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Last minute advice with my watercooling

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
My first time with water etc etc. Camera just died earlier today so had to use phone camera.

Right now I got the blocks installed. I am on the looping step. I have felt pretty confident up until this point. I could use some help as I feel there is probably a better way this could be done. Nothing is clamped down yet and will be easy to redo. Right now I have Res Pump Cpu block Gpu block Rad Res. I should of bought a pump res combo but I already had a res and it was just cheaper to stick with that.




You can also see if have card board shunts holding the radiator in place. There is about 3mm on each side of the rad and it wobbled so I put those there. Anyone have any better ideas for holding the rad in place? I would of screwed it into the front via the fans but they don't line up perfectly.

Case is a 550d and the rad is an alphacool monta 240.
post #2 of 11
Welcome to the wet side! thumb.gif

First I'll give you the short answer about how best to solve those tube runs: angle adapters. Just map out what you have and figure out the combination of 90 and 45 degree adapters to make those tube connections straighter. But I would recommend redoing the loop a little because I really don't like that pump just hanging out in space. It's hard to tell but it doesn't look to be mounted in any way. eek.gifeek.gif You need to hard-mount the pump somehow before turning it on.

Now here's the long answer: I've got some other concerns seeing those photos.

1) Your tubing looks kinked in a few places, most noticeably on both sides of the tube connecting the GPU block and whatever you have in the lower drive bay (the rad?). It's hard to tell from the photos but it looks like there could be kinks in other places as well. You don't want kinked tubes as that restricts flow, and could potentially collapse which would stop flow entirely. Kinks are also an indication that your bends are too sharp which puts strain on the fittings. Which leads me to...

2) Am I correct that you are not using zip ties or any clamps? eek.gif Some people claim they have done this for years etc. without problems, but I would personally never run the risk of having a tube pop off. Especially given some of the bends in your tubes, that's really asking for a disaster. In your second photo it looks like one of the tube connections coming from the pump into the device in the upper drive bay (is that a res?) isn't seated completely as it is so you really, really need to use clamps of some kind.

3) Getting back to the pump. A pump is a mechanical device and generates a lot of vibration so it needs to be hard mounted. Especially if you aren't using clamps (which again, you should)--that is truly a catastrophe waiting to happen. IMO it also looks ugly hanging out there at that weird angle.

4) What CPU block is that? It's usually best to have the inlet and outlet ports lined up horizontally instead of vertically as you have it.
Edited by threephi - 1/11/13 at 3:19pm
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post #3 of 11
Oh about the res: what precisely doesn't line up? Normally you mount the res through the fan mounting screws (you need the correct length of course), and since that's a standard measurement and from what I can tell by quickly looking at that case online, there should be a lot of places to mount a 240 without problems.

Get some neoprene or other rubbery material if you need to shim it a little.
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post #4 of 11
I disagree on the pump just hanging out.
I think a pump holding by it's hoses properly fastened is the best way to decouple a pump for noise.
Also.angled fittings might make it look better (suggestive) but they ad more restrictions to the loop. But you should use them if it would prevent your tubes from kinking.

And the rig looks good dude, excellent cable management job!

Cheers cheers.gif
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post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by threephi View Post

Welcome to the wet side! thumb.gif

First I'll give you the short answer about how best to solve those tube runs: angle adapters. Just map out what you have and figure out the combination of 90 and 45 degree adapters to make those tube connections straighter. But I would recommend redoing the loop a little because I really don't like that pump just hanging out in space. It's hard to tell but it doesn't look to be mounted in any way. eek.gifeek.gif You need to hard-mount the pump somehow before turning it on.

Now here's the long answer: I've got some other concerns seeing those photos.

1) Your tubing looks kinked in a few places, most noticeably on both sides of the tube connecting the GPU block and whatever you have in the lower drive bay (the rad?). It's hard to tell from the photos but it looks like there could be kinks in other places as well. You don't want kinked tubes as that restricts flow, and could potentially collapse which would stop flow entirely. Kinks are also an indication that your bends are too sharp which puts strain on the fittings. Which leads me to...

2) Am I correct that you are not using zip ties or any clamps? eek.gif Some people claim they have done this for years etc. without problems, but I would personally never run the risk of having a tube pop off. Especially given some of the bends in your tubes, that's really asking for a disaster. In your second photo it looks like one of the tube connections coming from the pump into the device in the upper drive bay (is that a res?) isn't seated completely as it is so you really, really need to use clamps of some kind.

3) Getting back to the pump. A pump is a mechanical device and generates a lot of vibration so it needs to be hard mounted. Especially if you aren't using clamps (which again, you should)--that is truly a catastrophe waiting to happen. IMO it also looks ugly hanging out there at that weird angle.

