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[Build Log] The Acrylic Dragon - Page 3

post #21 of 224
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Part 3. Delidding.




The vice and the chip.


IHS + chip cleaning


Apply CL Ultra + close up of the VRMs witch is covered with MX-4 to protect them from the CLU
I DID clean up that extra CLU on the PCB and between VRMs and die, but forgot to take new pic smile.gif


IBT 20 runs before / after delidding
Before: 84, 83, 82, 78 (Ambiant 27C)
After: 64, 63, 62, 62 (Ambiant 26C)


Prime95 Blend Torture Test 1 hour run before / after delidding
Before: 75 , 75, 72, 68 (Ambiant 27C)
After: 61, 62, 60, 58 (Ambiant 26C)

Temp drops taken from IBT: 84-64-(1degree ambient) : ~19C


Thoughts:
I ran out of MX-4 -_- so I might not have enough between IHS->Cooler block.. but seams "OK" at the moment (also, I tend to use a bit too much anyways smile.gif so this might be the right amount, lol)
Oh yea.. The Hammer on pic nr 2 is NOT the one I used ;D I put it next to vice for kicks n' giggles, hehe.
Edited by GaMbi2004 - 8/16/14 at 4:29pm
 
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post #22 of 224
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It has been a while.. the system is running smoothly! low noise, great power, and awesome temps..

awesome temps.... hmm

Well I am stuck on 4.4ghz1.2v 24/7 usage, gaming, folding and movies at around 60-65 degrees (70-75 spikes at the middle of the day)
I would like to see how high my delidded chip can go, but I havent bothered because of temps.. 1.25v I get 80-85 degrees after a few hours and still not 4.5 stable frown.gif
So I am thinking of making an external solution I can use when needed.. hehe I will probably be using it most of the time tongue.gif

Here is "my" idea:
Thanks to:kpoeticg, spaniardunited and vaporizer for a good brainstorm!

I will be using QDC's(Quick Disconnects) for this project. they sound awesome!

QDC directly in the res and its feeding tube, and tubes coming from the pad
the pad tubes will then be pushed inside the case (somehow) so the tubes inside the case doesn't have to be too long.



Connections:
Yellow and red obviously connect together when the pad is not used, and system will be cooled "only" by the 120 + 240 (this might change.. need help on that*)
yelow-blue and red-green when I wanna use the pad. should give a noisless system at great temps. and great setup for getting on with my OC project / folding

The pad is probably gonna have external PSU for the fans.. I have no ideas about that yet.
---

I'm also planing to redo my top window for a bigger one (using CMs window top at the moment) + windows in the side panels
the "pad" idea will work great with this as well.. right now, my box is flat on the ground frown.gif the extra height from the pad will give a better view ^^

Comments, tweaks and ideas are more then welcome!
 
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post #23 of 224
Thread Starter 
Part 4. Window mod.


Here we go again.. just ordered:

1 x Phobya Xtreme NOVA 1080
1 x Phobya Nova fan grill 4x180mm - black
1 x Phobya G-Silent 18 PWM 900rpm Slim 4-pack - black
1 x Phobya Balancer 150 - black
1 x Y-Cable 3Pin Molex to 4x 3Pin Molex 60cm - black
1 x Koolance Quick Disconnect G1/4" - Female
1 x Koolance Quick Disconnect 19/13mm (ID 1/2" OD 3/4") - Female
2 x Koolance Quick Disconnect 19/13mm (ID 1/2" OD 3/4") - Male
1 x Plexiglas - 500x500mm - clear
3 x XSPC High Flex - 19/12,7mm - black

should be more or less everything I need for this project.. now I need to make brackets / stand for the radiator and find out how I'm gonna get the tubes inside the cabinet.

This is gonna be fun ^^
Edited by GaMbi2004 - 1/31/14 at 8:14pm
 
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post #24 of 224
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Al right.. I'm still waiting for the last part of of my package, but my window mod is done!

Let me give you the tour! ^_^

I did all the metal cutting with Dremel.
Took some time, but results speaks for it self.

The red circles: 2x diamond cutting wheel and a container with 50 normal cutting wheels.
As I was warned a few times, the normal cutting wheel was used up after 10-20 cm.. I did one side panel with normal cutting wheel. I think I used / destroyed about 10 of them
Then I changed to a diamond wheel and did the other side panel + top panel, only using that! I was really impressed about its durability! it DID cut a bit slower than the normal wheels, but held a lot better witch might have saved me some time if not for a friend of mine, constantly replacing used / broken wheels so I had a fresh one ready at all times.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sascha1102 View Post

Also, since you bought the accessory pack and don't know specific pricing's, just keep in mind those diamond cutoff wheels are $10-20 USD per ONE wheel

BTW, killer job!. Those look real good =)
The accessory pack cost me 17-18 dollars, and yea.. I noticed that a single wheel would cost almost as much as the entire set (that includes two wheels ^^) what a great deal!

