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Headset wiring - Page 3

post #21 of 51
Thread Starter 
Alright. I'll go check now, and the wiring is still confusing me. I'm not sure why. Total, id need a left, right, mic, and ground correct? So lets say I want orange for the left lead. Would it be a orange and white? Or orange and another color?
post #22 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by CreationArt View Post

Alright. I'll go check now, and the wiring is still confusing me. I'm not sure why. Total, id need a left, right, mic, and ground correct? So lets say I want orange for the left lead. Would it be a orange and white? Or orange and another color?

Ethernet comes in pairs, Orange and an Orange/White stripe, same for green, blue, and brown I think.

Since it's already twisted together in the sleeve (the rubber part), I would just use a pair together. If you're going to remove the outer coating so you can see the individual wires, then take your pick. Pick any 2 and use it for the left signal, any other 2 for right, same for Ground and Mic.

If your cable goes in on the right side, you will either need to strip off about a foot of everything but the pair you chose for left, solder them together in the right cup (assuming you're taking the cups apart) or use the existing left wire.

For the jacks, you will want something like this, or this, or this. You will need 2 of them, no matter what. Either get 2 different ones (1 for mic and 1 for the headphones) or find another way to differentiate them (a piece of heatshrink would work).

If you choose to go to RadioShack, you can always pick up the wire there too. This would work (24AWG). The wire I just got for my headphones is 26AWG. Don't get anything bigger than 22AWG (I wouldn't, you'll run into soldering issues).
post #23 of 51
Thread Starter 
I bought 22 feet of cat5, and bought the two connectors. Time for some fun!
post #24 of 51
Thread Starter 
The only soldering iron that anyone has in the building doesn't get hot enough to reflow the current solders that are from the factory. I will have to wait until I get a better soldering iron this weekend.
post #25 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by CreationArt View Post

I bought 22 feet of cat5, and bought the two connectors. Time for some fun!

You are going to need more than 22 feet. That gives you about 10 feet for the right channel, 11 feel for the left channel, and 1 foot for the microphone.

Or do you want to leave the microphone alone for now?
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Yin&Yang
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post #26 of 51
Thread Starter 
Why would I need more than 22 feet? I thought I was supposed to do something like blue/blue white to left. Green/green white for right, brown/brown white ground, and the other color for mic?
post #27 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by CreationArt View Post

Why would I need more than 22 feet? I thought I was supposed to do something like blue/blue white to left. Green/green white for right, brown/brown white ground, and the other color for mic?

That's the way I would do it if I were using cat cable. There's enough strands in there to more than cable those headphones, even if you wanted a ridiculously long cable.
post #28 of 51
Thread Starter 
I don't want two wires hanging out of my headset. I just want these working again! That wiring idea was what I thought was the right way. I'm still a noob though.
post #29 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by CreationArt View Post

Why would I need more than 22 feet? I thought I was supposed to do something like blue/blue white to left. Green/green white for right, brown/brown white ground, and the other color for mic?

See what liquidzoo is recommending would work, but it wouldn't work well.

The issue is that the less wire you use, the higher your impedance is going to be. Imagine you have a road. We will pretend for a moment that the electrical current will be traffic. The more wire or lanes on the road you have available, the easier the electricity or traffic will flow. But if you have two many lanes and not enough traffic, the extra lanes will become dead weight. The goal is to have enough wire, but not too much. I personally have tested ethernet headphone cables, and I think that having 1 cable per channel is the best way to go.

Right now you have three things to wire which are a left channel, a right channel, and a microphone. I am pretty sure you already understood this, and understands what it means, but I am going to break it up so that there is absolutely no confusion.

Right channel: You need one length of Ethernet cable. You will need a positive and a ground lead for the driver. What you do is you take your ethernet cable, and cut a 10 foot length. You remove the shielding so that you only have the insulated wire left. From that point, you will see several colored cables, and several white cables. Put all the white cables together and all the colored cables together. Then strip the white cables down and twist them together. This is now your ground lead. Do the same for the colored cable. That will be your positive lead.

Left channel: Do the exact same thing for the right channel. The only difference is you want to cut the cable either a foot longer so that it can go around the headband, or you can leave it the same length as the right channel and cut a hole in your left channel headphones cup to run the wires through. Your choice.

Microphone: Make the cable the same way you made the right channel. The big difference with this wire is it will be going to your mic, and that you will have a different colored 3.5mm jack at the other end. Nothing more.

If you do things that way (which you should) you are going to need 31 feet, and I would get 35 just in case you make a mistake or two.
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post #30 of 51
For single entry (which I assume yours is), all you would need to do is cut off a section of Cat cable ~1 ft (make it 2 to be safe) longer than the overall length you want for the finished cable.

Assuming you want to just use the bare wires inside the cat shielding, pull out all of the wires inside that shield.

Now, thread the cable through the headband (or wherever it threads) from the entry side to the non-entry side (right to left, assuming all of your wires go to the right headphone and that's where the jack comes out). You will need 2 sets of wires to do this. One pair will be for Left signal, the other will be for ground. The ground cable only needs to go as far as the right cup where it will be soldered together with the right ground. Most single entry headphones will have a place for this to happen (the ground comes in through the wire to a pad, then another cable goes from that pad to the other headphone; check to make sure on the existing wires, if you can, to see if the left signal does that too).

Thread those left wires through the cable hole and leave them be for a bit.

Now, solder up the common ground (like I talked about before) and thread those through the cable too.

Lastly, thread the right signal in and solder it up.

Now at the other end of the wires, trim them all so they're the length you want the final cord to be. If you're going to sleeve them, now is the time to do so. Unscrew the plug you bought and thread everything but the part you'll be soldering onto the wire (if you don't do this, you will have to desolder and do it again...trust me). Then start with one of the pairs of wires (make sure you write down which color is going to be what) and solder it to the appropriate place on the plug. Do the same for the remaining wires.

Most often: Tip: Left Channel Ring: Right Channel Sleeve: Ground. (that way you'll know what people mean when they say TRS plug). You should be able to tell which of the 2 front connectors goes to the tip (it will be connected to the center).

The mic should be the same basic method. I've never done a mic cable before, but it shouldn't be hard to do.

If you're going to do any type of braiding of the wires, do it before you start to solder the plugs on (label or write down which is which beforehand) and before any type of sleeving goes on. Google Litz braid for a good how-to.

You could double the ground if you so choose. Some people recommend having the number of ground wires be equal to the number of left channel + number of right channel wires (4, in this case).

Hope that helps, sorry for the giant post if you already knew this tongue.gif


Edit: I definitely see where Tjj226 Angel is going with this, and he may be right. I've never used Ethernet wire for headphones, so I was just going off of what I do know. Either way will get you the same result: Working headphones, the choice of method is really up to you at this point.

You could even get fancy and go buy a couple of jacks and mod your headphones for a removable cable if you so choose. Once I'm done with my K240s, I think I may do just that with a few older pairs I have lying around and possibly get up the courage to do it with my DT770s.
Edited by liquidzoo - 1/31/13 at 8:08pm
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