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[Build Log] The Acrylic Dragon - Page 8

post #71 of 224
Thread Starter 
Hmm.. I think the nickel problem you are referring to is outdated.. I read about this, and it was a major fault from the manufacturers.. it has since been resolved and the nickel plating now acts as it should.

I personally still try to stay away from nickel due to these reports.. but many ppl have told me that it is not relevant anymore
 
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post #72 of 224

Not true at all. Follow the WC Club Thread. It happens still on new blocks. It's always because of poor plating. But the plating is Nickel over Copper that's causing the reaction.

 

You're thinking of when EK used (Electrode instead of Electroless Plating?????)

 

But it still happens from time to time. Not as common now but it's still a gamble

    
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post #73 of 224
Thread Starter 
"Not true at all"
Well, it would still be true then.. the corrosion doesn't occur due to nickel but rather a bad nickel plating.
or ALL setups with nickel plating and copper would corrode, witch they dont.

Brass and copper is also .05 but you dont see them reacting ether..

the only point I can take from this is that there IS a risk with brass/copper -> silver. but it is small! (unless the silver has direct contact with the other metals) and I will keep an eye out for it smile.gif

Another thing to consider is the type of water used.. cheap distilled water is actually better vs corrosion compared with some ultra pure distilled.. this ultra pure have had all metals and minerals taken out of it, and there for, the water is metal starved and will try harder to pull out particles from the different blocks and radiators.
That means that copper->silver would react harder with metal starved water vs distilled water.

I would guess that the nickel plated problem is the direct contact between copper and nickel. the tiniest crack between them would curse corrosion.
 
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post #74 of 224
Quote:
Originally Posted by GaMbi2004 View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Hmm.. I think the nickel problem you are referring to is outdated.. I read about this, and it was a major fault from the manufacturers.. it has since been resolved and the nickel plating now acts as it should.

I personally still try to stay away from nickel due to these reports.
. but many ppl have told me that it is not relevant anymore

^^ = Not true at all.

 

It's still relevant. And still happens with brand new blocks. It was ALWAYS because of bad plating. But the only way to avoid that is to have it professionally plated yourself. EK's old method of plating made it alot more likely to happen. But i've seen blocks from most companies in the past month or so with corrosion

 

Ultra Pure is just distilled. Some countries like the USA you can buy distilled at the grocery store for a dollar, some countries like the UK you can't. That's why WC sites sell distilled. The reason to use distilled is because all of the minerals and metals are taken out of it. That's all stuff you don't want in your loop. All water will become conductive after being in a loop for long enough which is why you always need to flush from time to time.

 

Mixing metals in your loop is definitely a personal choice and a matter of opinion. Plenty of people mix Nickel and Copper and never have a single issue. But some people do have their loop corroded for taking the risk

 

Edit: CVS Brand distilled is the same exact process as the most expensive distilled you can find on a WC site. It's just wayy more readily available in the USA than in some other places.


Edited by kpoeticg - 1/31/14 at 5:02pm
    
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post #75 of 224
Thread Starter 
not true tongue.gif
destilled has NOT all irons taken out of it.. de ionized water has.. ultra pure is sort of a blend.. distilled water but through a lot of filters to take everything out of it, witch actually makes the system more prone to corrosion (or so I read)
you can get destilled water from simply boiling normal tap water and collect the vapor, witch doesnt remove much more than living bacteria and some heavy minerals..
distilled,
deminiralized,
deionized
there is a big difference smile.gif

". but many ppl have told me that it is not relevant anymore"
yea ok ;D not "many" but a few.. we cant all know everything, can we wink.gif

*Edit
BTW.. do you know why they plate them? just for looks?
Edited by GaMbi2004 - 1/31/14 at 5:24pm
 
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post #76 of 224

LOL, i wasn't saying that many people haven't told you that. I was saying that what they told you wasn't true :p

 

If it's not "Just" for looks, it's "Mostly" for looks. Not sure about the heat dissipation of Nickel vs Copper. People buy Nickel because of the looks though. Definitely looks more sek-see

 

I've always read that deionized made no difference vs distilled in a loop. And all that stuff i just said was pretty much quoted from Mayhem himself. Mayhem always tells people that there's no difference and the only reason he started selling his Ultra Pure was because it's hard to get distilled in the UK. Sounds like you know what you're talking about though so i believe you. Either way, CVS is my Distilled Supplier :D