Preparing for the cutting



Got the corners pretty even, using my dremel (what a great tool)

I checked with my uchannel, all scratches are covered ^^ no need to apply paint or anything


This was the only scratch I was really worried about.. but pheew! the uchannel covered it by less than 0.5mm ^^


Pretty good first time use of Dremel / first time case cutting, if I may say so myself ^_^

Then I removed the interlocks on the side panels as mentioned by sascha1102

Look at the two red circles..
One thing tough,
If I could do it over again, I would probably cut out a bite of the inner frame, rather than the 2 locks..
Same outcome, none of the methods would be visible, and I rather not cut things off of my newly improved side panel smile.gif

Also, the sascha method requires a little force to get the side panels on and off..
by cutting the frame instead, the window would slight on as normal and no need to cut the interlocks.
Hope this was understandable -_- a bit hard to explain.


I used the holes to draw a template on a piece of cardboard and added the thickness of the U channel~, drew them up on my masked 500x500x3mm plexi GS (as recommended by sascha1102, cheers !) Its a really good product compared to the one CM is using in their windowed top!!
and as sascha also said, when using a jigsaw for plexi, use a blade that is ment to be used for plexi! a normal blade will burn it frown.gif luckily it was just a practice piece thumb.gif


The cut out sections and gluing in the windows.
I know that this is not the "Normal" way of doing window modding, but my uchannel didn't allow me to use double sided tape, and I couldn't be bothered to buy new channels.
It is made of a hard material. more plastic than rubber, so it does not give 1mm when compressed, and it stands 2.2mm out from the panel, so double sided tape just wouldn't work here.
So I ended up gluing the windows straight to the uchannel smile.gif

I applied a small dot after each corner and 5-7 cm spacing on the long stretches.
It needs to be really small dots, and it is best to apply the dot a little to the side, away from the window. That way, the glue wont travel onto the visible glass.
put down the plexi, making sure not to move it, so I wouldn't smear the glue more then necessary.







And here is the finished product!!
All washed and polished with hot water and some mild soap and a towel.
I like the outcome, I like it a lot!








I cut out my honeycomb and changed the CM logo with a MSI batch that matches my mobo.


The pattern left by the honeycomb is not this visible in real life, so doubt I will do anymore to it smile.gif
The MSI batch has a really nice red, too bad my cam doesn't capture that vary well.

The whole thing took me 2 days~ and cost me 35 dollars including shipment. + another 100 for the dremel and the accessory kit, but I don't count that since I always wanted one and i'm gonna use it in the future as well.. soo ~

To end this post, here is a few effect shots smile.gif

Edited by GaMbi2004 - 8/16/14 at 4:35pm
 
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post #25 of 224
Amazing build! That window mod is fantastic. How are temps on your 680 with that waterblock?
 
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post #26 of 224
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YEY! a comment ^^ Cheers! It has been a while tongue.gif

temps are listed... wait? I never posted temps for my new GPU ? :S thats not like me ;D thx for bringing it to my attention ^^

While CPU is 55-60 (65 peak) in 2 hours+ gaming session, my GPU (OCed by 140mhz core, 500mhz mem) keeps it cool and never exceeds 55C
(Games: MW3, AC3, D3 (LoL) and Metro..

Im pretty satisfied with the outcome of the window mod as well! But as you can see here: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
When I did the W/C loop, I didnt know the design of my new mobo.. so I went with blue tubes.. turned out it would be a red and black mobo ^^
So I ordered new black tubing (I heard that most red tubing will appear pink)

Tubes was covering up the GPU block frown.gif
So I redid the tube routing for a cleaner look, and boy did it help! Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Stay tuned!
I will post better pics tomorrow!

Still to come:
I'm preparing my Phobya 1080 radiator as we speak ^^ almost done! I did some cool upgrades to the setup, such as adding 3pin connector from my fan controller to the back of the case to power the 4x180 fans.
Water temp display embedded in the frame of my case table (witch will house the 1080 as well) and jimmy rigged the display to be powered by USB instead of 4 pin molex (5V).

I'm probably gonna order red fittings instead of the blues. or what do you guys think? should I keep blue? or maybe a 3rd color?
Edited by GaMbi2004 - 8/20/13 at 4:22pm
 
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post #27 of 224
Those sound like good temperatures to have. I'll now know if I did something horribly wrong with my build if I get anything higher than that haha. The Phobya 1080 radiator setup sounds incredible, can't wait to see how it comes together! For the fittings, I personally would pick colors that match no matter what color your rig has, like silver/chrome, black, or even white fittings. Those colors end up being in most rigs one way or another, so you can match the color of the mobo with lights, tubing, fluid dye, etc and not have to worry about getting new fittings each time.
 
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post #28 of 224
Regarding the fittings, I think that blue looks really well with the black tubing. Even with the board being mostly red/black I think it looks nice, makes the connections stand out. Plus when you have the board on you have those blue leds (think they are from the board) which match it to. Have you thought buying the Corsair Dominator platinum light upgrade kit for your ram? Think they have white, blue and red as colors. Haven't had much good to say when I bought Corsair memory, but those sticks looks really nice.

Mmmm external 1080 thumb.gif

Good work on that window, especially the side one. Don't see windows with shapes like that often.
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post #29 of 224
Thread Starter 
Part 5. 1080 Radiator.


