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Which parts to choose for a system (multiuser, multitask, with more RAM) ? - Page 2

post #11 of 27
Thread Starter 
Are these parts OK for the budget PC config option for around 2000Lt = 500GBP (i.e. option 2)?

  • SH-224BB / BEBE: Internal DRW Samsung SH-224BB, SATA, bulk bar, black
  • RC-342-KKN1-GP PC casing without PSU Cooler Master Elite 342 mATX black
  • CP-9020050-EU: PSU Corsair VS 550W ATX 80 Plus Very quiet 120mm fan
  • TBW-107UB: TRENDNET Micro Bluetooth USB ADAPT. 10M
  • TL-WN881ND: TP-Link TL-WN881ND 300Mbps Wireless N PCI Express
  • Network Adapter

(In this case I want them to meet the green-colored requirements mentioned in the original post within this 2000Lt = 500GBP budget option.)

Or should I change these to some other ones?
post #12 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by domino-loto View Post

Are these parts OK for the budget PC config option for around 2000Lt = 500GBP (i.e. option 2)?

  • SH-224BB / BEBE: Internal DRW Samsung SH-224BB, SATA, bulk bar, black
  • RC-342-KKN1-GP PC casing without PSU Cooler Master Elite 342 mATX black
  • CP-9020050-EU: PSU Corsair VS 550W ATX 80 Plus Very quiet 120mm fan
  • TBW-107UB: TRENDNET Micro Bluetooth USB ADAPT. 10M
  • TL-WN881ND: TP-Link TL-WN881ND 300Mbps Wireless N PCI Express
  • Network Adapter

(In this case I want them to meet the green-colored requirements mentioned in the original post within this 2000Lt = 500GBP budget option.)

Or should I change these to some other ones?

Yep, those all look great to me. Just remember that with the Cooler Master mATX case, you'll need an mATX motherboard to fit. I think those would all work well for you, assuming it fits into your budget.
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post #13 of 27
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys for the comments. I got this list at the moment with 16GB of RAM (with my intention to expand it to 32GB later on when RAM prices drop even more, I hope they should?):
  • ? Storage(HDD): WD20EZRX Internal Drive WD Green 2TB SATA3 3.5'' IntelliPower 64MB AFT 304.00Lt ~ 76 GBP
  • ? RAM: CMZ16GX3M2A1600 DDR3 Corsair Vengeance Black 16GB (2X8GB) 1600MHz CL9, XMP1.3 330.00Lt ~ 85 GBP
  • CPU: BX80637I53470 Intel Core i5-3470, Quad Core, 3.20GHz, 6MB, LGA1155, 22nm, 77W, VGA BOX 610.00Lt ~ 153 GBP
  • ? Storage(SSD): VTX4-25SAT3-128 SSD OCZ Vertex 128GB SATA3 4, 550/430MBs, IOPS 90/85K, 120K Max IOPS 402.00Lt ~ 101 GBP
  • ? MOBO: B75 PRO3-M ASRock B75 PRO3-M, B75, DualDDR3-1600, SATA3, SATA2, HDMI, GBLAN, mATX 206.00Lt ~ 51 GBP
  • SH-224BB / BEBE: Internal DRW Samsung SH-224BB, SATA, bulk bar, black 48Lt ~ 12 GBP
  • RC-342-KKN1-GP PC casing without PSU Cooler Master Elite 342 mATX black 83Lt ~ 21 GBP
  • CP-9020050-EU: PSU Corsair VS 550W ATX 80 Plus Very quiet 120mm fan 163Lt ~ 41 GBP
  • TBW-107UB: TRENDNET Micro Bluetooth USB ADAPT. 10M 29Lt ~ 7GBP
  • TL-WN881ND: TP-Link TL-WN881ND 300Mbps Wireless N PCI Express Network Adapter 51Lt ~ 13 GBP

Total: ~ 2226 Lt (~ 557 GBP)
Is this whole list of components worth the money in this situation? Will these components be well compatible with each other and with the Windows Hardware Compatibility List / Windows Hardware Quality Labs certified/tested?

