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Antec Kühler H2O 920 - Stock paste removal and replacement - An interesting discovery - Page 3

post #21 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex132 View Post

Wait hang on.
Where is the chip on the CPU?
And you do know the stock Antec paste isn't really bad, 10'c difference means that you applied it wrongly, very wrongly (probably both letting air-bubbles into the gap between the CPU and copper of the 920's base as well as too much paste. The air bubbles are a result of re-applying the cooler multiple times with the same TIM within a short period of time (ie, if you set it down, but didn't fully screw it in because it wasn't aligned properly and then removing it, placing it down again and seating it. etc.)

And how did you not know that a backplate went on the back of the motherboard? I mean, come on. There are even instructions in the AIO Antec 920 kit!

Even 80'c temps are really high for a AOIC unit like this, heck I only got ~55-60'c on my TRU120!
You must have no applied enough pressure, mounted it incorrectly otherwise or done something wrong with the TIM.

Also your application of the TIM is poor. You do not need to do that line since you are not using a Core 2 Quad. The line TIM application became popular because of the linear cores of the Core 2 Quad (ie, there were 2x2core 'modules', if you will, running down the center of the IHS). Original Core iX and above just need a smaller than pea-sized dot in the middle of the IHS.
Doing this will not only increase your temperatures (even then, only slightly), but also save you TIM and money.

The idea of TIM is not to be a layer between the 2 metals, but to fill in any air between them. So there should be metal touching metal, but not air touching metal. As air is an insulator. Basically this (extreme example):

contactarea.jpg

See how the TIM bridges the gaps? But that there is still the CPU heatsink touching the CPU IHS?
That's how you want it to be.

If you want to achieve lower temps, I would look at applying the cooler correctly. Using the correct amount of TIM, making sure that all your fans are spinning up accordingly, make sure you have good airflow and make sure that you have no kinks etc. in the tubing of the Antec 920.

Hi there,

1.
Well from the pictures, it seems pretty bad to me

2.
Yes the application was done properly

3.
I didn't realise were the backplate went at first - is that a crime?

4.
The antec instructions suck so bad, that I even chose to make a guide (which has helped quite a few people so far)

5.
Those are my temps unfortunately - even now, as you can see 10-5c difference.

6.
TIM application isn't poor - I looked on the Arctic website, and that's how THEY suggested to do it.

7.
TIM application depends on individuals, some prefer a cross, some prefer two small lines, others a small pea sized dot

8.
I understand the principle of the bubbles and the space in between

9.
As I said, the cooler is applied correctly - in fact any more you press or try to twist/turn the screws, it starts rotating the metal nuts within the plastic backplate - it won't go any more.

10.
I have quite good air flow in my case

I chose bullet points as it is easier to break down the points.
Cheers for the reply anyway, just seems like people are attacking me for posting this thread...and I don't like that any sort of "community"
post #22 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

Firstly I don't appreciate your comments.
To summarize: you're acting as if you put your finger across the Antec to actually feel the groove it had.
And finally no, I'm not seeking attention. Just bringing it to people's attention.

Have fun with your baseless product bashing thread.


@Alex132,
The base of the 920 is quite convex, meaning its very hard to get air trapped between it and the IHS.
So the method Dubbed is using for putting TIM on won't really hurt or hinder performance.
Also, yes the Antec instructions are borderline useless to a novice or someone not mechanically inclined.
Especially the first gen units, they had a horrible mounting ring. They did improve the design but it still leaves much to be desired.
Which brings us to clamping pressure. The antec unit needs good solid clamping pressure that is balanced across all four points.
Because of the convex nature of the base, it's easy to get the mount wrong.
post #23 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex132 View Post

Wait hang on.
Where is the chip on the CPU?
And you do know the stock Antec paste isn't really bad, 10'c difference means that you applied it wrongly, very wrongly (probably both letting air-bubbles into the gap between the CPU and copper of the 920's base as well as too much paste. The air bubbles are a result of re-applying the cooler multiple times with the same TIM within a short period of time (ie, if you set it down, but didn't fully screw it in because it wasn't aligned properly and then removing it, placing it down again and seating it. etc.)

