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Headset wiring - Page 4

post #31 of 51
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys. So either way I need to remove the cable from the sleeving? I wasn't planning on sleeving them, just keeping it in the cat5 sleeve. Silly me.

I'll most likely just go buy more and do it tjj's way. I think the overall product will come out better, and I'll feel better about it.
post #32 of 51
One thing to be sure of before you go either way, make sure that the twisted wires, however many you're going to use, will fit in the TRP jack.
post #33 of 51
Thread Starter 
My 30watt iron doesnt seem to make the wire reflow. Urgg. This is getting more and more expensive. The only other soldering option I own is a butane torch for 0/1 gauge.


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post #34 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by CreationArt View Post

My 30watt iron doesnt seem to make the wire reflow. Urgg. This is getting more and more expensive. The only other soldering option I own is a butane torch for 0/1 gauge.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

.........lol. Don't use the butane.

Seriously..go to lowes and get a soldering iron. They are like 10-15 bucks and make sure you get something that is closer to like 50-60 watts.
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Yin&Yang
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post #35 of 51
Thread Starter 
I wasn't going to butane this haha. I borrowed one from a neighbor. I finished all my wiring. Did I need to use the little board where all the previous wires were connected? Or can I just bypass that? I ended up using just the single wires, for each. I just want a working headset honestly. And secondly, I bought the 3.5mm gold jacks from radioshack, but am unsure of how I should actually wire them as I have never used them before. Its two pieces, one is threaded, and the other is the actual jack.

Heres the Jack:
post #36 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by CreationArt View Post

I wasn't going to butane this haha. I borrowed one from a neighbor. I finished all my wiring. Did I need to use the little board where all the previous wires were connected? Or can I just bypass that? I ended up using just the single wires, for each. I just want a working headset honestly. And secondly, I bought the 3.5mm gold jacks from radioshack, but am unsure of how I should actually wire them as I have never used them before. Its two pieces, one is threaded, and the other is the actual jack.

Heres the Jack:

I would rewire the board.

For the jack, the ground attaches to the sleeve part of the actual jack (the longish metal tab) the other 2 tabs you see are for the tip (left) and ring (right). If you look closely, you will see that 1 of them is connected to the center. That's the tip.

Make sure, though, that you put the parts that screw/slide on before soldering anything, and make sure they're on the right way (personal experience).
post #37 of 51
Thread Starter 
I'll have to rewire the board then. I simply bypassed it for the being, tomorrow morning i'll get setup and pick up where I left off. I'm scared I'm going to over solder on the board and bridge them.
Another question, is there a diagram of that board? I didn't label anything.
Lately, what wires come from the mic? Mine only has one black one. It was severed so I dont know really what it went to.
post #38 of 51
Thread Starter 
Uhh ohh,I bought 3.5mm mono plugs. Is that bad?


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post #39 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by CreationArt View Post

Uhh ohh,I bought 3.5mm mono plugs. Is that bad?


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Yes, you need stereo.

Also, don't use the board. The point of using slightly thicker wire is to decrease the impedance and resistance. If you use that board, you will be increasing it again, so a rewire would be a pointless gesture.

If I were doing it, I would drill a tiny hole on the other channel, and just have two wires instead of one. It allows you to have thicker cables without having them be too stiff. thumb.gif
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post #40 of 51
Thread Starter 
Tomorrow ill have to go pick up stereo jacks. Still neither of you answered the microphone question!
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