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[Build Log] Big Brother (Water Cooled Powermac G4) (update April 28th with watercooled PSU) - Page 8

post #71 of 144
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gardnerphotos View Post

My G4 just arrived! biggrin.gif shame I cant start work until after exams are over I will just have to look at it and admire it haha :/

mine came fully loaded with components and actually works quite well but the power supply smells funny

I'm having the same problem with my G5 - it's just sitting there.. Staring at me.. Wanting me to play with it tongue.gif

Anyways.. UPDATE!
I took the Apple logo, filled it with silicone and glued it to a piece of acrylic. I then mounted two 3mm LEDs on the outside (as they just made two dots if I placed them inside). Sorry for it being dirty, but of course that will be cleaned off.


I then stole the switch from a Cooler Master casing - any casing should do, but this one had a button with a large surface area to push the acrylic plate.

And the dummy rig looks like this
I then went on to make the acrylic cover for the PSU. First taking the old one apart.




My acrilic + heater



And the failed result. I think it would look good though if I managed to do it right.



The logo installed. The case will be painted, so the two LEDs will not be seen through the layers of paint.




And how the acrylic would look on the PSU - of course a fan would be needed (unless I flip it in the casing)

post #72 of 144
What was wrong with the acrylic? Also do you know how hard it is to reuse the original power button?
post #73 of 144
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gardnerphotos View Post

What was wrong with the acrylic? Also do you know how hard it is to reuse the original power button?

It was just a bit bulgy in two of the corners. Probably heated it up too much - so that's a do-over.

I've seen some modding guides as to getting it to work, but I just didn't see the point. If you're going for the original mac-look then sure. But there's also a "programming" button that makes absolutely no sense in the PC world - so that would just be in the way.

I like the idea that my build will be completely clean in the front with just the little Apple logo that then lights up when you push it biggrin.gif
post #74 of 144
Quote:
Originally Posted by muude View Post

It was just a bit bulgy in two of the corners. Probably heated it up too much - so that's a do-over.

I've seen some modding guides as to getting it to work, but I just didn't see the point. If you're going for the original mac-look then sure. But there's also a "programming" button that makes absolutely no sense in the PC world - so that would just be in the way.

I like the idea that my build will be completely clean in the front with just the little Apple logo that then lights up when you push it biggrin.gif

Could you just use any momentary switch for the logo switch?
post #75 of 144
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gardnerphotos View Post

Could you just use any momentary switch for the logo switch?

Yep smile.gif It's just the logo I em pressing into the case that then pushes a switch that hopefully pushes the logo back out - I just need a stronger spring for the last part. That is why I am calling it a dummy rig, because it is really low tech wink.gif Haha
post #76 of 144
Quote:
Originally Posted by muude View Post

Yep smile.gif It's just the logo I em pressing into the case that then pushes a switch that hopefully pushes the logo back out - I just need a stronger spring for the last part. That is why I am calling it a dummy rig, because it is really low tech wink.gif Haha

Ill just steal the final idea haha tongue.gif

do you think this would work?
http://uk.farnell.com/multimec/3etl9-10-4/switch-spst-no-0-05a-24v-thd/dp/1132883
post #77 of 144
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gardnerphotos View Post

Ill just steal the final idea haha tongue.gif

do you think this would work?
http://uk.farnell.com/multimec/3etl9-10-4/switch-spst-no-0-05a-24v-thd/dp/1132883

It should work - but then you'll have to find the connectors for the motherboard and connect it to the button. I think it would be a lot easier just to cannibalise an old case tongue.gif
post #78 of 144
I assume you are going to paint yours, if so what have you done about the rubber seal? I assume yours has one too, mine has one going around the edge of the case where it meets with the door, it appears to be glued in place pretty strongly. Also the non slip pads on the feet, have you removed them for painting? If so what do you plan on using to stick them back on. Finally the mechanism in the roof for locking the door shut seems unnecessary, are you going to remove yours? Mine makes a horrid jangling noise whenever I move the case because of the spring. I assume you will remove that to paint the case?

Also 200th post biggrin.gif woooo
post #79 of 144
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gardnerphotos View Post

What was wrong with the acrylic? Also do you know how hard it is to reuse the original power button?