And how did you not know that a backplate went on the back of the motherboard? I mean, come on. There are even instructions in the AIO Antec 920 kit!

Even 80'c temps are really high for a AOIC unit like this, heck I only got ~55-60'c on my TRU120!
You must have no applied enough pressure, mounted it incorrectly otherwise or done something wrong with the TIM.

Also your application of the TIM is poor. You do not need to do that line since you are not using a Core 2 Quad. The line TIM application became popular because of the linear cores of the Core 2 Quad (ie, there were 2x2core 'modules', if you will, running down the center of the IHS). Original Core iX and above just need a smaller than pea-sized dot in the middle of the IHS.
Doing this will not only increase your temperatures (even then, only slightly), but also save you TIM and money.

The idea of TIM is not to be a layer between the 2 metals, but to fill in any air between them. So there should be metal touching metal, but not air touching metal. As air is an insulator. Basically this (extreme example):

contactarea.jpg

See how the TIM bridges the gaps? But that there is still the CPU heatsink touching the CPU IHS?
That's how you want it to be.

If you want to achieve lower temps, I would look at applying the cooler correctly. Using the correct amount of TIM, making sure that all your fans are spinning up accordingly, make sure you have good airflow and make sure that you have no kinks etc. in the tubing of the Antec 920.

Hi there,

1.
Well from the pictures, it seems pretty bad to me

2.
Yes the application was done properly

3.
I didn't realise were the backplate went at first - is that a crime?

4.
The antec instructions suck so bad, that I even chose to make a guide (which has helped quite a few people so far)

5.
Those are my temps unfortunately - even now, as you can see 10-5c difference.

6.
TIM application isn't poor - I looked on the Arctic website, and that's how THEY suggested to do it.

7.
TIM application depends on individuals, some prefer a cross, some prefer two small lines, others a small pea sized dot

8.
I understand the principle of the bubbles and the space in between

9.
As I said, the cooler is applied correctly - in fact any more you press or try to twist/turn the screws, it starts rotating the metal nuts within the plastic backplate - it won't go any more.

10.
I have quite good air flow in my case

I chose bullet points as it is easier to break down the points.
Cheers for the reply anyway, just seems like people are attacking me for posting this thread...and I don't like that any sort of "community"

1) Almost every cooler does that

2) It seemed like there was A LOT of TIM on the cooler

3) Yeah, if English is your first language tongue.gif

5) TIM doesn't create that massive of a gap unless there was something wrong with your first installation. Antec's TIM is perfectly fine.

6) They recommend it because they don't want you spreading too little TIM on the IHS. The line thing was created because of C2Q, I am seriously suggesting you you a smaller-than-pea-sized dot application. But then again you don't even have to listen to me, if you're not going to take advice on something that will help you... then so be it.

7) TIM application depends on nothing but slightly on what processor you have, there is a better way to do it - there should be no 'preference' assigned to it.
Edited by Alex132 - 1/19/13 at 1:17am
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post #24 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex132 View Post

1) Almost every cooler does that

2) It seemed like there was A LOT of TIM on the cooler

3) Yeah, if English is your first language tongue.gif

5) TIM doesn't create that massive of a gap unless there was something wrong with your first installation. Antec's TIM is perfectly fine.

6) They recommend it because they don't want you spreading too little TIM on the IHS. The line thing was created because of C2Q, I am seriously suggesting you you a smaller-than-pea-sized dot application. But then again you don't even have to listen to me, if you're not going to take advice on something that will help you... then so be it.

7) TIM application depends on nothing but slightly on what processor you have, there is a better way to do it - there should be no 'preference' assigned to it.

Alex, the line method is the recommend method by artic for that particular die.

The antec unit had WAY too much TIM on it, and thus he got 10 degrees BETTER temps as I recall.

Why does everyone get butthurt so easily. Its not a competition to be the best at computers, its a forum to enjoy PCs on. If you wanna fight people, go down a dockyard bar on a friday night and profess to be homosexual.
Come on man, why so aggro?
 