E.g. I see B75 PRO3-M spec. says it's WHQL certified. Is it worth paying attention to such things and picking such quality/certified PC parts if I need maximum stability and compatibility?
[ I've assembled quite a few PCs over like 10 years, but the last two almost identical PCs had some flaws (not sure, but most probably it was Mobo or a combination of Mobo/CPU/RAM or with Samsung HDDs, even different ones) - intermittent harddisk controller errors, which got bad from the very beginning on the first PC, and they got worse during 5 years on the second one (mobo was AMD-based Biostar TA690G AM2). That's why I'm looking for quality and highly compatible hardware parts this time. ]

There are also a few more questions left for me about this config, if it's worth changing HDD, SSD, RAM and Mainboard components for this PC. Here's an opinion of the salesman with some different component options suggested by him:
Quote:
HDD: Hard drive WD20EZRX (304Lt=76GBP) vs WD2002FAEX (495Lt=124GBP) (Green vs Black) differ in that the first is for archiving information, is slower (regarding especially in / out operations) and only has 2 years warranty. Black Series model is much faster and is designed specifically for working; the warranty - even 5 years.
I see these HDDs are also quite different in price. What about speed and reliability?
Regarding speed, I read in forums that if you have an SSD for OS and most of the programs, then Green drive is OK, no need for a Black one; you can also make a partition on Green HDD's outer part (there are faster access speeds) for Apps/Games that don't fit in SSD, am I correct? I think I've read about similar things here. another quote from the forum (Click to show)
"If you only test the first 100-150GB, the access times are far better. If you create a smaller OS/Apps partition first, it should perform quite well. But you wouldn't want to leave it as one huge partition unless the drive was just for storage. With one huge partition your OS and earlier installed apps/games are at the start (edge) of the platter, but once the drive fills up they're all installed towards the end (inside) - not only is that slower, but it also results in lots of seeking back and forth, which takes a good 20+ms on this drive. It won't be a multitasking champ unless you manage your data a bit... keep your OS, Apps, and games as close together as possible, and use a second partition for storage of less active data. (Videos, pictures, documents, etc.)"

On the other hand this 5 vs 2 year warranty and controversial reliability topics on inet about Green vs Black drives brings in quite a lot of confusion. It wouldn't be a problem if the price gap was smaller. But now it's like +63% just for the speed and reliability/warranty of the 'wd blackness' (change from green to black). Hmm :/ Up until now I usually considered just the price per GB for hard drives and was thinking that most of the newest drives (except special HDDs like server ones) are roughly similar. Are these Greens vs Blacks really this different? And would they be both worth the money in my situation (for the tasks intended to be run)?
Quote:
(continued)

SSD: VTX4-25SAT3-128 (Vertex 4) (402Lt=101GBP) vs. ASP900S3-128GM-C (397Lt=99GBP) also differ in efficiency, which will feel in multitasking. Vertex pays is able to make up to 80 thousands of independent operations per second, A-Data - about 40-50. Information copying speed (MB / s) is practically the same.

RAM: CMX16GX3M2A1600C11 vs. "CMZ16GX3M2A1600 DDR3 Corsair Vengeance Black 16GB (2X8GB) 1600MHz CL9, XMP1.3" - The main difference between these is the fact that CMZ16GX3M2A1600 has a lower profile and can be easily fit under the processor cooler of any size (even the biggest ones). Also it's model part no. is missing a "tail" (as in "C9" "C10", etc.), that number greatly affects the model quality and speed. (??)

Motherboard: B75 PRO3-M vs. "P8B75-M: Asus, B75, DualDDR3-1600, SATA3, 5xSATA2, HDMI, GBLAN, mATX" both are similar, of the Intel B75 chipset, but different manufacturers. Somehow no significant differences, but ASRock uses a better sound system (7.1 + support optical output) and looks like (?) it has 1 additional SATA3 connection.

