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Antec Kühler H2O 920 - Stock paste removal and replacement - An interesting discovery - Page 2

post #11 of 30
thats a noticable drop in temps and i would take any extra drop if i can get it , if i felt my temps were too high , i am not crazy about how this thing mounts either , back plate was a guessing game ,

i went with the 920 because it got good reviews, looked cool and seemed simple enough to install etc, and it had software to control it which i liked , compared to the corsair at the time didnt have it or you had to buy it extra which i think they give it to you now ,

if it wasnt such a pain to remount , i would change out the paste also after seeing that , but my temps are not that bad , i rather not touch anything now that i have it running nicely ,

in the future i may do it and at that time i may just delid and be done with it , i notice some people use different paste for the core when they delid and different paste on the cooler , is there a good paste you can use for both ?

when i got my parts , i ordered this paste just in case i needed something , would this do a good job if i ever change the paste or delid in the future ?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002VFXFE/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

i remember this one from years ago , now i am not sure whats the best one to use etc,

if this 920 ever goes out or something goes wrong , best thing to do is get a real water setup , pump , block , rad and tubing - would work better , and easier to mount it if you ask me ,

takes a few extra items , little more money but you wont have any problems if done right smile.gif if i can do it , i am sure anyone can do it ,
post #12 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by expresso View Post

thats a noticable drop in temps and i would take any extra drop if i can get it , if i felt my temps were too high , i am not crazy about how this thing mounts either , back plate was a guessing game ,

i went with the 920 because it got good reviews, looked cool and seemed simple enough to install etc, and it had software to control it which i liked , compared to the corsair at the time didnt have it or you had to buy it extra which i think they give it to you now ,

if it wasnt such a pain to remount , i would change out the paste also after seeing that , but my temps are not that bad , i rather not touch anything now that i have it running nicely ,

in the future i may do it and at that time i may just delid and be done with it , i notice some people use different paste for the core when they delid and different paste on the cooler , is there a good paste you can use for both ?

when i got my parts , i ordered this paste just in case i needed something , would this do a good job if i ever change the paste or delid in the future ?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002VFXFE/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

i remember this one from years ago , now i am not sure whats the best one to use etc,

if this 920 ever goes out or something goes wrong , best thing to do is get a real water setup , pump , block , rad and tubing - would work better , and easier to mount it if you ask me ,

takes a few extra items , little more money but you wont have any problems if done right smile.gif if i can do it , i am sure anyone can do it ,

Hey man!
Yeah if it ain't broke don't fix it biggrin.gif!

As for the arctic - that's a great paste, but use that ONLY ON the CPU (between 920 and CPU) - thus over the IHS.
However for within the IHS - it is greatly recommended, or even forced that, if you want to see a long term benefit over the months to come, you better use:
Coollabs liquid PRO
or
Coollabs liquid ULTRA

Ultra is the "updated version" of pro, and is easier to remove.
However temps have been noted to be better using the PRO version.
post #13 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

Hey man!
Yeah if it ain't broke don't fix it biggrin.gif!

As for the arctic - that's a great paste, but use that ONLY ON the CPU (between 920 and CPU) - thus over the IHS.
However for within the IHS - it is greatly recommended, or even forced that, if you want to see a long term benefit over the months to come, you better use:
Coollabs liquid PRO
or
Coollabs liquid ULTRA

Ultra is the "updated version" of pro, and is easier to remove.
However temps have been noted to be better using the PRO version.


if i am end up doing that , i would want the best one for lowest temps, so Pro then ? not looking to do it now anyway but good to know ,

for now i am tying to get it stable with a offset and not able to just yet , i am running +55 or +60 offset now , its been crashing prime for the past half dozen times , i was working my way lower just to see how low i can go , but when i followed your instructions to find my offset ,

it comes up with a +65 is what i should have , but i noticed with that offset CPUID shows a higher vcore on load then i had before the offset which was 1.350 V i was trying to get my offset to show this Vcore when on load and i did it with a lower offset than +65 and prime dosnt like it going to try it again with LLC on Extreme with lower offset again to see how that works out - worst case i go right back to my 4.7 with no offset , and not worry about it smile.gif
post #14 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

Hey man!
Yeah if it ain't broke don't fix it biggrin.gif!

As for the arctic - that's a great paste, but use that ONLY ON the CPU (between 920 and CPU) - thus over the IHS.
However for within the IHS - it is greatly recommended, or even forced that, if you want to see a long term benefit over the months to come, you better use:
Coollabs liquid PRO
or
Coollabs liquid ULTRA

Ultra is the "updated version" of pro, and is easier to remove.
However temps have been noted to be better using the PRO version.

ok thanks , i wonder why Pro would be better with temps ?

thats what we are all looking for is low temps
post #15 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

Cheers for the reply man! smile.gif
I might get it out soon again anyway, to see how it spread.

I was suggested the "dot method" by a few, and the line method by others.
Seeing as Arctic suggested the line method, that's what I followed for my re-application smile.gif!
no problem bro.
I would always recommend the advice of a reputable manufacturer who has had the opportunity to test so good call there. you only actually need about as much as a grain of rice to get a good mount. but the longer line is safer fo'sho!
 
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post #16 of 30
Dubbed, first off that scratch is not anything to worry about and the "chip" in the IHS is laughable. It really is such a non issue, I'm boggled that you're bothered by it.

Now let's do a bit of thinking as to what might of happened here.
The 920 block is pure copper, a rather soft metal. The Intel IHS is also copper, but it's is plated with nickel which gives it corrosion resistance and also a bit more hardness.
It's implausible that the Antec block could "chip" the Intel IHS.

