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Tygon User Club - Page 4

Poll Results: What is your favorite Tygon tubing?

 
  • 20% (12)
    A-60G Norprene
  • 5% (3)
    B-44-4X
  • 17% (10)
    E-1000
  • 5% (3)
    R-3400
  • 39% (23)
    R-3603
  • 1% (1)
    B-44-4X IB
  • 5% (3)
    Tygon Silver
  • 5% (3)
    Tygon 2075
58 Total Votes  
post #31 of 100
clear tubing will cloud up sooner or later no matter what.
I've used tygon R-3400 black tubing for the past 2 years and I'm really satisfied with the product. I will try the norprene tubing when I do my next maintainace.
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Cappuccino
(21 items)
 
LinuxBox
(10 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 7700K ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming-ITX/ac Gigabyte GTX1080 G1 Corsair Vengeance LED 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 Pro Toshiba OCZ RD400 M.2 Toshiba OCZ VX500 Western Digital Black 
Optical DriveCoolingOSOS
Panasonic UJ-265 Noctua NH-L9x65 Arch Linux Windows 10 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
BenQ BL2711U MiniVan | HHKB | Novatouch Corsair SF600 NCase M1 (V5) 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Zowie EC1-A Steelseries DEX Sennheiser PC360 Philips Fidelio X2 
Other
Microsoft Xbox One Controller 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD A-series A4-3400 Gigabyte GA-A75N-USB3 Gigabyte Radeon HD6450 Kingston HyperX 
Hard DriveCoolingOSPower
Crucial M4 AMD phenom2 1100T heatsink OpenSUSE Silverstone ST45SF 
Case
Chieftec BT-02B 
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post #32 of 100
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eze2kiel View Post

Consultation ...
I have the fittings Koolance ID 1/2 OD 5/8.
The question is ... When you connect them the Tygon E-1000 ID 1/2 OD 5/8 I feel that is a touch dodgy. That is, if you throw it out with the coupling of the fitting position.
In this case what would have to do to keep hoses out when the circuit is in operation?
Watching this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNbJ3vQnVLw, the guy has the same dimensions of fitting together the nuts these to be put after the fitting.

Then? What do I do?
So I put them fitting or need to add a bracket for each fitting?
It happens that I want to use those of the fitting nuts to make it all of Koolance ...
What do you recommend? Ask before changing the hoses so that after a disaster is not made.
Do not tell me you would have to have bought smaller hose ID ...

 

I can't really understand what you're saying the English is too broken.

post #33 of 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by WebsterXC View Post

I can't really understand what you're saying the English is too broken.

Ok, sorry for my bad english.

I've a Tygon E-1000 1/2 ID - 5/8 OD

The question is... Which connectors should I use?

Currently I have the Koolance: http://koolance.com/nozzle-single-compression-for-13mm-x-16mm-1-2in-x-5-8in

I see that the hose is loose ...

What do you suggest?

PS: I don't want to put clamps.
post #34 of 100
Guys:

I need you to tell me if this hose: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_414&products_id=37353

Goes well with my fittings: http://koolance.com/nozzle-single-compression-for-13mm-x-16mm-1-2in-x-5-8in

PS: If possible, I need to know if it is soft or rigid.
If it is soft as E-1000 directly Tygon not buy.

I await response.

Thank you!
post #35 of 100
Thread Starter 
E-1000 tubing is really waxy, therefore it slides right out of compressions. E-3603 is a tubing I used to run; it's a little softer than Primochill's tubing, but just enough to give it a great bend radius. I highly recommend E-3603. And yes, the tubing and fittings you linked will work together. Tubing is only rigid if it says rigid (the only manufacturer of rigid tubing in the PC industry is Primochill), so don't worry about getting the wrong thing.
post #36 of 100
I have my system built, but still working on the water cooling. I have been planning on using the Tygon E-1000 1/2 x 3/4 and have about 20' of it. I have a bunch of the Koolance QD4 G 3/8 quick release compression fittings, and in a test I was able to pull the tubing out of the fitting -- but NOT very easily. Certainly that level of force would not be occurring naturally. I was hoping that the E-1000 would not cloud up, but apparently it will. Has there been ANY tubing that doesn't cloud up at all? Or is really going to be the case that the tubing will need to be replaced on a regular basis no matter what you do?

Using the quick release connectors allows me to easily prime each part of the system and to replace each piece of tubing quickly and efficiently without a complete system takedown. At an effective cost of around $25 per connection, just the cost of the connectors is really high. I have four GTX Black Ice 560 radiators, two pumps and I plan on putting all of the water cooling in its own case (allowing up to 50 fans) so that the only water cooling in the main computer is the connections to the water blocks (CPU, motherboard and one graphics card). That minimizes the chance of a leak and also moves all of the heat outside of the main computer. A separate cooling case even allows me to introduce sub-ambient if I want. It also means that the water cooling doesn't change when I upgrade the computer.
post #37 of 100
Thread Starter 
E-1000 comes from the factory with a natural cloud to it because it's "plasticizer-free". E-1000 does not cloud in a loop because it doesn't contain the plasticizers that cause clouding.

The only tubing proven to not cloud is Primochill Advanced LRT. Your other option would be to use rigid acrylic tubing.
post #38 of 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by WebsterXC View Post

E-1000 comes from the factory with a natural cloud to it because it's "plasticizer-free". E-1000 does not cloud in a loop because it doesn't contain the plasticizers that cause clouding.

E1000 still contains plasticisers. That's what make the tube flexible. It's just that they are non-DEHP, which means they are safe for use with foodstuffs.

http://www.cmscientific.com/info_sheets/Tygon_E-1000.pdf

The reason Tygon tubing isn't very good at staying clear is because it's not designed to do so. Their customers generally don't care about clouding. St Gobain probably doesn't even know that water cooling enthusiasts are using their tubing.
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post #39 of 100
It isn't whether or not it contains plasticizer, but rather whether or not it leaches. If it starts out cloudy (and, it is slightly), but doesn't change that is ok. I don't really care if it is crystal clear, I don't display it. I just don't want crap in my water blocks.

WebsterXC's post is conflicting: "E-1000 does not cloud in a loop" and "The only tubing proven to not cloud is Primochill Advanced LRT" can't both be true.
post #40 of 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

E1000 still contains plasticisers. That's what make the tube flexible. It's just that they are non-DEHP, which means they are safe for use with foodstuffs.

http://www.cmscientific.com/info_sheets/Tygon_E-1000.pdf

The reason Tygon tubing isn't very good at staying clear is because it's not designed to do so. Their customers generally don't care about clouding. St Gobain probably doesn't even know that water cooling enthusiasts are using their tubing.

I have these ones, but they are not set up. I wanted them because I want to run environment friendly, which will also be good for my health. Since the hot water breaks down the hose, tube chemicals will eventually get out in the air.
I'm just afraid that they are so loose. They will be easy to break out from a fitting, but to set them up, I guess I need to wrap strong ties around the hose.

I would actually stay out of the silver tube. Silver is toxic.
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