Which ones of these would be the most compatible, stable and worth the money for the tasks intended to be run (see OP) on this PC?
Edited by domino-loto - 2/19/13 at 2:42am
post #14 of 27
Try to answer each of your questions here smile.gif

Hard drive question: The Caviar Black is certainly the superior hard drive and has the higher price to match. You can make do with the Green fine, and the partitioning trick will help, but it isn't a drive that I would personally choose. The best option from Western Digital for a compromise between speed, reliability, and cost is the Blue. WD Blue is known for being reliable, performing faster than the Green, and cost less than the Black. That is my recommendation. Maybe make a post in the hard drive forum section here asking specifically about that. You'll get more knowledgeable opinions there.

SSD question: OCz Vertex 4. There are many other good options out there, but of the ones you listed, I recommend that one.

RAM: I do not recommend either of those. The Vengeance you listed has higher timings (cas latency), and the XMS3 low profile requires higher voltage. This set is standard voltage (1.5 V), 1600MHz, and has 9-9-9-24 timings (cas latency 9). CMZ16GX3M2A1600C9
It is not low profile so it could possibly conflict with certain CPU coolers, but from my experience that is rarely an issue. What is the CPU cooler you want to use?

Motherboard: Both are good options with similar features. Asus has a little better reputation for quality than AsRock. Since you said quality is very important, I'd probably go with the Asus.
Also, the network card that you listed uses a PCIe x1 slot, which the AsRock board does not have. So, if the question is between those two, you need the Asus.


Quality and compatibility considerations: All of these parts will be completely compatible with each other and with Windows. I am sure of that. But, I can't guarantee that every component will work right the first time. Unfortunately, there are just not parts that can be recommended that will certainly be free of defects. You probably won't have problems, but sometimes even when you choose the best parts, the one that gets shipped to you doesn't work and you have to replace it. Within my knowledge, this is a good setup smile.gif If you have any more questions about specific parts, I think it makes sense to post about them individually in their respective forum sections so you can get the best help on it. Good luck!
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post #15 of 27
Thread Starter 
First of all, thank you very much, frogger, for your time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by frogger4 View Post

Try to answer each of your questions here smile.gif

Hard drive question: The Caviar Black is certainly the superior hard drive and has the higher price to match. You can make do with the Green fine, and the partitioning trick will help, but it isn't a drive that I would personally choose. The best option from Western Digital for a compromise between speed, reliability, and cost is the Blue. WD Blue is known for being reliable, performing faster than the Green, and cost less than the Black. That is my recommendation. Maybe make a post in the hard drive forum section here asking specifically about that. You'll get more knowledgeable opinions there.