It's not too difficult, I posted a link to a tutorial in my build log. I need to rewire mine though, I didn't do a very good job with it. I've seen some people replace the useless programming button with a HDD LED in their mods.


Muude, I like that acrylic PSU cover. I've been wanting to do something like that to mine.
Haswell
(16 items)
 
Sandy Bridge
(15 items)
 
Quicksilver
(12 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel Core i5 4690 MSI Z87-GD65 Gaming ASUS GTX 660 ASUS GTX 660 
RAMRAMOSOS
Corsair Vengeance CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10R Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9R  OS X Yosemite Windows 8.1 Pro 
MonitorMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Achieva Shimian QH270 IPSB Achieva Shimian QH270 IPSB Achieva Shimian QH270 Lite Apple Aluminum wired keyboard 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair HX850W Corsair 600T SE Microsoft Wired optical mouse Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 2500K @ 4.0GHz Asus P67 Sabertooth Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 16GB Corsair Vengeance 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
OCZ Vertex 2 60GB Hitachi 640GB HDD Corsair H70 Mac OS X Yosemite 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8.1 Pro x64 Vizio E371VL Saitek Eclipse II Cooler Master Silent Pro 850W 
CaseMouse
Inverted Corsair 600T SE Insignia optical mouse 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 3470 ASUS P8P67-M Pro Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 16GB Corsair Vengeance LP 
OSOSMonitorKeyboard
Mac OS X 10.9 Windows 8 Achieva Shimian QH270-Lite Apple Wireless Keyboard 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair HX850 Modded Apple PowerMac G4 Quicksilver Apple Magic Trackpad Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 
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Haswell
(16 items)
 
Sandy Bridge
(15 items)
 
Quicksilver
(12 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel Core i5 4690 MSI Z87-GD65 Gaming ASUS GTX 660 ASUS GTX 660 
RAMRAMOSOS
Corsair Vengeance CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10R Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9R  OS X Yosemite Windows 8.1 Pro 
MonitorMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Achieva Shimian QH270 IPSB Achieva Shimian QH270 IPSB Achieva Shimian QH270 Lite Apple Aluminum wired keyboard 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair HX850W Corsair 600T SE Microsoft Wired optical mouse Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 2500K @ 4.0GHz Asus P67 Sabertooth Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 16GB Corsair Vengeance 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
OCZ Vertex 2 60GB Hitachi 640GB HDD Corsair H70 Mac OS X Yosemite 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8.1 Pro x64 Vizio E371VL Saitek Eclipse II Cooler Master Silent Pro 850W 
CaseMouse
Inverted Corsair 600T SE Insignia optical mouse 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 3470 ASUS P8P67-M Pro Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 16GB Corsair Vengeance LP 
OSOSMonitorKeyboard
Mac OS X 10.9 Windows 8 Achieva Shimian QH270-Lite Apple Wireless Keyboard 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair HX850 Modded Apple PowerMac G4 Quicksilver Apple Magic Trackpad Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 
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post #80 of 144
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gardnerphotos View Post

I assume you are going to paint yours, if so what have you done about the rubber seal? I assume yours has one too, mine has one going around the edge of the case where it meets with the door, it appears to be glued in place pretty strongly. Also the non slip pads on the feet, have you removed them for painting? If so what do you plan on using to stick them back on. Finally the mechanism in the roof for locking the door shut seems unnecessary, are you going to remove yours? Mine makes a horrid jangling noise whenever I move the case because of the spring. I assume you will remove that to paint the case?

Also 200th post biggrin.gif woooo

I am definately painting mine wink.gif I have taken off the rubber ring for now - it is not really glued on, but it has some grooves in it that fastens it. I am going to get some paint intended for rubber and then hand paint that single piece. I've also taken off the rubber/plastic bits on the feet, but these are just gonna be glued back on once I'm done, so no huge issues there smile.gif

I am keeping the locking mechanism though.. Just for fun tongue.gif No apparent reason for it (except bringing it to LANs so I can lock it up!) tongue.gif

Right now everything is disassembeled.. All plastic bits are taken off and all rivets have been removed in order to use custom ones from MDPC-X biggrin.gif
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