Incoming!



I had some green stuff on the inside of my res, so I decided to take everything apart for cleaning since I had new tubes etc coming in the mail.
Not a pretty sight, but I guess it could be worse..
I suspect it is a reaction to too much adjective in the water (about 50% too much, lol)
It took me 20-30 flushes with hot water to get the radiator clean -_-
Rinsed with distilled water after smile.gif

Just a reminder of what it looked like before smile.gif


and after ^^

Much cleaner look this way! and my flow has improved drastically!
Im swapping the blue fittings with red ones, they are in the mail together with a RGB light kit and a few silvercoils ^^


My awesome QDCs ^^ they work SO well! not a single drop when disconnecting! and doesn't add flow restriction what so ever.
And my new res.




And here is the beast! The Phobya 1080 with 4x180mm phobya 900rpm fans!


Cutting the hole for the water temp sensor display, it didnt turn out that great on this side.. so redid it on the other but forgot to take pics -_-


When I tested if the hole was big enough (it wasn't), I had to pull it out again, and this was the result -_- what a mess!
I posted this pic on the forums and after a few hours I got this reply:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackGambit View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Never worked on one of these in particular but I've dissected a couple of TI-83's in my day... Getting it all lined back up correctly is going to be a bit of a bear. but my assumption would be that it should go together as follows from front to back:

Digital screen (that grey looking piece of glass, oriented so the clear looking part is at the top facing the inside of the assembly)
Light defuser (that semi transparent piece)
Back Light (the LED's)
White Paper
Spacer (that open black rectangle)

With those all together you should have a thin bar of space across the top. The smaller rectangular white piece (if its what it looks like it should look a bit like foam on the inside) should go there...it'll have small conductive wires inside that will physically connect the digital screen at the seemingly clear part of the screen to the PCB. If you can get everything lined up perfectly and fit snugly back together, you should be in business...but depending on how many connections the screen physically has, it may be next to impossible to get it all lined back up.

Again this is just my guess from experience playing with this type of screen. Hope it works! Let me know. smile.gif
I was really impressed! he got it right down to the last detail!
so thought it was only fair to +rep and a mentioning in my log ^^


Fitting my PC table with the radiator support.


My backplate.. not that nice yet.. considering cutting the whole thing out and making a solid plate with the holes I need.. not sure about that one yet (it is the backside after all)



Here is some final pics.. the day grew old.. so will probably update for some better tomorrow.


Edited by GaMbi2004 - 2/8/14 at 10:27am
 
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post #30 of 224
Thread Starter 
Info on the 1080 rad upgrade:


It is hard to write a conclution to that smile.gif temps are MUCH more stable now.. but comparing to old system, temp drop is 5-10 degrees
This is only a 2 hour test (and a 1 hour) so gaming sessions longer then that, might see even better results compared to old system, since my new system keeps same temps no matter how long it is under load (it seams) where as the old system would keep rising..

Anyways! Since my cooling is now a tat better, I decided to move on with my overclocking,
I got stuck on 4.4ghz with the old system, and im now at 4.7 stable (100% I hope)


I tried to move up to 4.8, but it wasnt stable with 1.43V, so I kinda left it there..
100mhz just isn't worth the 10C+ and 0.1V vcore.. smile.gif

Coming up:
New fittings in red
90 degree fitting for res
Silver coils
and RGB light kit ^^

I am open for other suggestions tongue.gif
 
My Old Machine
(8 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Haswell i5 4670K @ 4.6GHz MSI Z87-GD65 Gamer EVGA GTX780 SC ACX + XSPC Razor Corsair Dominator 2 x 8 GB 1866 MHz CL9 1.5V 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 830 Series 120 GB Samsung 840Pro Series 256 GB Custom Loop (See Build Log) Win7 Ultimate 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung Syncmaster P2350 Logitech G710+ Corsair AX760 CoolerMaster HAF XB 
MouseMouse Pad
Logitech G5 Func 1030XL 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 Core 2 Quad 65nm MSI P35 Platinum XFX GTX275 Core Edition OcZ Dual ch PC6400 4GB kit 
Hard DriveOSPower
1TB Sata 2 Windows 7, Ultimate - 64 bit TT Toughpower 750W 
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My Old Machine
(8 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Haswell i5 4670K @ 4.6GHz MSI Z87-GD65 Gamer EVGA GTX780 SC ACX + XSPC Razor Corsair Dominator 2 x 8 GB 1866 MHz CL9 1.5V 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 830 Series 120 GB Samsung 840Pro Series 256 GB Custom Loop (See Build Log) Win7 Ultimate 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung Syncmaster P2350 Logitech G710+ Corsair AX760 CoolerMaster HAF XB 
MouseMouse Pad
Logitech G5 Func 1030XL 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Q6600 Core 2 Quad 65nm MSI P35 Platinum XFX GTX275 Core Edition OcZ Dual ch PC6400 4GB kit 
Hard DriveOSPower
1TB Sata 2 Windows 7, Ultimate - 64 bit TT Toughpower 750W 
  hide details  
Reply
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