Unfortunately there is no Blue 2TB model option in the shop I'm choosing from frown.gif I see some other 2TB models though, like Red and AV-GP, here it is: link.
Quote:
SSD question: OCz Vertex 4. There are many other good options out there, but of the ones you listed, I recommend that one.
Do you think this OCZ model is not optimal somehow? I remember you suggested this one. What other options would you suggest for value performance like I need and best compatibility with this Intel-based setup?
Quote:
RAM: I do not recommend either of those. The Vengeance you listed has higher timings (cas latency), and the XMS3 low profile requires higher voltage. This set is standard voltage (1.5 V), 1600MHz, and has 9-9-9-24 timings (cas latency 9). CMZ16GX3M2A1600C9
It is not low profile so it could possibly conflict with certain CPU coolers, but from my experience that is rarely an issue.
Oh. Oops. doh.gif Which RAM would you recommend then?..
Quote:
What is the CPU cooler you want to use?
I'm not sure. I guess stock Intel cooler (from the CPU box package) would be good enough for this? What do you think?
Quote:
Motherboard: Both are good options with similar features. Asus has a little better reputation for quality than AsRock. Since you said quality is very important, I'd probably go with the Asus.
Also, the network card that you listed uses a PCIe x1 slot, which the AsRock board does not have. So, if the question is between those two, you need the Asus.
Thanks for these fine points.
Quote:
Quality and compatibility considerations: All of these parts will be completely compatible with each other and with Windows. I am sure of that. But, I can't guarantee that every component will work right the first time. Unfortunately, there are just not parts that can be recommended that will certainly be free of defects. You probably won't have problems, but sometimes even when you choose the best parts, the one that gets shipped to you doesn't work and you have to replace it. Within my knowledge, this is a good setup smile.gif If you have any more questions about specific parts, I think it makes sense to post about them individually in their respective forum sections so you can get the best help on it. Good luck!
Thank you, yes, I'll probably have to post to other threads about specific parts too.. Just there's so little time, and I was just hoping some of you here on this forum would give me some wider overview of the component compatibility and help me assemble somewhat optimal Intel-based config with the parts that work well together (I'm really nervous about this since my last two builds with weird history and outcome confused.gif ). Therefore I was hypothesizing that e.g. maybe Intel mobo would have the best compatibility with Intel CPU because of the same brand (and thinking that Intel is doing more cross-testing with their own products), and in general maybe some brands work better (than others) when they're grouped, etc. That's why I posted here in Intel General forum... blushsmiley.gif I'm really off-course for quite a few years now, so some general-principle-based / best-practice-based config would be really good for me. I've read that even nowadays manufacturers make parts that don't match standards, or they match the standard at the very margin, therefore when two or more such "marginal" components are put together they may have problems. (Seems like something like this has happened in my previous two builds.)
post #16 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by domino-loto View Post

First of all, thank you very much, frogger, for your time.
Unfortunately there is no Blue 2TB model option in the shop I'm choosing from frown.gif I see some other 2TB models though, like Red and AV-GP, here it is: link.
Ah, I see. This may not be the most helpful, but in that case - Buy the Black if it is in your budget, Green if not. The Green will work very well for your needs regardless. The Red's are specifically designed for network-attached storage systems, so that wouldn't really apply here.
Quote:
Do you think this OCZ model is not optimal somehow? I remember you suggested this one. What other options would you suggest for value performance like I need and best compatibility with this Intel-based setup?
The OCZ Vertex 4 is very good. Although the advertised numbers are not the same, the OCZ Vector has been shown to perform better, although it costs more. Even more expensive is the Samsung 840 Pro, but it is considered the fastest (and one of the best quality) SSD. I originally recommend the Crucial M4 because of its competitive price and known reliability. In all honesty, you will be very satisfied with any of those SSD's!
Quote:
Oh. Oops. doh.gif Which RAM would you recommend then?..
Haha it's ok. The set I linked to in that post, Vengeance 2x8GB 1600MHz CL9
Quote:
I'm not sure. I guess stock Intel cooler (from the CPU box package) would be good enough for this? What do you think?
Yep, that would do just fine for the processor you have! Also, it's convenient because it is small so it doesn't get in the way of other components.
Quote:
Thanks for these fine points.
Thank you, yes, I'll probably have to post to other threads about specific parts too.. Just there's so little time, and I was just hoping some of you here on this forum would give me some wider overview of the component compatibility and help me assemble somewhat optimal Intel-based config with the parts that work well together (I'm really nervous about this since my last two builds with weird history and outcome confused.gif ). Therefore I was hypothesizing that e.g. maybe Intel mobo would have the best compatibility with Intel CPU because of the same brand (and thinking that Intel is doing more cross-testing with their own products), and in general maybe some brands work better (than others) when they're grouped, etc. That's why I posted here in Intel General forum... blushsmiley.gif I'm really off-course for quite a few years now, so some general-principle-based / best-practice-based config would be really good for me. I've read that even nowadays manufacturers make parts that don't match standards, or they match the standard at the very margin, therefore when two or more such "marginal" components are put together they may have problems. (Seems like something like this has happened in my previous two builds.)
I understand your concern. That's why I want to help you get the right stuff thumb.gif
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post #17 of 27
Thread Starter 
I'm not 100% sure about the future usage patterns of this PC, and as we were talking about the hard drives, I've recalled that previously I managed to work with a WinXP system with a single 200GB hard drive (and a few external drives for massive data files). So I thought maybe it's even worth to take a no-HDD route for the beginning with this new PC, and just buy a 128GB or 256GB sized SSD.