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post #25 of 30
Wow that line had too much thermal paste on it.

Op hear What we're saying haha

Small dot. Half of a grain of rice seems create that paper thin layer you want
post #26 of 30
1) Your ambient temps where 4c lower on your 2nd test. Look at min. temps in coretemp.

2) The stock Antec T.I.M. has too much for optimum temps. Just by using a minimal amount you could see an improvement.

3) That is not an engraving,that is a scratch. It came from you installing it. It is no big deal.
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post #27 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by YowZ View Post

Alex, the line method is the recommend method by artic for that particular die.

he antec unit had WAY too much TIM on it, and thus he got 10 degrees BETTER temps as I recall.

Why does everyone get butthurt so easily. Its not a competition to be the best at computers, its a forum to enjoy PCs on. If you wanna fight people, go down a dockyard bar on a friday night and profess to be homosexual.
Come on man, why so aggro?

Tell me about it man. I post something and get so much flame for it.
I'll tell you what just for my own curiosity, I'll remove the Antec today, take a picture of the thermal paste, reapply a pea sized dot, then monitor temps.
I won't jump to any conclusions now, but I'm curious wink.gif

As for people's behaviour and more so insults, none of them are appreciated.

I appreciated help, advice and more so guidance, what I don't like is people critiquing my English, or accusing me of doing certain things.
I deal with "noobs" on YouTube every single day, each response is like the next - to the point, kind and helpful. Some people just can't grasp that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwoodz View Post

1) Your ambient temps where 4c lower on your 2nd test. Look at min. temps in coretemp.

2) The stock Antec T.I.M. has too much for optimum temps. Just by using a minimal amount you could see an improvement.

3) That is not an engraving,that is a scratch. It came from you installing it. It is no big deal.

1. That's a very good point - although even now, after several hours of BF3, the temps are still lower than what I remember them to be.
2. Well, I didn't think twice to be honest. I had the MX2 there, but thought: "Seeing as antec has it there, I'll trust their judgement"
3. Well when I run my finger through it, there is a "groove" so to speak. As for me doing it during my installation -> is that what some other person suggest and by saying there was something on my IHS, whilst the installation was being done?
I know it isn't a deal breaker, but I would love to know why there is a "circular" lathe esk mark, which could have never been created by me (I'm not referencing the groove here, but the thing right next to it)
Edited by Totally Dubbed - 1/19/13 at 4:58am
post #28 of 30
Thread Starter 
I would just like to reveal something - something I never bothered mentioning or asking about:
When I first received my Antec 920, I immediately called my cousin on Skype.
Why lol?

As there was a fingerprint (as if someone had put their finger) on the sides of the thermal paste.
Now I didn't think of it much back then, but was sceptical as it was under the "plastic protection cup".

After realising this, i took the decision to continue with my installation, rather than return it.
I did clean the surface of the Antec, (around the paste) before applying it.

Now that I've notice this issue....I'm starting to think something was up before I even put the Antec in place.
Anyone like to comment on that?

(Only my cousin and I knew about that fingerprint)
post #29 of 30
Also you mentioned in your video about the rad being bent a bit...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

I would just like to reveal something - something I never bothered mentioning or asking about:
When I first received my Antec 920, I immediately called my cousin on Skype.
Why lol?

As there was a fingerprint (as if someone had put their finger) on the sides of the thermal paste.
Now I didn't think of it much back then, but was sceptical as it was under the "plastic protection cup".

After realising this, i took the decision to continue with my installation, rather than return it.
I did clean the surface of the Antec, (around the paste) before applying it.

Now that I've notice this issue....I'm starting to think something was up before I even put the Antec in place.
Anyone like to comment on that?

(Only my cousin and I knew about that fingerprint)
post #30 of 30
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by paintball23456 View Post

Also you mentioned in your video about the rad being bent a bit...

A no those were just the little prongs - although that it quite "normal" as they are quite easy to bend....I'll ask scan and Antec about these issues nevertheless!
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