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Cooling loop parts check - Page 2

post #11 of 19
Best WC cases out there are the Mointain Mods and the Caselabs, Caselabs being the better ones. The Merlin series would be good for a first build, you will never buy an other case again. But they are expensive, and they look kinda boxy and industrial. Still I love my STH10 and it does look much better in person.

About rad thickness, thicker is not always better. For example, the XT30 beats it's big brother the UT60 at speeds below 1000 rpm. Yes, a rad half as thick gets better results at low fan speeds. The reason for it is that the fans just dont get enough power to push the air through the thick rads at low speed. But the UT60 would again gain in push/pull, especially at low speed.

Now after all that is said, honestly, rad perfoance doesnt really matter all that much, air flow and rpm are far more important then rad selection.
I think the biggest plus of the Alphacool rads is their low restriction.
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post #12 of 19
I dont like pumps attached to their reservoir. I'm a silent freak and the way I like my pump is loose, hanging by it's hoses, not transmitting it's vibrations to anything. You fasten your pump to a res or to your case, it will get louder.
Edited by PepeLapiu - 1/19/13 at 9:45pm
Dark Vader
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post #13 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by RS232 View Post

I am using the slim profile rad because I want to mount it inside my new HAF X case. I'm open to changing vendors, the UT30 is almost exactly the same size & I like that it is full copper. I'm going to see if I can find some statistics on that radiator vs. the new EX series from XSPC, I don't know if XSPC changed their design at all between RS and EX.

Here is a newer review by Martin of the XSPC EX 360 rad:
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/12/22/xspc-ex360-radiator/
It does not compare it to the XT30 , only pits it against it's two brothers. But you can do the extrapolation and cross checking yourself.
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post #14 of 19
You need to edit your posts bro...
Super quiet
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Super quiet
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post #15 of 19
Thread Starter 
I think I'll get rid of the bay res and get one of these
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14286/ex-res-324/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_250_Inline_Reservoir_-_Ice_Black_BP-WTZM250P-IBKBK.html?tl=g30c97s165#blank
That will free up my bays and keep that warranty. After all, there's no reason to void it if I don't have to.

Also I found that review as well. I'm going to stick with the thin and move to the AlphaCool ST30. It's still a 360 rad and gives me a little bit more performance.

I'm going to update my original post with that info
Edited by RS232 - 1/20/13 at 10:20am
post #16 of 19
The geat thing about a long res like that one is that it is good for bleeding and the lenght is a great anti-cyclone devise. thumb.gif
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post #17 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PepeLapiu View Post

The geat thing about a long res like that one is that it is good for bleeding and the lenght is a great anti-cyclone devise. thumb.gif

I'm from Kansas, we love cyclones!

I have the 3/8 | 5/8 tubing spec'd out, do either of you suggest using the 3/8 | 1/2 tubing instead?
PrimoChill Advanced LRT
Edited by RS232 - 1/20/13 at 4:18pm
post #18 of 19
1/2" ID tubing appears to be the most popular so it's probably easier to get fittings for it. Other then that, the choice of tubing size is pretty much an aesthetic one. If you go with 1/2" ID you still have to decide on the outside dimension:.5/8" or 3/4" OD. Unless you use barb fittings, then the OD doesnt matter at all, just the ID.

Kansas huh? Maybe you could put yoyr res on your front porch to ward off tornadoes.
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Dark Vader
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post #19 of 19
Thread Starter 
The motherboard has barbs that require 3/8 ID and from what I read anything larger doesn't help much. I think I'll go with the thicker OD so the tube holds it shape better (i hope)

I'll stick with my Tygon E-1000 and Feser 1 red coolant. The Tygon is a little more expensive but I like the look of the clear tube.
Edited by RS232 - 1/20/13 at 5:53pm
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