Thanks guys for the comments. I got this list at the moment with 16GB of RAM (with my intention to expand it to 32GB later on when RAM prices drop even more, I hope they should?):
- ? Storage(HDD): WD20EZRX Internal Drive WD Green 2TB SATA3 3.5'' IntelliPower 64MB AFT 304.00Lt ~ 76 GBP
- ? RAM: CMZ16GX3M2A1600 DDR3 Corsair Vengeance Black 16GB (2X8GB) 1600MHz CL9, XMP1.3 330.00Lt ~ 85 GBP
- CPU: BX80637I53470 Intel Core i5-3470, Quad Core, 3.20GHz, 6MB, LGA1155, 22nm, 77W, VGA BOX 610.00Lt ~ 153 GBP
- ? Storage(SSD): VTX4-25SAT3-128 SSD OCZ Vertex 128GB SATA3 4, 550/430MBs, IOPS 90/85K, 120K Max IOPS 402.00Lt ~ 101 GBP
- ? MOBO: B75 PRO3-M ASRock B75 PRO3-M, B75, DualDDR3-1600, SATA3, SATA2, HDMI, GBLAN, mATX 206.00Lt ~ 51 GBP
- SH-224BB / BEBE: Internal DRW Samsung SH-224BB, SATA, bulk bar, black 48Lt ~ 12 GBP
- RC-342-KKN1-GP PC casing without PSU Cooler Master Elite 342 mATX black 83Lt ~ 21 GBP
- CP-9020050-EU: PSU Corsair VS 550W ATX 80 Plus Very quiet 120mm fan 163Lt ~ 41 GBP
- TBW-107UB: TRENDNET Micro Bluetooth USB ADAPT. 10M 29Lt ~ 7GBP
- TL-WN881ND: TP-Link TL-WN881ND 300Mbps Wireless N PCI Express Network Adapter 51Lt ~ 13 GBP
Total: ~ 2226 Lt (~ 557 GBP)Is this whole list of components worth the money in this situation? Will these components be well compatible with each other and with the Windows Hardware Compatibility List / Windows Hardware Quality Labs certified/tested?
E.g. I see B75 PRO3-M spec.
says it's WHQL certified. Is it worth paying attention to such things and picking such quality/certified PC parts if I need maximum stability and compatibility?
[ I've assembled quite a few PCs over like 10 years, but the last two almost identical PCs had some flaws (not sure, but most probably it was Mobo or a combination of Mobo/CPU/RAM or with Samsung HDDs, even different ones) - intermittent harddisk controller errors, which got bad from the very beginning on the first PC, and they got worse during 5 years on the second one (mobo was AMD-based Biostar TA690G AM2). That's why I'm looking for quality and highly compatible hardware parts this time. ]
There are also a few more questions left for me about this config, if it's worth changing HDD, SSD, RAM and Mainboard components for this PC. Here's an opinion of the salesman with some different component options suggested by him
HDD: Hard drive WD20EZRX (304Lt=76GBP) vs WD2002FAEX (495Lt=124GBP) (Green vs Black) differ in that the first is for archiving information, is slower (regarding especially in / out operations) and only has 2 years warranty. Black Series model is much faster and is designed specifically for working; the warranty - even 5 years.
I see these HDDs are also quite different in price. What about speed and reliability?
Regarding speed, I read in forums that if you have an SSD for OS and most of the programs, then Green drive is OK, no need for a Black one; you can also make a partition on Green HDD's outer part (there are faster access speeds) for Apps/Games that don't fit in SSD, am I correct? I think I've read about similar things here
another quote from the forum (Click to show)
"If you only test the first 100-150GB, the access times are far better. If you create a smaller OS/Apps partition first, it should perform quite well. But you wouldn't want to leave it as one huge partition unless the drive was just for storage. With one huge partition your OS and earlier installed apps/games are at the start (edge) of the platter, but once the drive fills up they're all installed towards the end (inside) - not only is that slower, but it also results in lots of seeking back and forth, which takes a good 20+ms on this drive. It won't be a multitasking champ unless you manage your data a bit... keep your OS, Apps, and games as close together as possible, and use a second partition for storage of less active data. (Videos, pictures, documents, etc.)"
On the other hand this 5 vs 2 year warranty and controversial reliability topics on inet about Green vs Black drives brings in quite a lot of confusion. It wouldn't be a problem if the price gap was smaller. But now it's like +63% just for the speed and reliability/warranty of the 'wd blackness' (change from green to black). Hmm :/ Up until now I usually considered just the price per GB for hard drives and was thinking that most of the newest drives (except special HDDs like server ones) are roughly similar. Are these Greens vs Blacks really this different? And would they be both worth the money in my situation (for the tasks intended to be run)?
Which ones of these would be the most compatible, stable and worth the money for the tasks intended to be run (see OP) on this PC?Edited by domino-loto - 2/19/13 at 2:42am
SSD: VTX4-25SAT3-128 (Vertex 4) (402Lt=101GBP) vs. ASP900S3-128GM-C (397Lt=99GBP) also differ in efficiency, which will feel in multitasking. Vertex pays is able to make up to 80 thousands of independent operations per second, A-Data - about 40-50. Information copying speed (MB / s) is practically the same.
RAM: CMX16GX3M2A1600C11 vs. "CMZ16GX3M2A1600 DDR3 Corsair Vengeance Black 16GB (2X8GB) 1600MHz CL9, XMP1.3" - The main difference between these is the fact that CMZ16GX3M2A1600 has a lower profile and can be easily fit under the processor cooler of any size (even the biggest ones). Also it's model part no. is missing a "tail" (as in "C9" "C10", etc.), that number greatly affects the model quality and speed. (??)
Motherboard: B75 PRO3-M vs. "P8B75-M: Asus, B75, DualDDR3-1600, SATA3, 5xSATA2, HDMI, GBLAN, mATX" both are similar, of the Intel B75 chipset, but different manufacturers. Somehow no significant differences, but ASRock uses a better sound system (7.1 + support optical output) and looks like (?) it has 1 additional SATA3 connection.