    
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post #77 of 224
Thread Starter 
Link
Found this to back me ;D has some good links and quotes if you wanna read up on the subject..
my main objective here is to point out that the "ultra pure" waters out there isnt better than cheap distilled.. it just costs more due to its extreme filtering.
I bet the companies (not only talking mayhems) only use this to be able to slap on "ultra pure" and "non-conductive" on their labels tongue.gif
and also the fact that the ion starved water will pull ions from the metals in the loop to compensate, will turn the "ultra pure" "non-conductive" into "not so pure" and over time will become just as conductive as distilled or even tap water.

anyways! copper/brass/nickel (maybe except a few unlucky nickel platings) is ok and wont corrode enough for us to spot.. silver is on the edge of being bad, when together with the other metals.
I will post pics when I get a chance to get in there wink.gif Im actually pretty excited to see how it looks after this discussion tongue.gif hoping its as clean as the day I filled water for the first time ^^
 
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post #78 of 224

Don't ever risk your hardware based off a 1 1/2 page thread from 2 years ago on OCN. There's alot of false info to be had on OCN in tiny little threads like that. Not saying whether that info's reliable or not, but there's tons of unreliable info floating around here. There's only a few people that i'd take their research as absolute facts. Mayhem with dyes and coolants; Martin, IT DIVA, Bundy, Stren, BNEG in WC components; IT DIVA in anything electronics related.

 

Also remember, no matter what you choose for coolant or water it WILL become conductive in a loop after time. There's nothing you can do about this except flush your system periodically.

 

Copper/Brass/Nickel doesn't matter "Aside from bad plating" is absolutely correct. And bad plating on one block will not only give noticeable corrosion, it will corrode every single block and radiator in your loop. That's the problem

At this point, everybody's plating METHOD's are correct. But there isn't a company in the world that has 100% success with every last piece they manufacture. Take my 290x for instance. If that 290x was actually a bad plating job, my entire loop could be destroyed by the time i notice. And loops become expensive quickly.

 

It's not something that you should "expect" to happen. Just like you shouldn't "expect" to receive a bad CPU/Mobo/GPU, but it happens

    
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post #79 of 224
Thread Starter 
It was just a page I found with the same info that I found back then.. there are maaany of them.
and physics doenst change wink.gif if it was true back then, it will be true forever. unless the change the meaning of "deionized water" or something..
If I linked to an isaac newton article about gravity, would you doubt gravity just becaurse the article was 300 years old? biggrin.gif

I dont feel like im risking my setup. Silver has been used in MANY many builds without problems. All the silver related horror stories iw read have always had a bad nickel plating, aluminium in the loop or silver in direct contact with another metal.
I have none of those potential problems. but yea, only time will tell.

BUT yes, I will have to agree that silver is a more risky solution vs premix mayhem. So fare it is looking good and doesnt get any cheaper.
 
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post #80 of 224

Lol i was just referring to forums =)

 

Physics is definitely physics. Well, physics has alot of unproven theories that change over the years LOLLLLLLLLL but i don't wanna derail your build log more than i already have :D

Obviously you learned what you know based on alot more than that thread alone. That's all i was saying :thumb:

 

Considering i only use CVS Distilled, i definitely wasn't making an argument FOR DI. I do believe you in what your saying about DI vs Distilled

 

 

Edit:

Quote:
Originally Posted by GaMbi2004 View Post
If I linked to an isaac newton article about gravity, would you doubt gravity just becaurse the article was 300 years old? biggrin.gif

 

I'm gonna be nice and only comment about the earth being flat and the sun revolving around the earth.


Edited by kpoeticg - 1/31/14 at 6:24pm
    
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4930k Rampage IV Black Edition w/EK Clean CSQ Block PowerColor 290x BF4 (2 More Coming) G Skill Trident X 
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Silverstone Slotload Bluray Burner EK Supremacy Clean CSQ Alphacool XT45 360 XSPC EX360 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool ST30 240 3 x Phobya NB E-Loops (1600RPM) Alphacool UT60 120 (White Edition) 7 x Gentle Typhoon AP-00 (2150) 
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3 x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 6 x Phobya G1/4 Inline Temp Sensor Coupler (2 P... Aquacomputer G1/4 High Flow Meter Swiftech MCP35x 
CoolingOSPowerCase
XSPC Photon 170 Reservoir Windows 7 + Linux Antec HCP-1300 Platinum CoolerMaster HAF XB (Modded) 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Silverstone FP58 Thermaltake Max 5 Duo Phobya 6 x 16mm Vandal Switch Plate  6 x 16mm Vandal Switches (ModSmart & Lamptron) 
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LC Telios Red/Black Fusion, White, & Gray More To Come... 
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