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[Build Log] "Phenomenon" Switch 810+Pedestal - Now with delidded ivy - Page 5

post #41 of 234
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREG MISO View Post

If I were you I would turn the front radiator so the barbs are on top. Bleeding with that radiator upside down will be a serious pain. Everything else is looking amazing and It makes me want to watercool my phantom 410 more and more. thumb.gif

-Greg
thx for the advice! it actually make sense, didnt think that far
but either way it would be a pain since the loop order would have a 480 radiator located in the pedestal below the 240 and come after the 240 in the loop
might take days for it to fully bled but what I'm gonna do, any advice?
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post #42 of 234
Tip it on its side and just move it around alot and that will help get all the little bubbles out of the little corners and spots you normally couldnt get bled unless you tipped it.
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post #43 of 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokrik View Post

the gpu slot will come out from the psu cover , the usb 2.0, reset cables etc will also come out from the little gap in between the psu cover

Ended up with a combination of acrylic cutter and dremel, for the initial cut of the whole panel I used cutter + ruller till half of the thickness gone than cut it with dremel to finish off the rest of the thickness; the result is a straight cut thumb.gif

for the cpu hole , I used just a dremel, not overly satisfied with the result as its not a perfect square, but its far from visible when everything is assambled so I dont really care
but for the future ie 24pin hole; I might use the combination of cutter+dremel again

I know from your point of view the overall design of the build is still blur biggrin.gif
but I want it to have an element of surprise
so what I know is that you wont be disappointed subbing this (I HOPE LOL!)

Not sure what you mean when you say that the GPU slot will come from the PSU cover, but I was talking about the marked area, make sure you have space there so the GPU can slide down into the PCIe slot.

post #44 of 234
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jassilamba View Post

Not sure what you mean when you say that the GPU slot will come from the PSU cover, but I was talking about the marked area, make sure you have space there so the GPU can slide down into the PCIe slot.

Oh thought you were talking about GPU cables
(Its 5 AM here, f***** thunderstorm woke me up)
Yes, the acrylic is only 2mm thick smile.gif so there is no problem

this is the pic when I was test fitting it with my motherboard
pardon me for the picture, taken from my blackberry

Edited by jokrik - 2/8/13 at 1:58pm
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post #45 of 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokrik View Post

Oh thought you were talking about GPU cables
(Its 5 AM here, f***** thunderstorm woke me up)
Yes, the acrylic is only 2mm thick smile.gif so there is no problem

this is the pic when I was test fitting it with my motherboard
pardon me for the picture, taken from my blackberry

Go back the bed and finish your sleep, and your gonna hate me for saying this, I will say it again, make sure the GPU slides in. The reason I say is because the guys over at mnpctech are working on a cosmos 2 build, and they are using similar acrylic under the board, and the had to take everything out as the GPUs would not slide in all the way. So while you are at it, make sure you test fit the GPUs as well.

Other than that really really looking good. thumb.gif
post #46 of 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREG MISO View Post

If I were you I would turn the front radiator so the barbs are on top. Bleeding with that radiator upside down will be a serious pain. Everything else is looking amazing and It makes me want to watercool my phantom 410 more and more. thumb.gif

-Greg

I've done it both ways
Up top as seen here

And here with the ports on the bottom

Neither one was more difficult than the other when it came time to bleed the system...just my experience with it.
post #47 of 234
Love it!
Can't wait to see the completed product smile.gif
post #48 of 234
Quote:
Originally Posted by jokrik View Post

What will be in this build?
What I can say is that I will use the same components from my lastest build including the case to save cost. What I will do or try to show in this build log is to make this Switch 810 more eye-popping in term of performance and look. I will be using a total of 1020 space of radiator (480+360+240) with the help of DWOOD Pedestal (which I've already received and LOVE it!) since my ultimate goal is to get a 5c Delta on CPU temp. This goal is pretty way up there since it gets pretty hot without air con in Asia
Most of the components I've chosen are the one that fits in my build color theme. Whats left is that to add a more color fit water cooling components which is already on its way from the USA
The most difficult hurdle I've got is that I am currently located in an Asia country where to to get the water cooling component is limited and pricy. I've ordered from FrozenCPU but sometimes the shipping cost is not worth if I buy in small quantity therefore Im trying hard to order all at once and if something got left behind I'll see what I can find in my own country
The build will also use some laser cut to make the pattern which I've drawn on pieces of acrylic


It's really nice to notice that your goal was to drop temps by a very logical margin.
Godspeed your deed, Sir thumb.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by jokrik View Post

meanwhile had some problem cutting the 2mm acrylic with jigsaw, it shattered frown.gif
probably going to cut it with dremel though its pretty hard to get a straight cut from a dremel
I've tried with cutter but its a no go
any advice? I'm a first timer in cutting acrylic and yes I used saw blade for plastic and tried it with slow/medium/fast speed

since you already had your own rotary tools,
maybe you can build this micro table saw station:

http://www.quan-diy.com/projects/dremel/tablesaw.htm

it's intended to cut a pcb layer,
but if it can cut a pcb, it should had no problem to cut an acrylic biggrin.gif
post #49 of 234
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jassilamba View Post

Go back the bed and finish your sleep, and your gonna hate me for saying this, I will say it again, make sure the GPU slides in. The reason I say is because the guys over at mnpctech are working on a cosmos 2 build, and they are using similar acrylic under the board, and the had to take everything out as the GPUs would not slide in all the way. So while you are at it, make sure you test fit the GPUs as well.

Other than that really really looking good. thumb.gif

You're always right ! I couldnt slide the GPU, It should be fine now since I've cut some space for it
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCModderMike View Post

I've done it both ways
Up top as seen here

And here with the ports on the bottom
Neither one was more difficult than the other when it came time to bleed the system...just my experience with it.

Great looking rig! thx for the info smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad7692 View Post

Love it!
Can't wait to see the completed product smile.gif

Thx smile.gif will be an update today
Quote:
Originally Posted by inVain View Post

It's really nice to notice that your goal was to drop temps by a very logical margin.
Godspeed your deed, Sir thumb.gif
since you already had your own rotary tools,
maybe you can build this micro table saw station:

http://www.quan-diy.com/projects/dremel/tablesaw.htm

it's intended to cut a pcb layer,
but if it can cut a pcb, it should had no problem to cut an acrylic biggrin.gif
I've successfully cut the acrylic with the dremel and with a bit of sanding its nearly perfect, nearly biggrin.gif
great article , will consider making one
Thx Vain thumb.gif
Edited by jokrik - 2/10/13 at 3:24pm
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post #50 of 234
Thread Starter 
February 11th 2013
A few updates guys

Firstly, I have the 240 radiator painted! but to be honest I'm not 100% satisfied with the result
Its been raining hard these past few days so the result is pretty dodgy in my opinion
see for your self and compare with the first painted rad
pardon me for a few dirty spot on the fin



Thx to Jass I was able to prevent the GPU slot problem, Its all done now !




I've also took a major step to cut down the 5.25" bay so that there will be more space on the inside and doesn't look too crowded once I cover everything is more acrylic! yes more white acrylic
the acrylic that cover the 5.25" bay will be aligned with the front rad







The front bay would look like something like this once everything is assembled, just test fitting for now







Still wondering the best way to route the FC cables to the back, there are few options,
which are to cut holes for it ; or even cut the acrylic in straight line , aligned with the radiator and the bay itself since it would be covered anyway

I've also installed an angled aluminium for the psu cover to be screwed on




Furthermore, there are a few pics on the motherboard since I've put all the blocks on smile.gif









Thats all for now ,
next stop would be the acrylic work and LED lighting
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