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DIY RGB AmbiLight - Page 10

post #91 of 234
Jessen,

Adafruit has a few suggestions on powering long LED strips. I hope they are helpful. smile.gif Look forward to your final design. biggrin.gif Are you going to mount the LEDS on MDF ? That black square on your pictures.
post #92 of 234
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crevice View Post

Jessen,

Adafruit has a few suggestions on powering long LED strips. I hope they are helpful. smile.gif Look forward to your final design. biggrin.gif Are you going to mount the LEDS on MDF ? That black square on your pictures.

Thanks, it's really simple actually, the +5V and GND are just rails (just copper traces running through the LED strips), but as 180 LEDs consume up to 7.5A and with 5V supply there isn't much headroom, I believe these LEDs require 3.6V (at least one of the colors) for full intensity (~20mA) so with a 3M long copper trace it's expected the resistance and load will create a voltage drop, and it appears to be more than 1.4V at full load.

So what I did was simply connecting the power like this:



That solves the problem and the voltage drop will be minimal, and have no effect as the ws2811 controllers use current sensing. If using very long strips, e.g. 5-6 meters, it would make sense to also inject supply in the middle of the strip and use some thick wires for the supply.

I just use thin double sided tape to mount the LEDs, works fine. (the black square is a floor tile biggrin.gif)
post #93 of 234
Hi. I was thinking about almost exactly same project. I'm just in the thinking part smile.gif. After you finish your project, will you share schematics and source with the world so others like me would not have to start from zero? Also on page 3 you have said it can be conected to ps3. So it can work with hdcp protected content?

Realy nice work with this ambilight clone. thumb.gif Will watch this thread closely.
post #94 of 234
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by maarky View Post

Hi. I was thinking about almost exactly same project. I'm just in the thinking part smile.gif. After you finish your project, will you share schematics and source with the world so others like me would not have to start from zero? Also on page 3 you have said it can be conected to ps3. So it can work with hdcp protected content?

Realy nice work with this ambilight clone. thumb.gif Will watch this thread closely.

Thanks and welcome to OCN smile.gif

It works with anything that outputs a HDMI signal, I've tested successfully 1080p and there should not be any problems with resolutions below that.

However I'm not even sure I'll ever really complete this project, but maybe.
post #95 of 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvjessen View Post

Thanks and welcome to OCN smile.gif

It works with anything that outputs a HDMI signal, I've tested successfully 1080p and there should not be any problems with resolutions below that.

However I'm not even sure I'll ever really complete this project, but maybe.

Oh OK. It would be really shame when you have got so far. I should start on my own than. Really great ideas in this thread. I will use some of them in my own ambilight. Thanks for quick answer. OCN is really nice place.
Edited by maarky - 2/14/13 at 8:15am
post #96 of 234
Hey, watch this project, good work. Also, some time dealing with the possibility of building ammbilight without a PC, using the output RGB or s-video. It is possible somewhere to see more parts of your building, like the wiring diagram and photo of the building?
post #97 of 234
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jantar66 View Post

Hey, watch this project, good work. Also, some time dealing with the possibility of building ammbilight without a PC, using the output RGB or s-video. It is possible somewhere to see more parts of your building, like the wiring diagram and photo of the building?

Hi and welcome smile.gif

Yeah I think an Ambilight wihtout needing a PC is something new (unless you use a Philips TV of course, as they invented, or bought the company that started this)

So if you got the R-G-B signals available it's very simple really, for VGA it is just 0-0.7V analog signal, just need to read the H and V Sync and then sample the color channels at a reasonable interval, I'd say you would probably need a 3-6 MSPS ADC for good results, the rest is just coding.
post #98 of 234
Hey, something new in your project?
post #99 of 234
Just a few mounting tips:
Steel plate is bent to hold the shape. Steel acts like heatsink. Magnets are glued with superglue to steel profiles. Back of TV is ordinary Fe plate (magnets stick to it). I can move and remove it anytime. Only warm white (no RGB, no driver, simple candle light).
dust everywherebottom profile is bent to match TV shapeconnected from middle
Edited by stevesigma - 4/2/13 at 12:45am
post #100 of 234
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevesigma View Post

Just a few mounting tips:
Steel plate is bent to hold the shape. Steel acts like heatsink. Magnets are glued with superglue to steel profiles. Back of TV is ordinary Fe plate (magnets stick to it). I can move and remove it anytime. Only warm white (no RGB, no driver, simple candle light). Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
dust everywherebottom profile is bent to match TV shapeconnected from middle

That is a very nice and impressive mounting design you got there thumb.gif

I do want to do some brackets, not so much for easy removal etc. but my TV is visible from one side due to an L shaped room. So I want to prevent any direct view of the LEDs. But also I've noticed that due to the less than flat TV I have, there is a slight shadow (actually I believe the correct terms are umbra and penumbra) forming above the center, so I want to angle the LEDs slightly.

I think I'll just 3D print some, it should be very simple.
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