constantly, but you know how I fixed that? I just put a small fan above them.....problem fixed. I even had the throttling on a big air cooler I just got rid of. It was no noctua but principles were the same. So the VRM issue is massively overstated. I would also love to see proof having a noctua blowing on the VRMs will extend the mobo life by years.

I dont sacrifice any clock speeds, or life of my board. The true test will come when I get my 990FX board but If I can make it work on this lower end 970 board with only 4+2 phases then I think im good.

Also with the noctua as I have said before you have no room to move things around and often requires low profile ram. There is alot of compensation for a cooler that still losses by a few degrees.
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post #119 of 145
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimaggio1103 View Post

Ya a simple fan will fix that issue. I have a 4.6GHz OC on my 6300 and battle VRM throttling constantly, but you know how I fixed that? I just put a small fan above them.....problem fixed. I even had the throttling on a big air cooler I just got rid of. It was no noctua but principles were the same. So the VRM issue is massively overstated. I would also love to see proof having a noctua blowing on the VRMs will extend the mobo life by years.
I dont sacrifice any clock speeds, or life of my board. The true test will come when I get my 990FX board but If I can make it work on this lower end 970 board with only 4+2 phases then I think im good.
Also with the noctua as I have said before you have no room to move things around and often requires low profile ram. There is alot of compensation for a cooler that still losses by a few degrees.

I do not considering being forced to use the cheap & highly OCable Samsung Green ULV a lot of compensation. If I had to change the 8pin cable or my Top fan or my Rams every hour for benching then maybe it makes a difference, but I don't have to do any of those. If I had a need for splurge on DDR3-2666 Dominator or Trident X then maybe a CLC make sense but 2133 Cas 11(which is no where close to the limit of these Samsung Rams) is plenty fast for what I do.
Quote:
My TRUE warps my AMD board by about 7cm. The same cooler, with higher pressure screws on any of my Intel boards doesn't bend the board at all, because the Intel back plates both have mounting holes that are closer to eachother, and that the backplate itself is about three times as thick.

I can bend most AMD backplates I've had with my fingers. I would need to put a 1366, 1155, or 2011 backplate in a vice and hit it with a hammer to do the same thing

I agree, although all I have used are Intel Boards they are all very solid, haven't observed any bending from my 14PE.
Edited by sherlock - 1/2/13 at 9:27am
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post #120 of 145
Quote:
Originally Posted by sherlock View Post

I do not considering being forced to use the cheap & highly OCable Samsung Green ULV a lot of compensation. If I had to change the 8pin cable or my Top fan or my Rams every hour for benching then maybe it makes a difference, but I don't have to do any of those. If I had a need for splurge on DDR3-2666 Dominator or Trident X then maybe a CLC make sense but 2133 Cas 11(which is no where close to the limit of these Samsung Rams) is plenty fast for what I do.
On an Intel system, is there any noticeable increase in performance from extremely high performance RAM, if you are using a dedicated GPU?
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