Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Other Hardware Mods › DIY RGB AmbiLight
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

DIY RGB AmbiLight - Page 14

post #131 of 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvjessen View Post

I do respect that these are not open/free standards, you have to pay like $10K/year to do HDMI development and I'm pretty sure even if you paid that, then doing things with the HDCP will not keep you in good standing, or you might actually get a valid key, not sure about that, but anyway, I have no intention of paying that kind of licence fee to publish a design.

I really like this project and i understand your reluctance to share the sourecode, but apparently, there is (as far as i can tell) no problem with homebuilt projects, or HDMI police isn't paying close attention smile.gif
http://hackaday.com/2012/01/21/overlaying-video-on-encrypted-hdmi-connections/
Bunnie has presented a man-in-the-middle attack on a HDCP-secured HDMI connection, at the latest (28th?)C3, and has been covered in the specialized media quit well. The hardware is even being sold at adafruit.

Maybe this can convince you? biggrin.gif
Edited by vanthijs - 5/22/13 at 9:46am
post #132 of 234
While googling around on progress of others I found this thread on DIY Ambilight. Seems like a LOT of people are still interested in standalone ambilight.

In 2009 I designed and build one of the first DIY ambilights that could work as a moodlight using a RF remote and also through USB with boblight. Since then, I got a lot of questions regularly on one of my youtube channels if a complete standalone ambilight would be possible and if I could make it.. Got bothered with so many questions so last year I decided to start with a HDMI and Displayport 10% standalone ambilight project.

Result is that about three months ago I got a working prototype that processes the displayport signal from my mac to LED-strips. All signal processing and some math(non-linear transitions for example) is done inside two high speed ARM controllers with some more chips around.


Here is proof-of-concept:


I'm now working on a version without too many wire hacks so it fits in a nice box with connectors.

If you have any questions.. just ask and I'll try to answer. smile.gif
post #133 of 234
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LEMF View Post

While googling around on progress of others I found this thread on DIY Ambilight. Seems like a LOT of people are still interested in standalone ambilight.

In 2009 I designed and build one of the first DIY ambilights that could work as a moodlight using a RF remote and also through USB with boblight. Since then, I got a lot of questions regularly on one of my youtube channels if a complete standalone ambilight would be possible and if I could make it.. Got bothered with so many questions so last year I decided to start with a HDMI and Displayport 10% standalone ambilight project.

Result is that about three months ago I got a working prototype that processes the displayport signal from my mac to LED-strips. All signal processing and some math(non-linear transitions for example) is done inside two high speed ARM controllers with some more chips around.


Here is proof-of-concept:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I'm now working on a version without too many wire hacks so it fits in a nice box with connectors.

If you have any questions.. just ask and I'll try to answer. smile.gif

Welcome to OCN.

Nice work on the ambilight, you should do a thread on it so people can ask you questions. That should give me less requests to reply to, in my thread biggrin.gif
post #134 of 234
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanthijs View Post

I really like this project and i understand your reluctance to share the sourecode, but apparently, there is (as far as i can tell) no problem with homebuilt projects, or HDMI police isn't paying close attention smile.gif
http://hackaday.com/2012/01/21/overlaying-video-on-encrypted-hdmi-connections/
Bunnie has presented a man-in-the-middle attack on a HDCP-secured HDMI connection, at the latest (28th?)C3, and has been covered in the specialized media quit well. The hardware is even being sold at adafruit.

Maybe this can convince you? biggrin.gif

Nah, it doesn't change anything for me. Just because most people speed on the freeway doesn't make it OK biggrin.gif

But I have a few ideas for a version using other products so I wouldn't have to deal with the HDMI directly, it's just a matter of finding time and motivation.
post #135 of 234
Thread Starter 
I got some new parts and did some work on the remote control. I can believe I can now make a version that I'm comfortable with.

Here is how I mapped the remote control buttons:





And a quick video of me playing with the remote: (TV is 42" Plasma)



As usual the colors aren't 100% correct and it actually does light up the whole room on highest brightness with 180 LEDs.
post #136 of 234
Thread Starter 
I am considering adding bluetooth support and writing a small Android app so I can change settings from my phone and tablet.

It's a bit limited using 2 buttons on a remote to change colors, so a small app would be ideal.

And I got some new LEDs for more experiments: (4 meters of 60 LEDs per meter)





I guess the cat lost interest by the time I got the camera ready smile.gif
post #137 of 234
Thread Starter 
Another thing I have been working on is creating some mounting for the LEDs so they are set at an angle.

This is what I've come up with so far, wedges:





And a few printed ones, kind of hard to see the details as they are all black, but while not so pretty, they've got the right shape smile.gif





I guess I could include some small neodymium magnets in them, if I had some.
post #138 of 234
Thread Starter 
A slightly more advanced version for the LED mounting:



These take 2 small neodymium disc magnets and then just snap together with a bit of glue. Mounting the LEDs at an angle gives much better results compared to flat mounting on the back.


Also spend some time optimizing the LED output routine, it was previously running at the slower ~400KHz mode, just a quick piece of C code outputting the 24 RGB bits per LED one at a time. But I really wanted 800KHz, and more accurate timing, so I rewrote it in assembly, it's got pretty much perfect timing now and it only takes half the time to update the LEDs.



Doesn't get any better than that, but it's a bit fiddly to write and time consuming to sit and count instruction cycles to get the right timing in all code branches.
post #139 of 234
I used magnets 6mm diameter and 6mm height with 3mm hole (they are actually tubes for screws) http://www.guysmagnets.com/view-product/14-x-18-x-14-neodymium-ring -- 3pcs on side (75cm) and 4pcs on top (95cm).
dust everywhere = on my 50inch TV. Remember, magnes need direct contact to perfect hold. (they are fixed like nailed) Don't put them too far (I mean 1mm) from steel plate -- they could fall off the TV. You can test remove force by removing magnet with increasing distance (non.magnetic) spacers.
Edited by stevesigma - 6/2/13 at 10:59pm
post #140 of 234
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevesigma View Post

I used magnets 6mm diameter and 6mm height with 3mm hole (they are actually tubes for screws) http://www.guysmagnets.com/view-product/14-x-18-x-14-neodymium-ring -- 3pcs on side (75cm) and 4pcs on top (95cm).
dust everywhere = on my 50inch TV. Remember, magnes need direct contact to perfect hold. (they are fixed like nailed) Don't put them too far (I mean 1mm) from steel plate -- they could fall off the TV. You can test remove force by removing magnet with increasing distance (non.magnetic) spacers.

It is good advice thumb.gif

The magnets I use are 13x3mm neodymium N40 grade disc magnets, really much too powerful for this purpose, but the smallest suitable ones I could find in my local hobby shops.

I do have a ~0.75mm PLA layer between my magnets and the back of the tv, so if we try simulate the little holders I use:

First with 1 mm distance to back of TV and magnets mounted in same polarity:



And then with the discs in opposite polarity:



And with direct contact, 0mm distance, same polarity:



and direct contact opposite polarity:




All the plots are on the same density scale for easy comparison, and the conclusion is that I have taken this way too far biggrin.gif .. but besides that we can see that there is little difference as long as the distance is within 1mm from the back side of the TV and it's much more important that the magnets are mounted in opposite polarity.

OK, this is much too detailed an analysis, sorry about that redface.gif, the real reason I want a piece of plastic between the magnets and the TV is to avoid scratches and that neodymium magnets are very brittle, a quick snap against iron can easily crack the magnets.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Other Hardware Mods
Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Other Hardware Mods › DIY RGB AmbiLight