E.g.:
  • MOBO: P8B75-M Asus, B75, DualDDR3-1600, SATA3, 5xSATA2, HDMI, GBLAN, mATX 196.00Lt ~ 49 GBP
  • CPU: BX80637I53470 Intel Core i5-3470, Quad Core, 3.20GHz, 6MB, LGA1155, 22nm, 77W, VGA BOX 610.00Lt ~ 153 GBP
  • RAM: CMZ16GX3M2A1600C9 DDR3 Corsair Vengeance Black 16GB (2x8GB) 1600MHz CL9, XMP1.3 330.00Lt ~ 85 GBP
  • Storage(SSD for boot+apps+some data): CT256M4SSD1 SSD Crucial M4 256GB SATA3, Sparta 500/260MBs, 7mm 666.00Lt ~ 167 GBP (there is CT256M4SSD1 and CT256M4SSD2 - do any of these fit?)
  • Storage(HDD or SSD for even more data): I may add it later on if/when I see that I really need it
  • SH-224BB / BEBE: Internal DRW Samsung SH-224BB, SATA, bulk bar, black 48Lt ~ 12 GBP
  • RC-342-KKN1-GP PC casing without PSU Cooler Master Elite 342 mATX black 83Lt ~ 21 GBP
  • CP-9020050-EU: PSU Corsair VS 550W ATX 80 Plus Very quiet 120mm fan 163Lt ~ 41 GBP
  • TBW-107UB: TRENDNET Micro Bluetooth USB ADAPT. 10M 29Lt ~ 7GBP
  • TL-WN881ND: TP-Link TL-WN881ND 300Mbps Wireless N PCI Express Network Adapter 51Lt ~ 13 GBP

What do you think of this combination?

And.. If I decide to go directly for 32GB RAM now (more RAM just to avoid swapping and maybe even make a RAMdisk for better performance of some apps) - then, is it better to get 2 packs of "2x8GB" (314Lt) or a single pack of "4x8GB" (677Lt)?
I.e. 2x CMZ16GX3M2A1600C9 or 1x CMZ32GX3M4A1600C9 ?

Oh, by the way, maybe you know an answer to this question about multiple monitors and integrated graphics on this Asus mobo too?..

Thanks!
Edited by domino-loto - 2/20/13 at 6:09pm
post #18 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by domino-loto View Post

I'm not 100% sure about the future usage patterns of this PC, and as we were talking about the hard drives, I've recalled that previously I managed to work with a WinXP system with a single 200GB hard drive (and a few external drives for massive data files). So I thought maybe it's even worth to take a no-HDD route for the beginning with this new PC, and just buy a 128GB or 256GB sized SSD.
...
RAM: CMZ16GX3M2A1600C9 DDR3 Corsair Vengeance Black 16GB (2x8GB) 1600MHz CL9, XMP1.3 330.00Lt ~ 85 GBP
Storage(SSD for boot+apps+some data): CT256M4SSD1 SSD Crucial M4 256GB SATA3, Sparta 500/260MBs, 7mm 666.00Lt ~ 167 GBP (there is CT256M4SSD1 and CT256M4SSD2 - do any of these fit?)
Storage(HDD or SSD for even more data): I may add it later on if/when I see that I really need it
...