I'll tell you what sounds more plausible though, and would seem to match your pictures too.
And that is it looks like maybe some dust particle, a piece of sand maybe or some such, got between the block and the IHS during installation.
Even the semicircular scratch seems logical, with the twisting motion that is sometimes used when applying and or removing heatsinks.

To bring it all home, this is a non issue and really not worth "A shocking discovery."
post #17 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by plywood99 View Post

Dubbed, first off that scratch is not anything to worry about and the "chip" in the IHS is laughable. It really is such a non issue, I'm boggled that you're bothered by it.

Now let's do a bit of thinking as to what might of happened here.
The 920 block is pure copper, a rather soft metal. The Intel IHS is also copper, but it's is plated with nickel which gives it corrosion resistance and also a bit more hardness.
It's implausible that the Antec block could "chip" the Intel IHS.

I'll tell you what sounds more plausible though, and would seem to match your pictures too.
And that is it looks like maybe some dust particle, a piece of sand maybe or some such, got between the block and the IHS during installation.
Even the semicircular scratch seems logical, with the twisting motion that is sometimes used when applying and or removing heatsinks.

To bring it all home, this is a non issue and really not worth "A shocking discovery."

Well, could well be - but I remember my installation quite well - I made sure that it was clean (the IHS).
I can't quite describe it, but it literally looks like someone has either put a steel nail and scratched the antec - the force required to do such a scratch I doubt would have been caused by the twisting.
More so, if that was the case, then why didn't the I7, also have a similar scratch on it.

I'm bothered about it, simply because I didn't expect something brand new to damage such an expensive part of my rig - in fact the i7 is the most expensive part.
Now for it not actually mattering - sure, it isn't something to be greatly worried about, as people do sand or what not - but again, why should ANY damage, be it minimal or severe be caused?

On a final note:
A while ago, I did some lathing for design technology, back at school. That round-ish look on the antec, reminds me greatly of a worked/missed lathe. I could be wrong, but that's what I think.

As for the title- it seems that quite a few of you are being "worked up" about it - that makes me laugh.
Quote:
Originally Posted by YowZ View Post

no problem bro.
I would always recommend the advice of a reputable manufacturer who has had the opportunity to test so good call there. you only actually need about as much as a grain of rice to get a good mount. but the longer line is safer fo'sho!

Cheers again for the reply bro!
post #18 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

Well, could well be - but I remember my installation quite well - I made sure that it was clean (the IHS).
I can't quite describe it, but it literally looks like someone has either put a steel nail and scratched the antec - the force required to do such a scratch I doubt would have been caused by the twisting.
More so, if that was the case, then why didn't the I7, also have a similar scratch on it.

1) I'm bothered about it, simply because I didn't expect something brand new to damage such an expensive part of my rig - in fact the i7 is the most expensive part.
Now for it not actually mattering - sure, it isn't something to be greatly worried about, as people do sand or what not - but again, why should ANY damage, be it minimal or severe be caused?

On a final note:
A while ago, I did some lathing for design technology, back at school. That round-ish look on the antec, reminds me greatly of a worked/missed lathe. I could be wrong, but that's what I think.

2) As for the title- it seems that quite a few of you are being "worked up" about it - that makes me laugh.

1) No proof provided that the Antec unit did this, only assumptions.
2) Not worked up at all. Simply replying reasonable to what appears to be a sensationalistic journalist's ploy to garner hits.
post #19 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by plywood99 View Post

1) No proof provided that the Antec unit did this, only assumptions.
2) Not worked up at all. Simply replying reasonable to what appears to be a sensationalistic journalist's ploy to garner hits.

Firstly I don't appreciate your comments.
To summarize: you're acting as if you put your finger across the Antec to actually feel the groove it had.
And finally no, I'm not seeking attention. Just bringing it to people's attention.
post #20 of 30
Wait hang on.
Where is the chip on the CPU?
And you do know the stock Antec paste isn't really bad, 10'c difference means that you applied it wrongly, very wrongly (probably both letting air-bubbles into the gap between the CPU and copper of the 920's base as well as too much paste. The air bubbles are a result of re-applying the cooler multiple times with the same TIM within a short period of time (ie, if you set it down, but didn't fully screw it in because it wasn't aligned properly and then removing it, placing it down again and seating it. etc.)

And how did you not know that a backplate went on the back of the motherboard? I mean, come on. There are even instructions in the AIO Antec 920 kit!

Even 80'c temps are really high for a AOIC unit like this, heck I only got ~55-60'c on my TRU120!
You must have no applied enough pressure, mounted it incorrectly otherwise or done something wrong with the TIM.

Also your application of the TIM is poor. You do not need to do that line since you are not using a Core 2 Quad. The line TIM application became popular because of the linear cores of the Core 2 Quad (ie, there were 2x2core 'modules', if you will, running down the center of the IHS). Original Core iX and above just need a smaller than pea-sized dot in the middle of the IHS.
Doing this will not only increase your temperatures (even then, only slightly), but also save you TIM and money.

The idea of TIM is not to be a layer between the 2 metals, but to fill in any air between them. So there should be metal touching metal, but not air touching metal. As air is an insulator. Basically this (extreme example):

contactarea.jpg

See how the TIM bridges the gaps? But that there is still the CPU heatsink touching the CPU IHS?
That's how you want it to be.

If you want to achieve lower temps, I would look at applying the cooler correctly. Using the correct amount of TIM, making sure that all your fans are spinning up accordingly, make sure you have good airflow and make sure that you have no kinks etc. in the tubing of the Antec 920.
Edited by Alex132 - 1/18/13 at 4:49pm
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