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My first PC build - Some feedback would be great :)

post #1 of 65
Thread Starter 
Hi everyone,

In about a months time I'm going to be building my first Gaming PC rig ever and was hoping to pick the brains of other rig builders on this forum.

The rig design is as follows:

Not including in the picture is the case, which will be a Shinobi XL



The couple of questions i have are:

- Do I have an appropriate Power Supply?
- How much performance does the 4gb GTX680 have over the 2gb version?
- Is it recommended to have the rig water cooled?
- What features of the rig would be deemed unnecessary in the build?

My idea for this rig was to have future proofing in mind for when future upgrades are available. But anything in the build that seems abit extreme please let me know.

Thanks for reading, any and all advice/information will be greatly appreciated.
post #2 of 65

The only thing I can contribute is about the PSU.  It's definitely major, major overkill.  All that would really be needed for this system is a quality-made 400W unit:

 

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_680_sli_review,4.html

 

With one GTX 680 under full load in the system, their PSU pulled 307W from the wall outlet.  Their CPU was idling, so I have to add about 150W for an overclocked 3770K if it is overclocked and under full load.  So, if the 3770K is overclocked and under full load at the same time as the GTX 680, then that would make the PSU pulling about 457W from the wall outlet.  However, this is not coming out of the PSU's capacity because some of the power is lost as heat which means the PSU pulls more power from the wall outlet than the system is pulling from the PSU.  It loses some of the power as heat during that conversion process from the wall outlet to the computer.  So if the PSU is 85% efficient while pulling 457W from the wall outlet, then that means that the system is actually only trying to pull 388W from the PSU.

 

If you had a quality-made 400W power supply, then it would be able to deliver 400W continuously if it were ever needed.  That 388W calculation is based on the scenario where both the GTX 680 and the overclocked 3770K are under full load at the same time  I don't know how often that happens while gaming, if ever.

It's a computer!
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It's a computer!
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i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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post #3 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

The only thing I can contribute is about the PSU.  It's definitely major, major overkill.  All that would really be needed for this system is a quality-made 400W unit:

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/geforce_gtx_680_sli_review,4.html

With one GTX 680 under full load in the system, their PSU pulled 307W from the wall outlet.  Their CPU was idling, so I have to add about 150W for an overclocked 3770K if it is overclocked and under full load.  So, if the 3770K is overclocked and under full load at the same time as the GTX 680, then that would make the PSU pulling about 457W from the wall outlet.  However, this is not coming out of the PSU's capacity because some of the power is lost as heat which means the PSU pulls more power from the wall outlet than the system is pulling from the PSU.  It loses some of the power as heat during that conversion process from the wall outlet to the computer.  So if the PSU is 85% efficient while pulling 457W from the wall outlet, then that means that the system is actually only trying to pull 388W from the PSU.

If you had a quality-made 400W power supply, then it would be able to deliver 400W continuously if it were ever needed.  That 388W calculation is based on the scenario where both the GTX 680 and the overclocked 3770K are under full load at the same time  I don't know how often that happens while gaming, if ever.

Awesome, Thank you. The power supply was definitely one of my major concerns, knowing that not getting a strong enough PS will cause crashes etc. I will look into getting a more appropriate PS for the rig.
post #4 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by GIitched View Post


Awesome, Thank you. The power supply was definitely one of my major concerns, knowing that not getting a strong enough PS will cause crashes etc. I will look into getting a more appropriate PS for the rig.

 

Oh cool.  May I help with that?

 

Although, there's also this thread for the more self-help oriented:

 

http://www.overclock.net/t/183810/faq-recommended-power-supplies

 

If I can help, then I would like to know what online stores you can order from.

It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Oh cool.  May I help with that?

Although, there's also this thread for the more self-help oriented:

http://www.overclock.net/t/183810/faq-recommended-power-supplies

If I can help, then I would like to know what online stores you can order from.

Cool thanks.