And.. If I decide to go directly for 32GB RAM now (more RAM just to avoid swapping and maybe even make a RAMdisk for better performance of some apps) - then, is it better to get 2 packs of "2x8GB" (314Lt) or a single pack of "4x8GB" (677Lt)?
I.e. 2x CMZ16GX3M2A1600C9 or 1x CMZ32GX3M4A1600C9 ?

...

That's an interesting observation that 2 sets of 2x8GB is cheaper than 1 set of 4x8GB of the same ram. Officially, you don't want to put two different sets of ram together, even if they are supposed to be the same. Usually it isn't a problem at all, but since you are going for compatibility here, you probably do want the one set of 4x8GB. Not sure if this is an issue for you, but I wanted to mention that Windows 7 Home 64-bit only supports up to 16GB of RAM (but Win 7 Pro supports more).

Your call on whether you want to use an SSD + HDD or just the SSD. I will say you go through 128GB very quickly if that is all the storage you have.
The difference between those two SSD models is the thickness, 7mm vs 9.5mm. Otherwise they are exactly the same, but might be a different price. In a desktop computer, it shouldn't make any difference at all.
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Or MSI GeForce 210 4 x 1GB Corsair XMS 500MHz OCz Agility 2 LITE-ON DVD 
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Antec Kuhler 920 Win 7 Home Premium OEM Antec High Current Pro NZXT Phantom 
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
i5-3360M @2.8-3.5GHz nVidia GT 650M @1GHz 2x4GB G.Skill 1600MHz Crucial M4 SSD 128GB 
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Ubuntu 12.04 11.6in, 1366x768 Clevo W110ER 
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Or MSI GeForce 210 4 x 1GB Corsair XMS 500MHz OCz Agility 2 LITE-ON DVD 
CoolingOSPowerCase
Antec Kuhler 920 Win 7 Home Premium OEM Antec High Current Pro NZXT Phantom 
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
i5-3360M @2.8-3.5GHz nVidia GT 650M @1GHz 2x4GB G.Skill 1600MHz Crucial M4 SSD 128GB 
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post #19 of 27
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the support, suggestions and your time!

I have finally ordered the following config for around 3400LT=850GBP:

BX80637I53470: Intel Core i5-3470, Quad Core, 3.20GHz, 6MB, LGA1155, 22nm, 77W, VGA BOX
P8B75-M: Asus B75, DualDDR3-1600, SATA3, 5xSATA2, HDMI, GBLAN, mATX
CT256M4SSD1: Crucial M4 256GB SSD SATA3, Sparta 500/260MBs, 7mm
CMZ32GX3M4A1600C9: DDR3 Corsair Vengeance Black 32GB (4x8GB) 1600MHz CL9, XMP1.3
GV-R777OC-1GD: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7770, 1GB DDR5 (128 Bit), HDMI, DVI, 2xminiDP, BOX
WD2002FAEX: Internal WD Black 2TB 3.5'' SATA3 7200RPM 64MB
SH-224BB/BEBE: Internal DRW Samsung SH-224BB, SATA, bulk bar, Black
RC-342-KKN1-GP PC casing without PSU Cooler Master Elite 342 ATX Black
CP-9020050-EU: PSU Corsair VS 550W ATX 80 PLUS is very quiet 120mm fan
TL-WN881ND: TP-Link TL-WN881ND 300Mbps Wireless N PCI Express Network Adapter
TBW-107UB: TRENDNET Micro Bluetooth USB ADAPT. 10M

Hope all will go better this time.. worriedsmiley.gif One more thing I forgot to mention is I need to have a stable platform system so that I'd need no reinstallation or re-activation of OS/programs which usually happens when some important part (like mobo, CPU, system drive or maybe even RAM+VGA) becomes faulty and needs to be replaced.

Looks like this combination of mobo+CPU+SSD(+RAM+VGA) should be quite reliable?..