4) What CPU block is that? It's usually best to have the inlet and outlet ports lined up horizontally instead of vertically as you have it.
I am not using hose clamps YET. The tubing in use is the cheapest stuff I could find at the local hardware store. It kinks up pretty easy. I have some tygon that can actually make those bends. You are correct though, that the tubing does in fact look like it is near kinking in a few places. I just used the cheap stuff to put my plan into action before actually doing it.

A pump is a mechanical drive and does vibrate and I read from several places that one could hang the pump so that its vibrations are not heard. I am not one for making everything look perfect as long as it works well. Just the way the pump hangs there looks funny to me and is why I made this thread.

That is the DD mc-tdx. All the watercooling parts have been accumulated over time except for the gpu block and the rad. When I put the cpu block on that is just how it seemed like it had to go. Maybe I was wrong because I don't see a reason it shouldn't be able to go horizontal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by threephi View Post

Oh about the res: what precisely doesn't line up? Normally you mount the res through the fan mounting screws (you need the correct length of course), and since that's a standard measurement and from what I can tell by quickly looking at that case online, there should be a lot of places to mount a 240 without problems.

Get some neoprene or other rubbery material if you need to shim it a little.
I was thinking some kinda rubber material. Not sure what yet. I had to cut out the bottom of my drive bay to fit that thing in there. It is a really think rad if you can not tell in the picture, it is 80mm thick and could only fit right there. The rad does not line up with the front two fans holes for me to secure it that way. That is because of the little port filler thing on the bottom. I already cut out the bottom of the drive bay. Maybe I should cut a whole to make that little thing go through.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

I disagree on the pump just hanging out.
I think a pump holding by it's hoses properly fastened is the best way to decouple a pump for noise.
Also.angled fittings might make it look better (suggestive) but they ad more restrictions to the loop. But you should use them if it would prevent your tubes from kinking.

And the rig looks good dude, excellent cable management job!

Cheers cheers.gif
Im glad you mentioned that the pump being decoupled like that is fine.

I hope the cabling looks good as there is nothing cabled yet.
Edited by james888 - 1/11/13 at 3:55pm
post #6 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by james888 View Post

I hope the cabling looks good as there is nothing cabled yet.
Ha! That explains a lot. LOL biggrin.gif
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post #7 of 11
I personally wouldn't feel at all comfortable hanging that much weight off of a fitting, but to each his own. By hard mount I do mean still using some kind of padding to insulate vibrations. Anyway one of the great things about watercooling is that there are so many different approaches in how to set it up. The bottom line is just to make sure it's secure and safe.

I recall seeing some some data on skinnee or martin's when I was researching for my loop that a few angles don't have much impact on flow, especially if they're "soft" angles like 45's or dual-rotary 90's instead of the smaller ones, so you need to balance that against the need to eliminate kinks and simplify and shorten the tube runs. Again, everyone has their own sweet spot on that.

I didn't realize these were photos of a mock-up, so that relieves a lot of my concern. And since it's your first build I wasn't sure how much you had a handle on everything, but it sounds like you have a good approach. Especially if you're comfortable doing some case modding to make it all fit thumb.gif It probably shouldn't be that hard to figure out some kind of home-made bracket to mount the rad to.
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post #8 of 11
ewps..little late to say"Build a bong"
 
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Thuban Powah!
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post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by threephi View Post

I personally wouldn't feel at all comfortable hanging that much weight off of a fitting, but to each his own. By hard mount I do mean still using some kind of padding to insulate vibrations. Anyway one of the great things about watercooling is that there are so many different approaches in how to set it up. The bottom line is just to make sure it's secure and safe.

I recall seeing some some data on skinnee or martin's when I was researching for my loop that a few angles don't have much impact on flow, especially if they're "soft" angles like 45's or dual-rotary 90's instead of the smaller ones, so you need to balance that against the need to eliminate kinks and simplify and shorten the tube runs. Again, everyone has their own sweet spot on that.

I didn't realize these were photos of a mock-up, so that relieves a lot of my concern. And since it's your first build I wasn't sure how much you had a handle on everything, but it sounds like you have a good approach. Especially if you're comfortable doing some case modding to make it all fit thumb.gif It probably shouldn't be that hard to figure out some kind of home-made bracket to mount the rad to.

Thanks for the concern. I do have some newer ideas. Still looking for ideas though. The question is more where to put a bracket without blocking anything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schmuckley View Post

ewps..little late to say"Build a bong"
Would not of done it anyways. I did really consider doing a wind tunnel.

http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/144731-the-wind-tunnel-computer-that-hopes-to-conquer-cancer
Edited by james888 - 1/12/13 at 12:51am
post #10 of 11
Thread Starter 
What if I went connected the pump to the res with a little 1/4 to 1/4 thread peice. That or velcro except I am not sure where I would velcro it to, unless I did the pump higher than the res. Maybe I could hang it from the top some how. I may have to make a long tube run and mount it at the bottom of my case.
Edited by james888 - 1/15/13 at 1:40am
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