And this is the store I visited to get the prices and compile the build.

http://www.computeralliance.com.au/main
post #6 of 65
What about cooling? As far as I've heard, Ivy Bridge CPUs love to get toasty. You're buying a Sabertooth and a 3770k, so I'd assume you want the unlocked multi for something. If you plan on overclocking, I'm not so sure a stock cooler will suffice.

Edit: I just seen your questions. A high-quality air cooler, or a closed-loop system can be just fine, unless you plan on high clocks and benching.

As far as the 4gb vs. the 2gb 680, some games can cap out that 2gb's VRAM. No funs. Also, no real need for the sound card, unless you actually want it. I don't know how good the onboard on the Sabertooth is lol
Edited by Syryll - 1/13/13 at 8:23am
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post #7 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syryll View Post

What about cooling? As far as I've heard, Ivy Bridge CPUs love to get toasty. You're buying a Sabertooth and a 3770k, so I'd assume you want the unlocked multi for something. If you plan on overclocking, I'm not so sure a stock cooler will suffice.

Edit: I just seen your questions. A high-quality air cooler, or a closed-loop system can be just fine, unless you plan on high clocks and benching.

As far as the 4gb vs. the 2gb 680, some games can cap out that 2gb's VRAM. No funs. Also, no real need for the sound card, unless you actually want it. I don't know how good the onboard on the Sabertooth is lol

I was looking into cooling just now and found this http://www.computeralliance.com.au/liquid-cooling-thermaltake-bigwater-760-plus---dual-bay-drives-system

Would this water cooler suffice?
post #8 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by GIitched View Post

I was looking into cooling just now and found this http://www.computeralliance.com.au/liquid-cooling-thermaltake-bigwater-760-plus---dual-bay-drives-system

Would this water cooler suffice?

Well what are your plans with the rig as far as overclocking goes? What are average ambient temps? Also, I've heard the blocks in these bigwater kits have a tendency to crack, but I can't confirm this. Look at an H100i, or if you just want to air cool, I'd say a Noctua D14 would be nice, especially since it holds it's own against the higher-end clc coolers like the H100.

Nothing like a custom loop though imo.
Edited by Syryll - 1/13/13 at 8:33am
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post #9 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syryll View Post

Well what are your plans with the rig as far as overclocking goes? What are average ambient temps? Also, I've heard the blocks in these bigwater kits have a tendency to crack, but I can't confirm this. Look at an H100i, or if you just want to air cool, I'd say a Noctua D14 would be nice, especially since it holds it's own against the higher-end clc coolers like the H100.

Nothing like a custom loop though imo.

Im not entirely sure, I was just wanting to put a rig together and overclock it without the crazy water cooling needed. I did work experience in a computer store and built 4 PC's while i was there. These weren't crazy rigs, just average $800-1000 builds. So i know what goes into building rigs but Im hesitant to do water cooling, however i am open to water cooling the rig later on when im more comfortable in that area.

EDIT: the Noctua D14 is crazy ugly haha
post #10 of 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by GIitched View Post

Im not entirely sure, I was just wanting to put a rig together and overclock it without the crazy water cooling needed. I did work experience in a computer store and built 4 PC's while i was there. These weren't crazy rigs, just average $800-1000 builds. So i know what goes into building rigs but Im hesitant to do water cooling, however i am open to water cooling the rig later on when im more comfortable in that area.

EDIT: the Noctua D14 is crazy ugly haha

You'll be able to OC it quite a bit with a D14 or an H100. Even a Hyper212 would do you well. You just won't be winning any OC competitions or anything like that lol..... unless..... you get an ungodly efficient chip. QFT on the ugliness of the D14. Change the fans and it'll be less ugly. Noctua fans, as good as they are, are hideous. It's one of the things I like about the H100i. It's neat to look at lol
Edited by Syryll - 1/13/13 at 8:44am
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Syncmaster 2233 Soyo 20" Logitech G15 Antec 750W 
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