Is there any way I could run some component stress- and integration-tests to reveal if any of these platform components are faulty and/or if they miscommunicate, right when I get my box assembled? Maybe there are some offline (i.e. non-Windows) tests? And some more tests for checking the hardware platform under stress and integration with Windows? This time I really badly do want this: Avoid the intermittent component incompatibilities or components intermittently becoming faulty over time (like it has happened to me before) when I already have my software installed and customized, software activations used and bound to the specific hardware parts.

I appreciate any and all help!
Edited by domino-loto - 2/27/13 at 12:28pm
post #20 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by domino-loto View Post

...

Hope all will go better this time.. worriedsmiley.gif One more thing I forgot to mention is I need to have a stable platform system so that I'd need no reinstallation or re-activation of OS/programs which usually happens when some important part (like mobo, CPU, system drive or maybe even RAM+VGA) becomes faulty and needs to be replaced.

...

Is there any way I could run some component stress- and integration-tests to reveal if any of these platform components are faulty and/or if they miscommunicate, right when I get my box assembled? Maybe there are some offline (i.e. non-Windows) tests? And some more tests for checking the hardware platform under stress and integration with Windows?
...

It's always a pain having to reactivate things after changing hardware. At least from what I have done in the past, you'll never have that issue if you replace with the exact same model. For example, say the motherboard turns out to be bad. If you return it and get it replaced with a working one of the exact same model, you won't have to reactivate anything. But, if you switched it out for a different brand then you probably would have that problem.

The one test to run before you even install windows is Memtest86. It's not very user friendly (you have to burn the image to a CD, then boot from the CD), but it is one of the best ways to find out right away if your RAM is good or not.
Livingroom rig
(9 items)
 
Retro!
(16 items)
 
DIY Laptop
(7 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-3570K @4.3GHz ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M Radeon HD 7970 GHz 2x4GB Corsair Vengeance 2133MHz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSPower
Intel 520 SSD 240GB Bluray / DVD combo Win 7 Home 64 Seasonic 550W modular 
Case
NZXT Vulcan 
CPUCPUMotherboardGraphics
Athlon 64 FX-55 Clawhammer Or Athlon 64 X2 4200+ Manchester Asus A8N32 - SLI ATI Radeon X850 XT PE 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveOptical Drive
Or MSI GeForce 210 4 x 1GB Corsair XMS 500MHz OCz Agility 2 LITE-ON DVD 
CoolingOSPowerCase
Antec Kuhler 920 Win 7 Home Premium OEM Antec High Current Pro NZXT Phantom 
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
i5-3360M @2.8-3.5GHz nVidia GT 650M @1GHz 2x4GB G.Skill 1600MHz Crucial M4 SSD 128GB 
OSMonitorCase
Ubuntu 12.04 11.6in, 1366x768 Clevo W110ER 
  hide details  
Reply
Livingroom rig
(9 items)
 
Retro!
(16 items)
 
DIY Laptop
(7 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-3570K @4.3GHz ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M Radeon HD 7970 GHz 2x4GB Corsair Vengeance 2133MHz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSPower
Intel 520 SSD 240GB Bluray / DVD combo Win 7 Home 64 Seasonic 550W modular 
Case
NZXT Vulcan 
CPUCPUMotherboardGraphics
Athlon 64 FX-55 Clawhammer Or Athlon 64 X2 4200+ Manchester Asus A8N32 - SLI ATI Radeon X850 XT PE 
GraphicsRAMHard DriveOptical Drive
Or MSI GeForce 210 4 x 1GB Corsair XMS 500MHz OCz Agility 2 LITE-ON DVD 
CoolingOSPowerCase
Antec Kuhler 920 Win 7 Home Premium OEM Antec High Current Pro NZXT Phantom 
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
i5-3360M @2.8-3.5GHz nVidia GT 650M @1GHz 2x4GB G.Skill 1600MHz Crucial M4 SSD 128GB 
OSMonitorCase
Ubuntu 12.04 11.6in, 1366x768 Clevo W110ER 
  hide details  
Reply
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